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Showing results for tags 'ignition'.
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Ok, I hope someone has a quick / easier / inexpensive fix for this one.. Because I park the bike in the garage over night with the key in the ignition, and seldom stop longer than a fuel stop when traveling, I just noticed that when I pull the key out, the little cover jobbie doesn't cover up the hole that the key fits into.. So if left out over night, and it rains, I'm going to be heading for some problems with rust and such and be out of an ignition switch / lock.. I've sprayed it with WD40 and other products but can't seem to make it move to cover the hole.. Thoughts, suggestions?
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I know it's been some time since I've posted, but the ole girl has been running well for several years now...until now. I just returned from a long motorcycle road trip (5k mi) and knew she needed a sync, which I did. No biggy. The real problem is that she's developed an intermittent misfire at idle. It's not bad, the idle just sounds uneven, and with the timing light you can see the spark skip every couple seconds when idling...and all 4 cylinders have the miss. If it was just 1 cylinder, that might be easier to diagnose. With all 4 cylinders sporadically missing, I'm at a loss. The bike has plenty of power, and runs like it should...except at idle. No backfires, no trouble starting, typical gas mileage. Has anyone ever noticed an intermittent miss like this, and might anyone have any guess as to the cause? Thank you for any suggestions you might have! -
Hey guys, New to the forum. Like the title says I'm having some issues with my 85 VR xvz12. My VR had run great for the last 2 years I've owned it, just had to fill her up, change the oil and go. But my son and I went for a short drive around central Washington and got caught in a freak rainstorm. We stopped and got under some shelter and afterwards the bike just wouldn't start. After about 2 hours of fiddling around with her, she just started up but ran like crap. The Tachometer was dead "at Zero", and she ran like she was on two cylinders. Got her home and blew her off with a leaf blower and wiped her dry. The following weekend, she was still running sick. So I pulled the battery and checked both coils (primary and secondary check), pickups, spark plugs, spark plug cables, emergency cut off switch, pickup coil, stand switch and the voltages were in the ballpark from my service manual. I then read a post from DonB about testing from the TCI connectors to see if there is a short in a wire, I followed his guide and didn't find any reason to think I had a short. So the old girl is still reading zero on the Tach, failing the fire on two cylinders, and starting is hit or miss. I'm at my wit's end really, I figure at this point it's the TCI. It sitting in its original horrible location, and I don't really know how or why I would want to take it out if I'm thinking about ordering a new SPARKER TCIP4 from IgniTech. Is there anything that I'm missing or have not thought of. I have scanned this forum pretty hard. PS: with the massive amount of information on this forum I'm gonna have to pony up the 12 bucks -
looking at the wiring diagram it looks like each plug is fired interdependently. Is there still a wasted spark firing on the exhaust stroke or can I time valve events off of the ignition signal? I am wanting to install fuel injection and i will need a signal that can be tied directly to a cam event if I want to use sequential injection instead of batch injection.
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Can someone please direct me to the thread to bypass the ignition switch if it fails on the road. I know I saw it here at one time but i'm having trouble finding it now. I would like to get to know this process to be able to at leaset get the bike home if the igniton switch fails. Thanks Everyone
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Has anyone else experienced this. I have an 07 RSV with 3800 miles on it. This problem just started over the weekend. As I was going down the road I tryed to turn on the radio and it wouldn't come on. Tryed the cb, same thing. It was like it wasn't getting power just a blank. So I pulled over, turned the ignition off and turned it back on and the radio worked. Since then it has done the same thing a few more times with the same results, Turn ignition off and back on and the radio works. Tryed wiggling the cable going to the radio and that didn't fix it. The only thing that works is to turn the bike off and then back on, press the on button and it works. Has anyone else had this problem? I'd like to give the dealership some type of direction to look, seeing that they don't work on too many of the Ventures. Any help is appreciated.
