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Showing results for tags 'meter'.
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Another post jogged my memory to ask about this. I notice on my '06 that when the low fuel indicator comes on, the mileage indicator changes to the trip meter. Is this normal? Can it be stopped? Does anyone else have this happen and do you find it a good thing?
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OK, here's an odd problem on my RSV. A few weeks ago, I noticed that my clock had been reset. I thought I may have pressed the buttons the wrong way when scrolling through the trip meter, so I forgot about it. Went to use it today and noticed that it showed the odometer instead of my trip meter, so I selected the trip meter and, lo and behold, both of them were at 0 KM (They were at 91 KM when I turned it off yesterday) and the clock had been reset. I didn't have the battery tender on so nothing has touched the bike. Anybody ever have this problem before? Andy
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My 84 has been running great all summer long, until last week. It has sat for about a week, due to rain and the like. Pulled the Tender, and it fired right up. The LED Volt meter did not lite and the "Battery" showed in the bikes display window. The bikes volt meter was in the middle of the scale. The bike ran and idled smoothly. I reved the engine several times nothing changed. LED volt meter was still out and the "battery"lite was on. After about 10 minutes running, the volt meter fired up and settled into 14 volt charge indicator and the battery lite went out. Could this be a bad LED Volt meter? Could it be shorting and causing the battery lite to come on? Is it a bad battery? Stator? It does something to ya riding a bike and the red light is flashing and the battery box is on. It sat for three days and today it did the exact same thing. :detective:Does anyone have any ideas. Saddle_Bag -
When I was installing a digital amp meter I read one members reason to installing the meter directly to the battery by passing the ignition key. His reason was so he could check the meter reading occasionally during the non riding season, incase the battery was not charging he could get a replacement. Well I did that also, but during yesterday's ride I came across another good reason. Rode for an hour and all was fine. Then I noticed that my tack needle was flipping back and forth. Hmmm I thought a tack cable, no it has got to me an electronic gage. Then I noticed that my amp meter was reading 12.4 so I shut my driving lights off. Went to 12.6. Now during the 1st hour I noticed that with out the driving lights my amp reading was 14.1 and with my driving lights it was 13.8. Also the OEM volt gave was down also. Soon I was feeling the engine slightly cutting out but not too bad. I was about 5 miles from the next town. The temp gage was fine. So I figured I would try to make it into town rather than making an emergency stop and take a chance the engine would die and then not get it started again. Got into town and the slower my speed the rougher the engine ran. came about 20 feet from the parking spot and all electric went out and engine died. Scratch my head. Now let me see, last night I added driving lights, rotor lights, front fender lights, and rear trunk guard lights, and the amp gage. Used relay for the driving lights, all the other lights were LEDs except the light that goes around the circumference of the roto, so I did not use relay for them. Used a lighted switch for all. 1 for amp meter, 1 for driving lights and one for all the other lights together. So after calling some members it was thought that the battery might have just totally died. But the strange thing was that the amp meter keep showing 12.5. The 12.5 meant the battery is still good. So I went about check al the fuses, but the key thing was that everything except the amp meter was dead. So then found the main fuse, and it was good. Then there it was. I noticed that the positive terminal screw was loose. The main positive battery cable came off. Now how could that be. Being in a hurry to finish the accessories add ones I missed the hole in the cable and so the cable was wedged on tight. So after about 1 hour ride the cable came loose thus causing the tack fluctuate, the engine to miss, the battery to drain. As long as I was moving a 50 mph the shaking kept the cable bumping again the positive terminal/ When I came to a almost stop the cable was no longer being shaken against the terminal and thus a dead engine. So had I not connected the amp meter directly to the battery, I probably would have tired to locate a Wal-Mart for a new battery. The rest of the ride around Hoods Canel was marvelous. Never rode it before. An after thought, maybe I should carry one of the those hugh main fuses. Under what situation would one of those blow? It looked like it might be a 50 amp to 100 amp fuse, just guessing. -
