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Showing results for tags 'level'.
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i made a short video when i was setting and checking the float levels on a set of 28mm carbs and wrote of how i did it for some of the guys on delphi forum and thought i would post it here too.there's a way i do it and it has worked out good on the last several sets im have fixed for others and redid mine while i had them off, all you have to do is when you have the carbs torn down, put all the float and needle assembly together, turn them upside-down so the float is up, jiggle the carbs so the floatsts bounce around a little so they are seated in place and not binding. while you still holding them upside-down, hold them right in front of you and look to see if both floats are level with each other, several i have done has been uneven, if they are uneven, take two small pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold the arm near the middle where the needle valve is and use the other pair to bend easlily the arm on the far float to equal level, make sure to hold needle valve off the seat so it not down and possillely mess it up or take it out and bend it and put back in. after you are sure they are pretty level across the 2 floats then make sure the needle valve is set down on seat and measure from the edge of bow to the top of the floats and it should be between 8 to 9 mm,(i try to get mine nearer to 9mm). i usually check it on both sides of the set of floats just to be sure i've got them level as i can. checking them out the way the book says to do it is way too hard fro me to do. one of the guys near me wants to take his down and check them out on his 98 so i may try to do a video of it as there will be 2 of us.i'll let y'all know when we do it. try this link, let me know if it works. -
I've had my 2004 venture for right about a month now. I noticed a little oil under the crank case breather tube and discovered it was probably because the oil level was too high. I changed the oil and put a little less in than it had when I got it. Although it was still close to the top of the sight glass when the bike was level. The crankcase tube leak has stopped but now I've noticed twice during the past week or so oil dripping from near the left rear cylinder. Last night I pulled the oil filter and drained a little oil hoping that would solve my problem. I cranked the bike again just a little while ago and now its smoking pretty bad. Any thoughts or ideas on what could be causing the new leak and smoking? Advice on how to remedy this problem would be great as well. BTW this bike has a little over 64,000 miles now and I'm still running Amsoil 20W50 just like the original owner has for the life of the bike. Thanks
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I want to check the float level on my 89, and I've read the directions and other posts. If you've done this, how have you connected the tubing to the carb. drain screw so that it doesn't leak? I read where Yammie has a special tool for this, but I saw that it looks like Dingy had something just pushed into the hole that he was able to connect a hose to. What's worked for you? Frank D.
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What octane rating do you use? Does a higher rating make a difference in the performance level and maintenance of a Second Gen or late model RSTD motor?
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How do these come out. If one goes bad will it leak coolant into the oil and not leak to the outside by the spark plug. I noticed that the coolant level went down and added some and noticed that the oil level has came up. I just got this cycle and I hope that it is not junk it still sounds good no bearing noise so maybe I have caught this early enough. Orlin
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I have a friend who is visiting with his 87 Venture. He dropped the bike on the kick stand side a couple of days ago. No apparent damage, so he rode it for an hour after. Everything was fine. Today he was heading to my house and the oil level indicator came on along with the flashing red light. His oil level is at the top of the sight glass and was changed about 1000 miles ago. Does anyone know where the sending unit is for the oil level warning or have any ideas? Thanks ..... Peter
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On my Triumph, the gas filler cap is parallel to the ground so I can put a level on it to see if the bike itself is level. But is there anywhere on an RSV that I can put a level to check if the bike is level? Neither my garage floor nor my driveway are level - and by different amounts too. Andy
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I am going to put in the bypass for the battery level sensor on my '83 VR. I notice that there is already a resistor in the line. It looks factory. Do I remove this resistor when I put the new one in or do I just add the additional resistor? -
Your supposed to check the oil level with the bike standing up on a level surface, correct? IE not sitting on the kick stand? My bad but I'm checking the oil for the first time since buying the bike last week from the sealership. Either the stealership or the PO WAY overfilled the oil. I can't see the top oil level unless she's sitting on her kick stand!
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Okay.. as most know I just finished the overhaul of my front forks including the installation of Progressives ( man, are they worth it !!) . I had a question about the fork oil and from what I was told there was 2 ways to determine the "amount" of oil. First was the amount of 409cc's or 13 1/2 oz. The second, was 5 1/2 -inches from the top. The 5 1/2 inches was what most threads stated and what the instructions stated. That is what I installed the oil to. It was way more than 409cc's. Now, yesterday we installed Progressives in my friend's 83. We measured and installed 409cc's in each tube. They were not even, even close to even. So we pumped the lowers and then remeasured and the levels were even but not to 5 1/2 inches, more like 6 1/2+ inches below the top. Now, we read the manual, the threads, the Progressive instructions, and all though they all state to "pump the lowers to extract the old fluid, none state to pump the air out to measure the new fluid. It was obvious that when we installed his oil, air bubbles must have affected the 5 1/2 inch reading and leveled it out after pumping the air out. None of the info we could read, stated what the level from the top should be once they are "pumped" For example, if you just wanted to check you levels of existing oil, to what level should the oil be at from the top ?? It seems that there should be a level statement as to before pumping and after. I had the same issue of non level measurements when I poured in my oil before pumping the lowers. It probably took about 15 + oz to level mine out to 5 1/2 inches below. We left his at 6 1/2 inches below with the original 409cc's. So what am I missing here ? -
When syncing the carbs on my 86 lst Ed, I can get all four carbs to be perfectly level at about 24 bars onmy Carbtune but at higher rpms, up around 3500 or 4000 or so, they are no longer anywhere being level. I have no vacuum leaks. Even when riding at 65/70 mph it feels like they aren't balanced. I hook up the Carbtune and at idle they are still perfect. Run the r's up while sitting there and same result.......not balanced at higher rpms. Otherthan than this, it seems to runs strong. Compression on all cylinders is about even 165 to 175. Just would like some comments regarding if this sort of thing is normal. I do have a second set of "just gone through" carbs and may try mounting those to see what happens. But that is a lot of work just to see "what happens". Thanks
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Hello, I disassembled and cleaned out the carbs last weekend per the service manual. To make sure I didn't miss something, I've been going through the forum threads and articles. "mbrood" did a Carb Overhaul write-up in Tech section. In the 3rd to last paragraph he talks about the "The factory-set needle-valve screw..." The problem is, I have no idea what he's talking about. I'm concerned that I screwed in something too tight and ruined the needle valve now. Everything I unscrewed was TIGHT, so I put them back normal tight. I understand the needle valve and float relationship. He talks about a spring loaded screw for adjusting fuel flow. I don't understand what screw he's talking about. Can you guys help? Any references in the manual pages/pictures/ID numbers would really help. Regarding float level, it never dawned on me to check or adjust for this change. I understand the principle of putting fuel in the carb and letting the float rise up to shut off flow. I don't understand (1) why fuel level is so critical in the bowl (I thought it just had to have enough fuel in there to be able to maintain flow... assuming more was better) and (2) how to know where the float is at shutoff point when the bowl cover has to be on in order to fill the bowl. How do you get the float to remain stationary so you can check it's position? I read Squidley's recent thread on float level, and understand what he's measuring, but what has to happen at that level - start compressing the float needle valve spring? Or just making contact with the float needle valve? I'm (obviously) very new to carb work and appreciate your time and input. I'm anxious to learn though Many thanks in advance! -
Went out to work on the bike today, to check on all of the little things that have been bugging me. After finshing up, just before putting my side cover back on i noticed an oil leak which appears to be coming from the head gasket. About a month ago(some of you may recall), i had my oil changed and went on a 300 mile day trip. a few days later i went to check my oil and could not see the oil level through the site glass. It turned out that they had overfilled the oil. I drained it to the appropriate level and have ridden it for a month without any issues. My question is: Could this have been enough to blow a head gasket? There appears to be oil around the rubber carb boots as well.
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Hey KIC, Welcome to the VR.ORG Forum, you're home brother! The 1989 VR is the last year of the "Old Style" TCI in 1990, Yamaha went to the "improved version". This should not be a problem, plenty of them out there! (1984 to 1989 all fit) Check all three brake rotors for "bluing", which means that they have been overheated from a dragging Caliper. The left front and rear Rotor are not available from Yamaha any more, and were spendy when they were. This bike is also the last year that came with the "Two Brush" starter motor. 1990 to 1993 had the "4 brush starter". Run the bike for a while, shut it off, and try to restart it. If the starter drags, you will need to address this issue once you have purchased it. I have seen these bikes get 300,000 miles with proper care, so at 65,000 miles I would have a good close look at the front fork seals, (thin, black oil ring above the lower aluminum fork tube) be sure to check BOTH tubes! Also steering head bearings will start to be an issue at this mileage point, check them closely. Check the coolant overflow bottle which is located under the "door" above the CB Radio on the upper right side of the fairing. If the bottle is empty, then you have a "weeper" coolant system. Have a close look at the "fish eye" glass in the front Brake and Clutch Master Cylinders, if the fluid is not clear like water, (cola colored) then this service you speak of that was done 2K ago, is BS! Since you can't see into the rear Master Cylinder, I would "draw" a sample of the brake fluid from the rear reservoir and check the color. (looking for clear color here) Remove the false tank cover and remove the fuse box lid, if any fuses are missing, or are "jumpered" with wire, then this is a major issue, but can be repaired. Remove the air box cover and check the air box for engine oil in the bottom of the box, and bugs and dirt in the air filter folds. Put the bike on the center stand and roll both tires, listening for dragging calipers and dry bearings. Sit down behind the rear of the bike, and hold on to the chrome side bag guard, and place your right foot on the rear tire. (bike in 1st gear helps) Push side ways on the tire firmly, you are looking for the tire and swing arm to move sideways, meaning the swing arm bushings and or bearings are shot! If this bike has spent most of it's life in AZ., then it has seen some pretty high coolant temps. Look under the water pump, at the weep hole, (right side of bike, in front of and below the foot brake) for signs of anti-freeze staining or leakage. While you are there, look at the front of the water pump where the "Elbow" exits the water pump and turns left to the Thermostat Housing, MAKE SURE that the engine crash bar has not cut a gash in this plastic elbow! If there is a gash on the plastic elbow, then most likely, this bike has been down on the right side at some point. Check right side fairing corner for cracking. With the bike on the center stand, start the bike and let it run until the electric fan comes on. If the temp gage gets close to the red area with no fan turn on, (fan should come on at 3/4 on temp gage+/- a bit) then this bike has been ridden HOT in stop and go traffic. While on the right side of the bike, look below the water pump for the "oil level sight glass". With the bike not running, the oil level must be half way up the sight glass. If the oil level is too high and there is no oil level line, then don't return to the dealer that did the 2K service. If the sight glass is so "foggy" that you can't see the oil level at all, this is a sign that the oil changes have been neglected. Everything mentioned here can be corrected. The point of this inspection is to see if the current owner is being honest with you about the condition of the bike. If everything checks out OK, with NO broken plastic, then this is a $3500.00 bike. If you can't see the oil level, it has at least one blued rotor, the water pump elbow has a gash in it, and the right side fairing has damage at the corner, and the coolant overflow bottle is dry, then this is an $800.00 bike, and will be a $2700.00 bike when you repair everything. Because the owner wants to sell this motorcycle, he/she will say "anything" to make the sale. Print this sheet off, check everything mentioned, deduct for the issues found, and if he is still firm on the price once you have proved that the 2K service is BS. Then WALK AWAY! In my honest opinion, paying $800.00 for an 89'VR and putting $1700.00 into it to cherry it out is a "fun winter project"! Paying $3500.00 for the same bike and putting $1700.00 into it just to get it to stop and go properly is getting RIPPED OFF! My thoughts, for what they are worth. Again, welcome to the VR.ORG forum KIC, you've got some "homework" to do my friend. Earl
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I recently swapped the rear gears to the VMax set and WOW what a great improvement in accelleration. What would be the next investment that you guys would recommend to take it to the next level of performance? -
I have an '83 venture that has the left hand muffler end piece just about rusted through. Is it possible to just replace end caps or is it necessary to replace entire muffler? What would bst and easiest replacement be. (I do not really want to increase Db level). I have Jardines on my '90 RSV which are a bit loud, but seem to have misplaced them OEM'S !!
