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Showing results for tags 'output'.
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Has this every happened to anyone before? This one has me a bit perplexed. My 85VR, the output shaft to which the drive axle yoke bolts on to the engine (left side of middle gearbox just behind rubber boot) retaining bolt snapped clean off laying in boot. The only indication I had, that sent me looking was a recent oil leak on the left side. It most likely happened somewhere during my recent 4000km trip, probably on the way back. Can't remember anything taking place except I came back loaded up a bit heavier than going down. Looks like a winter job and might as well pick up the second gear pieces as well although she is not currently due. I wonder if it is any issue driving it for a bit as long as the oil leak does not worsen? I guess I made it for the last 1000 miles since I noticed the leak. At the moment it can't go anywhere but it can work on the output shaft as it is not under torque. Thought I would share that little gem with you all, who knows I could be the first! Lucky me! P.S. I did install the engine about 15,000 miles ago as a replacement and it could have been damaged by someone previously, but it is strange that it would last so long and then break. There was no partial cracks that showed rust, just a clean fresh break.
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Hi This is my first post. I have a 2012 venture. I would like to know if I replace the regulator with a high output one,if that will help my voltage without replacing the stater. Thank you Cheny
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I found this little marine radio when looking for something to replace my stock radio in the VR. The radio is the Prospec Electronics MIL-PRV15. It is a compact all aluminum watertight housing that fits in a 3" round hole and is held in place by a U-shaped bracket from the back. The amp is 40W x 4 and has plenty of power to light up the stock speakers. You also have the ability to plug in a USB flash drive with your favorite MP3's as a source or use the AUX in jacks. Prospec also makes a moisture proof USB-AUX jack that I opted for to bring the USB and AUX jacks to the radio panel. I grabbed the radio for $99.95 at overtons.com. I got the remote jack at the company's website for another $20 plus shipping. http://www.prospecelectronics.com/product_info.php?products_id=136 The LED switch in the lower right is connected to a DPDT relay that routes the output to either the speakers or to the headset cable. I also added a 20dB pad (diagram on request) to the headset output to limit the volume to the headset.
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Hey everyone, all of my searches at Rick's Motorsports Electrics and at Buckeye Performance has tuned up...nada...in regards to an upgraded high output Regulator/Rectifier. I just replaced my Stator with a new High output one from Buckeye. Job Done ! Now I need the new Regulator/Recifier to allow me to flow all that extra juice. I have viewed and followed every thread and link I can find on this forum regarding this. Does anyone really know a company that makes or sells an upgraded higher output Regulator/Rectifier for the newer RSTD or Ventures ??? And while I just know that one or more of you are going to suggest the Shindengen R/R, I have done a lot of searching there too, and I have not found definitive info on exactly which part number would be used for my 2006 RSMTD. Thanks,
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Well, I found my oil leak. It's leaking right at the boot where the drive shaft and u-joint meet. I need to reseal the output shaft. I was looking at the parts diagram for the middle drive gear and I can't seem to find which seals I need. I see the crush washer and spacer, do they consider that the shaft gasket? -
Have you ever had low audio output on your 1st gen?
rstacy posted a topic in GPS, Audio, Electronics
The radio and CB in my 86 work. Its just that they aren't very loud. I would say that max volume gives about 50% output. My 89 easily blows it away in volume. Connections are good at the radio and amp. Any thoughts? -
In for a penny in for a pound. On this years round of 1st gen bike upgrades so far: New tires and rubber front and back By local Two Brothers tires Lawrenceville, Ga. Specializing in MC Tires. Programable TCI upgrade By Dingy New Starter clutch by Dano. So in prep for new Starter Clutch upgrade I'm noticing second stock stator is 1/2 crispy. Evidently, Time to do the high output stator Upgrade. So my question is what is the latest and greatest word on a high output Stator upgrade options for a 1987 MK2 XVZ1300 VR. Might as well do it now while I'm into it this far :mo money:and I have a loaner bike, and convertible to drive around until the 1st gen gets back on the road. Bob -
I founds some tech info on another Venture site (sorry--not disloyal, just thorough). It had output specs for the stator. Mine is perfectly within spec, but the output is less than I would like. Output is between 12.4v and 13.4v (depending on load). I'm looking at a new R/R since my stator is well within spec. Suggestions?
