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Showing results for tags 'heads'.
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I may have the opertunity to go up to the Mosport Raceway for work next year. A buddy of mine have talked about riding up. As of yet we dont know what month but would asume mid summer. I live in central Fl and we would be starting our trip from Charlotte NC. Are there some good roads or routes someone might give me a heads up on. This is so far out right now I dont even know if we will have enough days to ride up and get back home before the next weeks work. But I'm hopin we can swing it.
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Incredible piece of engineering. OPERATIONAL THERE ARE STILL SOME REAL ENGINEERS IN THE WORLD. THIS IS AMAZING..... Watch it all the way through, he machines, assembles and runs this little engine..... This is not CNC technology; this guy made everything at home on his lathe and drill press. Took 1220 hours (a year and a half?) to make the 261 pieces. Note the end-loaded crankshaft into the block (like an Offy), 12 individual cylinder heads, TINY rods and pistons, dual "underhead" cams with pushrods to rockers in the heads. And, he did break-in runs using an electric drill driving the crankshaft! Even if you're not an engineer, you'll appreciate this! http://www.wimp.com/tiniestengine/
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TOOLS EXPLAINED http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=2&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=3&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'xxxxxxxx' http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=4&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=5&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood- blisters. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=6&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=7&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=8&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=9&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race.. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=10&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=11&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=12&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=13&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=14&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=15&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=16&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=17&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=18&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=19&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. “XXXXX” TOOL:http://us-mg4.mail.yahoo.com/ya/download?mid=2%5f0%5f0%5f1%5f678721%5fAO0NiWIAAOpwUOCp7gTWqBvdrlI&pid=20&fid=Inbox&inline=1&appid=YahooMailNeo Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'XXXX' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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I just purchased some Vmax heads to throw on my 83 venture. I am NOT at least for now putting or even looking to put the 1300cc motor in. My question is what would be the best jets (all of them if you know ) to put into my carbs to really wake her up even more without overkilling it. I am willing to throw the cafe style air filters on IF necessary to let her breathe better. ANY insight would help. Thanks in advanced John and Christina
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Ok, the question is, will the heads from an '83 1200cc motor fit on top of an '88 1300cc motor? IIRC, Dingy put 1200cc V-Max heads on a 1300 motor. This is the issue I am having. I have a incomplete donor motor from an '88 Venture that I picked up for my '83 Venture that was having 2nd gear issues. When I cracked open my '83 case, I found out that the two center crankshaft bearings were damaged, with the journal of one having scrapes deep enough to catch a fingernail. The other exposed bearings looked dull. Also, the PO had opened the motor before, sealing it back up with red gasket sealer, getting it everywhere, even in oil passages. So I am a little concerned about the block. The '88 motor had almost all of it's covers removed, and the intake/exhaust ports left open. Some of the valves are stuck open. I pulled the heads and the cylinders look fine, still has the cross-hatch marks on the walls with no up/down scratches. The exposed bearings look nice & shiny, and I see no damage on the crankshaft. My '83 heads are still fine as the bike was still running before I tore it down. So what I want to do is put the good gears back into the '88, button it back up, and swap the heads from my '83 onto the '88, then install the '88 back into my bike. I'm looking at head gaskets for an '88 and the valve cove gaskets from a 2nd gen. I know I'm asking a question that I kinda have an answer for (and most likely the direction I will take), but I'm just seeing if there is any issues or problems that I should be aware of or look out for. I was hoping for a simple transmission swap but it's turning into a big headache. -Andrew -
I've read all the great posts here about swapping my carbs to the 32mm on my 98 RSTD.I bought a set from an 02 Venture to do the job this winter.I also found some heads with cams,valves & springs at pinwall at a reasonable price(around $200.00 delivered) from an 02 Venture.Could I just simply buy and install the heads & intakes with the cams in them and not worry about making the adapter brackets and machining the intake to make for a relatively easy bolt on upgrade?The Venture heads & cams are an upgrade over my 98 RSTD cams,right?? Do the Venture heads bolt on? Is this a worthwhile upgrade,since I'm doing the carbs anyway?? Any input is appreciated.Oh and the rear v-max differential swap is on my upgrade list too...I need more power!! -
I know a lot of us bike riders are kinda hard of hearing. My case is that and my wife has talked me into taking a hearing test. I have had a problem with this for a while now. To the point that I am having trouble at home and work understanding what people say. It is very embarrassing for me sometimes. I feel so stupid sometimes, but that is what I heard. So my question is for those that are wearing hearing aids and what should I get or do ? Brand, the most comfortable and the ones that really work. My hearing test is next Wednesday at 10:00 am. I will know more then. Just wanting to get a heads up from those who have been there and done this. Thank you in advance for your time and suggestions....... Please type loudly ... Loud pipes do save lives, and also hard on your hearing. Uuuuuh, Whattttt you Sayyy ? Fuzzy
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My ignition was going bad, so we removed the cover and the tank, and thought it would be a simple matter of removing two bolts, taking the old one out and popping the new one in. Only the bolts were smooth round head bolts with no way to get at them. Not sure why they were not hex head or some other kind of normal bolt, but we had to drill the heads off to get them out. The rest of the replacement was a snap. Anyone know why these bolts would be smooth round heads? I was thinking for anti-theft reasons, but that makes no sense either. And how would a dealer get them out unless they did the same thing I did? Very puzzling. Only downside to a new ignition is now I have to use an ignition key, and my original key for the bag locks and helmet locks, which is no big deal, but still a bit of a pain. The upside is that my RSV won't be crapping out on me anymore! -
Hi everyone. Thought I would share this one with you for what it's worth. I had a lot of plastic caps left over after I fitted my new Kitchen and thought of a use for them. They fit over the heads of the Phillips screw heads to tidy the units up after construction. I have used them to tidy up some of the heads of Allen studs on the bike. 1). First find ones that fit into the holes of the Allen studs you want to cover even if they don't fit snug a little waterproof sealer putty or paper tack (Blue-Tack) the stuff that does not set can be added on fitting. 2). Push them into some of the putty type stuff previously mentioned. This is to stop them blowing away when you spray them. 3). Spray on some metallic paint or whatever colour you like, this stuff I used is supposed to be chrome. (No way is it chrome but it is a good alloy colour). Allow to dry and fit to bike. The horrid black bits on the engine are corn flies, they get everywhere this time of year. Best Wishes. Neil. Old Miner.
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I have removed the AIS system from my 2006 RSTD. I crimped the tubes and that shut off the nipples from the heads. How can I plug these tubes if I remove the original pipes/packing/clamps?
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Tools Explained DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh sh--!' SKIL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. Hope you found this informative.
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Got motor back into frame this weekend. Encountered another small issue mounting up the VBoost intakes though. I had the block face milled down .040", this is to raise compression. The block needed to be milled due to there not being enough material on the heads to do this. When the block is milled (or the heads for that matter), it lowers the heads by the amount taken off. Also moves heads inward at the 35 deg angle from vertical. The VBoost intake is a rather rigid unit that did not react well to its mounting holes getting moved. I could not get the screws started. I had to ream the mounting holes in the intakes out 3/64" to allow the screws to engage. Fortunately with the VBoost's rigid intake, the carb rack should mount up fairly good. This same head head movement will also create some additional fitment issue with the exhaust system, but it will be easier (I hope) to deal with. Next is onward to getting carbs mounted on intakes. Rick Butler gave me a heads up that the carb pull cable bracket will need modified to clear the frame, due to the taller intakes, but I know that is coming. Already had to modify the "twinkie" to get the cooling hose on it oriented different. May be going to put a Lithium battery in it to allow the bigger VMax air box to fit up. These new batteries are on back order so I may need to work around the air box issue. And, yes I am replacing that old red fuel line this year !! Gary -
Attached is a list of gaskets, o-rings and other goodies that I am replacing in 1300 motor. All of the part numbers listed are for an 88 1300. For the most part these will be the same as the 1200. Head gaskets will differ for one. This is not everything that I am replacing, but it is the gaskets & o-rings mainly. Also includes everything in the oil pump galleys. Couple of optional things like the neutral pin on the shifter drum are included. Water bypass joint in heads needs to be removed to pull heads off. These are a pain to get out intact, but the sometimes can be saved. A question was asked in another unrelated thread about the list to fix the transmission in a MKI. This list is assuming heads are removed, case split, & all rubber stuff replaced. Some items are shown as not required or may be reused. Prices are from partshark.com I did elect to upgrade the shifter segment components as well. There is a complete gasket kit available for the MKI's from Athena. It runs around $220 I think. I didn't go this route due to what I saw of the kit, each component was not individually marked. Some of the o-rings have subtle differences as to where they go. Gary
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Tools Explained DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh ****!' SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. SON-OF-A-B*^%H TOOL: (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a B*^%H!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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Just thinking. I have a few parts and just want to kind of get a list in my head of what should go where. What would you want?? What I have is: 1. I have a 83 with a new frame. Has good 2nd gear but I think that is on the top of the list. Go ahead and install 86 tranny I have. FJR or V-Max rear. I have a air cleaner set-up with 4 seperate air cleaners to get rid of air box. Maybe help with room for Boost system?? 83 cams 7 Heads v/s V-Max cams & heads?? Garage to do this in!! (I am getting there!!) What would you want for dream 1st Gen?? I already have fastest Venture around:whistling: Got nothing else to do at 3AM.
