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Showing results for tags 'lights'.
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If anybody is interested, here are my notes on converting from incandescent headlights to LED. I ordered a set from LED Factory Mart. Info: 2005 Royal Star Tour Deluxe. So here is obviously your staring point. There is a screw on either side of the main headlight assembly. Remove the main headlight plug. Remove the rubber housing. Undo the spring bar. This will take a bit of effort. Before you remove the two long screws found a 8 o'clock and 4 o'clock you may want to take note of approximately how much of each one is screwed in. These also act as the aiming adjustments. You will still need to re-aim your light after you are complete anyways. Here is the inside of my driving lights before making any modifications. The LED 4" lights I ordered came with a very nice plug assembly but there wasn't enough room in the bucket to keep it. I had to cut it off and wire in directly. It will be a tight fit to get the 4" lights back in the bucket. When lining up the main headlight to go back in the housing note that if you line it up with this screw at the top it will not be centered. That screw is a bit off of 12 o'clock. Finished project.
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I'm brand new to this site and would love some input. I was in a hurry last night and was attempting to change my passing lamps from the standard bulbs to LED's. Well, I started disconnecting and connecting the new lights WITHOUT disconnecting the battery.....well long story short I shorted out my headlight fuse, replaced that fuse got the headlight working again.....but the passing lamps still won't work at all. I'm wondering if there is an inline fuse maybe hidden somewhere? I have a 2009 Venture S with the factory passing lamp setup. The LED's did work briefly before stopping....now the old lights won't work either so I've eliminated the lights being defective. I've checked all the main fuses and they appear to be working now. Any advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance!
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Another How To question. I bought a '96 RS Tour Classic which had been previously wrecked and the front blinkers are slightly different. I'm also wanting to add some passing/aux lights up front as well. I've included pics below. I can't quite figure out how to relocate the blinkers and add the lights to the existing bar. Perhaps a close up of a factory setup would help. Look like I need some cylinders or spacers between the lamps and blinkers. I think one of the blinkers is off a different bike. I'm not opposed to buying an aftermarket set of blinkers as well, but I'm generally a cheapie! LOL. Any ideas?
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So the other day, my headlight refuses to come on after the bike starts. It has happened before, but it has always resolved itself. This time...nothing. Good thing I have fog lights. So I start taking things apart. I thought it might be the HID light I just installed but a standard H4 refused to light as well. Long story shorter; it was the starter switch. It was refusing to return all the way after use. There is a tiny gap between the spot where the light turns off and the starter lights. It was stuck in that spot. It would start but wouldn't light the lights. A little lube and all is well. -
Hi Guys, I'm in the process of upgrading to LED bulbs on one of 86 Venture Royals. I have already converted the headlight and it sure makes a difference. I have read several articles and forum posts of guys who have already done this and there have been several references made to "Jumper the CMU for headlight, running, and brake lights" so the dash warning indicator isn't constantly lit due to the CMU thinking there is a bulb burnt out caused by the greatly reduce electrical draw from the more efficient LED bulbs. Although there is very detailed info about converting to LED's, I have not been able to find details of what the steps are to perform this "Jumper on the CMU". Any experts out there who have already performed this "jumper" process on the CMU that could point me in the right direction of which solder points I need to jumper for Headlight and Brake lights? Thanks in advance! -
I just replaced the wiring harness on my 83. I seem to have no brake lights but all my other lights are working. According to the wiring diagram this should mean I have power to the circuit. Any thoughts? The fuses are all good also. Neither brake switch is working. -