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I have a 1st generation.The oil indicator on the dash is always on.My oil level in the sight glass is where it is supposed to be.My question is can I bypass the oil sending unit?I have soldered the display unit.
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Just lowered my 06 Venture front forks 1.5 inches had already installed the Barons lowering kit on the rear. Now the bike is finally level and handles like a Harley Ultra without the engine heat. I ride alot on the BlueRidge Parkway and use the scenic parking lots to park which are not level ground by no means. Does anyone know of another Yamaha kickstand only shorter that can bolt on an 06 Venture. Please don't recommend the Baron shorty stands--- they don't have the ground foot like Yamaha.
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My choke level on my 89 VR moves to the left really, really hard. Any suggestions as to what I might spray into the cable. My 1st guess would be WD 40?
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I am thinking of setting up a M&E for somewhere in the Milwaukee area. I have been noticing that there are a few members in this area. I was planing to shoot for sometime in March to give a chance to meet each other just before the riding season starts. I do not have a specific place or date in mind just yet, it may depend on the level of interest as to how much space will be required and when everyone is available. So, watcha think??? I would sure like to match a few more faces to the names.
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With the motor cold, on its side stand, what should the Oil level be in the Glass window?
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I had the pleasure of going to Don's maint day in Ohio last year. It was quite spectacular. Seems like most of the maint days are quite far away from KC. Wanted to guage the interest level of having a main day in Kansas City. I am a novice with limited tools and even less skill. I have a 2 car garage and no where to camp (live in a neighborhood). Pretty sure my neighbors would be fine with us parking our motorcycles all over for a day. Wanted to see what the interest level would be in a one day or 2 day if you would like maint day in KC. Look forward to your thoughts. -
It is not my fault that Tom made the Big Bend run on a new Goldwing. It is not my fault that my wife fell in love with the bike...ok, so did I. It is not my fault that when we stopped in at a Honda dealer for rainsuits that they had an '07 Goldwing...level three that we would really like. I guess it is MY fault that we ended up buying it, though. I hope I will not be disowned by this group...
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I have had for 15+ years a mercury sync stick. Lately during sync's on my venture, I have noticed a 'clear' substance, of different amounts, rises in the tubes above the mercury, and got me wondering when I sync'd, lineing up the mercury line, if I was really in true sync-ie:is the clear substance changing the vacum level imposted on the mecury? So today I decided to check calibration, went to fish store an got 5 way hose adapter, and applied vacum with pump up mityvac. My mercury lines are off a little +-.5", but more interesting, I had to apply continous vacum, as vacum bleed off fast, and was unable to hole mercury at a constant level to be sure where mercury was really at. Considering opening mercury tank and removing the clear substance, and vacum test all the lines/tubes. Q. Is it normal for sync sticks to bleed vacum? Supposedly thru the liquid mercury pool
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We got to ride this week, but it wasn't for the fun of it. We helped my son move all his belongings back home from Fort Drum. The ride was on I-90 and 86. Talk about boring! The fence along the thruway is like a impenetrable wall, grown over with vegetation so seeing anything but pavement is not going to happen. He is leaving for the other sandbox, rock pit later this month for a year. He finally gets to a base after 14 yrs that we thought that we would be able to visit him at regularly and now this. Can't complain to much, he has grown into a very level headed man. Just wish he'd hurry up and marry so there would be more grand kids to spoil! Oh yeah, the 86 purred like a kitten 45 mpg at 72 mph, God I love this bike!
