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Showing results for tags 'lube'.
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I just finished installing a 2nd gen starter on my 1st gen 86 VR. It clearly solved the slow cranking. I cant say that I enjoyed the job. It wasn't a difficult job but you have to remove a lot of parts to get to the starter. I purchased new O-rings for the connections at the thermostat housing. Is a good idea to lube the rings with anything to help with reassembly and sealing? Maybe water soluble Vaseline or silicone? -
About 10 days ago I posted about tingling fingers and my plan to upgrade to Flanders bars and Kuryakyn ISO grips. Well, I've since completed that upgrade with the help of Usnmustang's wonderful pictoral write-up/how to. (Very informative and easy to follow - THANK YOU usnmustang, where ever you are .) Anyway, I've posted some pics for everyone to see the before and after. I think it looks really nice. I didn't put the stock weights back on because I'm not too good at fabrication but I did order the Kuryaky Bullet end weights to complete the look and get it back to real close. I didn't notice any additional vibration without the weight on (none at all as a matter of fact - VERY smooth). Like I said though, I'll put the new ends on if for no other reason than for a place to rest my hand when the cruise is on. You'll see in the pictures I still need to do something with the wiring. I'll probably get some black zip-ties which I think I can make look good. (I'm open to suggestions here so if anyone has a better idea, I'm all ears...) Here are the two questions I have after the install: 1. My new throttle grip doesn't want to snap back like it should. I've adjusted the cables every way I can think of (tighten, loosen and everywhere in between) and the throttle seems to move smoothly enough but I have to manually move it back from about 1/8 throttle. If I open it up to about 1/4 throttle or above it goes back to about 1/8. I hope that makes sense... What's everyones experience with this? Can I lube something to make it better and if so, what type of lube should I use? Other thoughts? 2. My other problem is the clutch. Keep in mind all I did was remove the housing from the stock bar, let it dangle and then put it back on. I didn't mess with it other than that. Now, the clutch seems a) just a little harder to pull and b) when I let it out it catches sooner. I used to get about 1 inch from the bar with the clutch lever before it caught but now it's more like 3/8 - 1/2 inch. Is there any way to adjust that? I guess I can't think of any other way to explain those two problems so I'm looking for anyone that may have suggestions. Hopefully it all makes sense. I'm going on a long ride next weekend and want to make sure it's tip-top by then. Please give me your thoughts. Hope everyone like the pics. Les -
After my recent trip to the US, and stops at almost every Motorcycle Dealer in the North East, I have not been able to find Molly Lube or as referred to as Molly Dolop). What would be an appropriate substitute which is easy to find for adding to the Final Drive Gear Oil?
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Just curious...mostly from people that have had this done at the dealer (stealer). They also changed out a back tire at the same time... So what is a customary charge at a DEALER for this service? I'm only interested in what was charged for the swing arm bearing lube. Thanks.
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Hope ya have a great day!! From JR at Quaker Steak and Lube!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :rasberry::rasberry: Gottcha!!! Craig & Kim
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How do I lube my clutch handle?
Red Rider posted a topic in Royal Star Venture Tech Talk ('99 - '13)
The handle feels like it's sticking a little on the pull in. Can I lube it and what shoud I use for it? And how do I do it. -
Is the rear end lube etc a possible project for MD? If yes, what tools or supplies do I need to bring?
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Ok Guys No miracle here. Not posting a way to change tires or fix flats with spray lube. I just went over the whoel bike spraying everything that moved, pivotted or slid on something. I didnt realize the throttle snapped back so fast and the sidestand actually goes back without having to guide it along. The throttle thing i wasnt expecting. i used to be able to let go of the throttle and scratch my nose and return to the throttle without bleednig off too much speed. Now I let go and it nearly jerked me off my seat. I plan to go over it once more andsee what else I should lube.
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I've been putting off lubing "Uglys" tach. It has bad case of slows but I've got to get in there anyway and thought I would lube Tach While I was doing other things. What is best thing to lube it with??
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Our local Yamaha Dealer "Oxford Michigan" will close the doors this week. Everything is 50 per cent off. I guess another dealer took all the bikes off his hands. I got some oil, air cleaners, brake pads both front and rear, chain lube, "for my DRZ", cleaning supplies and some other stuff. What a shame. They always treated me well. They were only 5 miles away. Now the nearest will be 20. Still not bad.