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Well I have finally finished my Bench Tester for TCI's. I can now take in anyone's TCI to test and give a report on the results. The test will consist of the following. 1. Test each input coil circuit to see that it activates the corresponding ignition coil output transistor in the TCI. 2. Test the circuit for the kickstand switch ensuring that it deactivates the TCI. 3. Test the circuit for the pressure switch making sure that it advances/retards the timing. 4. Test to see that each ignition coil is getting the proper voltage to energize. 5. Run tests at a simulated 900 RPM up to 6000 RPM at various speeds. I can bench test the TCI without taking it apart by unsoldering the motherboard from the case. I can also test the board even if it has been taken out of the case. I will do this testing for $30 (return postage extra). Any repairs would require taking out the board and replacing components as required. Pricing will depend on what components would be required but total cost above the $30 should be under $75 (postage extra) I just completed a repair for Rich at wera90ex@aol.com and he was quite happy with the results. (He said I could use his name as a reference.) I'm attaching a picture of my test rig which outputs to my scope. The picture shows an output from a good TCI running at about 1000 RPM. It shows a test for input coil #1 with the output going to ignition coil #1. It was very hard to get a good picture but this does show the output. Any queries about this testing can be sent to me at donb@MNSi.net Best regards to all Don Brechun Windsor, ON
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Several threads here got me thinking about LEDs and our bikes. After looking a the price of LED boards for the 2nd generation RSV, I was in shock, they are IMHO EXPENSIVE, but probably worth it. Not wanting to spend the dollars on lamps with unadvertised light output and being a reasonably frugal guy, I looked for an alternative. I did some research and found the following lamps are installed in our bikes from the factory. cp = Candle Power. Brake/Tail: 1157 with a Ba15d base: 32/3cp Rear Turn: 7507A with a PY21W base: 22.2cp Front Turn/Running: (Unknown bulb) with an unknown base (Still researching): 24/2.2 cp So a quick look in Sylvania Automotive Lamp Catalog I found the following bulbs with SIMILAR bases 2357LL with a Ba15d base: 40/3cp (the LL stands for Long Life. On close inspection it is actually a Krypton bulb.) 2357A with Ba15d base: 30/2.2cp (the A is for Amber coating on the bulb) So I put a 2357LL in my Brake/Tail lamp housing. It was a 25% improvement in light output on the brake light, from 32cp to 40cp!!!!! No improvement on the running light, 3cp to 3cp. BUT it is a longer life bulb. Rated life is 2,000 hours on the brake light and 10,000 hours on the running light. I then put 2357A bulbs in all of the turn signal housings, but I had to remove one of the indexing pins from them. IIRC the front and rear required different pin removal so CHECK it before you do it!!! I used a pair of small diagonal cutting pliers and cleaned it up with a file. If my math is correct I had a 35% increase in light output on the turn signals and a 36% increase in light output on the front running lights. Total cost: $9.40 (minus 10% as my local auto parts store gives a military discount) plus sales tax. WOOOOO HOOOOOO!!!!! this is for two packages of two 2357A bulbs and one package of two 2357 bulbs, so I have a spare brake/tail lamp. I will try to give it to one of my H-D riding friends. So the upgrade cost me less than $10 which is quite a few dollars less than even one LED board and as an added plus they available at all auto parts stores so I did not have to pay for shipping and wait for the brown truck to arrive. Almost instant gratification. I have not seen where the LED boards list the light output (if you know this, please point it out), so I cannot compare the output levels with my inexpensive bulbs until I park next to someone with the LEDs in their bike. The LEDs have a longer life span. The LEDs also have a sharper on and off curve, which should make you more visible when using your brakes or turn signals. The LEDs require you put in a load resistor so your turn signals flash at the normal rate (there goes the power savings), or you must find an electronic flasher unit, at an additional cost, which I have not yet found but they must be made by somebody. With the money I did not spend on the LED boards, I will put that to my first set of replacement tires.........or buy several tanks of gas. Your comments are requested. UPDATE #1: I found two other bulbs that will work as tail lights, but not in the turn signals without changing the lenses as they are not offered in amber. The first is the 3496. It offers 43 CP on high and 3 CP on low. On high it yields a 31.25% increase over stock 1157 at 32 CP verses a 25% increase for the 2357LL at 40 CP but at a cost... they only have a rated live of 600 hours on the bright filament and 5,000 hours on the low, verses the 2357LL with 2,000 on the bright filament and 10,000 on the low.... also locally they are priced at $3.59 per bulb while the 2357LL are priced at $3.44 for two bulbs.... To me, the increased output of 3 CP over the 2357LL is not worth the shorter service life. The second bulb is the H1157 offered by Candlepower (Which is owned by Daniel Stern) (the H is for Halogen)and probably made by Narva. It has a 107 CP bright