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Ok so I have searched for tips to rmove saddlebags, but I have not found any. I need to replace the rear brake pads and I can't figure out what all I need to remove to get the bag off? Any tips or suggestions???? -
Finally managed to change all three sets of brake pads out for EBC FA123HH's, can not believe the difference over the stock Sumitomo pads. One thing I noticed was some slight contamination of the left front pads due to brake fluid leakage, not sure if I managed to drip some fluid out of the bleeder the last time I flushed the brakes or if the piston seals actually leak. Anyway, I was looking at the parts diagram for my '89 VR (http://tinyurl.com/4kefl2) and noticed two part numbers for the caliper seal kit: Ref# 6: 1KT-W0047-00-00 and Ref# 15: 1NL-W0047-00-0, price is within a few $$$. I don't have any idea what the difference between these two kits is, maybe somebody has ran into this problem before? Thanks in advance, Klaus -
Brake Pad Replacement
utadventure posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I replaced tires today on my '86 and need to do brakes next. This is my question. Do you replace the pads with the calipers in place or do you remove them from the mount/rotors? Dave -
Replaced my rear pads tonight and noticed somebody has done some modifying. Bike is a 90 MKII. Rear rotor is a vented disc and not offset. Somebody has added spacers to move the caliper closer to the wheel. Has been functional up to this point but I'm concerned about my braking efficiency. The rotor only measures about 304 mm. The rotor isn't large enough to make full contact with the pads, there is 5/16" of the pad not being used. Included are pics of the worn pads, rotor and caliper spacers. http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/pads.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/rotor.jpg http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x337/steve_roseman/Venture/caliper.jpg
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Jim has been nice enough to give me the part number for the disk brakes on the rear of the trike. In the past most of us started out with Brembo's and they kind of wear fast They say now that they have had better luck with the EBC FA266 HH pads and can be purchased at local motorcycle dealers. I found that they will run from 25 all the way to 36 bucks. (for two) I did some research today and found them at Amazon for $33 a set free shipping. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Dautomotive&field-keywords=EBC+Brakes+FA266+HH Shipped from Power Sports
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I am not one to really complain about service but I really got a kick out of this exchange. I found a place that had two sets of pads for the front and one set for the back EBC Sintered pads. (because that is what I want!) for $86.00 shipped. Having not heard of this place before I decided to shoot a simple email to their customer service (which is what they said to do on their website to ask any question) and ask a simple shipping question. Here is the exchange simplified for reading... I will not post the company name but they claim to be one of the largest suppliers of parts in the country. ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ To: customer service MONDAY Dec 17, 2012 9:52 am Subj: brake pads If I ordered EBC brake pads today, when should they ship? -------------------------------------------------------- To (TDunc) TUESDAY Dec 18, 2012 1:34pm Subj RE: brake pads Could you please provide your order number so I can better assist you? -------------------------------------------------------- To: customer service Dec 18, 2012 1:51 pm Subj RE: brake pads Never Mind.. The original question was MONDAY 12/17 @ 9:52am: "If I ordered ebc brake pads today, when should they ship?" Original order WOULD have benn for $86.00 worth of pads. I was asking for an approximate ship date? See Below for original e-mail. -------------------------------------------------------- TO: (Tdunc) WEDNESDAY Dec 19th 1:29pm subject ...... All orders take 1-4 business days to ship out. If you have any further questions or concerns, feel free to contact me. Thank you --------------------------------------------------------- TO: Customer service @ __________________- Thank you but I have already asked the same question, received an answer, placed an order and received the product on my doorstep in the time it has taken you to answer one simple question. Thank you very much for your time and Thank you tremendously for the laugh you provided by a company that 1) can't answer a simple question and 2) does not care that they made a mistake and never tried to save the business.. Good luck in the future sir. TDunc............... -------------------------------------------------------------------------- It was good for a laugh for me...... Or am I being a scrooge!