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while riding yesterday (5/16/15) the bike cutout a a stop sign. When restarting, it acted funny - electrically - dash went dead, then came back and started ok. No further problems yesterday. This morning, turned ignition key, and when I hit the starter button, all went dead. No lights, no nothing. Stayed dead. Battery reads 12.5+v at battery, and at 30A fuse (L rear under cover). Lifted the tank, and got 12.5+v on main red wire at connector (pinkish one) but nothing on the brown wire next to it. Getting under keyswitch looks to be daunting (so many covers...) but I'm suspecting that is the culprit, since nothing is live beyond it. I've read where the keyswitch has been a problem on some models. Is this one? I'm going to call the dealer in the morning, but he doesn't have a great service reputation.... Any thoughts form you folks?? Thanks,
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I am about to install a radio/amp on my '06 RSTD. I know I can wire the amp directly to the battery leads however i would prefer to have the radio controlled by the ignition switch. I'm looking for how to instructions. Any help would be much appreciated. -
It never ends, this shinola. Wanted to do a 50-miler today to start working up to a road trek, weather cooperating, up in the 50s. Left the house, went two miles to a gas station. As I was coasting up to the pump she just unceremoniously up and quit. Like I hit the kill switch. After the fork rebuild, triple tree grease job, clutch slave cylinder replace and assorted small jobs it also did this after it warmed up the first time. Just sitting in the driveway idling, then it just died. Ran the battery down trying to start it, so put the charger on and it fired off again after a couple minutes. Figured the battery had gotten down in the cold and down time since before Christmas and that it didn't leave enough juice for ignition. Then today it happened again. I have started my flyaway kit and had a socket set and a combo screwdriver in the trunk, so removed the top cover to look at the fuses and connections again. I know I have a broken spade on the ignition fuse, but it also controls the starter, which spins just fine. Tried wiggling wires and anything I could reach while cranking, no luck. Decided maybe it was a charging issue so I unplugged the headlight, put everything together again and suited up, just in case, hoping that maybe there would be enough volts without the headlight to get back home. She fired up, so I hopped on and prayed that the 3 lights between me and home would be green. They were, and I made it a mile before she quit again. Pushed it to a school parking lot, and this time I pulled the tail light bulbs. JUST TO GET HOME Y'ALL!! Anyway, she fired back up and I made it within 3 houses of home. Do-able. I've looked at everything including: the emergency cutoff switch, the side stand switch and relay, the wiring to the fuse block and TCI (Ignitech), I have a Radioshack digital meter but I'm beginning to suspect its voracity. Rode around the block for about 10 minutes with it hooked to the battery. I get 13.5 volts idling, then it drops to around 13.1 around 3000 rpm. Dash gauge shows the drop, too. I checked the resistance on the pickup coils and got 136, 272,272, and 267 ohms respectively, book says should be 110± 10%. So those are way off. Think I'll cruise by Radio Shack and see if they can check the accuracy of my meter... So there you have it, sorry for the long post. I've looked for corrosion and loose or broken wires. Battery is right at a year old and freshly serviced with acid. Still suspecting it's a charging problem the way the voltmeter is acting. I haven't check the voltage regulator yet but that's my next step. Thanks for your help! Richard
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I have a 2008 RSV, I pulled up to a stop light one day when the light turned green I let out the clutch and the bike stalled out. When I looked down I had no power, I checked the main fuse and battery both were good. My neighbor looked on his phone while I was checking these, he said the ignition switch was notorious for going bad. I pulled the ignition switch cleaned it up, I put it back together and it worked fine. I rode for a week with no further problems, then getting ready to leave for work the same thing happened. I used a volt meter and checked the ignition switch sometimes it would make connection sometimes not, when I got the bike home I looked at the ignition switch again. I could get power and even got it to start a few times however I could never get the neutral light to come on. I put a universal switch on and get power to everything except I still do not get a neutral light and it will not turn over. I have checked the clutch switch, kick stand switch, neutral switch, automatic kill switch, manual kill switch, and the starter button. I suspect it is the ignition cut off relay or the ignitor, I have had no luck locating the ignition cut off relay and not sure if there is any way to test it if I did find it. Has anyone experiences this problem? I have a random short in the radio, not sure if it is in the remote head or the main radio. I did find it shorting out so I disconnected the radio, after looking at a wiring diagram I noticed what looked like a wire going into the radio so I pulled the fuse and reconnected the radio. This does not seem to effect anything I have looked at.
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Rode my 89 1255 miles round trip from SE Iowa to Little Rock AR to a conference there. This is the first trip I've done like this and I have a lot more confidence in the bike and myself now. Anyway, after having lunch and a brief snooze on the grass (anybody else do that when they ride?) I turned the key, hit the ignition and NOTHING! Rats! Must be that electrical short and the battery went dead while I was sleeping. I went into the restaurant & the owner offered to give me a jump. We hooked up the cables and again NOTHING. Now what could it be? As I asked him to check his connections I happened to look at the red toggle switch that I never use on the left handle bar. YUP! The kill switch was off. So I said to the good samaritan, without mentioning my serreptitious red button correction, "Maybe it is connected right now" and hit the ignition with the now clearly unnecessary jumper cables still attached. And it started. Amazing. I thanked the good fellow and quickly drove away after reassembling the cover and tank bag and dressing with gratitude that I hadn't spent $100 and called a local garage. Duh. BTW, I love the twisties in AR.
