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Showing results for tags 'neutral'.
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I just solved one problem, here comes another. 99 Venture Royal Star, replaced faulty ignition switch, corrected problem. Now, with the motor running and in neutral, if I place the sidestand down the motor stops. If the clutch lever or the sidestand is in any position, as long as the bike is in neutral no problem. -
My Neutral light doesn't come on and as such I cannot let my bike idle while on the kickstand. This is even IF it is in neutral. Where do I look first?
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Gear position Indicator upgradefor standard Ventures (Non-Royales) I have installed a gear position indicating system on my 1983 Venture. This is the stock model without the dash readout from the factory. This is the second Venture I have owned. The first one was a 1984 Royale. Two of the things I really miss from that bike were the gear indicator and the cruise control. The cruise control is coming later. I have all of the stock parts now needed to install it. I obtained a Neutral Switch Assembly from a 1984 Venture Royal through an Ebay auction for under $10.00. This assembly will exchange with the stock neutral switch assembly from a standard Venture. The neutral switch assembly is located between the back end of the stator cover and the front of the middle drive. It sets back in about four inches and is difficult to see, but is accessible. Removal of the middle drive cover is needed to access. To indicate what gear the bike is in I mounted three LED lights in the gauge cluster above the volt gauge. The left light is lit it indicates 1st gear. The left light and the center lights lit indicate 2nd gear. The center light lit indicates 3rd gear. The center light and right lights lit indicate 4th gear. The right light lit indicates 5th gear. The neutral light works as normal. In neutral none of the LED’s are lit. I could also use five LED’s, using one for each gear, but I like the 3 light system as it is easy to see and once familiar with the pattern, it is very easy to determine what gear I am in with a quick glance down at the gauges. I initially used a red, green and amber LED’s but the green and amber had poor visibility in the daytime. I replaced with all red ones. I also painted the part of the LED’s that are inside of the cluster with black paint to keep the light from the instrument cluster from bleeding through the LED’s translucent housing. I used four diodes and three LED’s from radio shack for the light logic circuit. Four IN4004 rectifier diodes. Price $.99 for two Three Red LED assemblies. Price $1.99 each The new Neutral Switch Assembly has a six pin plug on the end that sets in the same area that the stator and rectifier plugs are near the fuel pump. I had two spare diode assemblies that I have obtained in the past and used the plug from one of these to mate up with the plug on the Neutral Switch cable. I had to take one extra wire connector from the second diode assy. As the diode assembly plug only used five wires. You do not need to use this connector if you do not want to though. I retained this plug as I will be replacing the wiring harness when I install the cruise control. I put the diodes in the circuit near the plug connections on the end of the neutral switch assy. I then ran three 18 gauge wires up to the instrument cluster. I used a trailer four conductor plug I had to make a connection at the instrument panel. I have attached a PDF file with pictures and a wiring schematic to install this. -
So I have what is likely a dumb question, but I'll ask it anyways. My neutral light functions intermittently and it has been this way since I have had my bike. I presume that the switch itself it faulty or gummed up. If a new switch wasn't $30+ (partshark) or ~45+tax from my local stealer, I would just replace it and be done with it. What I would like to know is the following: 1) Can the neutral switch assembly be removed from the bike without loosing a significant amount of oil? 2) Is this switch something that CAN be cleaned and put back in (I have no idea how it works or what it looks like which is why I am uncertain about this. 3) Is it correct to assume that if I remove this puppy I will need to find a new gasket for it in order to reassemble? To be a little more clear about what I mean by it functions intermittently is that sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't (when I am in neutral). There does seem to be a correlation with how warm the bike is but not an absolute since it comes and goes. That is it almost always functions just fine when the bike is cool. After a couple hours of riding it may function or it may not. It doesn't usually flicker on and off or anything it is either ON reliably or it is reliably OFF (again, YES I am in neutral :raspberry:). Anyone else have (and resolve) this issue? Further input? Thanks! Overall this really is not that big of a deal as it doesn't really affect anything other than I cannot leave the engine run and put down the sidestand when it stops functioning. But I am one of those people that likes things to work like they are supposed to and if it is going to be a quick fix, I just assume do it. Also, if the gasket wasn't ~$15 or so I wouldn't question replacing it; but thanks to my local stealership they do not have them in stock and assess a 'special order' fee for any parts they do not have on hand (not to mention their RIDICULOUS markup from the MSRP). Needless to say they get as little of my business as possible. -
When cold,everything works fine...stop for gas and the neutral light goes out and nothing at all completely dead....fifteen minutes later all is well...neutral light comes on and away I go....thinking the neutral sensor? ...is it located behindthe cover on left side with looks like 2 wires on plastic....pain to change?
