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Showing results for tags 'o-ring'.
Found 14 results
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Turns out I was being cheap and stupid. I tripped over my ego and landed with, well you know. Anyway, I take great pride in the fact that I think I am a pretty good mechanic, unfortunately, there comes a time when you realize the thinking part of that statement can be your undoing. I have had my Royal Star for 17 years and the last 10 have done all my own work. I can pull those carbs off with my eyes closed, well at least that part is true. It is what happens after you get em off that is the problem. I diagnose the problem and fix whatever is wrong and put em back together, built a lot of my own test gadgets and sync tool, man am I smart! I save tons of money too! So after all this time, seems the bike and I are growing old, why a month ago I embarrassed myself at a Patriot Guard ride. I was in formation next to a trike and we came to an idle crawl. I found myself doing the "bike weave" with the front tire and pulling the clutch in more than it was out trying to ride at a complete idle. I kept having to put my feet down and as my face was getting a little more crimson in color and by God I was jealous of the guy on the trike and thinking maybe it was time to retire the old girl cause I could hardly do this anymore. Well, I went home, let the bike sit for a couple of weeks, then thought I would go for a ride. The bike had taken to leaking a little fuel if I left it sit for awhile but the leak would stop after it got warmed up. DANG ETHANOL! I knew that crap must be drying out the rubber! So I thought, the float needles are rubber and they are the only thing that would make the fuel run out because I had already adjusted the floats and being the ace mechanic that I am this must be it. I ordered the needles, pulled the carbs and replaced them, put it all back together and fired it up. Now I have a leak at one of the float bowls, needs a new o-ring, ordered the o-ring. pulled off the carbs, replaced the O-ring and put everything back together and fired it up, now I have popping, could not figure this out so guessed I must have put something together wrong, pulled the carbs off again, could not find anything wrong so I did all the tests, I find that the float level will not remain the same over time, diagnosed to a bad o-ring on the float seat assembly. Ordered them, replaced them, put everything back together and fired it up..... another float bowl o-ring is leaking....Now at this point it has been three months since the PGR ride and those carbs have been off more than granny's nightgown. I give up and order all new parts for the carbs, because by now I have a mismatched bunch of parts that have been replaced at all kinds of different times, bear in mind that this is how I have been doing the maintenance over the years. The parts were not all that expensive, a few hundred bucks when purchased all together. I rebuilt the carbs, did all the adjustments, fired em up, synced and low and behold, I am not OLD, I can ride at idle. Not only that, but my gas mileage has improved by over 10 mpg, I can turn tighter and starts at lights are almost night and day different. If you have been riding the same bike, and it seems like you are growing old together, rethink it! I did not notice the degradation in performance over time but after rebuilding it the sound is so different, I am ashamed that I did not notice any of those things. I was ready to cash it in. So for all you out there that any of this sounds familiar, take it from a newly humbled idiot. All this time I thought I was being frugal and smart, turns out, I was being cheap and stupid! Old dogs really can learn, too bad it took so long! Anybody wants to know how to get the carbs off or back on in 6 1/2 minutes let me know.
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Well I got my 93 up running with a carb rebuild, but I noticed the revs slow to come back down, so I figure a vacuum leak. I sprayed carb cleaner around the boots that attach to the head, and sure enough the revs jump up on all four cylinders. I see there is an o-ring in the boot assembly. My question is, can you usually get by with just an o-ring change, or do the boots themselves routinely go bad? The bike has less than 19,000 miles on it, so it has spent lots of time sitting. Thanks.
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I need to fix the gear indicator and have read in the tech section that I will probably need new gaskets and O-ring. Is there a good place to get them in Canada? -
I've been fighting with the cover on the thermostat housing leaking on my '89. When I bought it 2 1/2 years ago, it had a small leak. I took the thermostat housing off and changed all 4 O rings. Everything was fine---for a little while. A month or two later it started leaking intermittantly. Usually when left outisde in the cold, but not always. Last winter I pulled it off again and replaced the O rings again, and also the housing cover because it was mentioned here that they do warp from the exhaust pipe heat. BTW, I put it together with O-rings I purchased at my dealer. It was OK all last year, but this winter it started leaking again. The coldest my garage gets during the winter is about 32 degrees F. When I took it apart, I found that the O-ring was damaged (it looked like it'd been nicked). I remember that it was real hard to get the top on the housing last year and the OE O-ring is 2mm dia., so I installed a 1/16" O-ring. Now it seeps a little bit when it starts to warm up, but when it's hot it's fine. BTW, 1/16"=.0625" 2mm=.079" I will pick up a Yamaha O-ring tomorrow, but I think that something else is wrong because it's happening so frequently. I cleaned up the main housing surface that mates wtih the O-ring so there shouldn't be anything keeping the O-ring from seating. With the 1/16 O-ring, the top felt snug. When I use a 2mm O-ring, it is TIGHT. I'm pretty certain that on my 83' I used a 3/32" (.094") O-ring, but there is no way I could get that to fit this bike. I used a coating of Vaseline to keep from damaging the O-rings when things were assembled. Any ideas?? I'm thinking of heating up the aluminum portion of the housing (in hot water) to get it to expand so that the top will go on easier and not damage the 2mm O ring. Frank D.