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Just bought my 2007 RSTD this past weekend with 2200 miles and factory warranty till March 2013. I trailered her home and then had to take it straight in to the local dealer for a recall. Something about the heads needing to have the torque checked? Is anyone aware of any other recall issues with the 2007 RSTD?
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Does any one know what the stock head gasket thickness is? I am going to pull the heads off my motor this winter & put new valve guide seals in it. I am getting a some smoke from exhaust under acceleration. Compression is near spec. on all cylinders, so I am confident rings are OK. They measured OK when I had engine apart last winter. Heads came off a 97 VMax that was supposed to only have 17,000 miles on it. While I have the heads off, I want to increase the compression ratio on the motor. One way to do this is to mill the heads or block. The other way is to put a thinner head gasket on. Head gaskets are available in varying thicknesses. One of the VMax guys gave me the thickness for VMax gaskets, but it seems thinner than the set I put on this winter. Also going to put a Vboost on while I am in there. I am going to run it from the Ignitech TCI module. This work should put to rest that nasty rumor that Brown 1st gen's are the quickest that has been coming from someone in West Virginia. Gary
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Just a heads up. WOOT is featuring a Motorola GPS this morning. Price is right. If you want a cheap GPS to play with, here it is. http://www.woot.com/
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Just wanted to give you all a heads up that I posted some 1st Gen stuff in the Classifieds. -
Finally got income coming in so I can come back to a home away from home for my 86 Venture Royale!!! YAY!! However, I have a question about swapping heads. Will a head from an 84 fit and work on an 86? Last fall, everything was running great. Then I had a small backfire while starting the bike and I lost HALF my power. After doing a Leakdown test and Compression test, it seems I need a valve job. HOWEVER, I have a good head that was given to me off an 84. All the measurements are within specs. I just need to know if they will swap or do i need to do the valve job on the 86 and put it back on the bike? Any help will be GREATLY appreciated. I NEED to get back on the bike. I feel a part of me is missing. Thanks!!!! Merlin B Westminster, CO PS I forgot to say the 1984 is a 1200 CC and the 1986 is a 1300 CC. Thank MIGHT be important
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Still naked as a jay bird but got it running tonight. Started, ran & idled fairly good for what its been through. Stripped to frame, new engine, heads and a ton of other stuff. I so happy I could just poop. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5560s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5561s.jpg http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/PICT5562s.jpg
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What brand of clear paint have you used to seal the shine after polishing the engine pieces. I have the heads ready to seal but figured I'd ask here to see what kind of luck the rest of you have had after painting them to keep their shine. I have done the side cases a while ago but never painted them. I have kept them shiny being that their easy to access. But the heads are harder to access so its paint time if any of you have had good luck doing it and it lasts.
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I bought visors for each of the lights on my '03 RSMV then put the visors on the front passing lamps and turn signals. I postponed the Headlight visor until today since I would need to split the fairing, but decided to put the rear turn signal and HD license plate light visors on last night. Someone had been there before me on the turn signals added LED light rings inside, but they do not work. Anyway, as part of their operation they had stripped the heads on the screws so I had purchased replacements. I drilled out the heads and the lens came off, no sweat on the left side. The housing was filled with water and the lower screw was rusty. When I put the vice grips on the screws to back them out the top removed easily, but the lower snapped right off! Has anyone experienced this or do you have any suggestions how to get this fairly tiny screw out now? :confused24:I hate to have to replace the entire assembly... Now after days and days of rain, the sun is shining and I am sitting here looking at that stinking broken off screw. Crap!
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I have a 2001 Dodge Intrepid, with 223,000 miles on the car. The engine went south on me an I don't feel it would be worth repairing it. I'm considering on replacing it with a remanufactured engine from Marshall Engines http://www.marshallengines.com The cost for what they refer to as a long block, with new heads would be 2,300.00 with a 3yr warranty unlimited mileage. Does anyone here have any knowledge on this manufacturer about their engines? Thanks
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DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted part which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light. Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, ''What the...??'' ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning pop rivets in their holes until you die of old age. SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. WELDING GLOVES: Heavy duty leather gloves used to prolong the conduction of intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub you want the bearing race out of. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes, trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. EIGHT-FOOT LONG YELLOW PINE 2X4: Used for levering an automobile upward off of a trapped hydraulic jack handle. E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool ten times harder than any known drill bit that snaps neatly off in bolt holes thereby ending any possible future use. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. CRAFTSMAN 1/2 x 24-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A very large pry bar that inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end opposite the handle. AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids and for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while wearing them. DAMMIT TOOL: Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling ''DAMMIT'' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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