filament, and a 25 CP low filament!!!!!! But don't run off an buy them yet!!!!! Compared to the 1157 or 2357LL bulb the bright filament is 234% and 168% brighter respectively, but all that light comes at a cost. Only 400 hours service life and all the heat it produces MIGHT melt your tail light housing. Sorry, but I'm not going to test it on my bike!!!!!! OH and now for the bad news, they are priced at $10.35 plus shipping.... each.... The big draw back IMHO is the MUCH brighter running light. It puts out a whopping 25 CP which could be confused for a brake light by some drivers.... this running light is 733% brighter than all the other lamps!!!!!! Like I said, I will not be trying this lamp, but if you do, please provide some feedback!!!!! UPDATE #2: I have put the 3496 bulbs in the brake and turn signals on the rear and they are working fine!!!!!!!!! To bad the 3496 does not come in amber..... or I would use them in the front of this bike. UPDATE #3 I installed a 15" LED stop light under my trunk. I got it from Innovative Light in the factory seconds section HERE for under $8.... plus shipping. I got the slimline in red with retroreflective accents..... not in stock as of this posting but you can check them from time to time. UPDATE #4 This breaks the Poor mans tip but I replaced the stop/tail light with the Street Magic 100 LED Genesis II LED Tail Light from Custom Dynamics HERE and I am impressed!!!!! quick on and off time, wide viewing angle and it is BRIGHT, but it does break the bank........at $90 when I got it.....
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Hello everyone, Before I start... 2005 RSTD, 50,000km. The sum of it is that my charging system is no longer working. I started it up at work a few days ago, seemed fine. Rode to the gas station, filled up, then all I heard was clicks and a slow single turn over of the engine before it died. I suspected that my old battery was,, well, old, so I replaced it with a new battery. Then the other day I went for a good ride and basically the same thing happened. I shut the bike down for a moment but couldn't get it fired back up. Both times I have to get a boost to get the bike fired up and back home. So my next step was to read through what I could on ventureriders.org to diagnose the problem. So far I have pulled the regulator/rectifier that sits right in front of the oil filter (what a complete pain in the butt to get out, had to loosen up the radiator and fight with it some to get the tools in there..) I checked the connection/pins and they look just fine, nothing burnt up. I am going to dig into the seat/battery area to check those wires tonight, see if I can spot some damage of any kind. Bar that, what should I be considering as a possible fix? I was thinking of getting the high output stator from Buckeye (I figure I could use it since I have a handlebar radio, tach, heated gloves, alarm system, sometimes my gps is plugged in as well). I figure if I can't see any damaged/loose wires and the r/r looks fine, then the stator might be suspect. I can replace/upgrade it, if it doesn't fix the problem then at least I have more power production.. Question: If I do replace the stator with the Buckeye, should I get a replacement Regulator/Rectifier as well? Is there a special high output R/R that goes with the high output stator? Does Buckeye sell one? I appreciate any comments and feedback! It's ashamed that the weather is perfect and I'm riding in my car. Having the windows down just isn't the same.. Thanks~! -
Getting an E4 error message on my compressor and the manuel states that this indicates "The pressure sensor has no output voltage". Where do I look to correct this? Thanks, Norm -
I had the two side lamps installed when I bought my rstd new. they have a little toggle switch to turn them on and off. I thought they either stayed on all the time, or came on only on low beam. Is there any particular way these lamps are supposed to be used? or is it simply a matter of personal preference? I must admit, I can't tell that much difference as far as better visability when they're on, but maybe that's just because they're not aimed right. Another question I had was concerning the stator output capacity. I know the older Goldwings came from the factory pretty much at their peak handling capcaity, and you had to be careful about adding on additional light accessories. I was just wondering if the same was true for these yamahas? Thanks for your help. bill -
Plug for the AUX DC output on the battery
Guest posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
Does anyone know a part number or a source for a male plug that will fit the AUX DC output that is tied up beside the battery? I have a heated vest I want to get rigged up but the ends are different and I'd much rather splice the right style of plug on the vest then mod the bike's wiring. Thanks. -
For those of you using or contemplating using the Mr. Gasket #42S fuel pump, be advised that the design has been "improved". Formerly, the input and output nipples were threaded into the pump. That allowed us to insert right- and 45 degree-pieces between the pump and the nipple, allowing the Mr Gasket pump to work for us. The new design has a fixed output nipple, and a long one at that. Consequently, I do not believe that the Mr. Gasket fuel pump will be an acceptable replacement. I went to a different store, and they had one old style pump in front of three new pumps. I snarfed that up, just in case I ever need another.
