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Showing results for tags 'needle'.
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i made a short video when i was setting and checking the float levels on a set of 28mm carbs and wrote of how i did it for some of the guys on delphi forum and thought i would post it here too.there's a way i do it and it has worked out good on the last several sets im have fixed for others and redid mine while i had them off, all you have to do is when you have the carbs torn down, put all the float and needle assembly together, turn them upside-down so the float is up, jiggle the carbs so the floatsts bounce around a little so they are seated in place and not binding. while you still holding them upside-down, hold them right in front of you and look to see if both floats are level with each other, several i have done has been uneven, if they are uneven, take two small pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold the arm near the middle where the needle valve is and use the other pair to bend easlily the arm on the far float to equal level, make sure to hold needle valve off the seat so it not down and possillely mess it up or take it out and bend it and put back in. after you are sure they are pretty level across the 2 floats then make sure the needle valve is set down on seat and measure from the edge of bow to the top of the floats and it should be between 8 to 9 mm,(i try to get mine nearer to 9mm). i usually check it on both sides of the set of floats just to be sure i've got them level as i can. checking them out the way the book says to do it is way too hard fro me to do. one of the guys near me wants to take his down and check them out on his 98 so i may try to do a video of it as there will be 2 of us.i'll let y'all know when we do it. try this link, let me know if it works. -
I want to shim the carb neeldes on my 2006 venture. Question is, when you add a shim to the needle, does it go under the c-clip on top of the teflon ring or do you slide it up the needle under the teflon piece? Thanks,
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I had to disassemble (again) the carbs off of this doggone 83 I have been messing with. Upon reassembly I found I am now missing the idle mixture screw. It was there when I took the carb apart, but have somehow lost it. I have the small spring but not the needle itself. I just spent about 2 hours looking all of the garage for this needle but with no luck. My reason for posting is to find out if anyone knows where one can be purchased. I just checked a couple websites and I don't even see this carb part listed. Or, if anyone has not they are willing to sell, I would be more than happy to buy it from you. I appreciate any help I can get with this matter. Thanks -
Looking at some new needle sets and was surprised at the price difference between genuine parts (like $42) versus aftermarket($17). Any thoughts on the use of one vs the other in engine parts like needle sets?
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Recently I had posted a thread about needing a temp gauge. In True Venturerider.org nature I received two by mail for free. As much as I appreciate the response and generousity of our members (Thanks, ISUTLEY & MUFFINMAN), I only needed one. So, the extra one is available to anyone that needs it for free. As well any of the extra MKI and MKII parts I have laying around and don't need, the selection of parts are a varied assotment. Just PM if there is anything you need and I'll look and see if If I have one laying around. But, I did have a question that I had posted on the earlier thread that no one responded to and since I am still curious I am going to ask again. But actually, I received a good temp gauge today from ISUTLEY (Thanks Les) and was able to compare his good one to my bad one. On a good one, or, one which has never had the needle pin removed from, there is a slight retraction action on the needle that returns the needle to the cold position when the sensor registers cold. On my bad one there is no retraction action. I'm not sure what causes that retraction action rather it be spring loaded or a reaction due to temp but it is deffinately there and neccessary. Does anyone know what causes the retraction action on the needle? Curious minds want to know. -
Reassembling the 87VR XVZ1300 for mayby the 40th time, I'm trying to address and correct all known bugs the bike has had. My current road block is the temp gauge in the gauge cluster it does not work. Or, should I say it does not work correctly. Meaning that it is not calibrated right. Cold the needle is halfway up the scale. At normal operating temp the needle is pegged off the hot scale. Does anyone one have an old set of gauges laying around with a known good temp gauge the could part with, sell or trade?
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hey i have just one valve needle that isnt working anyone know where i can get just the one needle valve? edit: scratch that i fixed the old one
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Anyone know if you can buy the Carb Needle set for the XVZ1200 Venture Royal 1984 model. I've got the original set of carbs which need to be reconditioned, always nice to have a spare set. -
What is the 'recommended' position of the E clip on the carb diaphragm needle valves? Needle valve is similar to one on bottom of attached picture, not exactly but close. I am getting these carbs closer on Speedy, but I stil have a slight popping below 3,000 RPM's & gas mileage is somewhat lower than expected. About 25-30mpg range. Carbs are 35mm mikunis with stock VMax jets in. 150 mains, 90 PAJ2, 170 PAJ1 & 37.5 pilot. Gary -
It's been a while since I have had a tach on the bike so to me the #'s are a bit high, but could be wrong. 45 mph, 5 gear, 2k 50 mph, 5 gear, 21k (small gap between the 2k bar and the needle) Thanks
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im looking for a cross reference part number for my needle valves and seat seals for my 05 rstd... mikuni makes carbs for a lot of different bike manufactures in cluding harley. i cant get them through any yamaha srvc cntr, they all tell me they are 5 -7 days out and im leaving for yellow stone tomorrow ( supposed to ), and i live in michigan. my thinking is that another srvc cntr has the parts i need but i dont know what part # to ask for or what bike ( other than mine ) has these carbs. how do i get this fixed by tomorrow so i can leave at 3pm????
