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Showing results for tags 'leak'.
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I've had my 2004 venture for right about a month now. I noticed a little oil under the crank case breather tube and discovered it was probably because the oil level was too high. I changed the oil and put a little less in than it had when I got it. Although it was still close to the top of the sight glass when the bike was level. The crankcase tube leak has stopped but now I've noticed twice during the past week or so oil dripping from near the left rear cylinder. Last night I pulled the oil filter and drained a little oil hoping that would solve my problem. I cranked the bike again just a little while ago and now its smoking pretty bad. Any thoughts or ideas on what could be causing the new leak and smoking? Advice on how to remedy this problem would be great as well. BTW this bike has a little over 64,000 miles now and I'm still running Amsoil 20W50 just like the original owner has for the life of the bike. Thanks
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I have read all the information on first generation water pumps. My 86 has a small amount of coolant that has dripped out the weep hole on the water pump. I assume it will get worse as time goes on. Bike has 84,000 or so on it. It left about a tablespoon of coolant on the floor since I rode it about a month or so ago. What are the chances of a catastrophic failure, that is similar to old automotive water pumps with graphite seals? If I do rebuild it, should I change both the mechanical seal and the oil seal while I have it apart? I think it is the mechanical seal that stops the impeller shaft from leaking. If I rebuild, I plan on new o rings on the elbow and thermostat housing. -
Has this every happened to anyone before? This one has me a bit perplexed. My 85VR, the output shaft to which the drive axle yoke bolts on to the engine (left side of middle gearbox just behind rubber boot) retaining bolt snapped clean off laying in boot. The only indication I had, that sent me looking was a recent oil leak on the left side. It most likely happened somewhere during my recent 4000km trip, probably on the way back. Can't remember anything taking place except I came back loaded up a bit heavier than going down. Looks like a winter job and might as well pick up the second gear pieces as well although she is not currently due. I wonder if it is any issue driving it for a bit as long as the oil leak does not worsen? I guess I made it for the last 1000 miles since I noticed the leak. At the moment it can't go anywhere but it can work on the output shaft as it is not under torque. Thought I would share that little gem with you all, who knows I could be the first! Lucky me! P.S. I did install the engine about 15,000 miles ago as a replacement and it could have been damaged by someone previously, but it is strange that it would last so long and then break. There was no partial cracks that showed rust, just a clean fresh break.
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Just My luck....going to be near 75 tomorrow, was going to ride the bike to church in the A.M. and then go for a ride. Went in the shop to check on the bike and found a coolant leak around the left rear cylinder cover. Pulled the side cover and discovered, it appears that the plug is leaking. There are threads in the plug but no bolt. Is there supposed to be a bolt that holds the plug in ? If so what size? Thanks, Mel
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So, it looks like there is a very slight seeping leak around the top of the thermostat housing. But, the biggest leak that showed up is where the tube that comes between the "valve" and goes into the side of the thermostat housing. This seems to be a pretty good leak that just started after changing the coolant. Is there a "kit" that has all the o-rings and gaskets for the thermostat housing, or do I need to purchase each one separately ? Any input from others that have done this, what looks like a real pain in the @$$ job ?
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My '02 RSV seems to have developed a slight fuel leak. The leak is a slight drip coming from the end of an allen bolt. You can see the drop in the attached pic. What is the assembly that the bolt holds? Anybody have any idea of how to fix this? That assembly looks like a pain to remove! Any help is much appreciated.
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Ok so I had the coolant leak at the drain valve, so I repair that with sky_docs kit. No more leaking there. When I leave the bike sit overnight there is nothing leaking, until I start it, then it leaks a little and stops. Will not leak any more the rest of the day no matter how long it sits, or how cool the outside temp is. Did not have this leak before. Any ideas? I am going to pull the lower chin fairing off tomorrow before I start it to see where it is coming from. has anyone had this happen before?
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exhaust leak: Want cheap fix
Auld posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I've got an exhaust leak right out of the rear cylinder on the right side. Took off the clamp and saw the metal ring somewhat rusted, so it doesn't fit tightly any more. I would like to fix this without taking the whole bike apart. Someone suggested JB Weld. I've used it before in different applications, but not in such a hi-temp spot. Will it work where the exhaust is coming through at its hottest? Is there some kind of RTV caulk that will stand these temps? -
I just finished replacing the stator on my 87 VR. Thank God for the volt meter on the dash, it allowed me to notice that I wasn't getting charging voltage before it was too late, and I rode the bike home on battery power. What a pain this job is! The stator part is typical - remove the cover, replace the stator, deal with the little rubber plugs where the wires go through. But, as has been noted, the screws holding the stator inside the cover are SUPER TIGHT with Loctite. The gasket was like a piece of granite bonded to the cover - very difficult to remove. And finally, there's the little cavity behind it with all the oil leak opportunities. Ya know, behind the cosmetic flange on the bearing cover behind the stator cover? Mine was an oily mess. I found on this fine website that oil can leak from either of the wire plugs in the stator cover, the gear selector switch, the shift shaft, the clutch slave cylinder installation, or the gaskets themselves. And all of these are packed into a tiny area too small to see, much less work in, which was difficult to clean out because my engine was sitting open with two covers removed and I didn't want crap to get in there. There's also 4 wire bundles that go through there, plus a convoluted shifter design with TWO linkage rods, 4 heim joints and a jackshaft! No wonder the shifter on this bike is not the smoothest I've ever used. I was pretty sure my leak was not coming from the clutch cylinder. That left the gaskets, gear switch o-ring, wire bundles and shift shaft as possibilities. I was already replacing the gaskets and redoing the wire bundles. The gear switch o-ring was low-hanging fruit, so I did it. As others reported, I found one of three retaining screws missing and another loose. Re-installed with Loctite. I did not do the shift shaft seal because, frankly, it looks like a total pain to do and I didn't wanna! I am hopeful that the leak was not there. Well, the good news is that it runs great, charges great, but dunno yet about leaks. I installed the hi-output Rick's stator. They don't list it, but I learned about it here; it is in their Hot Shot series. They don't really give any specs on what to expect in terms of increased performance. I can tell you that by 2000 rpm it's generating 14.75 volts at the battery, even with the driving lights on (stock regulator). Even by 1500 rpm with the driving lights and heated grips on it's getting up over 13V, where charging is starting to happen as opposed to battery drain. I never drive it below 2000 rpm except idling at signals. I don't have any "before" data to compare it to, but my impression is that I am getting more charge at lower rpms. I know that before, if I had my driving lights and heated grips on and was running around town I would gradually deplete the battery. Thanks to all who have contributed to stator and oil leak info on this site. That info makes all the difference when doing the job. Happy New Year, Jeremy
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I have a gas leak coming out of the drain tube front left next to radiator. Leak only occurs when bike is running. It is an 05 RSV. I have taken the quad carbs completely off, cleaned all the floats and needles....Put it all back together and was going for a ride but again the leak......Any thoughts????
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Well its for sure the head gasket I pulled the head today and found a gasket that was in bad shape. The heads looked good and the cylinders look good. But I am wondering about the bearings the engine still sounded good but I have no idea of how long it had been drove this way. I did find that they had put stop leak in it so I am sure the PO new about this and thats why he traded it off, Is there a way to test the other head with out pulling it . Orlinhttp://0358/
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Got my 1990 Venture home today. It will need some tlc, tires, battery, the normal stuff. It also has a leak at the thermostat housing. Why would this leak? One of the worst things is the handling. It has a Dunlop CruiseMax on the front, and an Elite on the rear. When coming to a stop, the whole front end shudders like it has an octagonal shaped tire or something. Whole bike feels just generally wobbly and mushy. A cursory inspection reveals a few loose bolts. So I think I'm gonna strip off the bodywork and tighten EVERYTHING. And maybe some solid or urethane motor mounts. Combing through the forums looking for a plan of attack. Otherwise, I think the Venture and I are going to make lots of memories.
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How do these come out. If one goes bad will it leak coolant into the oil and not leak to the outside by the spark plug. I noticed that the coolant level went down and added some and noticed that the oil level has came up. I just got this cycle and I hope that it is not junk it still sounds good no bearing noise so maybe I have caught this early enough. Orlin
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I have a 2000 Royal Star Venture and I have a leak that is making me crazy. Yamahas are not supposed to leak. It forms a pool on the lower shock and drips. I recently changed the clutch fluid. Is this the slave cylander leaking?
