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Showing results for tags 'measure'.
Found 13 results
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Does anybody have the part number for the o-ring that slips onto the coolant drain pipe assembly and then seats into the thermostat housing on an 83 first gen? I cant seem to find it in the parts manual. Any alternatives or if someone has one that they can measure up that would be great. Perhaps I can find a suitable replacement.
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I am out looking for a ram mount......that is the circumference of the handlebars? I have a 2011 RSV. I am not with my bike to measure it.
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I'm not saying why I'm curious, but I have a question about the GL1800 models. GL1800 followed by HPNA or HPN or PM or P or something like that, sometimes with a 8 thrown in for good measure. I'm guessing these things are indicating what equipment they are shipped with from the factory. Can anyone tell me what those suffixes mean? Thanks,
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Finally got my long awaited luggage rack for the '99 RSV. Ordered from CruiserCustomizing.com for $84.95, including all hardware. It really is very nice, but very scary to install if you've never done something like that before. Once you start drilling holes in your truck lid, there's no going back! I followed all of the instructions to the letter, at least at first, but quickly found out that the 1/4" holes don't allow for any wiggle room to get the bolts lined up to the rack, no matter how exactly you measure and line them up. Due to the curvature of the trunk lid where the rack sits, I had to keep enlarging them a little at a time until I could start the bolts into the rack properly. They ended up being about 7/16ths in diameter, but the tapered billet washers are wide enough to cover these completely, as are the rubber mounts that keep out the water. I also added a little silicone gel to totally seal the holes, and some blue lock-tite to seal the deal. Very important to not over-tighten the bolts as I can see where the fiberglass/plastic will certainly crack in very short order. They just need to be slightly snug. All in all, not a very difficult install for anyone who is going to add this really nice rack, but like I said, a little scary making them holes! (I added a few pics. Hope you can see some of the detail.) Remember what Confusious said: "Measure, measure a thousand time - - but drill it only once"!
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I followed Goose's directions from his post and everything was great until I got to measuring the gap. I did like the manual and Goose said, timing mark in window to get TDC, and then the cams were pointing away from each other at about 5 and 7 o'clock. Problem is they are still in contact with the shims and you can't measure it. I cranked the engine a little further and the exhaust valves were free and intake was pushed open. Can you just measure the gap when the cam lobes are pointing up? It seems the round portion of the cam should be the same all the way around and the valve closed unless the cam is touching it.
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:255:Other then the plug being stuck. I need to measure the level of oil. I do not have a dip stick to measure. Does anyone know the the hight in inches from the top of the fill to the oil. Thanks Doug
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I thought mine was fine till a friend sent me the following? Got any more to add? aoladp://MA25530668-0001/01FA72~1.GIFToday's BEst of the BEst Dr. Visit aoladp://MA25530668-0002/0937FA~1.GIF brother Don I went to the doctor for my yearly physical. The nurse starts with the usual basics. "How much do you weigh?" she asks. I say, "135." The nurse puts me on the scale.. It turns out my weight is 180. The nurse asks, "Your height?" I answer, "5 feet 4 inches." The nurse checks and sees that I only measure 5 feet 2 inches. She then takes my blood pressure and tells me that it's very high. "Of course it's high!" I scream. "When I came in here I was tall and slender! Now I'm short and fat!" She put me on Prozac.
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I've given up on buying a hitch assembly for an 83. a buddy that has a full service shop says he can build me one if I can get photos of a hitch off the bike and or measurements and photos on a bike. Anyone able to help me? He will havethe bike at his shop to measure, but would like a starting idea as to waht they look like, how high they are mounted, etc.... -
I just bought this http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?invtid=KAT-MATRIX&cpc=SCH I plan to mount it on the bike this year and get some real numbers for performance. Use to Measure your Vehicle's: Braking force Cornering Horsepower G-Force 0-60 second acceleration * 1/4-mile time/speed *
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I dont really care for the manual's float adjustment for 1st Gens I have the carbs off is there a way to measure the float without the tube of fuel. Can measure it when your inside the carbs?
