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Showing results for tags 'module'.
Found 25 results
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I have just recieved the Dyna 3000 ign mod, kit # D3K7-3 from ATV Galaxy. My question is, has anyone else installed this module and if so are there any particular settings for the 8 pins on the back. I see the ones for the rev limiter ( it recomends 5000rpm) but do I need to touch the advance and retard pins. Any instruction/advice would be appreciated. Thanks Ian
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I was told that my 87 Venture Royale needs a new brain. I don't know what the central processor is called, it's some sort of black box. Supposedly it controls much of the motorcycle's electronics. Does anyone know what I'm talking about? Where can I get one?
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DRS Fabrication has designed a durable metal, powder coated FRONT LED light mount, utilizing existing Royal Star Venture bolt holes. This is mounted low, away from the headlight and creates an enourmous amount of road illumination, as well as attractability. Combined with the Whelen LED Flash module, this allows many different, unique attention getting flashes or always-on setting. I have used a 27 watt LED light on each side of the front fender. It makes a magnificant light. The nice thing about using the Whelen LED Flash module it has the ability to a reduced light setting as well as a high light setting. The lights range from $25 on up depending what wattage, brand, size, shape, etc., each. I've seen the module as inexpensive as $33. The mount is priceless. If you're interested in getting a price on the mount, contact Dennis @ 814-360-9233 (Pennsylvania); a 2006 Royal Star Venture owner. -
Howdy folks. I am in the process of trying to identify an intermittent problem with my bike. unfortunately I think this may end up including needing to replace the ignition module. I have found some form Pinwall (and another member has offered me one that he purchased used) and I am aware of the Dyna 3000 as a replacement. I don't really have any interest in doing the Dyna replacement and my preference would be for a unit that has a reasonably well known history (ie out of someone's bike that got upgraded to a Dyna unit or something like that). So my question is does anyone have a spare module out of their RSV that they took out for the purpose of replacing the current one with a dyna or whatever? If so, would you be willing to part with it, for how much, etc etc. Thanks a lot!
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Looking for a radio controll module. The one under the front fairing.So if anyone is parting out a crashed bike or replacing their radio with something else please let me know.I saw pinwall had one for $300 was hoping to find one for less than that.
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The other day while I had time off I was getting my 86 ready to go on the trip and noticed the front brake signal was not working but the back brake was so OK it is an 86 so I went on line and ordered another one. Today I went to go for a ride to my dads and the back brake lights were not working, went through all the fuses and they were OK so I went for a little ride turned on the cruise control and tapped on the front and back brakes and they shut off the cruise which tells me both switches work, now is there some kind of brake module ? I start m y 12 hr nights today so I can't mess with the bike for a couple of weeks if anyone has an idea I would appreciate it.
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Grab a beer boys ....this is a long one. Ok ...two beers. Ok, here's the problem. A '95 Lincoln Towncar 4.6. About 2 years ago I went to leave for work and the car would crank like crazy but no spark. Checked battery and it was well charged and everything seemed to be fine except it would not fire. I tried everything I knew about Lincolns and finally had it towed to my oldest friends shop. He is the ONLY person I have trusted to work on my vehicles. Honest and straight up shop that does what is needed and no screwing around. His service staff is top notch and well trained. So he has it for the day and calls and says it's fixed. The ignition module was bad. That was all. Everything else was fine. Only $240.00 for the module and $75.00 for the tow. Picked it up and it was fine. Started great as it always had. Then......13 months later......it does it again. Same trouble shooting process and the tow to his shop. The ignition module was found to be bad again. Plugged in a new one and it fired right up. But he did go to bat for me and got the first module replaced by warrenty. It was out by a month but they covered it. I asked him to keep the car for another day and do a full trouble shooting rundown on it to see if he could find if there was something causing the modules to fail. He did.....and found no problems at all. Then.........6 months later it did it again. He had a mechanic run a new module to where I was 30 miles away and we plugged it in and it fired right up. Again. And this time the module could not be covered under warranty. Crap. Another $240.00. So back to his shop and we spent an evening going through the cars system. Had a couple of his techs hanging around as they were curious, and I was holding the beer cooler. The only thing that seemed to keep coming up was a possible problem with excessive resistance causing the module to fail. Most likely culprit....the plug wires. We tested each and every wire and found none showing to be bad. I replaced them anyway. So some time passed. Until last Sunday. And again...same story. Rerun. Ok, so it's sitting in my garage being defiant. Much like myself at this point. I've talked to my buddy and and his techs and they are baffled. In doing my research and reading the service manuals I know the computer in the car needs 10.5 volts to operate, but they usually won't act up until 9.5 to 10 volts. I've owned several Lincolns in the past. This much I know. LOL! Going back to the battery I made sure I've got that available. When cranking I'm only dropping to about 11.9 at the lowest when I've been cranking quite a few times. Battery is being kept at full charge during all this. I'm not making any progress guys. I'm willing to drop another $240.00 for another module IF I know it will last. There has to be something causing this to fail....and it seems to be happening more often. And besides that....it has rained every danged day since it quit starting. The bike looks like hell. That has to stop. I need some advice. Thoughts?....ideas?.....advice?.....magical cures?....donations to buy another car? Dancing in the rain...... Mike
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I tried to order this part from Yamaha and they said that this part is no longer available. I'm needing the small black washer (wierd sharpe) that slides over the threaded portion of the chrome bar of the entire radio module. The chrome bar is what you grip in order to lift the entire radio module out of the faring. I have an 89 VR. I'm hoping that someone might have an extra radio module unit that they are using for spare parts. -
Sam Almgren came over from Ga today to try and help me fix my dim highbeam. Thanks Sam!!. Alas we (he) had no luck! Actually Sam seems to think the computer module has a problem since I don't have 12 V going to the high beam. Anyone have one of them dar puppies laying around? In the absence of that, a Mk1 dash with 30K miles? After that, anyone interested in disecting the old one or trying to fix it (Dingy?)?