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Ordered the R1 calipers for my trike on Saturday, came home yesterday and they were waiting for me on the porch. I thought I was getting the ones with the blue insert (steel pistons), but surprise I got the ones with the gold insert, (alum. pistons). I immediately pulled out the tools and pulled the left caliper off the trike and the R1 slipped right into place. Now I am waiting on the new pads to arrive. The pads on them were still fair, but I decided to go new, dont want to have to work on it twice. Next upgrade will be the SS lines I looked up the price for new ones at BikeBandit and was in shock, the were over $500.00 each, and I got both of them for less than $100.00 shipping included........ :banana:
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Hopefully someone can advise me on this issue. I just installed new oem pads on the rear of my 05 RSTD . I noticed some drag when I pushed the bike back and the rotor is hot after a 2 mile test ride. Did I do something wrong? Will the pads wear in?
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As to replacement brake pads for a 2nd gen. ( 08 ) . I am looking for any comments as to aftermarket brake pads, which brand, is the best quality to buy, in terms of " stopping power " ie: What brand works the best !!! Irregardless of the cost, Is there an agreement here as to the highest quality brake pads ?? :detective:
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I've contemplated installing the EBC HH pads on my laden '90, but have reservations due to the reported high rotor wear. Rotors for my bike are very expensive if one can even find them. Any First Gen owners with long term HH pad installations out there? What is the accumulated mileage with the HH? Notice any significant rotor wear? What kind of riding have you subjected the bike while wearing the HH pads? One probably shouldn't attempt to put a price on safety (good braking), but if after spending $100 for just the pads and then perhaps several hundred more for rotors (or worse, having no ride-able motorcycle because one can't get any replacement rotors) after a couple seasons of back roads, two-up, trailer towing touring, well that is unacceptably expensive. -
I need to get new rear pads for my 08 venture what are the best ones and who or were is the best price? I have sent a couple of emails to cyclebrakes but havent heard back from them as of yet. Thanks
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I pulled apart an 85 1200 donor motor this weekend and found a different looking set of clutch friction plates in it. Anyone seen these before? The friction pads are smaller than a stock set. I don't really think these will be good in a modified motor. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG_3129.jpg -
I'm wondering what kind of brake pads I should get... I mean EBC is great, but incredibly pricy for a whole darn set. Found this: [ame=http://www.amazon.com/1986-1993-Yamaha-Venture-Royale-Kevlar/dp/B007RGQHIO/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1343848229&sr=8-12&keywords=Venture+Royale+Brake+Pads]Amazon.com: 1986-1993 Yamaha XVZ 13 D Venture Royale Kevlar Carbon Front & Rear Brake Pads: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51nJImUwFVL.@@AMEPARAM@@51nJImUwFVL[/ame] Don't know if they're good tho. Ebay also has that set too.
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Hi everyone! My major maintenence project on my 86' is coming along and today I got my R1 calipers. So now my question is which pads? I like the cleanliness of the cermics but is this going to halve the life of my $200+ new rear rotor? In the past I would by pads all willy nilly but since I'm starting with mostly new stuff (R1 calipers, delinked brakes, new rotors, SS lines and E3's) I would like to monitor the wear better and overall just start with the best. We don't ride fast but pull a very heavy trailer. Thanks everyone! -
First of all, if anyone has anything to add, please do. I am a shade tree mechanic. These things are nice to have to do this in hot weather; A garage, a fan, an air conditioner. I am blessed to have these, so I took the time to take some pictures as I did this. Hope it helps someone else. Time frame; 45 minutes to complete. Tools needed; A 4 mm allen head socket or allen wrench. A short 3" extension. A ratchet. A flat screw driver. A pair of needle nose pliers. A 3/4 " wide wood chisel or some tool of this nature to pry with. #1 . Remove the right side hard bag using the ratchet and extension and 4 mm allen head socket. There are 4 allen head bolts that hold this. There is one that is longer than the others and has a chrome spacer between the mount and hard bag. #2 . Remove the plastic cover from the top of the brake caliper with the flat screw driver. It just pops right off. #3 . Locate and remove the small clips that are through the pins in the caliper and brake pads. Rotate them