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when I push the start button down the lights draw down and it blows the ignition fuse . The main wire going to ignition switch on side of bike gets very hot when key in on position. Any ideas ? I have replace the starter relay and the starter cut out relay Please help... -
I experienced electrical gremlins last fall on my 1990 Royale. Strange behaviors. Too intermittent to diagnose specifically, but there seemed to be some relationship to the ignition switch and/or the "IGNITION" fused circuit. I know that ignition switch problems are not very frequent on First Generation Ventures, unlike the Second Gens, never the less I felt I may be having an issue with mine. So to cure possible problems with IGNITION fuse and the ignition switch, I replaced the OEM fuse block with a new fuse block that accepts ATC fuses and I added an "ACCESSORIES" auxiliary block. This auxiliary accessories fuse block is only energized when ignition switch is at ACC or ON. To prevent excessive current draw through the ignition switch, I fed the auxiliary accessories block via a 30Amp relay and 10GAuge wire. When the OEM ACC circuit is energized by the ignition switch, the relay is energized, closing the circuit from the battery to the positive lug post on the auxiliary accessories fuse block. To avoid grounding issues for added accessories, I created a common grounding terminal strip. This terminal strip is connected to the negative post of the battery with a short length of 10GA wire. The terminals on the terminal strip are electrically connected to each other with a heavy brass buss. The fuse blocks and terminal strip are mounted to the unvented maintenance free battery with double face foam "Gorilla" tape. The battery top presented a smooth surface for mounting via tape. This method probably wouldn't work for conventional batteries. I relocated the MAIN fuse to just in front of the Positive battery post. I relocated the CLASS fuse holder to under the other OEM fuse block that contains the AUDIO, BACKUP,etc. fuses for now, but I intend to utilize the remaining fuse position on the new "main fuse block" for the CLASS. Thank you, Earl for the fuse block.
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Hi all. Still can't get my XVZ1200 84 model to run, I've sorted out the TCI unit, thanks Mike, and cleaned the carbs but it still refuses to start. I think I'll check and reset the ignition timing tomorrow, weather permitting. I think the problem's with the ignition timing because when the bike's turning over it's missing, giving out a loud bang every other spin, so that points straight to the ignition timing, right???
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There's been several times members here have by passed their ignition switch due to either switch failures or as a preventive to ward off failures. Today I decided to also do that to my bike and at the same time do a write up on it per a recent posting on this topic. For those who wonder why this is needed or desired the ignition switch has the majority of the power going thru one wire to feed lights and ignition requirements. Needless to say the switches contacts take a beating over time caused by overheating & normal wear & tear. The accessory part of the switch seems to never have this type of failure so this does lend credence to overloading on the one line being feed. By adding in a common 30 amp auto relay to that part of the circuit we can take the majority of the power off the switch before it gets there and route it directly to the line the switch powers, thus saving the switch. You'll need a couple of short 14 gauge wires, push on terminals, shrink wrap, and a 30 amp auto relay to do the job plus a soldering gun and wire stripper. To start you need to remove the drivers seat and gas tank. The gas tank is held on with a single bolt on the end by the seat plus two allen head bolts on the sides up front. Remove the cover by the ignition/gas cap. Disconnect the overflow vent hose and the fuel sender wires. The tank can be lifted off and set down out of the way now. Disconnect the (-) negative cable from the battery as you'll have one wire live otherwise. On top of the engine locate the wire harness coming from the ignition switch. There will be two red plug connectors going through a holder. Pull those out. The one you'll be working on will be the 2 wire one with a pink plug on one end disconnect that plug. Picture 1 shows it well. The next step is to splice a wire to the red wire with 14 gauge leaving it long enough to work with. Refer to picture 2 Cut the brown /blue wire leaving enough at the plug side to work with. Add a short length to both ends of the cut wire. Using a butt connector, soldered, and covered with shrink tubing will give a solid connection as well as protection . Add a female spade terminal to both of those ends. Do the same for the red wire spliced earlier too. Cover with shrink tubing after soldering them. Make a ground wire with a eyelet end on one end and a female terminal on the other. See picture 3. I used the closest bolt holding the radiator fill cap in place to ground the eyelet. The opposite end will attach to the relay. Connect the wires to the relay follows: spliced Red wire fastens to #30 terminal of the relay the brown /blue wire from the switch attaches to #86 terminal on the relay the brown /blue wire going to the harness connects to#87 terminal on the relay the gounding wire attaches to the #85 terminal on the relay. Wrap the wires up with tape and tuck them back into the harness holder. Pics 4 & 5 show the completed job with the relay as tucked in on top of the engine. Note: While this mod will prolong the life of the switch a long time there's always the posibilty that the switch can still fail through normal wear. If it does you can simply connect together the red wire and the brown/blue wire on the harness side to get you home. Some folks take this a step further and add a toggle switch between the two wires. I don't think it's neccassary on newer bikes but if you're experincing any ignition troubles now then I would certainly see the advatage of adding a toggle switch where you can get to it without having to remove the tank.
