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Showing results for tags 'pattern'.
Found 13 results
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Last week, I replace a bad coil on my RSV. It was the right rear (number 3) coil. I was talking to a couple of other RSV owners today and they commented that everybody they know who has had to replace a coil it has been the number 3 coil. If you have replace a coil, which one was it that was bad? I'm just wondering if there is a pattern here and if so, why the number 3 is going bad. -
Went for a 5 hour ride today and had the cruise control disengage 3 times after hitting very rough interstate patches. Top two cruise lights were flashing a 2 flash pattern. Had to turn cruise off and back on to get it working. Is this a known problem or something I can correct. Bob Marshall, il
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An article I wandered across today instead of actually working. It stated that the new wing wont be built for at least a year or 2 so they are in a holding pattern over at Honda as well. http://blog.ridermagazine.com/2010/05/12/new-honda-gold-wing-news/ Brian
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Weird rear tire wear
jimmyenglish posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Being a poor person I always buy the cheapest tires. Overall I've had decent success with all of them. This last rear, however, has demonstrated a very strange wear pattern. It is a Shinko Tourmaster. I have about 8k or so on it. I already have a replacement but when checking it the other day I noticed one side of the tire had say slightly less than 1/8' and the other side, about 180 degrees away, was bald. What the hell? I've never seen such a thing! I could only assume it's because it's a cheap, shi tty tire. It's always ridden fine even at sustained high speed. Thought this was a real strange wear pattern and curious if anyone else has experienced this. Cheers! -
Nope....not that rack. You guys, always one tracking it. Well now that you're here anyway I'm looking for a bigger trunk rack. The one that came on the bike is of unknown make or model to me and as I don't get to see any 1st Gens around here so I'm going to throw this out there. Mine is only 12" wide and 9" deep. It is mounted on a set of Z brackets to the truck to raise it high enough to clear the backrest. The pattern I'd like to match for the mounting is 4" X 9 1/4" to use the existing holes and backing supports inside the trunk. If a larger one had longer support legs to give it some height that would work. If a larger rack had short legs or bolted into the frame of the rack as the current one does I could reuse the Z brackets and mount to a 4" X 11 1/4" pattern. I've got a trunk bag I'd like to be able to use but it's a bit wide for my rack. I'd be looking for something about 18" wide and maybe 12" deep but I could get by with 9" or 10" if needed. I've had not much luck on fleaBay for anything that might work so I'd thought I'd ask if anyone had a parts bike with a rack they aren't going to be using that might meet my needs. I'd buy outright or some horse trading for my old rack which is in very good condition. I'm open to any suggestions, advice or offers. Thanks Mike -
Found this tire on FleaBay. Would this be a good choise for my RSV? I sure like the bigger lugs and tread pattern. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-NEW-165R15-TIRES-FRONT-RUNNER-RACING-165-R-15-DRAG_http://i.ebayimg.com/08/!BUdlbp!!Wk~$(KGrHgoOKicEjlLmZ3G2BKNpOwr(r!~~_1.JPG
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What is it that is different between the rear footrests on a MKI & MKII? I think I read somewhere on here that the MKII footrests will not fit on the MKI. Is there a difference in the bolt pattern? Or is there something else obvious that I'm not seeing? Thanks, Bill -
Hey Squid if you are around, a while back I saw a post you made about putting rear back in place. And just can't remember what it was about. I haven't had any trouble yet but when putting it back should you just snug it up and then kind of tighten them down in criss-cross pattern? And how much on these things? Only 14 lb or something like that I think?
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high yesterday was 81 *F. right now it is 70*, feels like 70*. my boss half keeps asking me WHEN is it gonna get cooler? i don't know, but i hope it only lasts a day or two! i kinda like this weather pattern! COME ON DOWN Squidley!Christmas will be here before ya know it! just jt:stickpoke:
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Guday all, Can someone please shed some light on this issue? I put K&N filters, iridium plugs and Barons slash cut pipes on my 2004 RSV. I then had it re-jetted and Dyno'd. Since this work has been done, every now and again (Genrally after about twenty to thirty km's) the red "overheating" lamp comes on. It stays on and then goes out after about fourty seconds. I can't seem to pinpoint any pattern to this apart from the fact that I'm normally going up and down the gearbox. All the "experts" I've talked to say that it's everything from a faulty thermostat to lack of or to much back pressure in the pipes. Can anyone help?
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my 84 venture did not come with original stereo, but i recently bought one but it did not come with the wiring harness to hook up the speakers and power. can someone tell me where to get one or show me what wires do what? the plug coming off the amp has 9 contacts in a 4-1-4 pattern. this radio is from an 83. i have checked the yamaha parts fiche and the radios are the same for both. thanks
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Has anybody put the Yamaha Stratoliner Passing Lamps on their RSV? I used the search function but could not find any information. I would really like to see a photo of them installed. Also how is the beam pattern between the two bubls? I am hopeing to find a dual bulb lamp to fit my RSV, with a driving light pattern and a fog light pattern lamp in one housing. The Stratoliner Passing Lamps look like they might work. -
CUTTING DOWN A WINDSHIELD Cutting lexan is easy if you have patience and a Sabre saw or a Dremel You will also need: 1. Duct tape 2. A fine tooth blade for the Sabre saw or a Dremel with a cutting wheel 3. Big sheet of poster board 4. Fine tipped marker 5. Bastard file 6. Various grades of emery cloth and wet and dry sand paper First, decide how much lower you want the windshield. Cover the windshield with the big piece of poster board, and mark carefully where the lower point of the windshield is. There should be some mounting points, or a bar that goes all the way across the windshield at about handle bar height. Tape the poster board to the windshield or get a friend to hold the poster board while you trace the outline of the windshield, paying close attention to the top curvature. Spread this paper on a level surface, and cut out the pattern you now have of your full size windshield. If you need the windshield lowered 1", take it off the BOTTOM of your pattern or fold the pattern up 1"!! Very important--you are not cutting the windshield as the bottom, but rather you are "lowering" curvature of the windshield so that now your pattern will show the curvature 1" lower. Take the windshield off the bike, lay it down carefully on a blanket or something where the windshield won't get scratched. Put your new shorter pattern on the windshield. Eyeball where the new top will be, and put a layer of duck tape in the rough area of where you will be cutting so the windshield won't crack while cutting. Now tape the pattern down correctly, and trace your new top curve onto the duck tape. I put the windshield on my lap, main curve upward. BE CAREFUL WHILE CUTTING. Start your Sabre saw on one edge, and SLOWLY, work up the line you've traced onto the duck tape (or Dremel if you choose to use that tool instead). Soon you'll have the excess 1" (or whatever) on the floor. Now with the bastard file smooth out the cut you just made. Use your artistic sense to get this part done. Take off the duck tape, and using the file, start "rounding" or beveling the edge. BE CAREFUL!! The file slips, you get a scratch, it's there forever. When you get it roughed in, use a block with emery cloth around it to do the fine work. Finish off with fine emery paper, wet, and eventually you will have a factory edge. Total time s about 2-4 hours, depends mainly how picky you are about making the edges just so. Submitted by Camo
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