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Well, it all started towards the end of last season (which was the beginning of October for me because of my wedding and then spinal surgery). I got my progressive springs in, replaced the upper and lower twinkie "o"-rings, re-sealed the output shaft, and flushed and bled the clutch and all brake systems. Towards the end of last season the clutch was disengaging about 1/4" off of the handlebars if not closer. Was having a hard time finding neutral and downshifting. Once I did all of the above maintenance this year (may) I bled the clutch. I had the bike inspected last weekend, passed 100%. Now today, after I visited with my grandmother on the way home I had the similar clutch symptoms as last year (hard downshifting, can't find neutral with the engine running, squishy clutch pull and disengaging right at the handlebar, only now its actually dragging at stop lights and putting a load on the engine. What gives, is my clutch master finally giving out? Can I take this time to upgrade to a newer clutch master cylinder off of a vmax or royale star? Any insight? Thanks. -
I am a brand new rider and just got my first bike. While learning how to ride at a relatively slow speed, I dropped my bike on the left side (into grass). Nothing appears to be broken on visual inspection, however I can't even push the bike when it is in neutral. Does anyone have any ideas as to why I can't push the bike in neutral? It shifts into first and neutral but not into 2nd or above. I am more concerned why the wheels appear to be locked up even in neutral. Feedback is appreciated -
I can start my 84 in 1st gear but cannot get it into neutral! I just repaired the shift pit problem I was having and now no neutral. Hard to get out of the garage in gear.... -
Hey all, I checked out most all the threads on the neutral switch, but didn't find anything that resembles this issue. I had to replace the ignition switch ( main power on contact plate fried). put in a switch from a '78 400 special mounted on the left side of seat. everything worked fine when on the hoist. Set the bike down, tried to start,,, no spark! followed the wiring schematic and traced it back to the neutral switch. will start only when the stand is up or stand down and clutch engaged. Could it be the gear indicator in the Tranny? if so, would it be best to bypass the clutch neutral switch on the bars? I prefer to keep the stand working, and i don't use the clutch to disengage the cruise. Thanks in advance
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Okay, here's a problem that has got me stumped. I was heading out on a trip to New Orleans and back when about a day into the trip at a gas station I noticed a problem. My 2005 RSTD wouldn't start up in gear. That is to say, I have the bike in 1st with the clutch pulled - pushed the ignition and nothing... But if I shift to Neutral and hit the ignition the bike with start, then I can shift into a gear. The trip is now over and my bike still ONLY fires up when it is in neutral. Am I going crazy here? I use to be able to start in gear with the clutch pulled. Any ideas what am I missing here? -
My 83 will not run with the sidestand down with the bike in neutral with clutch out. If I pull the clutch in just a little bit, it will run. It acts this way with two different CMS's and sidestand switches. When I put it in neutral, the light comes on as it is supposed to, so it appears it is getting power through the shifting mechanism. Any suggestions? RandyA -
Hello, I am new to this site and I just recently purchased a 2005 Royal Star Midnight Venture. My issue is that after riding for a little time, the bike seems hard to get into neutral. Does anyone know what could cause this problem? Thanks in advance for any advise.
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The neutral switch on my 87 XVZ1300 is leaking oil. After opening the side cover I see that the wiring is cooked pretty well and I'd like to replace the switch assembly while I'm in there. Have a source for a new old stock 1984 XVZ1200L switch and am wondering if that would work as a replacement? The price is reasonable as compared to the dealers crazy price. If it won't work, does anyone know where I can get a reasonably priced replacement switch. Part numbers on the package of the possible replacement part are 41R-82540-01 A890725C 62 0612-3 -
Dont know how to do a search for this question so will ask instead. Started the royal star up today, pressed the clutch lever there was no tension. Put in gear, it died. Put in neutral and started it again and put in first. The clutch lever did not work. Could not get out of gear to neutral. Had to kill it and roll back and forth to get to neutral. I put in a new clutch kit a few years back, hardly any miles on it. Should I change out the fluid or the engine oil? Any ideas? Jim
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Come on by and watch me.... After spending most of the winter taking on the 2nd gear issue and having lots of ups and downs we finally got the bike back together. Hooked it all up with exhaust etc.. Lots of help from folks on the site.. Like Dingy, Dano and Skydoc. Mostly Marcarl.. Anyhow it started right up BUT it makes an enormous racket while in neutral. Goes through the gears fine and quiet in every gear but in neutral it sounds like a metal playing card on bicycle spokes... Looking like I have to pull the motor again which is a BIG job for my limited skills and then chase down the problem and re-assemble. Down time with not riding is going to kill me... Anyhow does anyone have any suggestions as to what I did wrong? Wayne
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Is it supposed to be possible for the trany to go directly from any gear to neutral? This has happened on this bike about twice a year, where while during somewhat aggressive acceleration, I will suddenly find the bike in neutral, no connection between the engine and rear wheel and the neutral light on the dash is illuminated and the "N" is displayed on the gear indicator. I can understand it happening between 1st and 2nd if you short stroke the shifter since you are going thru neutral on the way to second. But I have also had this happen when going from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th. I look down and the gear indicator shows "N", the green light is on. There are never any kind of grinding or other strange noises other than a very high engine rpm due to lack of connection to rear wheel. Is this an indicator of some major trany problems coming down the line in my near future, or just a glitch in the system. I am posting because this happened 3 times on the way in to work today. All three today were going from 2nd to 3rd, no drive connection, "N" showing and green light on. Lifting up on the shifter again, and it went into 3rd like it should have done the first time one time it went to 2nd. I may be short stroking the shifter a little since I am getting used to some new riding shoes that are thinner on top that what I had before. but I still did not think there should be a full and indicated neutral between 2nd and 3rd or 3rd and 4th.
