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Showing results for tags 'piece'.
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Does anyone know if the chrome front fender extension piece are interchangable on the MKI sv MKII?
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Harbor freight is having a pretty good sale between now and the end of the month... the following caught my eye: Auto darkening blue flame welding helmet 39.99 2 piece professional automotive HVLP 49.99 1.5 ton aluminum racing jack 69.99
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I looked for this for a while. Haven't tried it yet and orginal poster is no longer around. I had to replace mine awhile back and I made my own from some 1 1/4" ID copper tubing. there are two ways to do it. 1) cut two pieces 1" long, split one longitudinally and slip it over the uncut one then solder the cut 2) cut a piece 1" long and then get a union sleeve, grind off the inside ridge and slip over the cut tubing. Works great, no problems or leaks for a couple years now.
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20 hours to tentative departure (minus time to post this) for 3 week east coast trip and I find a missing piece of plastic and cracked plastic around backrest to trunk connection last night. I've read of this problem somewhere, should have payed closer attention to these threads. Get right to it, looking for any advice next 12 hours for temp fix to get thru trip & NYRally. Materials I've picked up : A pint of 2 part Dominion Plastic repair Rigid Flex Bonder, JB Weld putty stick, PF230 pinch&bond weld primer, 14 gauge sheet metal. Plan is to cut 2 pieces sheet metal, one for the missing piece and a large one to replace the existing metal plate and cover the entire cracked area from the inside. I've worked on small areas prior with the Dominion plastic. Not to sure about the long term affects on plastic using the PF250, so might drop that step. Any suggestions welcome (1st gen one liners:no-no-no:) Off to cut up some sheet metal... Will check back periodically. thanks Max
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As most already know the brakes on the MK1 suck. I found a nice set of forks for a 90-93 on ebay but missed the end of the auction. I sent the seller a pm and hope he gets back to me. Is $100 shipped a decent price? I figure I will get everything piece by piece until I have everything to do the job.
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While changing plugs yesterday, I removed some of these covers. While doing so, I wondered what function they provide other than just being nice & shiny. On both left & right, the front covers are similar. But the back ones are different than the fronts...and different from each other. The back left is 3 pieces, with the top piece having a swoop in it. The back right is 2 pieces..no swooping 3rd piece. Why not? Am I supposed to have 3 pieces on both sides? What's the purpose of the back covers?...why not just a single piece like the front covers? They don't seem to serve any purpose that I can see...unless it's just to keep the plug wires elevated a bit. Any ideas? -
I was in my back yard trying to launch a kite. I threw the kite up in the air, the wind would catch it for a few seconds, then it would come crashing back down to earth. I tried this a few more times with no success. All the while, my wife is watching from the kitchen window, muttering to herself how men need to be told how to do everything. She opens the window and yelled to me, 'You need a piece of tail.' I turned with a confused look on my face and said, 'Make up your mind. Last night, you told me to go fly a kite.
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Don't want to make this another tire thread,,, no need,,,, just want to report that I was riding with a friend yesterday, who rides a Wing,,, not that it matters,,,, but he had his tires changed to Avons,,,,,,,,, from????????????? Metzlers,,,,,,,, and why am I making this post??????? he was surprised that when they showed him the rear tire there was a piece missing. It was time to change the tire, but not super urgent. We do not know the date on the tire, how many miles or how long it's been on the scoot. just so you know
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I've seen a lot of threads on froggtogs, nylon and so forth but i was wondering about one piece vs two piece?
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I had a 2foot by 2foot sheet of stainless steel I laid down on my wood garage floor to put the bike on the center stand for an oil change.While walking to the tool box I bumped into the bike and it moved about 6 inches.To my surprise I can rotate the bike 360 degrees with just one hand on the stainless plate.I took another piece and put under my 84 now I have 2 turntables.Works great.PS....I tried a sheet of aluminum but I guess it is too soft and did not work for me.
