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Showing results for tags 'loose'.
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The Jayhawker's are taking down the Mountainer's. You've already lost to one Kansas (St) school, might as well loose to the bottom dwellers. GO JAYHAWKS :rasberry::rasberry:
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Do you ever watch one of the videos posted on here and when it ends it shows about a dozen more to choose from and then you watch one more and then there is about a dozen more....? Sometimes I will end up watching videos for a while that just seem to go on and on. One of the frustrations is when you will have several that pops up that are interesting and if you watch one, you may loose the other interesting ones, and you can not back up. Sometimes I will go back to the original posted video and when it finishes, pick a different one from the last time and see where it goes. RandyA
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Just replaced the pads on the rear of my 85 and now the rear wheel needs alot of convincing to turn. I had to clamp the caliper to get it back on the wheel. Put it all back togeather easily enough. Will it wear down and let loose after a long ride? Its a little hard/near impossible to push it back into the garage. Thanks for the advice.
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A couple of weeks ago, Dingy posted some great 1st. Gen service bulletins. One of the items concerned the bolts that join the right lower section to the main frame. This is the section that you remove to pull the motor. While I was working on the 89 yesterday, I thught of this proceedure and decided to make sure mine were tight. I pulled the right footpeg bracket, and tightend the bolts.....mine were about 1/4-1/3 turn loose. I also checked the forward bolts, and 1 of them was a little loose. BTW, Yammie suggested that they'd be checked every time the bike was in for service. I didn't think the bolts were so loose that they'd cause a problem, but today I noticed that the bike seems to turn a bit better. Thanks Gary!! Frank D. -
After 2 years I found the saddlebags guard bars for the RS 97, and i got them. (Yes I paid at least 100$ over the price since it is not on the market anymore...). I finished to put it, and I didn't realize that one of the upper plates is not on the same positition regarding the saddlebag than the other one. After I runned the bike yesterday, it seems that my rear shock is not longer working now. Did somebody had been on the same situation any time? I'll correct that now, but I wonder if due to the lateral force the shock is not on perfect line and that is enough to stop working. Or when I put the lower plates, and release each one of the two bolts that holds the frame on each lower side (One at the time) that some way released the shock and now is totally loose, and this is the real reason for the shock not working anymore since it is loose. Thanks for any advise on this. :sick::sick::sick:
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I bought a water proof case for my GPS to mount on my handlebar studs (Snagglestuds! Shameless I know). Clamp mount works good, case fits fine, BUT the slip connection is not a lock type that snaps on, just friction. Now I'm not a fan of grabbing at things as they come loose. So some sort of lanyard was going to be needed to be fashioned in case, just in case that puppy popped off. I was at the store today and I passed one of those bargin bins that had a bunch of those stretchy straps with the slider that slip over the ends of the ear pieces of your glasses to hang them around your neck for .50 cents. Well the light popped on. Back at the house it took all of ten mintues for fix it up is it's easy on - easy off. The slip connection don't work loose anymore. A stretchy strap A couple of small key rings A couple of zip tie stick-on zip tie mounts and it was done. Under a couple bucks for a little extra secuity for the toys you paid good money for. Mike
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Has anyone had their gas cap come apart? I lost a screw most likely in the tank that I,ll have to get out . The other was still there but really loose. anyway the springs in it came out and I wanted to know if anybody knew where they went.
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OK I haven't seen this covered so here is my question. I was pulling into a driveway today about 35 miles from hame and went to twist on the throttle and nothing, no warning, no issues before this. It still had the return pull pul but nothing for throttle. Now has anyone had this happen and if so did the cable break or just come loose. Makes it really hard to ride without the throttle. Any help would be appreciated before I start to tear it apart. Thanks
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My 2005 venture is a little quirky. Some times when I turn the bike on to start everything comes on but when I press the starter button............nothing. what I have to do is sit down on the bike and hit the seat hard when I sit down then all the electrics come on and it will start. I know it sounds like a loose connection and before I start wiggiling things I thought I would ake if anyone else has a similar experience.
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2003 with 58000 km on it. Took it out for a ride, seems to ride just fine,, not as nice as a 1st gen, but then it's not a first gen. Steering seemed a little loose, that all. Didn't see any serious marks or breaks. Needs a good cleaning.
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The left side highway foot rest is loose. The allen screws are tight, but cant get enough squeeze on the bar. Any ideas what I can use as a shim to allow the screws to pull the clamp together tighter on the bar? Thanks for the help. Bret
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can anyone tell me the size of bearing buddys for the tag a long trailer from h/f..they gave me 1.98 but are way to loose.
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I recently switched out the clear for amber bulbs. On the way to the dealer for service I noticed that my signals were not working. So I pulled over and the rears were not lit at all but the fronts were acting like running lights. They were on, but would not flash when I flipped the switch to indicate I was turning. Any ideas what would cause this. I mentioned it to the service guy and (at my request) they said they would check to make sure a bulb hadn't come loose. Service guy said all was good, but I checked the signals before I left and they are working again. To me it seems like a bulb was loose after all. What do you guys think?
