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Showing results for tags 'nut'.
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steering head bearings
Locomotive posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I finally had time to do a few things to my bike and one of them was to tighten up the head bearings. Now the wobble is gone but the bike seems to wander a bit on the road. Im thinking that i tightened the nut a little too mutch. What is the best way to know just how tight the steering bearings have to be ? I had my bike on the centerstand when i adjusted mine but i gave the nut a little extra snugness and that might be where the problem lies. Any ideas ? -
I removed the nut that holds the upper handlebar in place and machined a nifty little stub fom a piece of 303 stainless to go back in its place. 10x1mm are the threads on that nut and curiously enough that is not a common metric fastener but I did have a tap. After screwing it on in place of the nut I wished I had made it longer but I can always make another to go on the other side.
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Does anybody know what other year rear end will work in a 87 first gen? I have not taken the bike apart yet but from what i have read here it sounds like a rear end nut issuse. -
While working on a friend's bike the other day, he mentioned that the choke wouldn't stay on by itself. After doing some searching on here, I couldn't find an answer as to how to get it to stay on without simply standing there holding the choke knob out. So I decided that there might be others out there with the same problem. Here's the solution. If you lay down on the floor and look up at the choke knob, just behind it(towards the rear of the bike) there is a hex nut that is held in place by a flat thin locking tab. It looks like a very thin flat washer. See picture below. All you have to do is take is a flat blade screwdriver and straighten out the tab that is holding the nut in place. Then with the appropriate wrench or even a pair of plyers, tighten the nut just enough to start holding the choke linkages in place. This shouldn't take tightening but maybe one flat on the nut. Afterwards, bend the tab back over at any place it's most convenient. Now your choke should stay on until you push it back in. Don't over tighten or it will be hard to push back in.
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OK, here's my latest invention on how I plan to mount up to 3 accessories on the Handle Bar Accessory Turn Buckle Bar. Now that’s a mouthful. Each End is a 17 mm opening that fits over each 17 mm nut. First You turn the turn buckle to draw the ends in. You slide the left end in over the 17mm nut. Then slide the right end into the opening You grab the Right End then you turn the center of the turn buckle down. As the right end buts up against the 17 mm nut you twist the right end to fit over the 17 mm nut as you continue to turn the turn buckle. The two ends will extend out putting pressure onto the handle bars. The bar is milled at 7/8 inch. I will be putting the least strength lock tight on the turn buckle threads. The 17 mm openings on each end will be slghtly tapered so to make a real tight fit. I plan to mount my GPS, Ipod, Cell Phone.
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I take it this is really loose? Now , when I loosen the top nut a hair, do I use the screw driver, on the lower nut? and tap it up, or the top down? My reason for the question is: The front end feels sloppy over 65
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ok, so if your tall like me (6'3), you might have some problems with 1st gen mirrors. i do. i see mostly shoulder, and that wasnt cutting it any longer. i had a difficult time finding mirrors for our ride that have a 1" center-to-center mounting. in fact, i couldnt find any at all. several hours worth of research later, and i decided to do this: i used the old mounts, bought some mirrors from Dennis Kirk (after looking through dozens of them!), and hooked em up!. the mirrors came in a pair for 16.00 plus shipping. i like the price as well as, the cool 80's look they have. they are EMGO ROADHAWKS. first, i removed the old mirror from the mount. then, i drilled out the hole to hold the new mirror. fit perfectly, except....you cant fit a 10mm nut in there. so...i drilled out a space for the nut to fit in, being careful to not drill it out fully. i didnt want the nut to spin around. problem solved! a little finessing, some locktite and final adjustments....VOILA! custom mirrors. enjoy! -
I have an MKII. 1) I just like to know if the MKI has a 17mm nut where the black plastic cover goes over the nut at the bent. 2) Also what is the biggest socket that will fit into that same opening ignoring the 17mm nut. On my MKII a Craftsman 19mm socket is the biggest socket that fits into that hole. Appreciate someone providing that information. -
Ok, I was changing my spark plugs and about half way through I noticed a small oblong shaped nut on the floor, I have no clue where it came from. Any ideas?
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Not how I wanted to spend this afternoon and tomorrow. My son Wes, on the right in the picture, complained to his landlord (me) that the hot water knob on his tub was leaking when he turns it on. Ok, simple job, remove the knob and tighten the packing nut, right? NOT!!!!!! First the Phillips head retaining screw is already stripped! Bad sign, to start with. Ok Get the handy dandy new H/F screw extractors. Didn't work, ended up drilling the head off so I can use Vise Grips. You guessed it the stub broke right off flush with the valve. Ok, just remove the valve and go to Ace for a replacement. Again, OH H@LL NO!!! the packing nut has been tightened BEYOND tight and the faucet arrangement is NOT a solid bar. There are separate valves for hot and cold with hoses running to a TEE under the faucet. SOOO, you guessed it, instead of the packing nut coming out, the whole valve turned, loosening the supply line nut, causing a bigger leak. Does this tub have an access cover? Another H@LL NO!!! SOOOO, take a look at the picture to see where I left it at 9:30 tonight.......
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Hey guys, I need your input on an idea I came up with to provide a total seat solution that will allow you to remove both seats without any tools. For some time now several of us have come up with seat nut solutions that allow us to remove the driver seat without any tools. These have ranged from plastic nuts, wing nuts and my solution of using a nylon locking nut pressed and glued into a Press-Fit knob. But, this solution requires some extra assembly work where I have to drill out the center of the knob, tap threads into the nylon ring in the lock nut to the point of just the right friction on the seat bolt, and then glue and press this nut backwards into a press-fit knob, where the glue I use requires overnight to dry properly. Right now I have been selling my seat thumb nuts for $6 which includes postage to anywhere in the US. So for another $2, I could also provide a set of stainless press-fit thumb bolts. And putting these together is just a matter of pressing the stainless allen bolt into the same knurled knob and it's ready to go. So with both of these, you would have a total tool less seat solution. So if you don't mind, let me know what you think of this idea. I have attached a picture of both sets of seat nuts/bolts. Thanks, Rick And FYI 1st Gen owners....I already provide a total tool less seat solution for your bikes -
I needing to locate longer bolts that go thru the bottom of the side bag to accomodiate the spacer and then the washer & nut. I went to McLendons Hardware and they have items that most hardward stores do not carry. They do have the longer bolts in metrics however because there is a nut welded for the original bolt the longer bolt needs to have more threads towards the nut head and these do not. What have others with MKIIs installing Markland hitch done. I will try Home Depot and Lowes tomorrow but I'm not too hopeful.
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Need some proper info on tightening the steering nut such as torque specs, procedures, etc. I installed new races and bearings top and bottom. Im attempting to install the tree and, following the shop manuals tightening procedures, it just seems to be a bit off. It calls for tightening the nuts to 37 ft lbs but when I tried that it tightened up well before it even would have clicked, which it didnt. The whole tree was way too stiff and hard to turn. Now, just to clear stuff up: the races are fully seated, bearings are fully greased with Honda Moly 60 and im using the machined spacer that SkyDoc sold a while ago to replace the rubber "washer". So, any suggestions? -
1989 VR 27,000 miles I just bought it and one of the twist hooks holding the little leather bag to the rear travel bag (trunk) is broken. I've got a replacement part. The screws go into the trunk, where the parts diagram shows there to be a "special nut". Pretty special alright because it is covered with metal frame inside the trunk that the hinges are mounted to as well as other pieces. I don't want to (probably won't) disassemble all that. Has anyone tried to unscrew this piece and get it back together? How did you manage the special nut? Is the nut spot welded to the frame or what? Thanks. Even though I just joined and this is my first post I've been trolling here a while. It's great. http://dl.dropbox.com/u/10552988/IMG_0693.JPG -
In need of 1 handle bar nut cover for 86 Vr. While on a trip last week with the kids, one of my plastic covers that hide the nut to adjust handle bars came flying off. Hoping someone will have this small item, Gladly pay for it and shipping. Thanks Gil
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I kept beating myself up because I know I lubed all lever contact points and fresh fluid. Yadda yadda . well what happened is that the lever was Binding up at the fulcrum. the point where there is a screww with a locknut on the bottom. i always over tighten stuff and by doing so with plenty of grease at the hinge the lever worked wonderfully. Well as the grease wore off the tightened hinge was causing more friction. i loosened the locknut and realized that the lever action was also tightening the bolt/Pin. i backed out the screw greased it all up and locktite the locknut. The nut is not squeezing the hinge point and the locknut will nut work itself loose with extra protection. tigtening that screw and nut too much will cause un needed friction and cause your brake lever to feel tight. Simple lesson learned.
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Just relocated the fuel filter on my 96 Royal Star yesterday after reading several posts on this site. It was an easy job and well worth while for future maintenance. The hardest part of the job was the mounting bolt and nut for the Roll-Over Valve that so many described as a PITA. To resolve this I put the bolt through the hole from the back of the metal bracket and put the nut on the front side with some loc-tite and now have a threaded stud that will stay in place. Just put the plastic holder on the bolt and install a lock washer and another nut. This doesn't have any earth-shattering significance but may be a tip that some might find useful. Happy,safe riding Doug
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Hello folks; I am a new member and need some help. I just purchased a 1988 Venture Royale, approx 57k miles on it. Still in real good condition and runs strong. I have begun to improve on some items, first thing I did was to add the progressive springs in the front forks, what a difference, thank you for the advice. Here is my situation; I hear a rattle noise in the clutch assembly when the bike is on the kick stand leaning to the left. When the bike is straight, it does not seem to rattle. I took off the cover and inspected the clutch assembly. I do not know what it should feel like from factory? My clutch plates attached to the clutch ‘boss’ the whole assembly seem to be a little loose as I am able to wiggle it back and forth slightly. Not sure if there is supposed to be wiggle room? I think that is where the rattle is coming from. I need help in trying to take off the big nut in the center of the clutch assembly? It is a 30mm nut and I have socket to fit it but I do not know how to hold the clutch boss and clutch basket in place to loosen the nut? I am also wondering if there is a washer or bushing behind the clutch boss that may be worn? Or if the 30mm nut is just not tight enough causing the wiggle room that I am finding? Any advice that any of you can give me is greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance for any help. Yours truly, Mark
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OK...so what does the phillips screw (with the nut) do on the brakke lever? Also...how do you adjust it...If I put some clearance (space) between the screw head and the nut...and then turn the screw to tighten...THEY BOTH MOVE. Which means the screw and nut tighten to the same place every time. Any info would be greatly appreciated. Wally
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Lost the left plug on a recent ride. Need an idea to keep it on snug, but yet able to get if off. Any one have an extra one laying around? My picture won't upload. It's the Left black plug that covers the nut that allows the handle bars to be adjusted up and down.
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As so many here, no doubt know, the side cover over the coolant reservoir (and its mate on the starboard side) only have one functional fastener and two rubber mounted "posts". After working all day yesterday on the bike the last thing I had on my to do list was a quick check of the coolant level... I removed both bolts in the side panel, pointless, I know, but no harm, no foul. Then I tried pulling out on the panel, when it did not come out easily, I did not want to bend it so I decided that the lip must be inserted under the center panel (in front of said reservoir) so I removed the top bolt in the center. Can you hear it? "Click, tink,tink"... dang nut fell down behind that panel, but never hit the ground..pulled on the side panel again and it came out which is when I realized that I did not need to take that blasted bolt out to begin with... an hour of looking, rocking, cursing and disassembly later and I heard finally it hit the floor. OK... I walk around the bike and slide the nut up behind that panel, put the screw through the hole.. and drop it again. Can you hear it? "click,click" but not to the floor. Another hour of looking, rocking, and cursing and my wife made me go to bed without finding it "For my sanity" she said. Tonight I go back at it, and after loosening the reservoir that started all this, I see a loose nut lodged behind the bracket that hold the thing into the bike. A couple of quick bolts later and I have it... except it was not the one I dropped Pull the reservoir completely and wedged down in the coil brackets I find my missing nut. :cool10: Now it is all back together... and I have a story to tell... 3 plus hours and 2 loose NUTS! Oh... the coolant was fine.
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The Chrome End Nut on my heal toe shifter keeps loosening. Looking for the right fix. I've attached two pictures. 1st of the Heal Toe shifter and shaft, 2nd the Chrome End Nut. I had this appart this last winter and can't seem to find all the right pieces. My thought would be to get a thin metric nut with nylon locking threads to keep the nut from loosening against the Heal Toe shifter. Then lastly put the chrome end nut on. Open to suggestions.
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With tire changer I made. Have had for long time auto changer simular or same as HF. pic 1 Only permement mod was to weld a 5/8 nut to top. pic 2 Cut hex to fit 5/8 nut in 1/4 plate and welded to old 14-15 auto rim(anti rotation). pic 3 Just set rim over nut on stand. pic 4 Tread 5/8 all thread into nut to tight(notice hole at top for screwdriver shaft). pic 5 Another piece of 1/4 plate with 5/8 hole and 5/8 jam nut secures auto rim to stand. pic 6 Split rubber tube on edge of auto rim protects MC wheel. pic 7 MC wheel placed down all tread. pic 8 5/8 washer and another nut secures MC wheel to auto rim/stand. pic 9 Piece of plastic water pipe protects all thread-threads when tire spoons pried against. pic 10 Final view. pic 11 Also built balancer with lumber. Appears to work, same spot of existing tire/wheel always stops same. Now I just need to commit to do it.
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The Rear Brake Lever has two white washers. Mine shows several bad looking cracks, as if the piecies would fall apart if I took it apart. I looked them up and it looks like the 2 parts I need are the following: It can be found under Stand Footrest. 1) Part 68 - COLLAR 90387-06701-00 2) Part 70 - WASHER,PLATE 90201-100A1-00 I took the part 69 Nut Crown 90176-10073-00 off thinking part 70 would come off easily, but it did not. My question is, has others replaced theirs, or is it something to not bother with. The brake pedel does works fine.
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the item identified as "1. Bolt " lower right hand picture chapter 6 page 8 of the RSTD owners manual does not come out, rather it turns and turns and turns Any suggestions on how to remove this? What is the attachment? a nut? a rubber grommet?