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I have a problem with my throttle grip. It's not returning to idle on it's own. It started after the bike sat in the rain at work. I have lubbed the cables and tried to lube the linkage with no success. I would apperciate any suggestions. I can still ride but it's not comforting keeping a constant grip to return the throttle.
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Alright...i'm having a problem and need some advice....I recently lubricated all the hinges and moving parts on my saddlebags...NOW, my right saddlebag will latch closed BUT after riding for a few minutes it pops open. I was able to duplicate this by hitting the bottom of the bag a few times and i can easily get the latch to pop. I have taken it apart and put it back together. Everything was tight and it is still doing it. I have not seen anyway of making the latches tighter and i'm in need of some help. This didnt happen before i lubed them so im thinking the lube has to wear off but im hoping someone has an idea...
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Need new tires on my 07 midnight venture want to go with the Dunlop E3's or the Avon Venom. I know there are other threads but I was wondering if anyone has boughten tires lately and where's the best deal. When looking at other threads I don't think I could go wrong with either but whats your opinion. Also is there anyone near me, Appleton WI, that might have a tire changer that would be willing to give me a hand changing the tires as well as any other things that should be done while I have the tires off (I was really bummed that I wasn't able to make the maintanance day in WI this last weekend). One other thing are the tires we buy off the internet first quality tire my local dealer told me that places like Motorcyle super store and Denis Kirk are all selling second, tires with flaws, which I don't personally believe. I think that was his way to justify his price over $600 and that was for the standard oem replacements. Has anyone else ever heard of this UPDATE: Tell me what you think of this I went to a local shop that sells dunlop e3"s got a price of $325 installed I asked the about lubing the splines when they had the back tire off and they said it was unnessasary and all it does in make a mess and that they actually wipe off anmy lube on the spline if there is any. So what gives I've seen tech articles on this site on how to lube this spline so it makes me wonder if i should even consider this dealer what do you think Thanks Jeff
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What do you guys use to lube the shift linkage ball joints? I have heard mention of DriSlide. The website won't send to a home address business only. Somebody told me they use chain lube. What is the best choice? -
What started out as a quick fix and a long summer of riding has turned into your standard "make it look real pretty" job. Thanks Earl for the mod spacers for the carbs. I will need to look into some threads to get an idea how to deal with the adjustable needles. Here are a few pics to show the progress. At present, I am doing some modifications since she is taken apart. Moved the TCI box, will get at carbs soon, changed oil, strengthened the plastic because some day it will crack there! Lube what I can lube and generally looking at every bolt. I think, well the little lady thinks" I should go with a single color close to the original brown with the burgundy tint. I will probubly add some more metal flakes to it.
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Hello everyone, Well it's getting to be that time of year when we all think about getting the bikes ready. I'm changing tires for the first time on the Venture and wanted to lube the hub splines when i have the rear wheel off. I can remember something about using a Honda lube of somekind. Would someone please refresh me as to what I should use. I understand its suppost to be the best. Thanks and have a safe summer Frank
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Went for an awesome ride today (thanks for leading Randya), but in the middle of the ride the spedo started screaming. Then it decided not to come home with me. I suppose that means we've moved past the "lube it and it'll be ok" point. How much is this going to cost me? -
I've got my 89 in pieces--it's winter and a great time to do Preventative Maintenance. I pulled the shaft drive apart to grease the front spline. Is there any reason for me to pull the shaft out of the gearbox and lube the rear spline?? Or is the designed lube flow (from the gearbox) just fine and never given anybody a problem?? If I pull it apart, do I just take the snap ring off and slide the washer off? Frank
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Well, I just got done helping another member replace the worn out steering head bearings in his RSV - what a nasty job! Most of us know that Yamahaha doesn't add much lube to bearings on the initial build, so it is pretty important you get in there and lube them at least once on the specified maintenance interval. But it is a big, nasty, and long job (and expensive if you have the dealer do it). I've seen a few folks suggest that you might as well just ignore it and wait until the bearings are shot around 50,000 miles, then just properly lube the replacements. Well, I'm here to tell you that is a bad plan. Much better to keep them in shape from the beginning. The bike we worked on had a bit over 70,000 miles, and the owner was complaning about lots of head shake and an unsteady feeling when coming off the line. When we first checked it out, the front forks had a LOT of slop when pulled front/back with the wheel off the ground. Using the quick technique to tighten down the bearings, we got a huge amount of movement out of