Ok heres my problem, For 2 years straight now this bike has puked a battery. First was an original honda t type battery and now its a uasa that was installed new in feb. Went to crank the bike 2 days ago and it was dead. Checked the water and refilled with distileed water, jumped the bike and let it idle for close to an hr. BIked cranked back up after I cut it off so figured all is well. Today tried again same thing except water level was good. so put on the trickle charger thinking it just didnt get enough charge as it was showing 11.7 volts after 2 days setting static at 22 degress in the am. Charged for a few hrs and bike cranked wright up with full power. This is the same thing that happend on the first battery too. Heres where i get confused. I put the multimeter on the battery at idle and its charging at 13.4 volts. Brought up the revs( no tach so just brought it up) and ay first the meter went to 20.06 volts and then dropped to 12.6 volts. Ilet it idle again and meter went back up to 13.4 volts. I then did an unscientific test and noticed every time I rev the bike and set the thumb lock to hold it the head light gets a little dimmer. Volt meter also drop back to 12 or so volts every time. Did this multiple times and never seen and thing over 13.4 volts and thats always at idle. I checked the meter on my 91 vr and it showed just over 12 at idle and 14.1 at 3000 rpm so Im thinking meter is good. Round about the same numbers when it was checked on the e-250. So with all this Im thinking either a bad stator or voltage regulater. Any ideas. Help please as this is her bike and Id really like to get it wright for her. She will ride mine but shes scared of the weight . She has a hard time bringing it up to center and then her toes just barely touch. Any ideas are apreciated. Tahnks in advance David
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I installed a firestick antenna. To tune it I disconnected the cable from the antenna that goes to the radio and hooked it to the SWR meter so I have the cable running from the radio to the SWR meter. I then took the jumper cable that came with the SWR meter and hooked it to the SWR meter ANT connection and then to the antenna. Following the SWR meter instructions I then set the switch on the SWR meter to FWD. I then pushed the PTT button on the bike . The directions say to adjust the meter until it hits the set on the fare right of the meter. When I turn the knob all the way to adjust the needle it doesn't even move up to the 1.5 mark. A long ways from the SET mark. What am I doing wrong or does my CB not work. Any advise would be appreciated Thanks Norm
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I have som troubles that is electrical related. First problem was that the clock turned off with the ignition and that the turn signals sometimes failed to work. I did find corrosion in a connector behind the front lamp and after some cleaning these problems disapeared:cool10:. Now does the revcounter is showing to little and is sagging (reacting very slow to canges) . I assume that I should search for more faulty connectors, or ? The fuel meter did play me a trick today; suddely the level sank like a stone and the warning light started to blink. After a couple of minutes the meter rose and all was well again:080402gudl_prv:. And, non electrical; the speedometer shows a bit to little (not so important), have compared with my sons Z1000J and also by judjing from the rate at wich I pass cars... But the odo and the trip is stuck! I Had a similar problem with my Yamaha TT600; fixed it by splitting the meter and lubing very gentle with WD40 at the right places (oxide/rust). Is it difficult to split the speedometer on a XVZ1200? -
Any suggestions where to mount a mini volt meter on an 89 VR. Protected from rain preferred. Size of mounting hole is M4.3cm×2.3cm(1.7" x 0.9").
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I would like to install a good volt meter on my 89 VR, for I understand the dash meter does not provide a reliable read. Is that correct? So I would appreciate some good suggestions as to what there is out there and where a good place to install it. And any other related suggestions?
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I've been thinking about doing some tinkering with my dash, but since I ride year round, that would require me to get another dash housing. anyone have one? I ride an early '83, so no shift lights and cruise, won't need a tach, speedo, volt meter, temp guage or computer either, clock doesn't need to work either. I.e. basically I just need the box. Let me know. Thanks!!
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okay I did the dual firestick antenna modification. I really like the look. I live probably 220 miles from the nearest CB shop that I know of. When I go on line to look for a SWR meter to tune my CB antenna myself I see them priced from very low to very high. Since it isn't something I will use much after the one time I don't want to spend alot of money. Does anyone have a suggestion as to what make and model to buy without spending a bunch of money or should I just wait until I can make a trip to the nearest CB shop and let them do it. Norm
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Hot day and volt meter reading
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Yesterday I traveled from a ride in and the day was hot hot hot, and to make it even worse got caught in horrific traffic back jam due to accidents or what ever. I noted my bike was getting on the hot side of things so cut engine off whenever I could. Also noted the volt meter stayed at just above 12 volts at higher rpm rather than at 14 as usual. This morning it pops right back up to 14. Any reason or explanation for this? I already cleaned the wire connectors from stator and put dialectric grease on it some time ago. -
Battery goes dead in about a week of no use (rain). I was told to put a fluke meter in between the ground wire and neg post and start pulling fuses. Battery reads 12.3 volts across the post and 11.5 with the fluke meter between the ground wire and the post.No change with pulling the fuses.(switch off position) NEED HELP Mike
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If you test thre wire 0 ohms it is copper. In the end cap there is a resistor of some kind. can't be tested with o meter. How do you know if it is good or not.?
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Since installing my gauges, I'm wondering if the readings are ok. While running the passing lamps my volt meter reads about 12.3-12.5 Is that enough output to keep things charged up?