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Going to try this again. Anybody have an old , bad, removed, ignition coil from a 2nd gen laying around ?? If you replaced a coil, could you pull the plug wire out of the " old " ignition coil, and take a photo, or let me know, if the plug wire can be " Re-Installed " after you pull out the old one ?? ie: is there a pointed SCREW inside the hole the same as on the 1st Gen Ignition coils ??? I'm trying to figure out if I can replace the plug wire on these coils, but do not want to destroy a good one in the process. Any help here, appreciated, thanks.
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Got on the RSV Thursday for a couple of errands. When I turned the ignition on to head home from the last stop, I hit the starter and nothing! The radio was playing, but the lights were not on. When I turned the switch back to the ACC position, for second, the speedometer "scanned" across and then was back off. Long story short, if I turn the switch completely to the right, nothing, except what is on in the ACC position. Now if I just barely turn the key back to the left, the lights come on, the bike starts and all is right with the world. If after it starts, I turn the key all the way to the right the engine quits. It is like the switch is turning past where there should be a stop. Anyone else experienced something like this? An I headed for a switch replacement?
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I went to the Hot Springs AR rally this past weekend. Yesterday morning getting ready to come back home from Hot Springs I went to start my 07 RSV and it just clicked when I hit the start button. I noticed when I hit the start button all the lights and the radio shut off. The radio did not come back on. I turned the key off and back on and it started fine, but had to turn the radio back on and all of my radio preset channels were gone. It did this one more time on the way home at one of the stops. I am thinking from the threads I read this morning it is in the ignition switch or could be the ignition wiring. I will not be able to check out the wiring till Friday. Need to check my warranty and find out when it expires since it is an 07 model and I bought it used.
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A couple months ago, I was reading some posting, concerning Ignition Coils ! Question: ? Sombody made mention that on his 2nd Gen, ( don't remember what year ) he had changed the Ignition Coils to some kind of Plug Over type Coil. ?? I assume he used coils from some other type of bike. Does anybody, know, or remember which member this was who made this posting ?? I have this type of Ignition Coil set up on my Busa, and am very interested is makeing this modification to my 08 RSTD if this is possible. Anybody remember this information, ???? I'm thinking that this mod might help reduce " Ignition Noise" in the AM radio system ?? ( well, maby it will ) :detective:
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After reinstalling the forks and top triple tree clamp I can't find the harness end of the ignition plug. It's red and should stand out like Santa Claus at the beach but I've spent over an hour poking around in there and could not find it. Where should I look for the harness end?
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I just bought a '99 RSV, and the original owner had replaced the ignition switch, leaving me with a different key for the rest of the locks. My question is, since they are double-sided keys, if two locksets can be cut on the same key? I know there are more pins/tumblers in these locks, but on older Ford vehicles you could cut 2 different vehicle ignition keys on one key, one on one side, one on the other, it would require a blank key to start out with. Just an inquiring mind thing.
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I have a 1st Generation Venture Royal. Is there a code number to use to get a replacement ignition key made and where can I find it. Thanks, racerod129
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Before my long trip i have accumulated some spare parts to take with me. I am taking TCI, rectifier/regulator and ignition coil (I am taking just 1 spare of the 4 that i have). Is there a way to test the regulator and ignition coil without putting it on the bike? I have already cheched the TCI on the bike. (BTW I am not bike electrical literate.) -
Before my long trip i have accumulated some spare parts to take with me. I am taking TCI, rectifier/regulator and ignition coil (i am taking just 1 of the 4 spares that i have). Is there a way to test the regulator and ignition coil without putting it on the bike? I have already cheched the TCI on the bike. (BTW I am not bike electrical literate.)
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Someone PLEEEEEASE tell me that there is a way to remove the ignition coils from my 89 Venture without removing ALL the front fairing!!----I thought I saw a thread on here a while back saying you could remove the battery box and air filter and remove them that way--also--how common is it to have "cracked" ignition coils--bike started running like crap and a friend suggested plug wires---got ready to replace the plug wires and noticed that the first 2 coils are cracked all the way across the top--found a complete set on E-bay--but now need help removing the old ones!!--------Thanx------Larry