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After I saw Ponch's gauge package, I knew I wanted that for my scooter. I wanted mine to be molded or formed into the dash to look sort of factory. Well after I crashed and totaled the scooter last year I figured I had my chance to do this while I was rebuilding the scooter. I settled with the insurance company so that I was able to keep the scooter. Every piece of body plastic was cracked or busted. The front upper fairing, inside dash and lower left fairing were demolished and unrepairable. I bought some parts on e-bay and some parts through the good members here that were willing to sell some extra parts they had. The pieces that I was able to salvage from my scooter, I repaired with Plastex. After I acquired a front upper fairing and dash, I got started on the gauge package. * On the dash, I took a dremel tool and cut from the bottom of the cassette door opening on each side down to and around the cruise switch opening (sorry I didn’t think of taking pictures until I had it all formed together and painted, just use your imagination). * Then I measured the opening to get an idea of how big a piece of ABS plastic I would need to do this. I salvaged a piece big enough from the busted upper front fairing above the headlight opening. * I used the measurements and drew the design I wanted on a piece of 1/8" flat aluminum plate. After I cut it down to size I used a 1 5/8” hole saw and drilled two holes for oil pressure and water temperature gauges. I used a 1 7/8” hole saw for tach. I bought a set of Sunpro mini gauges from Advance Auto and a Drag Specialties tach through H.D. dealer. I used this piece of aluminum for my pattern to mark my piece of ABS. I later used it for a backing plate to strengthen and support the dash gauges. Picture #1 shows drawn outline. * After I had cut my piece of ABS for my gauges, I cut three more pieces 1” x 2 ¼” to use as fillers to cover space between gauge base and where the cruise switch was. After all pieces were test fitted, I used a soldering gun to spot melt the plastic together in a few spots. I then used Plastex to fill and weld all the connecting joints. After the Plastex had hardened, I used sand paper and smoothed the edges and corners. Pictures #2-3 show underside of dash. * Pictures #4-9 show dash after it was painted. * Pictures #10-13 show test fit of gauges. * Pictures #14-16 show finished dash on scooter. As you can see (pic # 15) I would have had enough room to mount the cruise switch above the tach in between the water and oil gauges, but opted to move it down behind key switch in front of gas lid. I also used a 1/8” stereo cable from Radio Shack to extend aux. plug out onto handle bars. I know Ponch was in a bad accident (I have been keeping up with the thread) and is in rehab and has a long way to go. My thoughts and prayers are with him and his family as they deal with this. I wanted to give him credit for his ideas and help that he gave me, as I had contacted him a few times with questions about the gauges and fittings he used. Thanks again, Ponch C.R.
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I ride with the Patriot Guard and bought a flag pole attachment for my Rivco tow hitch. I didn't like the flag pole that was made for it (seemed a little flimsy) so I went out and bought a much sturdier steel one piece pole. The pole is too small for the receptacle. So, I found a piece of PVC that fits the pole perfectly, but it's 2/10ths of an inch too thick to fit in the receptacle. I tried using a piece of sand paper to 'slim' it down, but I can see that's gonna take a LOOOOONG time. So, I'm hoping some of you will have some ideas on how to reduce the girth of this adapter.
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Hello: Does anyone work around thick plastics? I am looking for a piece of 3/4" solid black plastic material 15"X15" for a motorcycle related project. Thanks
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And here I was thinking you were "THE" DQ Ice Cream aficionado and you missed this one. Wait, actually that was probably a good thing. There wouldn't have been any left once you had your "piece of cake"
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Greetings. Have been looking for a Venture trunk for my 1998 Royal Star Tour Classic. Can be found at PinWall Cycles but these clever guys tear them apart and sell them piece by piece $#/$#%#$%%$%####,,,,,So I have started buying things from different sellers on eBay and so far I have bought the Trunk frame and the backrest pillow. If anybody out there in VentureWorld knows of any part for the Venture trunk or a complete trunk that is available then please contact me. Desperately need a trunk so I can make Greta (the boss) comfortable on our trip in the States the coming June. Friendly regards from Iceland (Norway at the moment) Jonas
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I need the pieces that go below the fairing and the chin piece that goes below the radiator. If anyone has these please let me know. Thank you, Shaun
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I just installed the 1.5 inch risers...I notice the rubber piece between the handle bars and the faring don't reach that high...so there's no rubber between the bars and the faring...is it necessary? And if so, where would I find some high density rubber like that to make an extension? Thanks! Mike
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royal pain in the you know what. BUT................one of the first thing I found that was a total inconvenience was loading the cd changer. Wife and I with owning the bar and doing our own music have tons of cd's and I simply like the sound of a good cd. So in all my wisdon I thought the changer would look really goos standing up in the truck. 4 hours later its done and definetly not bragging but I really think it looks good I had an old cd changer laying in the shop that was junk, but as you know some people, namely me, keep everything cause you never know when you will need it. So with that being said the cord was quite long, and conveniently the plug had the same pin design. So I cut enough of it off so I had plenty to add and started in. NOW with that being said I DO NOT recommend anyone trying this unless you like to put yourself through hell like I do. They sell 13 pin extension cables, but for some reason my cable was broke already so I did not have anything to loose. First worked on mounting. I used gutter guard for a mounting base for 2 reasons, its nice and sturdy, and I had it. First remove the piece in the truck where the little storage pouch is, its held with 8 push pins, then I removed the pouch from it leaving me with this. I used the material as a templete. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b6215823d00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ This little storage pouch is just stitched on, utility knife cured that. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b81cb433a00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Had to remove this "bump" from the OEM mounting bracket. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bc3ee433e00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Leaving me with my cut piece of gutter guard and bracket. A Little flat black touched things up. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0a6cf923aa00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Now then these changers have to have a setting changed to go from laying down (horizontal) to standing up (vertical) so it had to come out of the rubber insulator. I had absolutly no choice but cut the rubber, but no worries it look great now. Here is the adjustment that slides from H to V on both sides of changer http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bbd8ac25500000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Mounted the bracket to the gutter guard through the piece I removed that pouch from. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bcb6c43b800000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ When I got done I wound up with this. The INSIDE 4 holes I replaced the push pins with 3/16" aluminum pop rivets for added stability. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b8636035c00000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bbb85c25900000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Connect a few wires. Some are shielded, some have to be isolated. This is why Id recommend buying one. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0bcdc1431600000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ But I have the shielding wrap. a good soldering pencil, and a ton of patience and wound up with this http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0ade9e239400000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Now I have a nice empty side compartment that looks huge with the changer out of there. I put some RTV on the bolt that held the changer in place and threaded it back in just to tighten things up. http://im1.shutterfly.com/media/47a1dc34b3127ccefc0b05c4c24700000030O08AZtmjJo0aOAe3nws/cC/f%3D0/ps%3D50/r%3D0/rx%3D550/ry%3D400/ Now I have the grommet with no wire in the side bag where the changer wire entered it, thats going to be where I install a power outlet since the hole is the perfect size, and the battery is really close..... -
In a brilliant move while uncovering the Venture I snagged the cover and broke the antenna, the one with the black plastic piece in the middle. I broke it off at the top of the black piece. I thought this was the CB antenna. I took it off and went ridding and found that my FM radio reception was very poor. So was this the Radio antenna? I have looked back over a couple of post but still am confussed, I would like to replace both antennas with one is there a post that explains how to do this and is this a complicated process? What is the best antenna to use? Thanks for any help!
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Had a little incident with my bike & need to replace the fairing, maybe both the front cowling and the front panel (or inner piece). The front cowling comes off easy by just removing a bunch of screws, no problem. How about the front panel inside piece? How much of the wiring has to be disconnected to remove that piece? I could run out & take a look but it's late & I'm here so thought I'd ask! Is it just a matter of unscrewing the headlight, tape deck, etc and then lifting it off over all the wiring while still connected? Or does the wiring have to be disconnected one by one and fed thru holes in that piece? Just wondering how big of a job that would be ...of course if I do it, the tape deck will NOT be reinstalled!...I'll be hitting up Ponch for a set of gauges instead!
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I have a discontinued piece of chrome cover that I want to put on ebay but I don't know what it's called to label it correctly. It's the piece that goes in place of the stock horn on the 2nd gen. Kinda upside "L" shaped?
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If the Indians had given the Pilgrims a donkey instead of a turkey, we would all be having a piece of A-$ on Thanksgiving!!....
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ok is it earl who makes the fuse box thats way better then this old piece of crap? i noticed my headlight going off and on tonight.. just got home went to check the fuse. and the darn thing broke off one of them tabs. also some of the others are going to go soon. it is 26 years old something has to give. but in my honest opion. it started out as a piece of junk. im not going to buy another one off fleabay. if someone invented a better one.. so if its here please let me know.. i dont want to cut and splice wires to make the headlight work. i guess i could hook a an inline fuse if i knew what type?
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I wondering if it's worth trying to repair my left hand dashboard piece (piece that radio sits in) or if anyone has one in good shape here. I didn't see any listed. I was wondering if I could back it with some type of aluminum and glue the pies together. But then I would have to add on some type of screw down plates too cause they have cracked off (seems typical place for these to crack over time). I don't know how hard it is to find good plastic anymore. Didn't see any on ebay either. Wood
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Yesterday I decided to get out and replace a hatch port on a dinghy I have listed for sale. It came with just the ring. The screw in center disc was missing. The new port was about a 1/4" larger than the OEM ring. No problem, I have a Roto-Zip... The Zip came with a circle cutter that I've never had the chance to use, but it looked simple enough. The plan of attack was to cut a hole in a piece of plywood and then use it as a guide along with a veining bit to enlarge the hole in the dinghy. Well... let me tell you... that thing sucks. I started with a piece of ply about 4' long, and ended up screwing up the entire piece. But.... I did end up with 5 side stand discs... And I bet you thought this thread wasn't going to be motorcycle related....
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