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I have consulted the WS manual and found that the CV join can be pressed apart and that there are 4 needle bearings in it. I now have bought a (-83) XZ550 with an extra engine for nearly bicycle money. The CV joint (I assume it's a similar construction, only smaller) flexes nicely in one direction but not in the perpendicular ditto. I suspect one of the needle bearings to be shot (rusty). Has anyone any experience of servicing the CV joint?
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Oy. A brief moment of carelessness and I snapped the end of my tach needle off. I already had it removed from the tach shaft (the hardest part), too. Does anybody have a nonfunctional tach (or speedometer, for that matter) they don't mind either sharing the whole thing with me or sending me the needle from? It's kind of a pain to pop off but it will come with a little coaxing. I will later reveal my project if I can score a new needle. -
and I'm not ready. We got about 12" yesterday. Got most of the driveway cleared and the snowblower broke. I had to order a new needle bearing and bushing for for the chain drive. Amazing that nobody stocks parts for a 40 year old John Deere snow thrower any more. Now it is snowing again so I just hope we don't get too much. I'm guessing it will probably be a week before the parts arrive. Send me a needle bearing for this if you happen to have one in your pocket.
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Had both knees shot up yesterday with Cortisone. Usually Erin, the PA at the ortho center does a great job injecting me but this time they were so inflamed that she said it was like pushing that 3" needle through leather. ou know its pretty bad when you actually look forward to these shots. Add another Lap Band fill with another needle to the belly and I feel like a human pin cushion. But im good to go for a few months anyway.
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So....if you remove the insert from the wheel can the needle bearings fall out or are they caged to prevent this happening? Thanks...............
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Well I'm in the process of checking the sync of my carbs. I have vacume dial type gauges. 1) First I got her warmed up good to the point the fans kicks on 2) next I removed the rubbers tips from the intake. 3) hooked up the hoses from the gauges to the intakes. Here's where I'm lost. The needle on the gauges will not settle they flop back and forth like a hummimg bird in flight. What should I do of look for!!
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Jrichard rolled up yesterday and spent the night after helping me but the bike back together (new tire). Even had a scary and embarrassing moment when we thought a needle injector for the grease gun snapped off while shooting some Moly 60 into the rear wheel bearings. After carefully prying off the rubber seal and poking through the bearing assembly looking for the needle we discovered that the needle didnt break off, only pushed back into the grease gun. Ok, I was the guilty party...so shoot me. But it was a relief that it didnt fall into the bearing basket. Got the wheel up, put the stock mufflers back on. The open HD muffs were beginning to drive me crazy. Took the bike for a ride and with the stock muffs it sure felt more responsive. Also dumped some star tron gas treatment in and mileage increased by 25 milles on the tank. Got up this Am and we all (J, Jean and myself) headed down to Daytona, riding A1A down to hook up with Coach and his wife from Ohio (Ron and Linda Wise) and their friends from NY, George and Jacki on a HD trike. We headed to US-1 Restaurant (formerly the Sly Fox) for some good eats and some good reminiscing then headed out for different venues. J and I headed to Main Street which was filling up. We parked and started walking down Main St when we saw an RSV. I asked who owned it and whether he was a member here and he looked at me funny and said he remembered me from when I synced his carbs. It was Mainiac. Small world. Gave a card to another RSV rider so maybe he will check out the site. We strolled around a little then J went off to parts unknown and we headed home, back up A1A. Stopped in Flagler Beack for some Working Cow ice cream and enjoyed the ocean view and perfect 80 temps. Couldnt have asked for a nicer day.....too bad, back to work tomorrow.....