Note: This post is kinda long, but not too technical(except for the very end). There has been a lot of discussion in the past about the amount of reserve electrical capacity on an RSV for accessories, although most of the detailed facts were BC and no longer available for review. Some folks have glibly stated that the RSV has "lots" of extra electrical power available (with which I completely DISagree). So I thought I would publish some real world observations without a lot of stats to interpret. My 2005 QuickSilver has quite a few added lights, but with the exception of 4 small 3 watt instrument bulbs, all of them are LEDs, so they do not significantly increase the total load. My Driving lights are stock Yamaha accessories with original bulbs. I have both an ammeter (which allows me to see absolute proof if current is going in-to or out-of the battery at any moment, and a digital volt meter that reads to the tenth of a volt. I also have a tach. Most of you know that these bikes have four individual carb heaters, 15 watts each, for a total of 60 watts, which is a significant load. I don't know the trigger temp for the heaters, but it seems to be around the low 60s. The thermal switch is under the rear battery covers, so engine heat causes them to be shut off after warm-up unless the temp is quite a bit lower. When trying to figure out how much extra load you can add to an RSV, you need to factor in this 60 watt load if you are going to be riding in any cool or cold weather. Obviously important if you are going to use heated clothing! To recap, the electrical load on my bike is almost stock. I am experimenting with a set of grip heaters that pull about 2 amps/25 watts. I know they are not malfunctioning because they are wired through a 3 amp fuse which has not blown. Today, the temp was right around 30 degrees as I headed to work - cold enough to guarantee the carb heaters never shut off from engine heat. I ride about 25 miles, so this is far enough to ensure the current drain from starting the bike is completely replaced by the time I get to work, giving me the opportunity to observe the charging system both with a battery taking light charge, then a fully charged battery. Bottom line: with the driving lights on and the grip heaters on but headlight on low beam, the RSV can just barely handle the charging requirements of a normal battery in good condition at engine speeds above 1,800 RPM. Turning off the driving lights (total load reduction of 70 watts) makes a BIG difference. Below 1,800 RPM with driving lights and grip heaters on, the ammeter shows the charging system cannot handle the load and the battery is discharging. Hitting the brakes dramatically increases that discharge, and brakes with turn signals even more. This means the RSV has very little practical reserve charging capacity during cold weather unless you turn off the driving lights! Here are the technical details to go with those observations: At high idle after starting (about 1200 RPM, while the battery is trying to take a charge, with lights and grip heaters but no brakes or signals), the system voltage reads only about 10.9 volts, and the ammeter shows the battery is discharging. Raising the RPM close to 2,000 pushes the voltage up to 11.7, and the ammeter shows 0, meaning that the charging system is handling all the lights and heaters, but nothing (or only minor amount) is left to recharge the battery. Over 2,000 RPM shortly after starting (all conditions the same as above), the system voltage raises to about 12.3 and the ammeter begins showing a slight current flowing into the battery. After the battery is fully recharged, the system voltage at idle with lights and grip heaters but without brakes or signals is about 11.9, and the ammeter still shows a slight discharge. Hitting the brakes at idle drops the voltage to 10.9. Fully recharged battery with lights and grip heaters on, normal cruising RPM, the system voltage registers about 13.2. With a fully recharged battery, turning off only the grip heaters at idle pushes the voltage back up to about 12.8, and turning off the driving lights gets it all the way back up to about 13.5.This test is admittedly unscientific, and all the voltages were based only on memory from this morning's ride (not carefully written down under precise conditions), but I hope that information at leasts gives you something to base your decisions on when deciding on additional accessories. Good luck, Goose
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I'm thinking about replacing my tail light bulb with a red LED to make it brighter. Has anyone done this,, does it work with the stock red lens or do I need to change to a clear lens.. Eventually I also want to change the turn signals to a cluster with running lights, brake lights and turn signals but not willing to spend quite that much at this time.
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Fall is upon us, and with it getting darker earlier and with our white tail friends getting ready to run amok, I added a few very inexpensive safety items that I picked up at Wally World today. The LED lights are mounted on both right and left side saddle bag rails and can be solid or blinking for additional visibility from the sides at night. They take 2 AAA batteries each and will run for 400- 500 hours continuous before needing new batts. They cost $8.95 each. I took the bike out for a quick ride tonight, and man can you be seen! The chrome deer whistle is mounted under the right side bag to catch the max amount of wind, and is barely visible, and is also removable by sliding it off the stick-on holder. They came 2 to a package for $7.95, so I mounted the other one under the right side foot pad on the wife's Harley. For that price, I'll probably get two more for the left side of each bike. Can't be too careful this time of year.
