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Showing results for tags 'joints'.
Found 9 results
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Hello everyone! Our bike did not pass the safety test because of an exhaust leak... I took it apart, it was leaking BIG at the rear cylinders which I fixed with new seals and a good cleanup. Then it was leaking at the 6 joints around the collector box... I tried the copper sleeves recommended on VR.org but couldn't get it to fit right so I went to our local Yammy dealer and bought the six OEM seals. It all fit so well together, but still leaks at the two joints at the front and the two heading out to the tail pipes. GRRRRRRRR I can't plate it and ride it if it ain't passed safety. How can I seal these joints if a new seal isn't doing it? I've wire brushed the whole collector box and it looks real good. No leaks, no cracks, no black marks, I even painted it silver with high-heat paint so I could see if and where it's leaking... the box is not leaking. But the joints, with new seals is still leaking. HELP, please, please, please.
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I just purchased a bottle Of Australian Clear PK4 from Australia for Arthritis ,Muscle and Joints Remedy for the Cost Of $65.00 You ever heard of it ???
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http://www.smokechasing.com/ $25 to sign up, and you then try to meet certain goals set by the tour-- Rider must visit a minimum of 15 BBQ Joints to be considered a Smoke Chasing Grand Tour finisher. Finisher Levels are: a) Griller Visit 3 different states & eat at 5 different BBQ joints in each state b) Smoker Visit 5 different states & eat at 3 BBQ joints in each state c) BBQ Pit Master Visit 15 different states & eat at 1 BBQ joint in each state .
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What do you guys use to lube the shift linkage ball joints? I have heard mention of DriSlide. The website won't send to a home address business only. Somebody told me they use chain lube. What is the best choice? -
I had an opportunity to resolder the circuit board in a spare CMOS unit from my original MKI instrument cluster. I was able to get a fairly good close up picture of an example of some cold solder joints that I thought I would post. This may be helpful to someone that has never seen a cold solder joint. There are 8 large connections in picture that all show some signs of a cold joint. The circular ridge around the base of the soldered joint is the sign of a cold joint. The worst case is the far right joint. The smaller connections in the upper right corner are good solder joints. For a size relationship, the large row of 4 joints is 3/4" in length. Gary
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Here is a new listing on ebay for a set of 4 new carb joints for 1st gen bikes. Buy it now price of $79.99 + $15.50 shipping. These go for around $45 to $50 apiece from the discount suppliers. The clamps are not supplied and I doubt O-rings are either. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-XVZ12-XVZ13-VENTURE-ROYALE-INTAKE-CARB-HOLDERS_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem588711e922QQitemZ380223220002QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories Ebay item # is 380223220002 if link doesn't work. Gary -
I have a `97 Ford F250HD w/287k on the clock..... question is, The front tires are leaning in at the top.... how do I tell if its upper and lower ball joints or what?? I just put new tires on it so need to fix this asap, like today.... just hoping its not King pins. I have never had to do any front end repairs on it, so it probably really needs it with the miles I got on it. Thinking about just changing the ball joints out any way, as they are probably shot, it tracks straight when I let go of the wheel, and I don`t hear anything making noise.... any help would be great.. Thanks
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Hi, Ok so I have my new red '84 Std Venture's dash apart, as some light bulbs needed changing. Surprisingly ALL the dash illumination lamps were blown. This seems odd but OK, lets see what happens with new ones. My limited experience with this bike has shown me that there is some erratic behaviour with the CMS indications, brake / oil indicators coming on spuriously & intermittently etc. I recall reading here about bad solder joints on the CMS commonly causing such things, so I brought the CMS to work with me this morning where I have a good BIG magnifying work light, appropriate solder and a proper size iron for the job. (and a bit of free time thankfully. ) Now, I have done electronic QC work in the past so I know what bad solder joints look like and how to reflow the solder etc. Under close inspection, I didn't see any obviously suspect joints on the lower CMS board. I went ahead anyways, and gingerly reheated & resoldered all the joints on the bottom pc board, concentrating on the ones associated with the wiring connectors. (I can't recall when I worked on a board that bubbled so much when heated though!) All look good and shinny and solid now. While I have this unit on the bench, is there any thing else I have over looked that good practice calls for to make it happy and reliable again? BTW, although I get CMS indications for oil and brake occasionally, I have yet to see the red flashing warning indicator work. Any clues here ? All thoughts and suggestions welcome. Thanks, Brian H. Uxbridge Ont
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Today I put the class control back on the bike and it works like new again. I used the info from the tech libary and went through the circuit board. Found several loose or bad solder joints that needed re-done other than the seven joints listed in the information. The moral of this story is: Check all solder joints when doing this repair.....