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Ok gentlemen, I'm back for more assistance. After trying every non-invasion thing I could to get my one carb from leaking, I had to tear it down. I pulled the float bowl cover off and the float looked good and moved (by hand easily) and seemed to engaged the needle well. I took the float out and the needle. Needle is brand new and looks it. I don't see any nicks or tears in the rubber. Soo.... what test or experiment can I do to test the bouancy of the float. I have two others left over from the rebuild that I could swap. Also..... does anyone know if there are different float needle sizes between the V-max and Venture. A V-max guy rebuilt my carbs. I'm not sure if there are but I suppose if the rubber tip was slighter smaller that could cause it to not seat properly. From a probably standpoint, what are the odds that the seat is bad? (I've posted a few other times with the leaking carb (from overflow). I'm pretty convinced that it's not debris. I've drained all the bowls several times, taking the fuel line off and turned the bike on and off so gas pumped into a glass jar. Gas in all circumstances looked clear. Thanks as always. Bill
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83 Venture, Cylinders #2 and #4 dead and cold to touch, even after ride. Verified good spark. Plugs come out very wet. Suspected very rich flooding cylinder preventing fire. Float fuel levels verified good. Sync perfect. MPG=25-28:(. 1/2 tank strong seafoam run thru. Carbs rebuilt by me but can't confirm I did not do something wrong. Installed skydoc17 needle shim mod. Today confirmed carbs #2 and #4 only, dumping too much fuel. At idle, placed tip of shop towel into throat against main fuel needle for just a second. Towel tip comes out wet in carbs #2 and #4 and dry in #1 and #3. Thought I could see fuel coming from jet and along needle, and confirmed with above towel method. Now I am 99.9% positive excessive fuel is preventing cylinder #2 and #4 to fire. Fuel float levels are correct, but during operation carbs dumps too much fuel out the main fuel jet, even during idle when main jet should be completely closed off. 1. What could cause this? 2. What to inspect? 3. How to repair? 4. How to pretest after repair on the bench? pics not very good but first Pic, tip of towel in throat second pic tip wet
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While I realize there have been about a zillion and a half threads about people 'realizing' that their speedometer calibration is off, using a speed-o-healer, ignoring it all together, etc etc. I had an interesting realization last night while I was avoiding being pulled over puttering back across Vancouver. Last Christmas I received a Ram-Mount for one of the GPSes I have. I have now used it twice (both times in Vancouver) Partially because I have it so why not, and partially to make sure that I know how fast I am going in the appropriate units. As we all [most likely] know, the MPH side of the speedometer (on U.S. models at least) is off by 5-10% depending on who you ask, where you check it and most importantly whether you are using your turbo attachment or not. All kidding aside, I have found now through a speed range of ~10 to ~60 mph (10 to 100 kph) checked at intervals that were distinctly marked (ie 20, 40, 60, 80, 100) I found that with the speed held reasonably constant the GPS read a speed that matched exactly (obviously within the error of the width of the needle). Now this had me curious. Upon closer inspection I found (on my bike, which I presume is the same on others) that the MPH scale is not aligned properly with the KPH scale which contributes to the incorrect speed indication. Now before you say 'oh that guy is an idiot, of course it isn't perfectly aligned because the needle has to point towards the numbers and being that the radii of the curvatures of the speed range indicators are diffrent and the 'needle' points radially outward but is not a perfect , of course they wouldn't look visually aligned'. I solved this issue by looking at how fast my indicated speed was in KPH both on GPS and on the speedometer and verified that while the reading in KPH was correct, the needle was pointing to the wrong point on the MPH scale. So, how is that for a fun fact? By the way, I am in Canada where they use KPH -- which is why I have the GPS set to KPH and am paying attention to that. Anyhoot, just thought I would share my findings while I try to wake up enough to get some work done.
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I have a 1983 venture on one of the carbs a lot of gas comes out of jet needle hole can some one tell me how to stop this
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Can anyone inform me about the Needle Shim Mod for a 1300 First Gen?
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HI everyone, I need some help. Today my speedo quit during a ride on my 2001 RSV. The LCD numbers are still there but the needle does not move up as the bike accelerates. Can some help me out please. Thank you. Bert ( NEWFIE )
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83 xvz12 idle ~1100 #1 balanced at about 4-6 in mercury #3 balanced at about 18-20 in mercury idle screw maxed out up When trying to bring #3/4 down to match #2, can't keep it running, drops idle Needs #1/2 brought up with idle screw, but already max up-screw limit Carbs torn apart and cleaned, new gaskets,orings- but missed main fuel needles at the time, recently found it after removing pressed in needle caps, screws were factory? set under caps a mix from 1/2 to 2-1/2 from bottom, reset all a 2 turns #2 cylinder has less compression than other 3, 150 psi vs 180 psi also carb#3 leaking small drip from top overfill drain Suspect I need to pull carbs again due to #3 fuel leak, and re-adjust float, and clean out needle ports I missed, but not sure that this will let me lower idle screw, while raising #2 vacum? Open up #2 needle for more fuel? Disreguard #2 and match other 3 due to lower compression on #2?? Suggestions???