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Hi All, New hear, just purchased a 2007 Royal Star Venture, wow what a bike! Previous original owner said he never had any issue with cruise control, I tend to believe him, but when I turn it on the switch, it goes back to center position I believe like it should, but there are no dash lights at all. Haven't taken anything apart yet and am wondering if there is a fuse that could have blown or any suggestions as to where to start my trouble shooting. Thanks in advance, great forum!...Gorski
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Hello all! I recently acquired a 91 1300 with a bit more personality than I was expecting. I was coming home late from a job in another town and all of a sudden, my headlight and all dash lights went out. No moon and a clear starry night made this experience a bit of an eye opener. I pulled over and tried everything I could think of to get some kind of lights somewhere. Finally, out of pure frustration I brought both hands down flat on the plastic gas tank/battery/electrical stuff cover pretty hard. Suddenly I had lights again. This leads me to believe I have a loose or corroded wire somewhere, but I'm not even sure where to start looking. I just got the wiring diagram for this bike from the tech library (holy freaking cow is that handy), but I'm not sure where to begin looking for the problem. I am curious about the "Reserve Lighting Unit" and it's connected reserve light. What are they for? Anybody know? I've had this bike for just a few months now (4 or 5) and am really impressed with both the power and the mileage. I'm not sure of how many miles are on it because the speedo burned out on me within the first month. I'll be looking for a replacement soon, but I want to focus on the lights issue first. -
Winter project is almost complete, Yea Complete Clutch replacement from rebuilding master to replacing clutch slave and plates. Lube drive shaft (PIA) to putting back in. Replaced fuel sending unit. Added a HID headlight. Accent lights and a light switch, missing are the saddle bags not pictured 200 (Clarion XC1410) amp and new speakers (Blaupunkt MSx 402) Adding a second fuse block under seat by battery Trailer isolator converter (still working on the attachment) Replace fuel pump and filter (keeping old one for a backup) Trailer Hitch with mount and Flags Sending seats out to have Mr. Butler do his magic:) Last is to put her all back together:beer:
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Hi, I'm a new member with a new to me -84 xvz 1200. Quick question: should the engine run without the fairing ( radio, intercom, signal lights etc ), it should, right ? Got the bike a week ago. It started and ran well. Due to the winter wasn't able to do a proper test drive, but it idled ok. Started several times. I took the farings off and now the lights come on , the computer seems ok, it cranks but doesn't fire up. The battery is not the issue, I use backup fullycharged battery when testing. To my understanding only wires I disconnected were radio, signal lights, speakers, emergency signal, intercom. Are any of those connected to spark circuit ? I also sprayed some starter liquid to air box while starting, with no success. I seem to have lost the spark. I didn't see any badly made jumps in the wiring, I assume it's standard wiring other than fuse box. That has been changed. Bikes has 52 thousand miles on the clock. There are some minor cracks in the front fairing. I think it's royal with class system removed. This is my first touring bike, and also my first bike so much modern tech I've previously had xj900, cb 750, gsx750 all from early 80,s. Simple bikes for simple rider. XVZ seems to have more electronics than those together. It's gonna be 3-4 months winter where I live, before riding season starts. During that my aim is to repair fairing cracks, clean carbs, check valves, clean starter motor, change all fluids .... Been following this forum for a while, didn't want to sign up before I owned the bike. There seems to be huge knowhow within the group. I'll check the plugs and report back. Thanks, Anssi
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I would like to inquire of those who have removed the front lower fairing leg on what they feel was the benefit and or what they regret or miss? I would also like to ask if anyone has blocked the front fairings air vent and again what they regret or miss? The purpose of these question is that I am still building my 85 project and am considering using the air intakes for the lower legs to mount a set of auxillary running lights in. In this forums opinion the pros and cons? I ask as I want to see if anyone else will come up with something I have not thought of or overlooked. I am considering installing a set of lamp in the least obtrusive location. Thanks in advance to all who reply and share their thoughts and opinions.
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the LR4 driving lights are what I will be installing.
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Yeah ... I know ... personal preference and all... I am looking to get some for engine lights and ground effects, and I am just looking for opinions on a color choice. I have a Black Cherry '06 RSV and I was going to go with green, but am now thinking it might look muddy. What do you guys think? I am open to all suggestions ... nothing wrong with white ... red? purple?? I just have a feeling that buying a single color set might be better quality than a multi color set...? Oopinions on that? Thanks all!
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I have a 2012 RSV, and I'm having a problem with the passing lights. The right side will go off and come back on at random times going down the road. Has anyone experienced this problem? Both bulbs are new and still do the same thing. Thanks for any help.
