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Showing results for tags 'oil'.
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Greetings all After 122,000 kms, I think I should change the FDO. I did a quick search for the method to do yourself. Anyone have a link or the procedure for doing it and the best oil to use?
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Can I get rid of it? I want to remove the breather tube that goes from the crankcase to the intake. Can I remove it and put something in its place like a filter or something? Even with perfect oil level it makes my intake box oily.
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The Barnett clutch was installed this evening. Took about an hour since I also cleaned up the areas I normally can't get to. Also took 15 minutes to find my darn 1/4 ratchet (never did find it - one of the kids must have borrowed it and forgot to put it back - Grrrrr). As promised, here is the installation with pictures. Here is the Barnett clutch plate as received. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-rLB7KNp/0/M/P1000116-M.jpg These are the tools required. Ball end Allen wrenches, mechanics picks, and an in-lb torque wrench. Not shown is a 10mm socket/combo wrench for removing the Stebel horn (if installed - not sure if you need to remove a stock horn) and the stock spring holder ring. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-FQTRxKX/0/M/P1000118-M.jpg Put the bike on the side stand and put an oil pan under the clutch cover side. No need to drain the oil unless you smoked your clutch. Then an oil change would be needed. Put the transmission in neutral. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-JGw69SQ/0/M/P1000119-M.jpg Take off the horn and hang it from the rear foot board with a piece of coat hanger. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-4xXPJzH/0/M/P1000120-M.jpg Take the cover off the clutch. Pay attention to where the bolts go. There are two different length bolts. I suggest taking a piece of corrugated (cardboard), draw the cover shape including the oil fill for reference. Use a small screw driver to poke holes and insert the bolts in the appropriate location in the pattern. You may notice the gasket stayed intact on the engine. I reused it. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-j9rgXjB/0/M/P1000121-M.jpg Remove the 6 bolts holding the spring in place and remove the spring and pressure plate. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-v7v9BWC/0/M/P1000122-M.jpg Here are the parts removed. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Zck5Cvw/0/M/P1000123-M.jpg Note the notches in the friction plate edges and the two punch marks on the clutch cage. This is important when reinstalling. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-sFfdMgK/0/M/P1000124-M.jpg This is where the mechanics picks come in handy. Makes the removal of the clutch disks really easy. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Gv4cfxF/0/M/P1000126-M.jpg When all is removed, it looks like this. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-V3w5RwF/0/M/P1000127-M.jpg I had done the Freebird mod which removes the inner half friction disk and small bellville spring and replaces it with a full disk. This mod reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle. I wanted the additional friction zone so I am putting the half and half back in. Here are the pieces including the wire. You are supposed to use a new wire every time. However, I was really careful when removing it and am reusing my old wire (plus, I didn't think ahead of time to buy a new one). http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-7C5gF4Z/0/M/P1000128-M.jpg To be continued. RR -
Hi everyone, just completed a 4k ride with the R1 upgrade, Vmax rotors, stainless lines and EBC HH pads. Wow, what a diff. However, I can really notice the limitations of the stock, front master cylinder when leaning on them. What's the upgrade for the master cylinder? Also, has anybody come up with a fork spring solution other than the progs? I just put them on before the trip (block off plates, AD's removed) and once most of the oil blew passed the seals, they mellowed a little. Still, I'm not liking them at all. Way too stiff. I look down at the forks and unless I really lean on them or hit a huge bump, they don't compress at all! I put progs on my 92' BMW K75 back in 2006 and had the exact same experience. I have no spacers installed for preload at all. I would think a two stage spring would be awesome. Perhaps cutting the progs down and adding something softer in the bottom? Has anybody come up with a better solution? Perhaps I don't have them dialed in correctly but even with no oil at all they're too stiff. I was using 10wt. Also, I'm sure it's not the weight of the bike. I had the bike and trailer fully laden weighed on our last night: Bike = 933lbs, trailer = 435lb. Tounge weight is around 20lbs. I'm 190 and my wife is 145. Still seemed incredibly rigid. Thanks everyone! Great forum! -
Changed the oil in my 04 today, it had reg oil that the guy I bought it from had put it. but this is only it third oil change. It did have a very low chirp to it. I changed to the mobil one racing oil and after about 10 miles, no more chirp, no whine just a perfectly quiet bike. Well except for the mufflers I modified. Mobil One 4T racing 10-40 Gregg:missingtooth:
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Is this oil ok to use in an '06 RSTD? I changed my oil using this oil and the bike seems to run just fine; however, a buddy of mine has got me paranoid telling me that diesel oils can cause damage becuase of the higher detergent components. Seems like a bunch of hooey to me but I thought I would ask.