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Got a new battery about a year or year and a half ago. Everything seemed fine and then last year, towards the end of the season, I had the flat on the way to Denver. Took it down to the dealer there to have a new tire put on and ,when I went to get it, the battery barely turned the bike over reset the trip meter when it cranks slow. Since then I've experienced slow cranking a couple times. I took the battery to the Interstate place and had it tested and they said "the batter tests fine". However, before taking it in I had it on the trickle charger and, since I'd taken it out of the bike I had it in the warm building before taking it over. I kept it on the trickle charger all winter. First time I tried to start it about 4 weeks ago it cranked slow and reset the trip meter. Put it back on the charger and 2 weeks ago it started well, no trip meter reset. Road about 60 miles. Left it off the charger just to see what would happen. Fast forward to today. Went to ride this morning and started the bike before putting anything on. Bike cranked slow. Nothing on the speedo, fuel, trip meter. I've blown the fuse for that before so I'm thinking it's the fuse but would the battery and slow cranking blow that fuse? I'm still thinking I got a dud battery and that, when cold, it doesn't act like it does when warm. I know, in another post someone mentioned something about a power connection behind the battery box so I'm going to check that out as well.
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I know the fuel sender unit is a common problem and I have read through many of the threads that discuss it but I have yet to see this particular question answered. I also read through the service manual and owner's manual and I did not see anything that discussed that particular behavior (although it is likely that I missed it somewhere)... Does your low fuel light come on with the check engine light when you turn the key to the ON position (then go off after the 2 seconds or whatever it is)? I have seen my low fuel light come on and the trip meter switch to the "F trip" meter but it has been a while since I have seen that. Since the last time I have seen it I have had to switch to reserve with no light or f trip meter - but it is inconclusive whether the thing works or not. If it is supposed to come on when the key is turned to the ON position, then I know there is a problem with my unit. EDIT: Pg 8-37 of the owner's manual goes through the diagnostic and it does not say at any point, turn the key ON and see if the dumb thing lights up, so I am inclined to think that it doesn't, but it would be helpful if someone could tell me for sure. Thanks.
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I know that the service manual states on page 8-24 that the stator coil resistance ought to be between 0.279 and 0.341 ohms. Has anyone actually taken this measurement (excluding the run to pin 4 - since that seems to be a typo)? If so, what did you end up with? I am currently trying to troubleshoot my scoot and have already done the voltage check at the battery (which the scoot clearly passed). I have taken this measurement, but the resolution of the meter that I used is only 0.1 ohms, and I do not know for sure what the accuracy of the meter is nor what the TRUE range of this meter is... I have a better one at my office, which I will pick up when I go in next time to redo this measurement. The goal here is to verify that the stator is good/not good before I install and possibly ruin a new radio and/or not waste the money and time on a new stator if it is not necessary. Thanks in advance!
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Is this a Short or Bad Ground
Guest posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hi there Guys: I've got a bud that has an 86 royal star and I'm not sure about this problem but think its his grounding for the bike volt meter rises or picks up to the normal running area when you put a slite pressure to the clutch handle. Let go of the clutch and the meter drops and at night you can see the head light dim down. He has checked most of the connections and cleaned with contact cleaner plus putting the elletrolite grease on connections.. I think it would be the ground from motor to frame. Does Anyone have any other ideas what this might be.. -
I got a question and I hope its not a stupid question. I have never had a bike with a voltmeter on it before so I dont know if this is normal or not. When i have the turn signal on is it normal for the volt meter to go up and down ever so slightly? How about when the brake light is on i notice the volt meter go down a volt or two. Is this normal for these bikes or does this indicate I have a stator about to go out?
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Job applications --- City of Tacoma, Wa. posted a job opening for " One, electric meter Reader " Last week. They received 1400 applications, for this one job.
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The explanation of the volt meter function in the owners manual is pretty wimpy. It says if the needle drops into the yellow zone while riding, see your dealer. So, electrical experts; Can the meter show a weak or dying battery? Would that be indicated by a low reading while the bike is not running? If so, I assume less than 10 volts or so would be an indication of a weak battery? And, what if the reading is weak while riding? Is that a bad battery, or a bad stator?
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I think my stator is going or gone. New battery, and seems to stay charged, but volt meter is showing max 12 volts droping to 10 ideling at a stop with brake held. Meter shows what seems to be a full sweep from idle to 3000rpm, but shows about 2volts lower than it used to be. Any thoughts?? Also, Who has installed Buckeye's High Output stator and what if any differences have you had to deal with? Thanks, DJ P.S. Just figgered out how to attach a photo, if anybody cares.
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What type of connectors are used for the CB attenna connection. I'm told that it's not the PL259 but a different one, so in order to make my meter useable for the 2nd gens I would need to convert my connections.
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The CB antena wire goes into the black box under the trunk where do U connect the meter to adjust the SWR Gambler:15_8_211[1]:
