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Showing results for tags 'light'.
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Hey all. I just joined up a couple weeks ago, found many helpful tips in the forums already! Now I need some help from the collective experience pool. I am in the middle of a mini vacation (run down the Oregon coast) and my tail lights are out. I got pulled over for it lastnight and now I'm stranded in Yachats. By the way, the police in Newport Oregon are a really nice bunch of guys! Anyway, my bike is an 89, I have been getting an intermitent warning light on the dash, sometimes it blinks, sometimes solid. I kept checking my headlight. I've checked the fuses on top of the battery and they are all good. I know I should spend more time checking old posts before asking but I'm trying to salvage the happy fun time part for my wife kids and granddaughter while dealing with this at the same time. So, any advice is welcome and just ask for what ever details that might help. I will be checking in as often as I can. thanks in advance, Robert
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Front brake light switch
coltrain posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
My front brake handle - mastery cyl isn't generating my brake light. I have looked on bikebandit parts diagrams to purchase the new switch and lo and behold I picked the wrong part. Diode? Anyways, was wondering if anyone had the right part number for this bad boy before I throw anymore money away! -
So the other day, my headlight refuses to come on after the bike starts. It has happened before, but it has always resolved itself. This time...nothing. Good thing I have fog lights. So I start taking things apart. I thought it might be the HID light I just installed but a standard H4 refused to light as well. Long story shorter; it was the starter switch. It was refusing to return all the way after use. There is a tiny gap between the spot where the light turns off and the starter lights. It was stuck in that spot. It would start but wouldn't light the lights. A little lube and all is well. -
Something I don't understand. I have a mini-mag light, and put the conversion kit on it to make it a LED flashlight. Powered by 2-AA batteries. Man, that makes some light. Has 3 LED bulbs in it. How come can I not get that brightness from LED lights on the back of the bike?
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My Neutral light doesn't come on and as such I cannot let my bike idle while on the kickstand. This is even IF it is in neutral. Where do I look first?
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I have a '83 standard that I have been altering the electrical system since I got it last year. So far I have added the Shindengen R/R, a cooling fan run timer, a Internatrix security alarm, replaced the fuse box with a ATO style, moved the TCI onto the top of the airbox and today I would like to share the installation of a HID Bi-Xeon headlight. [ATTACH]37353[/ATTACH] I bought the HID kit on Ebay for only $58.00 and the shipping was free from Hong Kong. The package arrived in 6 days! I had followed the previous thread on the projector type headlight replacement but didn't like the change in the front look of the bike. I like the square headlight and I wanted to see if I could find a good H4 HID kit to increase the light output and longevity. I found this kit on Ebay Item number:170371397794 and I went ahead and purchased it. When it arrived, I was pleasantly surprised with the completeness of the kit and the ease of installation. [ATTACH]37354[/ATTACH] I decided to mount the slim ballast in the fairing next to the headlight frame using dual-lock mounting strip (super velcro!!). This makes it very accessable and adds cooling if neccessary. The included relay module (routes 12v direct from battery) was secured behind the left turn signal inside the fairing cavity. I use this space to mount additional relays for my drivinglights, dual fanfare horns and cooling fan timer relays. This space is easily accessed and fairly protected from heat and weather. I had previously installed a 20W halogen (type BA9s) light bulb into the metal headlight reflector. This gave me a daytime running light to reduce the unnecessary useage of the main headlight and reduced the amp draw on the charging system. I incorporated this smaller bulb into the new headlight circuit by installing a rocker switch on the left side fairing next to my 12v receptacle. The rocker switch selects between the 20W halogen daytime running light and the HID low beam setting (daytime or night selection). I have only had the HID system installed a short time but I am very pleased with the function. The HID bulb is tilted in it's socket by a solenoid to change between high beam and low beam. The bulb stays energized all the time so the light output stays constant. The bulb just tilts upward for the high beam. The kit is marketed for motorcycle use so I expect it should stand up to use on the Venture. Only time will tell.... -
OK I have the resistor connected to the BLINKER WIRE, and then to the same ground in the plug. The blinker blinks but no running light. Changer back to 1157 (with R still installed) and have blinker and running light as they should be. Change to DIFFERENT LED and (still) have blinker but no running light. 4 different LEDs do this. Doug
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05 Venture with 93K on the odo. Some extras like lights and Gps. I have a batt indicator light that after a few days of sitting showed the batt was low. Batt was over a year old so replaced it and now it still shows low after a few days. Bike will crank with yellow light have not let it get to red yet. So it looks like I have a slow batt drain somewhere or possible my light is defective but don't think so. I have done no troubleshooting so far was just wondering if someone knows a weak part on this bike for me to take a first look at?
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So I get my LEDs, get the load resistors installed, and now the polarity of the light socket is wrong. I got no running light and a dim blinker, reverse the bulb and Ii get the dim running light. I would like to pull the wires from the plug and reverse them, I know there is a little tongue in there that won't let the terminal come out the back of the plug housing, it works much like a wire tie locking mechanism, I'm SURE there is a $85.00 tool that will pop right in there and do what I need done, I'd rather cut wire and re-solder than spend that kind of money on this. Paper clip is too big, my 1.4mm precision screw driver is too big but will slip in along side the terminal end. So If I reverse the wires (one way or the other) what will (if anything) happen at the rear blinker? I don't think anything will... I'm just askin'. Any ideas? -
I have a 2008 RSV, I pulled up to a stop light one day when the light turned green I let out the clutch and the bike stalled out. When I looked down I had no power, I checked the main fuse and battery both were good. My neighbor looked on his phone while I was checking these, he said the ignition switch was notorious for going bad. I pulled the ignition switch cleaned it up, I put it back together and it worked fine. I rode for a week with no further problems, then getting ready to leave for work the same thing happened. I used a volt meter and checked the ignition switch sometimes it would make connection sometimes not, when I got the bike home I looked at the ignition switch again. I could get power and even got it to start a few times however I could never get the neutral light to come on. I put a universal switch on and get power to everything except I still do not get a neutral light and it will not turn over. I have checked the clutch switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch, automatic kill switch, manual kill switch, and the starter button. I suspect it is the ignition cut off relay or the ignitor, I have had no luck locating the ignition cut off relay and not sure if there is any way to test it if I did find it. Has anyone experiences this problem? I have a random short in the radio, not sure if it is in the remote head or the main radio. I did find it shorting out so I disconnected the radio, after looking at a wiring diagram I noticed what looked like a wire going into the radio so I pulled the fuse and reconnected the radio. This does not seem to effect anything I have looked at.
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So........... what do you think of the difference of my rear fender and tail light housing/light assembly now? The first 3 pics are the before.. and the last pic is the after.. I like it..
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Gear position Indicator upgradefor standard Ventures (Non-Royales) I have installed a gear position indicating system on my 1983 Venture. This is the stock model without the dash readout from the factory. This is the second Venture I have owned. The first one was a 1984 Royale. Two of the things I really miss from that bike were the gear indicator and the cruise control. The cruise control is coming later. I have all of the stock parts now needed to install it. I obtained a Neutral Switch Assembly from a 1984 Venture Royal through an Ebay auction for under $10.00. This assembly will exchange with the stock neutral switch assembly from a standard Venture. The neutral switch assembly is located between the back end of the stator cover and the front of the middle drive. It sets back in about four inches and is difficult to see, but is accessible. Removal of the middle drive cover is needed to access. To indicate what gear the bike is in I mounted three LED lights in the gauge cluster above the volt gauge. The left light is lit it indicates 1st gear. The left light and the center lights lit indicate 2nd gear. The center light lit indicates 3rd gear. The center light and right lights lit indicate 4th gear. The right light lit indicates 5th gear. The neutral light works as normal. In neutral none of the LED’s are lit. I could also use five LED’s, using one for each gear, but I like the 3 light system as it is easy to see and once familiar with the pattern, it is very easy to determine what gear I am in with a quick glance down at the gauges. I initially used a red, green and amber LED’s but the green and amber had poor visibility in the daytime. I replaced with all red ones. I also painted the part of the LED’s that are inside of the cluster with black paint to keep the light from the instrument cluster from bleeding through the LED’s translucent housing. I used four diodes and three LED’s from radio shack for the light logic circuit. Four IN4004 rectifier diodes. Price $.99 for two Three Red LED assemblies. Price $1.99 each The new Neutral Switch Assembly has a six pin plug on the end that sets in the same area that the stator and rectifier plugs are near the fuel pump. I had two spare diode assemblies that I have obtained in the past and used the plug from one of these to mate up with the plug on the Neutral Switch cable. I had to take one extra wire connector from the second diode assy. As the diode assembly plug only used five wires. You do not need to use this connector if you do not want to though. I retained this plug as I will be replacing the wiring harness when I install the cruise control. I put the diodes in the circuit near the plug connections on the end of the neutral switch assy. I then ran three 18 gauge wires up to the instrument cluster. I used a trailer four conductor plug I had to make a connection at the instrument panel. I have attached a PDF file with pictures and a wiring schematic to install this. -
I just found out that I have no brake light on my 85 vr when I pull the front brake. I am presuming this is the switch shot in the lever, has anyone done this and what is involved in replacing it? I would like to save a buck or two if I can do it myself. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Brian -
I have the Yamaha passing lamps on my 07 RSMV. I have also upgraded to the HID headlight. The HID is so bright, you can't even see the passing lights or they just barely appear kinda yellowish. I want to change them out for something that puts out more light and will hopefully be able to use the current Yamaha light bar. Any ideas?
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I just recieved my headlight AND brake light modulators. Where did you all mount yours and make the connections???? I heard you can access the brake light wiring under the seat.....and I'm going to be mounting the Yamaha passing lamps at the same time (useing the relay), so I assume I'll have to seperate the fairing....and that's Probably where I'll install the headlight modulator. Any tips or advise would be GREATLY appreciated. Thanks all!!
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Hi - I own a 1985 Venture with a computerized monitor - I just replaced the battery with a sealed version - nowhere to stick the sensor from the old battery - warning light is on on the dash - how do I "trick" the system to get rid of the light on the dash - tnx - Jim
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http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-RECTANGULAR-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productId=7724779&catalogId=&searchProducts=2040-0299 Now that I have the rear light bar on the bike I was replacing the bulbs & found the one of the sidemarker crystals has stripped screws so I can't replace that bulb yet. Of course my OCD is driving me nuts that I have a side marker out (even though I don't see it while driving). I want to pick up an extra crystal (this one is also scratched) before I try to extract the screw. I have nightmares of slipping & cracking the lens while using the screw extractor. So Does anyone know who made this light bar & what should I use for keywords on Ebay when looking for a spare. ( I assume they are no longer available). I think I may have found them...Anyone else bought these? http://www.aftermarketcyclepartsnation.com/Drag-Specialties-RECTANGULAR-TWIN-MARKER-LIGHTS-detail.htm?productId=7724779&catalogId=&searchProducts=2040-0299
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I'm still in the process of getting my '83 roadready. I did actually ride it for the first time the other day. She really runs nice considering I haven't had the carbs adjusted yet. The problem I'm having now is that the red warning light is always flashing. Where do I begin in the process of chasing down the problem?
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I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics. Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in. You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage. If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front." http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair *** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal GEN-7.5-30 $15.25 100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules" http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95 There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us. I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED. Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada. Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"
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Currently on my 84 I have a few lights added to the oem setup. I have: 1. the rear light bar which has 8 Baron mini twin running lights 2. a pair of 50 watt driving lights 3. a small amp for my MP3 I have the factory radio turned off. When I drive around with just the amp, the OEM lights & the markers on everything is good. If I turn on the driving lights on the charging drops below 12 volt at 3000 rpm. if I shut them off goes to 13.5. Obviously the light are too much for the charging system. I'm going to replace the bulbs from 2 - 50 watt to something lower. Can somebody tell me what would be the max wattage I should use? -
I recently purchased a used Roto Cover. I took it all apart and cleaned it up nicely including all the electric contacts. Each side has 2 pushin light bulbs. When putting it back together I noticed that the light bulbs have some differences. I've included a picture of the light bulbs. One has a blue dot in the center and a blacker tip where it pushes into the socket. My question is, are the differences of any concerns as to which one goes into which socket. A 2nd picture is attached of the sockets. One of the sockets has an extra wire that I think is the ground.
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When I look at the turn signals on the front, they stay lit all the time and flash for turn signals, the rear only flash for turn signals. Looking to add more light to the back, has anyone tried mounting front turn bodies on the rear and wired them as running and turn signals? -
I have a question for you all. I am looking at changing out the front reflectors for some LED marker lights. I had this crazy thought that I could maybe make them also part of the turn signals. I was reading on a nother site how a fellow connected a light bar something like what some of us are using for extra brake lights only his was a single function, but he made it dual as tail and brake light by adding some simple resistors and diodes available at radio shack. This is his diagrham. Substitue the turn signal for the brake in the pic. Could not find a 4003 number diode @ RS anymore so not sure what you would use limit wise. 330 ohm as long as it was 12v or more right? http://www.gadgetjq.com/ledbrake-run_circuit_single_image.gif (pic form Gadgets fix it page for Vulcans)
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Nina (my wife) was stopped at an intersection, waiting for the light to turn green. She was heading West. It turned green. Before she had a chance to go, two vehicles collided in the intersection, one of which plowed into our truck. What happened is, a person travelling south was stopped at their green waiting to turn left. They were not out in the intersection but still at the crosswalk. The light changed and they proceeded to make the left turn. Totally illegal ... they should not have moved but rather, stayed at the crosswalk. At the same time, another driver was heading north failed to stop for the red light and plowed into the left turning vehicle. The impact caused one of the vehicles to careen into our truck... my wife... who had not even moved yet. Point being I guess is, sometimes there isn't a damned thing you can do to avoid being hit. So, y'all be careful out there at those interestions. http://gl1800riders.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=73085&stc=1
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Ive got a Yamaha light bar on my 2005 RSTD. One of the driving lights got busted in it. Anyone know of an aftermarket 4 1/2" sealed beam light or replacement light I can replace it with? Yamaha said they're on back order till Oct ? Cheers, Steve
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