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I know oils have been discussed before but based on a couple locally available oils and an '09 Venture, which one would you use? I know a couple are automotive oils but some people say they are okay to use. Our local Canadian Tire has : - Rotella - don't remember the description but think it was 15w-40 - Castrol GTX 10W-40 (anti-sludge formula) http://www.castrol.com/castrol/genericarticle.do?categoryId=82915464&contentId=6003410 - Quaker State 10w-40 SAE Peak Performance (Advanced Durability) http://www.quakerstate.com/#/motor-oil/advanced-durability - Motomaster Formula 1 10w-40 (premium 4 stroke) - $5/litre - Mobil 1 MX4T 10w-40 - $17/litre (http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Motorcycle_Oil_FAQs.aspx#FAQs2) Amsoil Synthetic motorcycle oil - 10w-40 - $20/litre (http://www.syntheticoildealer.com/royle/dyno.htm
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When I bought my 83VR in December I had no idea what oil was being used in it. I changed it using 20w50 Valvoline regular motorcycle oil. I would like to chance to synthetic oil. In the past when I tried to use synthetic oil in cars that had some miles on them they leaked oil quite badly. My 83 has 48000 miles in it. Do you think it would be safe to go to synthetic?
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I am needing some help on which final gear oil to use. My owners manual says to use GL-4, but I am not having any luck finding it. All I can find is GL-5 and by what I can find on the internet, that is not compatable with GL-4 service. I have heard that it is ok to use GL-5 if it is a synthetic, however I can't find that on any manufactures web sites. Do any of you know about this? I would appreciate the benefit of any research you have done. Thanks.
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In case you weren't aware the original WD-40 was never intended to be used as a "lubricant". As I understand, it was formulated as a Water Displacement solvent. It was formulated to rid moisture from distributor caps, electrical contacts, etc. It has a secondary benefit as a "solvent", good for removing grease, gunk and funk from nasty stuff. This fact was burned in my memory when I was behind an old man at the quick oil change place one day. We were both outside our vehicles & he told the techs, "Don't lube my door hinges." Several minutes later they were spraying his truck liberally with WD-40. He went ballistic! Accused them of stealing the grease from his door hinges is about as mildly as I can put it. That's when I learned about the properties & purposes of WD-40 & I've been forever grateful for the free education. Move on a decade & yesterday the computer tech buys a can of "new high tech lube" for our linear bearing rails for our laser engravers, CNC's & spindle bearings. I saw the can (WD-40) & I thought, "Stupid geek"! Then I looked at the label. WD-40 SPECIALIST SPRAY & STAY LUBRICANT NO-DRIP FORMULA. Says to myself, "Self, looks like everything else these days... the lines have been blurred." Sure enough, go on the WD-40 website & they now have a plethora of products to address the multiple uses folks THOUGHT the original formula was the holy grail for. Wanted to give a heads up. Just thought ya might consider swinging the other way. Not an endorsement.
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Can't get the rear drive oil filler plug out on my red bike. It seems stuck fast. I have tried some heat and currently have some kroil soaking on top of it. Its dark now, so I'll leave it soak till tomorrow. I am afraid of deforming the hex of the plug if I put on too much force. I havent tried the drain plug bolt yet but everything is very dry on this bike so I'll bet it will be a problem too. Suggestions? Thanks, Brian H. -
I have oil collecting at the top of the left rear cylinder just below the chrome cover. I thought it was only occurring while running, but the bike has been sitting in the garage since Dec. 7th at which time I cleaned it thoroughly. While installing a Speed Bleeder and changing my clutch fluid over the weekend, I found oil there again. On the car I'd suspect a valve cover gasket. Do I have a valve cover gasket or similar on my RSV? Suggestions welcome. Ken -
when i bought this 88 venture last week i mentioned that it had a loose front end i changed fork oil, and this solved the right side oil leak that i had, but still had a very bad shimmy at all speeds when i released pressure on the handle bars, severe enough that i was afraid to ride it. the bike also needed tires and i opted for dunlop elite 111s, as this seemed the tire of choice on the forum, i use dyna beads in my roadstar so thats what i used in the dunlops and guess what?absolutley no shimmy or vibes from the front end, and the mirrors are clear. Frank
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NEW GUY(to this forum) QUESTION: 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe owner, tired of paying dealer big bucks to change oil. Can anyone direct me to instructions on doing it myself? Is there a place on this website? HOW DO I CHANGE MY OIL?? Bruce Lamarche Glendora, CA
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I've had my 2004 venture for right about a month now. I noticed a little oil under the crank case breather tube and discovered it was probably because the oil level was too high. I changed the oil and put a little less in than it had when I got it. Although it was still close to the top of the sight glass when the bike was level. The crankcase tube leak has stopped but now I've noticed twice during the past week or so oil dripping from near the left rear cylinder. Last night I pulled the oil filter and drained a little oil hoping that would solve my problem. I cranked the bike again just a little while ago and now its smoking pretty bad. Any thoughts or ideas on what could be causing the new leak and smoking? Advice on how to remedy this problem would be great as well. BTW this bike has a little over 64,000 miles now and I'm still running Amsoil 20W50 just like the original owner has for the life of the bike. Thanks
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My sons' little dodge mini van seems to have blown a head gasket. The oil is like creamy pudding. How the heck do I clean the oil system up? I know it is going to take a couple of oil changes but should I be adding a cleaner to the oil ? This van has a 3.0 liter V-6 in it.... when I went to pick up the gasket set the guy at the parts store asked me if I wanted new Head Bolts. He said the norm is to change them when doing gaskets.... they are $165 for the set. Does anyone know if I need to? This motor has about 145,000 kilometers.... about 90,000 miles Any help would be great Kevin
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Do you need to drain the oil before pulling the cover? I know there will be some oil lost when doing so, but how much is up there?
