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Showing results for tags 'ohms'.
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Turned meter to OHM 200 @ (20 there was no reading) the R/R @ 1-2 1-3 & 2-3 all showed 1.6 ohms (the 2.0) the second time no loose pins & wiring was clean,, no burnt pins
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My Venture won't start. I have spark on 1 and 3. Nothing on 2 or 4. I've swapped the coils around and the problem moved to 1 and 3 when I swapped the wiring from the TCI, so I know the coils are good. According to page 7-17 of the service manual, I'm supposed to have 110 ohms between the Orange and all the other wires coming off the pickups. I have 105 ohms between the Orange and red/white but 200+ ohms between the Orange and all the rest. Am I looking at a pickup issue or a TCI issue? Thanks, Jeff
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Does anyone know what the resistance reading should be from the starter cable connection to ground. My friend's '82 Yamaha has 0.2 ohms. This seems low to me. Can not find any info on reading in service manual. Frank
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I have a set of Denso COP coils in hand. They came out of a 2007 Honda CBR 1000. This unit would replace the larger coils used on the bike now. 129700-4840 10484 printed on coil end - 08H31 stamped in same area The Ignitech TCI module maker said it would handle the coils lower primary resistance. Going to give these a try on the bike as I am not really happy with where I had to install rear pair of coils. A little other discussion on this at link below. Started a new thread to maybe get some fresh inputs. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58797 All 4 coils primary's measure 1.4 ohms All four coils secondary's measure 13.46K ohms. How do I tell which of the 2 input terminals is the common 12V+ terminal. I can see no markings which indicate internal wiring. My meter is not sensitive enough to differentiate between 13.46K ohms only and 13.46k ohms plus the 1.4 ohms coils in series. Could I just test wire up a circuit. Put plug in & grounded. Put 12v + to one side of coil & 12v - to other side of coil (this attached to plug ground). Open negative side at coil. This seems like it should fire plug. If it does polarity guessed at correct. If not flip polarity at coil pins. It should fire if it didn't before. Schematic shows two wiring choices. Anyone see any fault with this. Picture of COP coil on head is just a random one I came across for an idea what they look like installed. Gary
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Not 100% sure of this, but it seems as it's been the neutral switch all along! Just conducts enough to light the dash but not enough to energise the sidestand relay! All this time it has been on the sidestandwith the neutral light on, but no spark. In order to change the vacuum lines and carb mounts I've had it on the center stand. Finally got done with all that stuff and decided to do some serious electricaql troubleshooting. Measuerd the resistance on the neutral switch to ground and found about 20 ohms or so. Reminded me of when my kickstaqnd switch went out, wasn't open, but had around 6-8 ohms, enough to kill the starting circuit. Soooo, long story short, put the kickstand up, used the clutch to start, and within 30 seconds it was running!! Very rough, but runing. I wonder if 2-3 year old gas has anything to do with it?!!? It has new plugs but they may be somewhat fouled out already. A full tank of High test and a can of seafoam should do something, followed by new plugs again!
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My 86vr was running good. On my way home from work.it started acting like running out of gas ,with some backfiring.I checked ohms on pickup coils & ignition coils there OK.But no spark to back 2 plugs.Any ideas would be helpfull.
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Well I pulled the plug caps apart and removed the resistor, cleaned the insides,and replaced with copper wire. pulled the connectors off the TCI and cleaned em, checked plugs with ohm meter [like I knew what I was doing ha!] I don't remember what the reading were but they were the same, checked the plug on the left side of the frame rail-unhooked going to TCI it read 540 ohms except the w/g 512 ohms, going towards pick up coils there was no resistance, o. So with what I could find to clean I did, fired it up, warmed it still #1 & #3 are dead between 2000 RPM and 2500.? I really hate to just start throwing parts at it and try to hit something, really was hoping it was the resistors in the plug caps, any ideas?
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Anyone here ever tried to adjust the throttle position sensor on a 2nd gen (or even just check the closed throttle measurement)? I think I found another significant error in the shop manual, but I would like to compare notes with others who may have already gone there. Page 6-13 of my shop manual describes how to calculate the proper maximum resistance of the sensor in the throttle fully closed position (typically around 700 ohms), then they instruct you to measure this resistance between the yellow and blue wires. Well, the resistance between the yellow and blue wires is HIGH in the fully closed position and goes down as you open the throttle. You get the correct low resistance with the throttle fully closed when measured between the yellow and BLACK wires. Just for the record, the TPS on my 05 was reading a bit high in the fully closed position, and it could not be adjusted down within specs - close, but not quite low enough (calculation showed it should have been between 629 - 726 ohms. It started at 778 ohms and I could not get it below 752 ohms). I have not researched this circuit yet to know how this should affect the bike. I'll let y'all know more when I figure it out. Goose
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I'm continuing to have trouble with getting a spark out of my #4 cylinder. All ignition and pickup coils passes the resistance test in the service manual. Swapped pickup pins from #3 to #4, that would generate a spark through the #4 ignition coil. Believing I had the problem isolated to the TCI, I first swapped transistors on the original unit then purchased another TCI from ebay. After resolving some interlock issues, I'm having the same problem with spark on 3 cylinders, none on #4. Is there another way to verify the pickup coils are working or non-functioning? Here are my resistance tests on the pickup coils: #1 119.7 Ohms #2 122.2 Ohms #3 118.7 Ohms #4 115.9 Ohms I'm wondering if the contact area for that coil is not any good, would that still show good resistance? Any thoughts?
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The #4 cylinder on my 83VR isn't firing. I verified the ignition coil works by swapping the plug-in with the #3 coil. Went to the back of the bike and swapped wires on the pickup coils to confirm that wasn't the problem. The #3 ignition coil when hooked to the #4 pickup sparked without problem. Before having this much fun, I checked resistance throughout the ignition system. Here is what I found: Pickup Coil #1 119.7 Ohms #2 122.2 Ohms #3 118.7 Ohms #4 115.9 Ohms Ignition Coils: #1 3.5 Ohms #2 3.6 Ohms #3 3.4 Ohms #4 3.5 Ohms Resistance across the TCI +12V to ground is 392 Ohms. I pulled the back cover off to check for any major signs of corrosion or burning. Nothing nasty, and the solders look solid around the heatsinks and plug connectors. I'm wondering if the transistor that fires #4 might be shot? Any other ideas, and ways to test? Anyone know which transistor fires #4? I've attached a photo that laxman used in a post last year about his TCI.
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About 2 years ago, I installed a used fuel pump I bought on E-Bay. It worked just fine, so I left it installed on the 89. Was at about 47K at the time. So: Today, after carrying the original around in the Bags as a spare, I decided to re-install the original pump. ( Just to make sure it was working ) Wa La !!! Fuse Blew !!! It don't work. Opened it up, Pressure Switch OK, Pump section OK ( the bottom part ) . But found Low Resistance thru the Main Coil. About 1.3 ohms. The good one reads about 2.5 ohms ???? Totally at a loss to explain this, as the darn thing was working just fine 2 years ago when I removed it, and wrapped it up in a bag to carry as a spare. ???