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Well after 3 years of leaking coolant I finally found the leak while at the WI MD. This was a leak that only happened when the engine was cold. I cold never find any drop or stain on anything on the bike. I know everyone will say it was the drain cock, the symptoms match that one perfectly. I did the new o-ring and SS screw upgrade and cleaned all of the corrosion out of the o-ring bore so I know it is not that, and the drip is more to the right side of the bike. This normally only leaked a couple of drops of coolant per day. After I got to the WI MD and the bike was parked for about 6 hours I spotted a drop on the driveway. I figured that I could finally catch the bike in the act of taking a leak, and I did. Well what I finally found is a tiny hairline crack about a half inch long in the thermostat cover. while I am in there I will also replace the hard 90° elbow that has a dent in it fro the right crash bar. I'll also grind off the corner of the crash bar so that it does not dent the new tube so easy. I have the new parts ordered. Now I just need to figure out how to get to it. From a distance it looks like the radiator and exhaust pipe are in the way. Any pointers will be helpful. What else should I do in there while it is apart?
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I bought a new Barons V4 Water Pump Cover and replaced the stock cover, using a new o-ring, and it leaked when starting. I tightened it down more but still leaked. So I got another new o-ring and reinstalled again today, making sure I got it seated properly. After torquing per the book (7.2 ft/lb) and refilling radiator, it leaked again. I tightened the screws down a bit more (10 ft/lb) & it still weeps. I've got 1 more o-ring left so am thinking of putting the stock piece back on again. Just wondering if anyone else with this V4 cover had any leaks? And wondering how tight do I dare torque those bolts in? Also, what's the normal water temp if the bike's been sitting at idle for 5 minutes?
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Would there be any interest from members to purchase replacement square cut O-Rings that go between the brake caliper halves on 1st gen bikes. These are not used on 2nd gen bikes due to caliper design. Yamaha does not list a part for this square cut O-Ring. They recommend in the service manual not splitting the calipers. In order to give the calipers a decent cleaning though, I have found that splitting the caliper is necessary. At times it is need to just get the pistons out of the caliper body. I have located a supplier that will make this O-Ring for me. I have to order a quantity of 250 of them though. There is a 7 week lead time. I can supply 6 of these O-Rings, which is the quantity needed for all three calipers, for a cost of $10.00 including shipping to U.S. & Canada. Please post to this thread or PM me if interested. Bear in mind the long lead time I have on getting these special O-Rings. Gary -
Question for you guys, didn't find anything on the forums ( but i might be blind! ) My draincock is leaking, and i see that there is an O-Ring that goes on that valve, but i have three questions: 1. is it ok to use a Viton O-Ring in there? 2. How do i get the darn thing out? 3. which position is it supposed to be in during regular opperation? the book shows you turning it to "on" for flushing the system, but does that mean that normally off is supposed to point to the left (as you face the headlight, looking at the valve) thanks again!
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I purchased the carb diaphragms from Sirius (who gave us the discount) and they were great. Really easy to install! However, I also purchased some carb mounts (boots between carb and head). They sell them WITHOUT the o-ring! I was very disappointed to see they don't come with the REQUIRED o-ring. Anyways, I would say get the diaphragms from them, but avoid the boots from them as they are not complete! -
My drain cock assembly was leaking. I took the plug out and found that the O-ring was missing. I figured that was the problem. I ordered a O-ring from the local Yamaha dealership and I picked it up today. I got all off the pieces together and found that I am missing that little tiny ball that sits on top of the spring. Are there places that might have them? If so, what size is that little ball? Any help with this matter would be greatly appreciated. Todd -
On my '98 TD...at the rear 4-bolt square flange of the drive shaft tube, where it bolts to the differential housing......Is there a gasket or O-ring for that? I've noticed the bottom of that bolted connection has been black & greasy the last few times I cleaned the bike up. (not a lot, but it's obvious that it's there) I can't really get where I can see around under the bike generally. Had it checked, bolts are tight. Fluid levels are good. Is it possible it's coming from somewhere else. If so, where might that be?
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I seem to have a bit of oil seepage from my oil filter housing (1st generation). It seems to be coming from around the large O-ring that seals the oil filter housing 'cup' to the block....the center bolt area O-ring area is dry. I've just installed a new O-rings again and after about 100 km it seems to want to start seeping again. It seems to be very minimal seepage....not even leaving drops on the floor. Any thoughts on me getting a tight seal on this (without me going to the spin on filter adapter)??? Thanks!
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OK, here is one for ya. I took the mixture jet out of the carb and all be damm if I can't remember witch way they go back in. Is it spring, washer, o-ring, or spring o-ring, washer. Any help would be greatly helpful...
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I'm in the middle of a frame change because of a broken frame. While i had the engine out i wanted to check the oil line o-ring. What i found was a good red o-ring. the rest of thr o-rings are of the red type including the pump line. What disturbes me is the red 0-ring i found in the oil pump pick up screen. It seems to be the same size as the one on the oil distribution line that gives trouble (as stated in another thread by RandyA). I am concerned thet i have blown one out somewhere else; but i can't imagine where it could have come from. I have looked in the manual; but i can't find another one that big. maybe i overlooked it??? Do any of you have any ideas? I have attatched picts of the o-ring. One picture is a comparison to the oil pump line and the oil distribution line o-rings. The larger o-ring is from the oil pump line. In addition to the other trash that i dug out of the screen, i found the steel ball th at is in the picture with the broken o-ring. i included a pict of the tip of a ball point pen for size comparrison. Any ideas what the ball may be?? I think i saw anotherone but could not find it. might have been mistaken or droped it. The bike had been hard shifting before i pulled the engine. (Klunky) and i have developed a knock at idle that goes away whith increased engine speed. These are the reason i checked the o-ring.
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