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i have an '07 RSTD and was wondering if anyone out there is currently using the dynatek 300 - pt# D3K7-5? what are the pros & cons for this module? where is the best place to purchase? any issues with installation?
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After all the probs I had on the bike this summer with electricals on the engine, I opted to pick up a new ignition module (D3K) just for the peace of mind kinda thing.. Erhm can someone point out as to where this is located on the bike? None of the docs I have even mention it let alone say where it is.. Thanks in advance..
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have started the chroming on my nomad. so far i have added a cobra fi 2000r module, handle bar switch for the highway lights. venturerider.org logo on the windshield, and have some goodies on the way. the injection module really made this bike come alive. next i'm trying to redesign the exaust to get a good big twin sound with a pleasant sound level. then i am going to design and machine a billet aircleaner with minimum restriction and good looks. the feds really put the hurts on this bike with the pollution standards. it was a real pooch when i got it. it was so lean on the low end that it reguired 90 plus octane fuel with 9 to 1 compression. next tank will get 89 octane, and then maybe 87 octane., no pinging so far. st. jude here we come, first official road trip. sure like this bike alot. it is almost at the top of the list with my all time favorite v-max.
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The ignition module I got isn't the right one so I'm not sure if I have other problems or not! It isn't running as smooth as it should but it could be a fouled plug or something. The problem may be a different response curve for the timing as well due to the diferent modsule. I stripped the module out of the '85 and found out it is also the different module, the same as the one I acquired. The good (?) news is that the module from the '85 is bad, and that's why it wouldn't start many years ago, so I can use my newly acquired one on that one! Sooo, the module I need is a TID14-28 41R10. The one I have is a 41R11 TID14-34. It seems to me there was a member rebuilding these modules. Anybody remember who?? I have a couple needing fixin' but I supose I could take them apart and replace the glass diodes myself. Anybody out there have the module I need for sale for a reasonbable price?? The last one I saw had a buy it now price of $99 and was around for several weeks before someone finally bought it. I have bought them of ebay as cheap as $45 but that was a couple of years ago... -
Goldie is running, or rather ran for a few minutes, then the ignition module bit the big one!! Now I have 2 dead units and one that runs on 2 cylanders... I am in dire need of a module ASAP! Don't want to miss MD because of it. Anybody got a spare to part with?? I'm going to check the schematic to see if there is any reason that I should be blowing them. The only thing changed was the pickup coils but I can't see what they would do to cause the unit to self destruct. It did run fine while it ran...