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OK, my new Avon, ( installed last May ) just turned the clock at 8,000 miles, yesterday. I decided to measure the tread wear, as best my old eyes can see. On sides where tread is not worn, at deepest point, I measure 5/16 tread depth. Dead center of tire, I measure 3/16, of rubber depth. So, it should make 14K, and maby 16K. Anyway, sombody might be interested in that information. ( for whatever its worth )
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Many times we over look the simple and expect the worst TCI failure. Most ignition failure causes are connection issues and not the TCI. Here are the steps I use to trouble shoot an ignition problem on a first gen with suspected TCI problem. 1. Remove battery and battery compartment. 2. Unplug both connectors from TCI box 3. With a digital ohm meter connect the black neg lead to the black battery cable. Do not connect to frame or chassis for a ground. Now measure with the red lead of ohm meter to a frame bolt or engine bolt. You should have O ohms or slightly higher.The ground connection to chassis is good.Now we are ready to measure TCI connectors. 4. On the smaller 6 pin connector measure the black wire. It should read 0 ohms or slightly higher. This is the gnd output from TCI to the pickup coil center taps. It may be easier to insert red test probe into the back of the connector plug to take these readings. NOTE: The ground comes from the TCI. You won't have a ground connection on the stator side with connector unplugged. The main ground to the TCI comes in on the output connector from the frame and loops through the TCI to the pickup coil input connector then through the pickup coil connector along lower frame next to stator. 5. Now measure the Orange,Gray,White/Red,and White/Green wires one at a time. These are pickup coil inputs to TCI.They should read 115 -125 ohms normal. If you don't have this or loss of one or more the most common cause is connector failure. (see white connector plug along frame above stator and clean contacts). 6. The Black/White wire is the Emergency Inhibit line. If it measure 0 ohms or has a low resistance the bike willl not start. Normally this measurement is done with the battery hooked up via jumper cables and ign switch on. Various sources through energized relays can inhibit this line. Such as emergency killl switch,side stand relay,tilt switch.clutch switch,etc. 7. With battery unhooked lets move to the 8 pin plug. measure the black wire should be 0 ohms system ground. 8. With the battery unhooked move the black lead of ohm meter to the Red + battery cable and turn on ignition switch. We are now going to measure the resistance back through each Primary Ignition coil to the battery positive lead. 9. Measure the Orange,Gray,Yellow, and White wires. Each should read 2.5 to 3 ohms ref the red battery lead.These are the induction output wires that fire the energized ignition coils, The Red/White wire is 13.8 volt supply line and should read 0 ohms.Thats it for the dc continuity test of connections to TCI. The Black/Yellow,Black/Red wires are from the pressure switch and should only be measured with engine running. The pressure sensor converts pressure into voltage which varys the timing advance with changes of pressure caused by rpm increase. These timing changes can be viewed with a Oscilloscope measuring the pickup coil input pulse and the corresponding output pulse for each cylinder.This is not something you need to worry about now. If all is well to this point and the obvious has been checked including Spark plugs and plug wires it's time to check the TCI. Before removing it (a patience trying task) I would plug in a spare unit. Every first gen owner should have a working spare or know where you can borrow one. If the TCI is defective remove from bike, open the case by removing the 4 phillips screws exposing the soldered side of circuit board. place in oven at 100 degrees for 30 minutes to remove any moisture in module. You can remove any corrosion from solder side of circuit board with gentle strokes of an old tooth brush and an electronic contact cleaning spray. If you have soldering ability and a low wattage iron resolder all connections below the heatsink nuts on the circuit board. These are the contacts leading to the out side connectors. The heatsink nuts hold the switching transistors that fire the ignition coils. Resolder the 3 terminals of each transistor. with a magnifying glass carefully inspect the remaining solder connections on the board. Anything that has a dull color or hairline crack should be resoldered. You have now fixed probably 95 % of TCI failures. Actual componet failures are rare and can only be accomplished by electronic techinicians with specialized desoldering stations and a schematic of the TCI. Not to mention parts availability for a 20 year old technology. Watch used TCI's can be bought on Ebay ocassionally for $50 bucks. 10. The best way to check a TCI is on the bike but I have plans for bench testing later.
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I took the numbers Freebird posted on replacement u-joints to Advance Auto and had them cross referenced. I ordered one for about $10 and picked it up today. When I tried to install it, I found it was slightly smaller than stock. The diameters are the same, but if you measure the distance between the grooves that hold the c-clip, in the generic I had it was 35mm and the stock is 37mm. Does anyone have a generic one that they can measure between these grooves? You can install it, but when you pull the caps outward as far as they will go there is play in the joint. RandyA
