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Showing results for tags 'hex'.
Found 9 results
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This is in response to snaggletooth's post earlier about his side stand bolt breaking. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?threadid=48307 I started a new thread so people might look at it that had already viewed his. As was noted in previous post, the undercut on the shoulder bolt is deep. The threads are 10 mm on the shoulder bolt and the undercut is about 7.90 mm. This is about 20% of the bolts threaded diameter that has been removed. The shoulder portion of the bolt is 12 mm. I used a grade 10.9, 12 mm x 1.75 mm x 60 mm long partially threaded hex head bolt, a grade 10.9 hex head nut and a standard grade jam nut (hardware didn't have grade 10.9 jam nuts).Grade 10.9 metric is very close to an imperial grade 8. The hardware store had 12 mm x 1.50 mm bolts, but the unthreaded portion was a smaller diameter than the 1.75 mm. I would have rather had the finer threads. I used the 60 mm length because the unthreaded portion of this bolt was just the length that was required to pass through the front and back wings of the side stand. I did not want threads in that area, due to the threads would quickly wear down in diameter and increase play in side stand. The shoulder on the hex bolt measured 11.50 mm, just slightly smaller than the existing shoulder bolt by about .005". I cut the shoulder bolt to roughly 45 mm (1.75") long. Then drilled out the threaded portion of the kickstand with a 15/32" drill. This gave a very snug fit for the unthreaded portion of the new bolt. The drilled hole in the back wing is still a smaller diameter than the existing hole in the front wing of the side stand, so I do not feel it weakened the overall assembly. Replaced the side stand. I used blue loctite on threads. Tightened hardened hex bolt up until there was minimal play in the end of side stand, then ran jam nut up against hex nut. Cost was under $5.00 and took less than an hour including parts run. Comparison of new bolt & existing shoulder bolt. Back wing of side stand prior to drilling Stack-up of new fasteners after cutting hex bolt to length. Picture of side stand prior to spring being reinstalled. Gary
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Back in 01 when I bought my 02 RSMV you could buy little chrome spots (as I remember) and insert them into allen hex socket bolts to dress it up. Over the years some have disappeared and I went to look for them online and nothing comes up. Anyone have a link for these. I need them in the 5mm allen hex size and a couple in the 8mm size.
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Bought my ’08 RSV back in January. Runs great but has a few minor problems I’ve been getting to slowly. This weekend was cleaning and greasing the electrical connectors in the fairing. The audio has been cutting out intermittently – a problem well documented on this forum. I split the fairing OK but when I went to remove the light bar so I could remove the front portion of the fairing, saw that both 5 mm hex screws were completely rounded. Tried drilling one and using an extractor but broke it off (that’s never happened before:depressed:). I might be able to remove the fairing if I disassemble the running lights but that seems to be getting me further down that black hole I’m trying to avoid. The frustrating part – I can see the connectors I want to clean, just can’t get to them – all because of a couple buggered hex screws. Suggestions? It’s too early to drink.
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Guys, Thank you, thank you, thank you for all your kind help on my quest to figure out, A) how to split my faring, B) How to take off the hex bolts holding my Yamaha driving light bar inplace c) Which connector is the audio control connector. I'm also color blind if things aren't confusing enough. So has this ever happened to any of you? Today I decided to split my faring and clean fix, whatever you want to call it; the main audio control unit connector because I am having the same issues that others have been having. Sooooooooooooooooooo I got the faring split. That was OK. But then I could not figure how to get the light bar mount off. I realized I had to get what I thought was a 5.5mm ball hex allan wrench. So I made a list. On my list I put two things you good folks told me I needed. A ball hex wrench some dielectric grease. I spent two hours driving around the city looking in numerous auto parts stores for a simple 5.5mm hex allan wrench. I finally found one in a set at the fourth parts store I stopped in. What the heck, for 12 bucks I bought the set. I was ecstatic and couldn't wait to get home to loosen and remove those wretched hex bolts. Guess what I forgot to buy even though I had the list gripped so tight in my sweaty palms that the paper got wet and began to fall apart? You got it - dielectric grease. I can't believe it. I do have some 12/24 contact cleaner however and I am going to spray the heck out of every connector. Here is my quandary. Should I wait until tomorrow and go buy some dielectric grease or simply spray everything with the 12/24 cleaner and put it back together. AAAARRRRrrrrggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhh? Please, please tell me some of you have had this same experience. Chris in Red Deer, Alberta -
Ok folks, I need some help.. I just got my set of passenger Highway pegs from Diamond R Accessories for the Misses.. I attemped to remove the rear Hex screw and ended up stripping the head, so I got out my "easy outs". Well the heads of the factory screws are pretty soft and the easy out just ate into it.. Ok now I'm getting a bit pissed off so I get a extractor bit and drilled a pilot hole and try it.. NO LUCK !! My question is, wha't my next course of attack ?? Thanks 06 RSTD
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Ohh - Probably a dee dee dee question - I pulled my front wheel expressly to remove the * unsightly * rotor covers from my otherwise lovely RSTD. For some reason I can't for the life of me find the wrench to fit those bolts. My trusty metric hex set says no! What up? It's not Torx is it? Am I hallucinating? -
I have the forks off a 82 XJ 650 & using a 8mm hex sosket on the bottom of the lower tube, and a 12mm hex socket with all my extentions down the upper tube, both seem to turn (spin) but will not loosen the dampning rod. Any ideas? Need to remove dampning rod to replace the fork seals. H E L P Thanks :canada:
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I have developed a leak coming out of the drain cock. It is a slow leak but I'd like to fix the problem. I checked the position it is set and it is aligned with the mark at about 2 oclock. I noticed that there is a O ring behind the the hex shaped front and I think the O ring may need replacement. My question is: Does this hex shaped item screw out thus exposing the O ring? Thanks, Ronnie -
Tools. We all love em. I found this little gem at Wal-Mart, but you can buy them online too. It's a little ball-ended metric hex key wrench, that I have been carrying on the Venture for about a month now. Seems to be well made, and sure comes in handy on the bike. The main thing I use it for is taking off the seat, splitting the fairing, and general tightening of loose fasteners. Folding hex wrenches are nothing new, but this one has the ball-ends, so its much handier than most. Speaking of tools, I wonder what the riders on here recommend as far as tools they like to carry on the bike. We all know the little cheapo UJM toolkit that comes with the Venture is almost worthless....I know Cruz tools have a good reputation. So what do yall carry on board? http://www.sheffield-tools.com/images/6150.jpg http://www.sheffield-tools.com/pc-weekender-series-folding-hex-key-kit-p-1112.html