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:(There have been numerous discussons about radio problems. Mine is apparently not resolved with the usual cleaning and greasing of the connections under the faring. My issues seem to be at the "brain" as some have called it. It used to jump all over the place for no ryme or reason and now it is just locked in on one station and only the volume control works. No other feature works. My questions is this. Has anyone had to buy just the control module with the LED readout, or just the inside "brain"? If so, how much was it and do you have to buy it from a dealer? I'm concerned this is going to cost a real bundle. Any comments are certainly welcome. Thanks
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I am new to this site but find it a wealth of information. Thanks to all Here's my poblem I recently got a 1983 Venture I posted the Vin# here last week and I think it is the first off the line. but thats not my problem. when I got it it had set for about 3 years. It runs OK and looks good but after my inspection I decovered no brakes on the rear. so I ordered a rear master cylinder and last night rebuilt the master. all went well lines bleed out and now have good brakes. I thought while it is in the shop I should change the oil and filters at the same time. I drove the bike in the shop it started and run good. after I changed the oil it would not fire up. It turns over good, it's getting gas I though that it may be a stuck switch so I traced all the wires to the switches sidestand, clutch, neutral switch even the emergency stop switch all check out and still no fire I removed all the fairing and checked the wiring to the TCI module all looked ok to but just no spark. as a way to test the TCI module i removed the Kill wire black/white stripe wire check power in and ground all ok . with the kill line off the bike should fire up and run. No luck on fire. It looks like the TCI module just went bad but before I spend $900 on a new TCI mod I would like to here for some of you. Is their a way to test the TCI mod to be sure if it is ok or not. Is their something that I am missing that will keep it from starting As I said it turns over ok just no spark. but i drove it in the shop any comments you have would be welcomed I need to order the TCI module before Tuesday to have it by the end of the week. Thanks for the input
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i've got an 07 venture that i tried to install the tri-star brake/running light module on. i found a harness under the seat that had 5 wires in it, blue,yellow, brown,dk. green and black......when testing these wires they corresponded to the tailight (blue), ...brake light (yellow),.... LT. turn (brown), ....Rt. turn (Dk. green) .....and ground ( black).....i made all the connections, tried it, everything worked.....turned the bike off...key off........and the rear turn signals were on, not blinking...just on...............is this the right harness......anyone have any experience with this module.........i spent all day on this...even went down to yamaha, got yamaha connectors so i could wire the module and plug it in....(i know how to disconnect the wires from the plug)........so i'm gett'in frustrated.....i have the yamaha service manual, and, i gotta say, it's on of the worse service manuals i ever seen when it comes to the wiring diagrams..........
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I need an electronics expert. As I look at the wiring diagrams and the ignition modules for the 1st gens, it looks like there is a separate pickup coil for each cylinder. And as I look at those things on the 2nd gens, I see only two wires for the pickup coil. It looks like there is only one pickup coil. So how does the ignition module know which spark plug to fire?
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what y'all think ? hot side in for winter or cold side in for summer ?? QK66: Peltier Module http://store.qkits.com/images/QK66.jpg CLICK FOR MORE... One side heats and the other cools when up to 13V DC is applied to this module. Maximum of 59 deg. C. Draws up to 4.4A. Make your own portable cooler or hand warmer. No moving parts, fumes or circuit. Dimensions: 40 x 40 x 4 mm CLICK FOR MORE... Price: http://store.qkits.com/images/usa.gif $14.95 Special: 10-49 items at $13.45 each Quantity: QK66: Peltier Module
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I am about to buy a Back-off brake light modulator and discovered that Signal Dynamics makes a large number of lighting controllers. http://www.signaldynamics.com/lighting_control.htm I found a few things to note: There are two version of the Back-off modulator. Only the XP version is made to work with Incandescent Lighting, LED Lighting or a combo of both! (MikealiasMike - this may be why your LED trailer lighting wasn't working so well when we installed the non-XP back-Off module on your bike.) The have a module to help with fast flashing LED lights. For those that want to get real fancy they have Wig-Wag module and a self-canceling turn signal module for those that do not have this feature.I was surprised to see just how many options they offer for improving motorcycle lighting.
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Well this has been going on for a month or so. My onboard computer that shows the checklist when you start the bike up goes on and off on me when am I am riding which causes the bike not to show the temp guage,if it's charging,how much gas,no blinkers,no brake lights,and no dash lights. It has never done this before and the only thing we did is Dana resodered the indicator module for the cold broken soder spots. Deacon Dan has the same 86 venture as mine and his has the same problem his checklist comes up but not all the time his also goes on and off. To add more his fuse box is real hot to the touch. I got the spare module from Dana and put it on mine and it never cut off but it gave a false reading on the gas amount and the gas picture would stay up. I just think it's wierd that the 2 bikes have the same problem. Oh yeah then I put the one that we got from Dana that I had put in my bike to test and it had the same problem it had in mine false gas reading and gas light staying on. Also the computer would come on and go through the check list but would come off and on when it felt like it. So does anyone know or have an idea whats going on with 2 bikes having the same issues to the panel cutting on and off for no apparent reason? Myself,Dana and Deacon Dan are lost we think it might be the control module not sure whats it is called but does the checkup on the items when you turn the bike on. I was thinking that might be it but why does both cut off and on for no reason. Any ideas or if you selling a comp module well 2 of them let me know. Meatloaf:sick:
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Installing a Dyna 3000 module in a Royal Star Venture Thanks to Scott (Tartan Terror) for this great article. Remove seat form bike. After you do this you will need to remove the battery. Remove the cables first then remove the strap hold down. Be careful not to touch terminals together or they may spark. Also be careful to make note of where any accessory wires you have installed are routed. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image002.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image004.jpg Remove the battery tray next. You will need to remove the two 12 mm bolts in front of the tray. Remove the positive and negative wires from the clips that hold them and gently lift the tray out of the way. For those of you that have other items behind the tray be careful not to pull that out and lift the tray out. With the tray out of the way you will see the module standing vertical held by two nuts against the front wall of the battery compartment. Loosen the wires so you can lift the module up and out. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image006.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image008.jpg Next get your new module ready to install. The Dyna 3000 module has many settings so read the directions carefully and select the setup that suits how you intend to use it. I set mine to setting 3 and set the Rev limiter to 7250. This is done by setting the small white switches to the appropriate on and off pattern. Setting the switches will change the advance of the ignition and raise the rev limiter to a higher level. Stock is 6000 rpm but this is far below the Red Line. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image010.jpg After Setting the switches remove the old module by removing the three connectors and plugging them into the appropriate sockets. You can’t mix them up as they will only go one way. http://www.venturerider.org/dyna/image012.jpg Bolt the new module in the location that the old one came out of and put the battery tray back in. Once again remember to put your cables and wires back the way they came out and then install the Battery. Place the seat back on and you are ready to go. One thing I noticed is that after the new module was in I needed to adjust the idle as now it seemed to rev higher. If you need to this the knob is on the right side of the bike near the back carburetor under the tank. Now all you have to do is Ride it like you stole it.