around to face up and carefully pull them right out with the needle nose pliers. #4 . Next remove the two pins with the needle nose pliers, ( twist them as you pull them out). Remove one and then the other being careful of the flat spring type holder thingy. #5 . Remove the flat spring keeper thingy from atop the brake pads. Pay attention as to how it comes off and lay it aside that way. #6 . Using the needle nose pliers, remove the old pads and look closely at the inside (wheel side pad). If it is less than 1/8" replace pads. Some pads are wore more on the rear end of the pad (thinner).You can switch the inside pad to the out side and get 2000 to 3000 more miles out of them if you have 1/8 " left. My bike had 13,800 mile and where less than 1/8 " material left on inside pad, so new pads where installed. Outside pad compared to new> Inside pad compared to new> #7 . If you are replacing the pads, you will need to pry the brake piston back in to allow room for the new pads ( I used - EBC brand FA-123HH brake pads ). I used the 3/4" wood chisel to pry the pistons in because it has a short handle and was wide and easy to get into the area. Per SilverT; Clean the pins before you replace them, they may require a bit of "buffing up" with either emery paper or a buffing wheel on your drill. Clean the " thingy" before you replace it. Coat the pins with brake lubricant before you replace them. Coat the back side of the pads and the outer edges where they will rub against the caliper and other stationary metal parts with brake lubricant. Per RSTDdog; In addition to the lubricating tips (lightly) I am of the "clean the exposed part of the piston before pushing it back in" school of thought. Of course to do this properly you need to take the caliper loose which adds a few steps. Now is also a good time to change that brake fluid. Someone said that it is possible to clean the piston with a Q-tip and some break fluid before pushing back. Also it has been mentioned that a 42 thousand washer be placed between the frame and caliper to line the caliper up to equalize/a-line the inside pad wear. I have not researched this and I am only mentioning here for someone else to search. #8 . Using the needle nose pliers, put the new pads in place with the pin holes up. Being careful to put them in with the wear material toward the rotor. There is no difference in the two pads,they are the same. #9 . Replace one pin through the break pads and into the rotor. Now put the spring type holder thingy in under the one pin. Now the tricky part. Put the second pin through the break pads and through the spring type holder thingy and into the rotor, all at the same. Easy though... #1 0. Now replace the small clips into and through the small holes in the pins as before. I turned the small clips up and to the left and right. Make sure you get these in correctly (half way point). You would not want these coming out. #1 1. Now work the rear brakes and get the pads kinda seated into place. Will feel kinda spongy at first pump or two. I made sure my rear breaks worked and released by pushing bike forward and back a couple times. #1 2. Replace/snap plastic cover back into place. #1 3. Replace the hard bag with the four 4 mm allen head bolts. Remember the long one goes into the rear and side next to wheel and through the chrome spacer. Also make sure the rubber bushings and washers are on the hard bag (bottom and side). Most of the time they will stay in place if you are careful. #1 4. Make notes of your mileage and date in your owners manual and also keep your receipts to proof any warranty issues. Also for a reference/reminder as to when you need to replace again and what type/brand to use. Helpers are good and I had my little boys help. Fuzzy
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I have a question regarding the 1st Gen front brake. My Venture stops fine using bothe the front brake & the linked rear/front pedal but if I try to stop my Venture with JUST the front brake it struggles . I'm not saying stopping from 60 mph but say a 25 mph stop. is this normal? The reason I ask is my CB750 has only 1 front rotor & when I hit that front brake I can easily stop...even if I had no rear brake. My Venture's front pads look ok, as do the rotors. So is this just because of the weight of the Gen 1 that it needs both rotors or do I need new/better pads?
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I had my new rear tire put on. SO I decided that I needed to check the front breaks, well turns out they look brand new...and I use my front break maybe more than the rear...don't know if they were put on right before I bought the bike OR they are really good pads....
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my 05 RMV NEEDS break pads on the front, my question is when I order do I have to order 2 sets or do u get the pads for both sides in a set when u order for the model? i know this may sound dumb but i really have no clue...