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Coming home from MD weekend the left side of the trunk latch wouldn't open when we stopped to eat. I was able to force it open but then it wouldn't latch. When we arrived home the right latch wouldn't open. Again I had to force it. When I pulled the latch assembly off the trunk I found that the lock mechanism is held in by 2 screws, one was loose. Turns out there is a spring on each side that is continually trying to lock the latch, the lock cylinder pulls a mechanism against the springs to unlock. With the loose screw the pieces misalign causing the trunk to be locked even with the lock cylinder in the unlock position. Fortunately I was able to reassemble it and it now works fine. Just a tip that you might want to check those screws are snug. Apparently they can work loose in 20 years.....
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I know who knows....we were not riding it BUT today while out for a ride I really "lit" into the bike from a rolling start at a yield intersection. It really felt like the back end broke loose. This is a really heavy bike and it caught me off guard. Nice clean dry pavement. Will these bikes break the rear wheel from a rolling start??? Or was I imagining it
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Hi Well since last yr when I would start my 83 VR I got a loud rattle from down under the bike. So today I took off the exhaust collector. I think it came off in a fare amount of time about 30 mins, So I made 3 cuts and folded the flap open. took out the screen that was loose. Now hears where Im not sure about something. On the inside there is a layer of screen that is tight to the skin or the top of the collector. It dosent feel or look loose can I leave it and weld the collector back up? Or should I try to get it all out? Also should I drill holes in the corners that I cut to stop any cracking before I weld? Thanks Bull463:fingers-crossed-emo
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Hello everybody, been a while for me here. I was riding my 97 RSTD when I went to down shift coming off the freeway and there was nothing!! I pulled the clutch and coasted to a gas station right off the freeway, where I saw that the linkage had come loose from the tranny! I was able to push it in and got it into 2nd gear to get home with, but I'm not sure what the fix is here. Anyone know? Thanks! -
OK guys--I think my starter is fried--My question is-do you have to remove the Outside cover to remove the starter?--I have the bolts out and it's loose but will not release ......................Larry
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Well we are trying to get the engine out of my 84 so that we can fix 2nd gear. Right now the problem is that we cannot get the pipes to separate from the collector. Tail pipes are off but the front and rear exhaust pipes just will not come loose. Afraid of breaking the collector and it appears to be in good shape. Any ideas? Is there a trick? I already broke one of the bolts trying to loosen the clamp on one of them. (gonna be looking for a clamp probably) At least that clamp is loose now. :-) -
Tye and I are going to support our Seattle Seahawks, the only NFL team to ever win a division title with a loosing record. Go..... Seahawks Win or Loose History will be made. Seahawks has nothing to loose, just let it all hang out and get a win. Any kind of a win even and ugly win.
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Took a short ride today on back roads Mcconnnel mills and around started down a good paved road Wife tells me she feels a thump thump on left side of trike:confused24: stoped looked for flat tire nope gps gas station .7 mile started out for it thumping got worse pulled into station look under for loose cv joint or any thing else that might be loose nope stood back and look at it saw lug nut jest about whole way out of wheel naturley had adapter no socket to fit it But met a nice gentleman in pickup truck ask if he had a wrench or scoket in truck no but I live close by will run home to get you one which he did offered to give him some thing for his getting it but he said no thanks NEW TOOL TO BE ADDED TO TOOL POUCH IN TRIKE 3/4 socket and ratchet
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I found a major source of frame and bar buzz on my bike which turned out to be the passenger floorboards. When the boards are in the upright stowed position, you can move them side to side freely before hitting the spring stops.. "loose" is quite accurate. I jammed some soft wood between the mounts and the pivot end of the floorboards to seize them up while in the upright position and yep.. what a huge difference. I took one apart to confirm that yes, the ball and spring were present and reassembled it but its very loose.. Is there a more permanent / proper way to tighten these up other than jamming a stick of wood like i have? You can't see the wood, I seldom ride with passengers.. but would like to sort this out somehow.. Anyone else experience something similar?
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:dancefool:Oooooooooh!!!! What A Feeling ...What A RUSH!!!! Already 2,000 kms can't get off the scoot One draw back is I KNOW EVEnTUALLY I'll Get A TICKET OR Loose MY Licence:crying:
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So, What was the verdict on your valve shims? How many needed to be adjusted and were they tight or loose? Do you notice a difference in the way it runs, if so, what difference?
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I'm trying to stop a slow oil drip that appears to be coming from the left side of the crank/trans case. So I'm going to replace the clutch shaft oils seal (93109-08061-00), and the shift shaft oil seal (93102-12106-00, (SD 12-22-5 HS)). I was also gonna shim any loose or worn areas while I was in there. Is there anything else I should be looking at down there that may be causing the drip? I don't want to be having to crack open things any more than I have to. Thanks, Bill