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Since installing my gauges, I'm wondering if the readings are ok. While running the passing lamps my volt meter reads about 12.3-12.5 Is that enough output to keep things charged up?
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On my recent trip to california my brand new Garmin stopped audio function through the internal speaker and aux output. Anyone had a similar problem. Only mod I did was to split the aux input behind the casette deck so I would not have to ride with the door open. Working fine till I shut it off then no output. Works fine through the FM transmitter I should add. By the way the audio books are a geat thing to listen too crossing the desert.
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Basem's Motorcycles Blog By Basem Wasef, About.com Guide to Motorcycles My Bio My Blog My Forum Add to: iGoogle My Yahoo! RSS U.S. Government to Limit Motorcycle Engine Output to 75 Horsepower Thursday April 1, 2010 http://z.about.com/d/motorcycles/1/0/H/2/0/-/big_engine_310.jpg Acting preemptively in light of the European Union's recent push towards limiting motorcycle horsepower to 100, Congress has quietly passed a transportation bill that will cap motorcycle engine output at 75 hp. At a press conference today, DOT spokesman Melvin P. Meyers announced that "We can't lag behind Europe's progressive stance towards two-wheeled moderation." The bill not only limits the horsepower of current and future motorcycle models, it retroactively applies to any registered bike on the road, and will take effect as early as January, 2011. "In the interest of public safety," Meyers explains, "law enforcement officials will clamp down on any and all motorcyclists who violate the law." The bill outlines numerous electronic and mechanical implements that reduce engine output. For instance, fuel-injected powerplants will be fitted with revised engine management chips and/or throttle bodies, while older carbureted bikes will have a reduction gear attached to the throttle assembly. At the discretion of state police, mobile dynamometers may be utilized for field tests. Both the Motorcycle Industry Council and the American Motorcyclist Association have lobbied against the bill, in addition to most manufacturers including Aprilia, BMW, Ducati, Honda, Kawasaki, KTM, Suzuki, Triumph, and Yamaha. There has been no comment from Harley-Davidson, though Forbes reports that Harley stock has jumped 12 percent on the announcement.*
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Hi: Does anyone know if there is an extra RCA line level output, or subwoofer output available on the 2nd Gen Venture stereo? I am looking at possibly adding a Clarion SRV314 subwoofer but will need an audio signal. This sub can accept a line level RCA signal or speaker level so either would work. Any idea where I would start to look to find out if it does have one? I am looking to get a bit more bass to go with my polk audio dB 401s. Ron
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I'm looking to get a new set of speakers for my bike (Soundstorm F240's) for a great price. They seem to look great, and have great specs regarding what I'm looking for. However, I'm not sure what the output is on the radio amp? I'm gonna guess it's less than 50 watts as most cars in that time period usually had 35 watt amps from the factory. Thanks in advance, WHCC -
Am planning an early June trip to Colorado this coming summer...Going to be a bit chilly riding a few of those passes I imagine.. was thinking of a heated vest for my better half, but wondered if the electrical output of my 84 first gen is enough... I was thinking no, but thought I check with the folks here.. Anyone early first gen riders familiar with this...??? Thanks, Clay
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i did a search, but i didn't find the information i was looking for, specifically, does anyone have an idea of how many watts at what rpms the stock stator puts out for the mk2s? anyone have any experence with any of the aftermarket "higher output" stators? it's winter and i need something to do, so of course i'm looking at farkles!
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Are all the stators for the 1st gens the same or did the 83-85 have a different one from the later years? I'm thinking of picking up a high output one to compliment my new regulator upgrade. -
I think I'm in dire need of a new stator. Can someone point me in the right direction. I know some time ago, there was talk of a beefed up stator on the market, but cannot find the thread. My current output is 12.57 volts, but I cannot live on the battery alone for long. Joe (Saddle_Bag)
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Has anyone tried to use a 12V tire inflator powered from the faring accessory output? I have heard that they will blow the fuse.
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