the ring nuts, but even after they were tight enough to almost stop the free motion of the forks (where the tire will turn all the way to the stop under it's own weight), the same slop was still in the bearings. No option at that point except changing the bearings! When we got in there, the wear pattern on the inner race for the top bearing was very heavy at the front only (which explains why they had so much front/back play), and the lower race showed major wear marks in line with each individual roller. This showed that the bearing was so loose for so long that the rollers never actually moved in the race! Most interesting was the actual condition of the roller bearings - although there was not a lot of lube in there, this 03 with 70K+ miles still had some, and the rollers all looked pretty good, no pitting or corrosion at all. The message here is that if they had simply been kept properly adjusted, they would have been just fine even after 70,000 miles without a single service! Too bad. The work needed to change the bearings is pretty much the same as what you have to do just to lube them, but I'll tell ya that you really don't want to have to pull those races from the steering head or get that lower bearing off the shaft - that job ain't no fun! Yamahaha really forked up in the design of how those races fit in the head - virtually no lip exposed at all for a puller to grip. And it took a lot of time with an oxy-acetylene torch to finally get that bottom bearing to expand enough to come loose. I normally wouldn't worry about the torch work, but all I could think about was the horror of seeing that cast aluminum lower tree start melting on me if I got a little careless!! Replacing the bearings added at least three hours to this job. Ugh. Here is a quick note on something we learned about adjusting the bearings - the tech library has an article on how to do a quick and dirty adjustment by sneaking a long screwdriver up under the steering head cover and using a hammer to turn the ring nut and lock nut together. These two nuts are locked together with a tab washer, and I always thought there was a problem trying to get much movement of these ring nuts if you didn't use something to pry the lock tabs out of the slots. You see, every other application I have ever seen using a tab washer like this has a key slot in the shaft that prevents the tab washer from turning with both nuts together. Well, not his bike! That tab washer is not tied to the shaft at all, so you can turn both ring nuts together just as far as you want! If you haven't checked your steering head bearings for proper adjustment, you really need to do it. My 05 had noticeable chatter under heavy front breaking on rough surface by about 8,000 miles, but one adjustment using the quickie method took care of it. Now with over 73,000 miles, those bearings still have no sigh of slop in them. Even if you are not going to go to all the work to lube them, best keep them adjusted! Ride safe, Goose
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hi all just talked to kelly (wilsontamu83 ) about a short notice mx day at his place this coming saturday sept,19 about 9:00 am. we will be doing a carb synch and drive shaft lube on his bike maybe more. anyone else need some mx come on out. kelly will chime in here shortley with some details. best reguards don c.
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I bought this kit that had a quart of Penzoil marine gear lube 80W-90 GL5 mainly because I wanted the pump that came with it. The whole kit was $5. Is there any difference between marine gear lube and regular gear lube? What I currently use in the rear end of the bike is regular 80W-90 GL5, so my thought is I should be able to use this stuff meant for marine use. Same weight and they both have the GL5 rating... Anyone with any knowledge on this?
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I ordered a classic radial, dealer said it was built by cooper, I told the tire dealer ( who I have known for years) to lube the bead with murphy lube, but he did not and blew the tire trying to seat it. so now I have a khumo ordered, will try again monday. My ears are still ringing. Gregg
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I'm finally getting around to installing the new to me final drive pumpkin I snagged from Lonestarmedic and thought it would be wise to lube the shaft before sticking it in. Question is: How do you disconnect the shaft from the pumpkin end to lube it? -
First os all I want to thank all of you that post the how to's and such on this site. it gave me the courage to pull the rear wheel off and then the driveshaft out tonight. You can officially count me as a member of the DRY driveshaft club. It was dry as a bone on both ends. Now to be honest, I could see where there had been something there at one time. But it couldn't have been much. I am wondering if they don't just put some assembly lube on the things when they first install them and call it finished. But it's greased up and back together now. My wife helped me get the shaft lined up and we got it in position the first try. Tomorrow I need to go get some new lube for the pumpkin and then I'll put the pipes and bags back on and take her for a ride. Thanks again for giving me the confidence of doing this kind of thing myself. I did have my computer on just in case I had questions or problems during the process. I knew someone would be around to answer them for me. Ride safe and I am looking forward toseeing all of you huys that are going to MD at Don's.
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Can someone please explain how to lube the control cables on a 2008 venture? I bought a repaid manual, but it does not explain this. I am sure it must be pretty simple.
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