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Started when I switched dash lights out with LEDs. Suspect issue always there, but unseen with incandescent dash bulbs. I noticed every time I shifted up or down, any gear, neutral light would illuminate for just a fraction of a second. I was at first thinking mechanical, (play in shift shaft against neutral switch) as it seemed to happen just as clutch was re-engaging. Then I remembered that there was a clutch lever switch in the neutral cutout starting circuit. After playing with clutch lever some more, I believe the issue is in this electrical circuit. Does not matter if I shift or not, nor how much I may feather the clutch, always lights at same point just before clutch lever at full release (suspect point for lever switch). Also always just a fraction of a second flash, even if I play aroung the spot of the lever switch, I can not get neutral to stay lit for any more than a flash, unless in neutral of course. Not sure what exactly is happening in the circuit, but as I found out with the RLU dash light, the new LED bulbs will illuminate full bright with less than 2volts stray voltage. Not calling it a problem, and not likely worth time to figure out and correct/bypass/mod..etc. Just interesting fluke from using LEDs.
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Not 100% sure of this, but it seems as it's been the neutral switch all along! Just conducts enough to light the dash but not enough to energise the sidestand relay! All this time it has been on the sidestandwith the neutral light on, but no spark. In order to change the vacuum lines and carb mounts I've had it on the center stand. Finally got done with all that stuff and decided to do some serious electricaql troubleshooting. Measuerd the resistance on the neutral switch to ground and found about 20 ohms or so. Reminded me of when my kickstaqnd switch went out, wasn't open, but had around 6-8 ohms, enough to kill the starting circuit. Soooo, long story short, put the kickstand up, used the clutch to start, and within 30 seconds it was running!! Very rough, but runing. I wonder if 2-3 year old gas has anything to do with it?!!? It has new plugs but they may be somewhat fouled out already. A full tank of High test and a can of seafoam should do something, followed by new plugs again!
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Hi everyone, My 2001 RSV is shifting from neutral to 2nd gear most of the time! When I see that it is in 2nd gear, I down shift one time and it will shift to neutral instead of 1st gear most of the time! I have to go back and forth once or twice to get to first gear out of neutral. Has anyone had this issue? What was the fix? Thanks, Steve -
I've got 34000 miles on my 2004 midnight and I just noticed a new noise coming from the left side of the engine when at idle. Almost like a scraping or squeaking a few times a second but lessens when the clutch is pulled in or in neutral. Could it be the clutch wearing out or maybe just needs adjustment? When switching from neutral into first it grabs a little but always has. Any ideas? Thanks.
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Ok gurus of the 1st Gen VR I need some advice. Recently I am having issues getting the bike to start when the clutch is engaged. Engine does not turn over. Acts like I am trying to start in gear w/o the kick stand or center stand up. If I put it in Neutral it will start sometimes. If the bike is on the center stand in Neutral it starts almost all the time. I am assuming there is a safety interlock somewhere that is out of adjustment but not sure where to start on this one. -
While changing my back tire at MD, I took the time to grease my drive shaft spline. Good thing as it was dry. Now when I stop, it seams like my 88VR slips into neutral from 1st gear more easily than it did before. Before I greased the spline, it seemed to be more "sticky" when shifting into neutral. So, is this just my imagination or could a dry spline cause "sticky" shifting into neutral.
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EDITED FOR CLARITY.....First....I'm talking about my 83 VR, No cruise my bike will only start when in neutral. What a PITA!!!! I have the heel/toe shifter with some "slop" .... it seems really tricky to find neutral. So while everyone else is 1/2 mile down the road...I'm still fumbling trying to get my ride started!:mad: Every other bike I have ever owned would start as long as the clutch in...regardless of if it was in gear or in neutral! The kick stand switch works because if I kick it into gear when the stand it down it shuts the bike down. The stand indicator on the LCD screen doesn't show but that graphic does show when it cycles thru when I first turn on the key. Is there some mod I can do to let it start even if the bike is in gear as long as the clutch is in? (and side stand up) I would hope to still allow the neutral indicator to operate. I"m not real good at electrics...so if there is any fix...I would appreciate any explaination to be in simple terms for us simple people. Thanks in advance!
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I'm not sure if I shorted something out or what, but when in Neutral the green light goes on, but the gear indicator still reads 1. Do I need to replace a fuse or something. Just a few days ago it would show N like it is supposed to. Thanks, Todd -
It may have been there all the time .When starting up in the morning and after a ride, in neutral it sounds like a fan belt squeaking in a cars engine? Any ideas
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