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I have searched through the forum and the instructions that came with the springs. I can not confirm the amount of oil to re-install in the forks. The only amount I see is in a thread about changing the oil but doesn't seem to be specific to Sonics. It seems to me that the 10 1/2 inches of PVC would displace more oil than the stock springs so less oil would/should be added to forks. In the middle of the job now so any help would be appreciated.
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I have put 130,000 miles on my 83 and have had two different transmissions in it so I feel I know it pretty well. The oil I have mostly used has been Valvoline 10-40 and have also run Amsoil for motorcycles and some Valvoline Synthetic. This past oil change I put in the Rotella and even though the gear whine has not been real noticeable in the past, I am positively convinced that the whine is even less noticeable than before. I know that this may not help the whine that is associated with the clutch basket, but it may help the straight cut gear whine that is normal in these bikes. I was also wondering if any others that went to the Rotella oil feel this way? I got this oil at O'Rilleys for about $13 a gallon. RandyA
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What oil do you run for winter driving? I was thinking maybe semi-synthetic 5W-30 oil. I am planning on commuting to work on the bike this winter here in -
I'm hearing a clicking sound from the rear end when I slow for a traffic light or stop sign. Checked the oil and it's full. Should I pull the drive shaft and check it? She's a 2006 with 22,000 miles.
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I hadn't ridden my 83 VR for a couple weeks due to extreme temps outside. I checked the oil and it was fine, rode to the store with no problems, but got hit with a slew of LCD displays on the way home. The kickstand, brake, oil and headlight pictographs are all on constantly, and the red warning light flickers brighter the faster I rev. I got home and rechecked oil- ok. Lights all operate, charging system at around 14 when running, temp in the mid green, resevoir at proper level. Brake and clutch fluids all clean and full. Runs like a top but I'm worried it's gonna die on me or I will harm the engine. I checked it cold also and have same problem, even without starting the engine. When it runs thru the power-up checks, those LCDs just stay on. Could it be a bad ground in the LCD panel? I read a thread about the repair, but wasn't clear on the symptoms that prompted it. -
While cleaning block up today, I took some pictures of the 2nd drain plug on the 1st gen blocks. I Don't know if the 2nd gens have a similar 'feature'. On the left side, directly under the middle drive cover there is a 14mm head bolt that goes into block and drains an oil pocket. This pocket appears to serve as a lubrication pool for the middle drive gear. Not very big, maybe about the size of a milk container that I remember from school, half pint I think. This pocket is isolated from draining, so a normal oil change will not drain this oil. Curiously, there is another pocket that is isolated that lays outside of the pocket that has the drain screw It is an 'L' shaped pocket that is below & to the right in the 1st picture. No drain provision for this area though. It would be nice to know what the design intent was for the 2nd outer pocket, and why it is not can't be drained. Gary -
Is there such a thing as shelf-life for gear oil? I've had this 1 qt jug of this stuff since about 1998. Have used it in my last 3 bikes no problem ... is it still good or should I buy new?
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This is for all Hannigan Steer-Lite owners or anyone who may know the needed info... My parts are on their way & should be received in less than a week. I'm in the process of replacing the stock fork springs & 5 weight fork oil, with 15 weight fork oil & Progressive Springs. Does anyone have info on what the 4 fork clamp bolts on the Triple Tree should be torqued to? Any info or suggestions will be greatly appreciated! I also plan on installing the forks so that the top fork cover is flush with the top of the Tree. Front side flush - back side a little below to make it easy for maintenance checks. My goal is to do this once & enjoy my very nice Venture-Hannigan Trike. Thanks; John