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when we've got a long, fun ride coming up. Two years ago, when our local riding group was heading to Boise for a rally, she took the opportunity to demand a little extra attention. She started spitting fuel from the overflow. After a few attempts to fix the issue on the bike, I came time to install the spare set. I enjoyed the ride the put the original (rebuilt) set back on. All good! Time for another rally, this time in St. George where we can ride Zions Natl Park, North Rim of the Grand Canyon, etc. She's starting to insist on some extra attention..... new tires, front and rear, brake pads all around. Got the new tires on yesterday....nice ride improvement. Today I put in the new rear pads and then moved to the front (right) brakes. All was going well until one of the four pistons wouldn't press back in. I tried everything I could, clamps, water pump pliers.... lucky to have a spare caliper, so, I switched them out. Installed the new pads and bled the line. All is good. Time to go spend a week riding in just a couple of weeks.
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I went to take a ride on the 84 Venture and it I couldnt get it to roll the rear brake peddle is hard to push and does not want to come back up all of the way. If I take and pull the pedal back up I can turn the tire when its up on the center stand. I only have to pull the pedal back up maybe a 1/4 of an inch. If I adjust it to take the free play out the rear tire is locked up. Can this be from the pads being wore down and the calipers have went out to far and wont come back in as they would with new pads. I am going to put pads in and bleed some fluid off and see if this helps. Hope that someone has a cure for this one, if not I will tell you what I find out. Orlin
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I need to replace the front pads on my 97 tour deluxe. Have not gotten into it yet, was wondering if there is a blow by blow out there for this particular job. Not sure if there are any tricks that help it go smoothly.. -
Brake Pads binding on rotors
KenP posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Recently I replaced both front rotors with EBC drilled ones, along with new brake pads. I noticed when I tighten the axle nut to the specified 72 ft/lbs. of torque, the wheel does not spin freely. I follow the order of tightening the different areas that the manual recommends. When I put the nut on hand tight, it does spin somewhat freely, but still binds, just less than when I tighten it down. I do have an upgraded fork brace installed. Braking all around is much improved over the stock rotors, however I am just concerned that the binding btwn the rotors and pads will do some damage. Anyone have experience with this issue?? -
I will be changing my brake pads as part of my spring maintenance. I was planning on replacing them with the organic EBC pads (currently use organic EBC pads) but while at the EBC website I discovered EBC's new for 2012 V-pad. See link below for more specifics. Apparently it is a semi sinistered pad????? Longer life, quieter etc etc. I have not figured out if they cost about the same as organic or are they made of gold. Anyone have any experience with these or an opinion about putting V-Pads on my 06 RSV. I have had not problems with my current brakes but always like to enhance performance and useful life of stuff like this. Thanks for your thoughts. http://www.ebcbrakes.com/motorcycle_brake/ebc_v_pads/index.shtml
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I took my 08 RSV to the dealer to have a major service done . The service mgr call to tell me that one of the fork seals is leaking. I inquired about whether it's a warranty issue and he told me he didn't thinks so that the factor considers this normal wear, like brake pads. Oh yeah, I have just under 30k miles. Has any one else dealt with this will still in warranty? Thanks, Rich
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87 VR, lots of miles. I figured I'd post this in General Tech because I bet the calipers are about the same. I had noticed that my rear pads were worn thin at the aft end, but much thicker at the forward end. It had me wondering if the forward pistons were seized, but they are not. Then I noticed significant grooves, maybe 1/32" deep, in the forward surface of the brake-pad-cavity in the caliper. The braking forces shove the pads forward against these surfaces whenever the rear brakes are used, and the backing plates have worn these grooves. They then get caught in the grooves, not allowing the pads to clamp any closer to the rotors at the forward edge, causing the wedge-shaped wear on the pads. Make sense? Anybody else seen this? I thought about filing the surrounding material down to make it smooth again, but then the cavity will be bigger than it's supposed to be and the pads might not contact that surface like they are supposed to. But I don't know that I have any choice, short of replacing the caliper. Ideas? Thanks, Jeremy
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