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Showing results for tags 'idling'.
Found 7 results
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First off, I'd like to thank JB (Lonestarmedic) for riding all the way to Aledo from San Antone (300 miles) to help me checkout and replace if necessary the shift segment (the thingy with the six pins). After eating a steak and shooting the bull Friday evening we turned to Saturday morning. In order to check out the shift segment, we had to pull the entire clutch basket. Well, to both of our surprise the segment looked great and proceeded to reassemble the clutch. Since it was already apart, we installed new friction plates and a new spring, all OEM. Ran the bike while on the center stand and could hardly stop the back tire while idling in first gear. Fired up and rode the bike Saturday afternoon and at first the shifting seemed to improve but soon became even more difficult. In addition the bike now creeped while idling in gear. Disassembled it again to make absolutely sure all was correct. Everything looked ok. Reassembled everything again. While testing it on the centerstand and idling in first. The rear tire still spun and was difficult to stop. It was quite apparent the bike would still creep. If anyone can provide assistance, here are some questions: 1) The part identified as #2 (thrust washer) in the OEM illustration, appears to be placed on the shaft just "after" installing the basket. With the basket fully seated the thrust washer slides past all shaft splines and floats on the shaft just next to the clutch basket. This seems to be the way it was assembled before we tore it apart but the positioning of this thrust washer just doesn't seem correct. Any comments and/or advise on if this is correct? The problem seems to be that even though the clutch basket is installed correctly, there isn't enough travel being provided for the clutch plates to be fully released when the clutch handle is pulled. The master cylinder has been recently rebuilt and the slave is brand new as well. There is no air in the lines either. What on earth can be the problem? Any help or advise would be greatly appreciated. I hope someone out there is intimately familiar with the lst Edition clutch assembly and can guide me correctly. Thanks -
After riding, well idling through steel horse alley at the Bike time Rally this weekend about 30 times, I noticed something. My volt gauge is bouncing from 12V to normal from time to time. when I get on the open road at 35+mph it seems fine at a full charge. Did I overheat my Stator by idling the bike for about 6 hours while trying to get through the traffic and people that act surprised when a bike wants to get through at a bike rally and dont get out of the way. Temps were in the mid 70's bike never overheated, the fan came on a lot.
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Anybody have this ,my fuel pump used to click when I turned on key. Now it doesnt or maybe clicks 1 or 2 times. Cleaned all connections battery is fully charged and bike starts instantly and runs PERFECT. I`m wondering if there is going to be a problem down the line?? no hesitation and will run all day at 70 -80 mph with power to spare. when bike is idling can feel pulses when I hold hand on pump. any input greatly appreciated JB. Just changed stator last week its putting out 14 volts at 3000 rpm. thanks to all that gave advice on that problem JB
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I posted about how my bike blew over in a T-storm last Thursday. It sat for a couple hours completely horizontal. I picked it up and checked it over for a few minutes before starting it up. It started quickly and ran fine, but the idle has been low ever since. I had it idling in the 900-1000 rpm range before, and it probably dropped 3-400 rpm, such that it tends to die before fully warm. It's hard to find an effective choke setting that keeps the bike on a fast idle. Today I increased the idle speed thumbscrew setting to get the idle back where it belongs, but I had to screw it in, oh, maybe one full turn. That isn't right. What could cause this? I could understand if it idled slowly right at first until the fluids stabilized in their normal places, but not for several days! Ideas? Jeremy
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I have an 89 venture, and when I first got it I found it was idling around 1300 rpm. A quick look in manual for idling adjust and I mistakenly turned the carb sync screw on left side to adjust rpm. So, having just done a carb sync and found my folly (and fixed) what if any improvements will I see? I am mainly interested in mpg...hoping this would improve. I already know it idles much better! I really didn't notice any power changes, but perhaps just a slight improvement in vibration at highway speeds? This isn't a critical question as I will find out next run, but as it is raining anyway and I am housebound I thought someone would know. Thanks.
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now i am totally confused
hipshot posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
i have read ,in different threads and posts, that the carb. diaphragms,DO have a direct bearing on "engine idle." i have also read, here, that the diaphragms have NO effect on idling. so which is correct? also , today, i read a thread or two that mentioned "enrichment diaphragms"! first time i've ever heard of them. where are they located, and do THEY have any influence over "smooth idling".? just jt -
I have a 89 VR and on Friday it started idling VERY fast.It now is idling at or above 3,000rpm's.I checked and lubed the throttle cables and replaced to the fuel filter and it did nothing.I also sprayed carb cleaner on the intake boots and it did NOTHING.This all started all of a sudden.It was idling at about 1,000rpm's and the next time I pulled in the clutch it to 3,000 and has been there ever since.ANY ideas ?????
