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Showing results for tags 'notch'.
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New Orleans Saints took the Falcons down a notch at the La. Superdome...... Saints 31 Falcons 27 Geaux Saints.......!!!!!!
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Just an idea I thought I would pass along. Adjusting the passing lamps is such a pain in the a-hold I decided to find an easier way. Checking the alignment and tightening the adjustment nuts with the sealed beams out was the issue for me. They always moved and I could never get them exactly where I wanted them. So I made a tool to help with the job. It is very simple and I made it out of a piece of scrap wood. The notch goes around the headlight and butts up to the passing light housings. The housings will be held pointed straight ahead. Then I use a small level from Harbor Freight for the vertical setting. This makes it easy to keep them both the same when I tighten things up. Mike
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What a good-looking way to demonstrate a patriotic attitude. That is awesome! It may cause some of you to swell up with pride.
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Hi, My 87 VR has had a problem with the rider's headset level adjustment (on the left handlebar). Symptoms: When turned all the way up it sounds fine. I would just use this setting, but it has more engine whine that way. As I turn it down notch by notch, the left speaker goes down more than the right, so it sounds like the music is shifting to the right. The second-highest notch (with the big dot) still sounds good in this regard; the shift is small at that point. Sometimes the sound starts breaking up, like a slightly bad cell phone connection. This is exacerbated by bumps or rough pavement. It never cuts out completely. Again, this does not apply to the max level. Wiggling the attenuator knob does not affect either symptom. Only applies to rider's headset. Passenger's has none of these symptoms. Dash speakers work fine. I don't really understand how these attenuators work. I thought of it as a variable resistor, but that doesn't make sense because if you unplug the attenuator line where it ties into the headset line, the level goes to max. I thought the level would go to zero with a broken circuit. At any rate, I've cleaned that connection and the attenator knob. Clearly something is loose due to the "bump" behavior. Help! Ideas? Anybody seen this before? Is the problem in the knob or its box and circuit card, or in the cable somewhere? Thanks, Jeremy