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Shopping for parts --looks like there is no Kury PANACEA tail light system for the Venture? Anyone have the Kisan Trailbalzer or BACK OFF module for your brakes? Thnx DREBBIN
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Can anyone tell me how to get to the CB module under the trunk? I want to check the connections on the module and it looks like I'm going to have to take the trunk off to get to the module and connections. Is this right? Thanks Peeps.
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Mic-Mutes Installation Mic-Mutes is a product designed and marketed by VentureRider member Bill Morphy. This is a fantastic product and one of the best things I have done to my audio system. The one thing I have always disliked about the intercom system on the RSV is the fact that the mic is always on. In order to communicate with my wife, I need to set the IC volume on at LEAST 14 and that is borderline if you are in a noisy area or running at freeway speeds. Any higher though and the wind noise picked up by the mics is really a bother, not to mention that it severely degrades the music quality. Mic-Mutes solves this problem with a totally integrated system which allows you to toggle the mics on and off by using the push to talk buttons for the CB radio. Operation is very simple...just press and release either button (front or rear) to turn both mics on. To turn them off, just press and release either button again. To use the CB...simply toggle the mics on and then press to talk as you normally would. After using this system, I can honestly say that no RSV should be without it. This is a quality product at a fair price and not difficult to install. The hardest part of the installation is stripping the bike down and getting it ready. This is not difficult but a bit time consuming. You will need to split the fairing, remove the seat, remove the gas tank. The Mic-Mutes comes with a small black module that will need to be placed either under the seat or near the battery area. I placed the module just behind the battery. Look carefully and you'll see it in this picture. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic10.jpg The wiring is pretty simple and mostly plug and play. Under the rear seat, on the left side, you will see a 5 pin din connector. Simply unplug the connector and plug one of the included headset adapters in line with the separated plugs. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic1.jpg Now you will do the same thing with the 5 pin din connector inside the fairing. There are 5 of these connectors inside the fairing, you want the one that is marked with the red tape. Simply unplug that connector and plug the other headset adapter in line as you did on the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic2.jpg Integrated into each headset adapter, you will see the telephone type jacks. There are two control module cables that come out of the black module. You will want to run the long one to the front jack and the short one to the rear jack. The best way to run the cable is along with the other wiring going to the front of the bike. As you can see in the following picture, there is a guard over the top of the wire way that you will want to remove to run the wires to the front. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic3.jpg After the wires are run, just plug them into the jacks. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic4.jpg http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic5.jpg Now that the headset adapters are installed and connected to the control cable, we have to connect the module to the passengers audio controller. This too is done under the rear seat. On the right side of the bike, near the trunk, is a 6-pin connector. Mic-Mutes supplies a tap slice connector to make an easy splice to this wire but I prefer soldered connections. Whichever way you decide to do it, you want to splice the yellow wire from the Mic-Mutes module to the green wire of the bikes connector. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic6.jpg The next picture shows my connection soldered. Then just tape it up well and this part is done. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic7.jpg The last step is to connect the power to the module. Most of you know that there is an unused power circuit under the seats of these bikes. It is located on the left side of the battery on the left side of the bike. It is simply two wires with a white connector which is not connected to anything. This is the easiest place to connect the power to the Mic-Mutes module. Again, Mic-Mutes supplies tap splice connectors for this splice but I chose to just cut the factory white connector off and use butt splices to connect the power. Very simple. http://www.venturerider.org/micmute/pic8.jpg That's it folks. Just put everything back together and test. Mine worked perfectly and does exactly what it is advertised to do. Try it, you will like it. For more information or to order, check it out at http://mic-mutes.com/