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A friend of mine suggested that I use Hylomar universal blue non-hardening gasket sealant to cure my alternator cover leak. After looking it up on-line, it looks like it'd be great. Anybody ever use it? http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm Frank D.
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I just took my bike out of storage and noticed I have an oil leak from the top rear cylinders. I am planning on getting a valve adjustment in the near future if I can get an appointment. Is there anything I can do now to stop it or just leave it till they do the valves? Thanks Much Keith
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Swapped Neutral Switch, for cracked gear position switch...works perfect, no leak from here anymore....now to stop the other leaks.
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I recently replaced my front brake pads with a set of kevlars and flushed the fluid. I now have excellent brakes. The bike will stop on a dime. The problem is the master cylinder has a leak when the bike is sitting from the handle side of the plunger. I am not getting any air into the brake system and as I said the brakes work flawlessly. The leak is not fast but fast enough that if left untouched the master will go from 2/3rds full to empty in about a month. Does anyone have a quick fix for this or is a rebuild in the only fix? Thanks, Ray. -
Is there anyway to fix the radiator on my 07 Venture. The leak is right on the seam of side the unit.
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I have a brother that just purchased a very well taken care of '86 Goldwing. It puffs some blue smoke at cold start-up for a few seconds. He was told to try Bars Leaks engine stop leak with conditioner. He's wondering if it will mess with the clutch plates. With the wealth of knowledge on this site, maybe you'd have some comments. Thanks Ventureriders. Brian in Mankato, MN 2000 RSV
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Well, I installed a new shock on the back of my 1st gen. That went well. I also decided to grease the splines on the drive shaft while I was there, now low and behold I have an oil leak at the rubber boot which according to the parts diagram looks like the drive shaft seal right before the u-joint. Anybody have any insight on the replacement of that seal? Also, my twinkie has started leaking. I'm sure a lot of curse words (Even some I may have to make up) will be used. I also have a little leak by the clutch slave cylinder or stator cover, not 100% sure yet. Any help would be greatly appreciated. -
During my bike cleaning today i decided to try to clean the clutch sight glass. I used a screw driver to lightly scrape away the thick oxidation. Then the problem, fluid began to leak from the center of the glass. Can i repair this with sometype of glue or adhesive. I'd really hate to go through the sight glass replacement process. -
Hi. I found I have a slight leak from my rear wheel valve where it goes inside the rim. I managed to seal one on another wheel (I have two rear wheels and alternate them on new tyres) but this one is SOLID. It is a very slow leak but the tyre had lost a good amount of pressure since October when it was laid up. I managed to seal the first leak by removing the two locking nuts and cup from the valve and pushing the valve inwards allowing air to escape and clean the seating by moving the valve assembly from side to side but as I say this one is SOLID.. Firstly to find out if you have a leak spray some water/washing up liquid mixture and look for the tell tale sign of small bubbles. This leak has happened to both of my wheels now due to corrosion. Secondly I have not seen how the valve fits into the inside of the rim as I have my tyres fitted for me and I cannot find anything in the manuals that shows how the assembly fits. I PRESUME I know how but presumption can be dangerous so your excellent help would be much appreciated. Many Thanks. Neil. (Old Miner).
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The Drain Pipe has no room for me to seperate at the leaking joint. At the Bottom the Drain Pipe goes into the cement floor. Above the Drain Pipe has a T for the Vent and the horizontal drain connection to the sink/dishwasher. This drain connection goes through the 2 x 6 and so the drain Pipe hole has absolutely no give in it. So see attachment for my solution. 1st picture is the leak at the 1st picture at the point where the vertical pipe goes into the curve piece. 2nd picture is my plan of the fix. By so doing it provides me some give so I can make all the connections. Anyone see any issue with the solution?
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Hi all. My 99 developed an oil leak from the rear valve cover a few months ago. Its now to the point I need to take care of it. I figure if I have to take all that stuff off to fix the leak, I might as well do the valves, although not looking forward to it. So now Im looking for a shim kit and tool to do the job. If anyone has one they can lend me I would certainly appreciate it. Bill
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