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Showing results for tags 'groove'.
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I have a 2006 RSV. Yesterday, when I went to downshift for the toll booth, I found I had no shifter. It was laying on the foot board. I stopped and slipped it back on to its pivot shaft and got home fine. My question is... What holds it on the shaft? The shaft has a groove machined in it all the around about half way on its length. But I see nothing on the shift lever that indicates how it is held on???? Thank you in advance CG
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It’s that time of the year when many of us First Gen. VR owners are working on our bikes, so I thought I would take a moment and point out an issue I have discovered. After rebuilding over 100 First Gen. MKII VR (1986 to 1993) Rear Brake Calipers, I have noticed a trend that I wanted to share with you. Given that the MKII VR Rear Brake Calipers are at least 19 years old, and could be as old as 26 years, in the case of the 1986 model, Plus the rear of the MKII VR has one of the largest diameter rear rotors ever placed on a production motorcycle. The surface footage that is generated at the point of contact of the brake pads is so great, that the steel backing plates of the brake pads actually wear a groove in the Caliper Body! I have attached some pics of the groove worn in the body of the MKII VR caliper below. Now, this only happens on ONE side of the caliper body, so great care must be taken when inspecting the caliper when you change Rear Brake Pads. You will find this groove on the side of the rear caliper closest to the front of the motorcycle, and this is why many MKII VR owners miss this wear groove. If you find that your rear caliper has this wear groove, then replacement of the caliper is necessary. The reason being is the brake pads get trapped in this groove, and will not back off of the rotor after the rear brake has been released, causing the rotor to overheat and warp, or lock up. If the groove is not very deep, you still get reduced brake pad wear because the brake pads are staying in constant contact with the rotor. The first pic shows a cleaned up set of MKII VR Rear Caliper halves. The arrows are pointing to the groove cut in the Caliper Body by the Brake Pad Backing Plate. The next two pics are uncleaned caliper halves. This is most likely what the groove is going to look like when you remove the brake pads to replace them. I hope this information helps you with any pesky little rear brake problems you may be having. Earl -
Had a guy on a Harley pass us today. We were on a long, straight stretch, 2-lane hwy. He was behind us and I knew he was gonna pass. I was riding in right groove of the lane, allowing him better visibility ahead. Soon as the road ahead was clear, he passed... but unlike what I expected and what most anyone else would do, he didn't move over the centre line.... passed us in the left groove on our side of the road .... now why on earth would he have done that but for nothing else than to show off his noisy, fast (not) Harley. I had a good mind to gun it and leave him in a cloud of Yamadust.
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Finally got up the courage to cut my 5th gear dogs today. Set it up in my drill press with an adjustable angle vise. I thought this might help keep it straight and I should be able to do the back cut also by angling the vise. Need to get a new stone first, will try that tomorrow night. I just rotated the gear and vice lightly around the stone (as it was turning, of course!) following the curve of the dog. Two dogs started at .0476, the other one was .0484 dimension across the widest part of the curved faces. Cut all three down to .0466 +/- .0001. Looked pretty good, and I believe all the rounded top is gone. Did not grind the other side (deceleration side) as I could not see any rounding on them. Will also try to backcut the slots with the vise as I can duplicate the exact angle I used on the dogs. Thought it might be easier than doing "freestyle" with the Dremel tool. Here are some measurements on the old and new thrust washer and clips and the clip groove in the driven axle: Plate washer: Old 1.98mm thick 25.23mm ID 4.38mm wide (ID to OD) New 2.02mm thick 25.28mm ID 4.38mm wide Thrust clips Old 3.06mm thick 6.67mm width groove cut in by wear .85mm New 3mm thick 6.5mm width Groove on shaft where split clips go-- 3.22mm So, I guess, there is meant to be about .15-.2mm play in the groove where the split clips go? I hope it's ok, 'cause I really don't want to spend $225.00 on a new axle. Any thoughts? I can't figure out why they would make the "new" split clips thinner than the old. Couldn't see much rounding on the pressure side (outboard) of the groove in the axle. Here are some pics Hey, I work in this garage, ain't got time to keep the bench lickety split clean!!!!!
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How in the h*&% does this thing go on? Of course the manual and pics are useless for this. Does the circlip go on first in the groove then the joint goes on after. Does the circlip ride between the o-rings in the joint? How can that be without damaging the orings with the circlip unless the the circlip stays at the bottom of the joint, keeping it from moving down, but it seemed to be in the center when I removed it, and the wear on it appears to indicate it rides in the center groove where the air hole is. Simple little thing kept me from being backtogether an hour ago. Anybody knowledgable here at the moment?