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Merry Christmas Venture family! Is it possible to get some technical advice from the electrical gurus here, I own a 08 Cadillac SRX, it has one quirk that can not seem to be solved even at the dealer! The daytime running light bulbs will burn out repeatedly . Sometimes within a week of replacing them. When that happens the signal lights will flash fast and the rear LED taillights will do all kinds of weird things. I just replaced the bulbs last week and they went out again. Both rear taillights will flash when I turn on the right or left signal and the brakes are applied. The systems are all tied together in the computer and all the research tells me its the cars way of telling me the bulbs are burned out. I have changed the bulb sockets as suggested by GM replaced the bulbs cleaned and checked the sockets and plugs. All the other lights are operational. To change the bulbs one has to remove the front wheels and take the complete inner fender off to get at the housing for the bulbs. To do both sides it can take a couple of hours. who in the world designed this? On to my question, can I replace these bulbs with a LED and hook some kind of resistor inline to fool the computer into believing it has a incandescent bulb in it? Kind of like the battery probe mod on my 1st gen? How would I find the right resistor to use ? From what I have found online the bulbs get hot, and the sockets get hard and cause a bad connection, high resistance and the element will burn out. I am not sure if the DRLs can be disabled and have everything else work as it should. Im at a loss. I wanted to sell the car but I sure would feel bad if a new owner had the problem and it caused a wreck because of the signal lights. Any ideas?
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I have been researching the older post on LED's. I read some that say you don't have to add anything but the bulbs unless you change out the turn signals. Other post sound like you do have to add resistors. I would like to change out the running lights that I have and perhaps the headlight. I don't want to change the turn lights at this time. My bike is a 87' 1st gen. Can someone please clear this up for me?
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I have the Yamaha passing lamps on my 07 RSMV. I have also upgraded to the HID headlight. The HID is so bright, you can't even see the passing lights or they just barely appear kinda yellowish. I want to change them out for something that puts out more light and will hopefully be able to use the current Yamaha light bar. Any ideas?
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Hello. I've just bought 98RSTD from a private party. The bike sat in his garage idle since 97. I had the carbs worked/plugs/fluids and it runs fine except it'll shut off without warning even down the freeway at 65mph. The lights don't go out. After you stop it'll start back up just fine, but it'll do it again. Anyone had anything like this?. Thanks, P.S I'm new to VR. -
Currently on my 84 I have a few lights added to the oem setup. I have: 1. the rear light bar which has 8 Baron mini twin running lights 2. a pair of 50 watt driving lights 3. a small amp for my MP3 I have the factory radio turned off. When I drive around with just the amp, the OEM lights & the markers on everything is good. If I turn on the driving lights on the charging drops below 12 volt at 3000 rpm. if I shut them off goes to 13.5. Obviously the light are too much for the charging system. I'm going to replace the bulbs from 2 - 50 watt to something lower. Can somebody tell me what would be the max wattage I should use? -
I have in perfect condition the Jack Daniels Old No 7 headlight visor and passing lamp visors off my 2nd gen. I'm looking to swap them out for a plain set. To my knowledge, Ronnie, the previous owner had used Harley spot lights as his driving lights. They appear to be the same size as the Yamaha ones but I can't verifiy that the passing visors will fit. If anyone is willing to trade for the whole set, or even just the headlight visor let me know. http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk86/jason1gp/venture/IMG_1924.jpg
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I am wanting to add some LED accent lights to my '89 VR. I have read through the threads, online searches etc. What I am looking for is ideas of where to place them. I know I want under carriage ground effects but also how to best show of the lines of the VR around the engine and front etc. I plan on taking out my damaged side panel vents and replacing with clear lexan and the light the engine. My bike is the pearl white version and want to go with blue. What other areas do others highlight? I have not found many pictures of other VRs. Also, recommendations on the LED types, wattage etc. Thanks. Gary
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I am in the middle of changing out the side reflectors for LED's. Now the lights i bought from JPCycles.com came with two wires...a yellow and a black. I have read the other threads and I am curious about something... When i was messing with the wires on the bike, i discovered if i hook one of the wires to the running lights and the other to a turn signal, i get a running light that will flash when i hit the turn signal. Can someone explain why/if it would be bad for the electrical system if i hooked the wires up this way?
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