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Showing results for tags 'grease'.
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In case you weren't aware the original WD-40 was never intended to be used as a "lubricant". As I understand, it was formulated as a Water Displacement solvent. It was formulated to rid moisture from distributor caps, electrical contacts, etc. It has a secondary benefit as a "solvent", good for removing grease, gunk and funk from nasty stuff. This fact was burned in my memory when I was behind an old man at the quick oil change place one day. We were both outside our vehicles & he told the techs, "Don't lube my door hinges." Several minutes later they were spraying his truck liberally with WD-40. He went ballistic! Accused them of stealing the grease from his door hinges is about as mildly as I can put it. That's when I learned about the properties & purposes of WD-40 & I've been forever grateful for the free education. Move on a decade & yesterday the computer tech buys a can of "new high tech lube" for our linear bearing rails for our laser engravers, CNC's & spindle bearings. I saw the can (WD-40) & I thought, "Stupid geek"! Then I looked at the label. WD-40 SPECIALIST SPRAY & STAY LUBRICANT NO-DRIP FORMULA. Says to myself, "Self, looks like everything else these days... the lines have been blurred." Sure enough, go on the WD-40 website & they now have a plethora of products to address the multiple uses folks THOUGHT the original formula was the holy grail for. Wanted to give a heads up. Just thought ya might consider swinging the other way. Not an endorsement.
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As one who many years ago had the speedometer squeal about scare me to death and then not do it again until I was 400 miles from home, I think I have a good fix. First of all, the only way to do it right is get grease INTO the bearing area where the cable goes into the housing. In the past, I would take the speedometer out of the dash and try to get grease way down in the inside and hope enough grease got around the bearing, and it usually did, but not always and it was a bit of a PITA. I went to Lowe's and got an 1/4 inch pipe cap, which screws several threads on to the back of the speedometer. I drilled and tapped a hole to accept a grease fitting. I screw the cap on finger tight, as this is a pipe thread fitting, and pump in grease. You will need to get most of the grease out of the cable hole so the cable will go in. What you are trying to do is get grease around the center piece where the cable goes. The cable hole is a blind hole(not a thru hole) so the pressurized grease goes between the center piece and housing. I did it on an old speedometer I had and it made it smoother. By doing it this way, you do not have to take the dash out, just take the cable housing off and screw on the fitting. I bought a tray of grease fittings from Harbor Freight a while back and it has different angle fittings if the straight one does not work best. I will attach some pics. RandyA -
Please add to this list if you think of something that I have missed. Chirp. There has been a lot of discussion on the "chirping" sound on the second gen Venture and Royal Stars. There is often some confusion about this sound. These bikes use straight cut gears which create a whine that is best described as the sound made by an old granny gear truck when you are letting it coast. That is a normal sound that is characteristic of the straight cut gears. The sound that is NOT normal is a high pitched chirping sound. This is a result of improper clutch basket clearances. Yamaha has replaced many clutch baskets under warranty and many people have reported that this has greatly reduced or eliminated this noise. Dry drive splines. Yamaha seems to be very stingy with the grease that they use on the rear drive spines on these bikes. There have been many reports of noise from the drive area. Yamaha has lubed some of these as a warranty issue but many of us have done the job at home. It requires a lift to remove the rear tire and then pulling the drive shaft to lube the front splines and also removing the rear drive from the wheel hub to grease the "fingers". Trunk Cracks. The 1999 model RSV had an issue with the trunk bottoms cracking. Yamaha came out with a support kit to address this problem and installed it under warranty. Audio Problems. Many people have had problems with the audio system due to back connections of the 5 din plugs inside the fairing. The fix is to split the fairing, unplug the connectors and apply a bit of dielectric grease to the pins. CB Antennas. The 1999 model RSV came with very poor CB Antennas. Many were replaced under warranty. The design was changed with the 2000 models. Many have replace the '99 antennas with aftermarket units. Backfiring. Upon deceleration, many have experienced a loud backfire. This actually sounds like a cannon going off. Some have corrected the problem by syncing the carbs but many of us have plugged the AIS system to stop this problem completely. There is a tech article here on plugging the AIS. -
went through surgury n came out the other side in great shape. Still got pain n discomfort, but its already better. gonna start therapy today, that will b a long road ta hoe, was last time, but everything has worked great so far! been order'n parts for winter prodgits. Flanders handle bars, utopia backrest,highway pegs for passenger, new led lights for saddle bags. still have old I clutch basket from first 06, may put that in also, gonna grease driveshaft splines, swingarm, steering head bearings, want to do valve adjustment if i can find someone close with a tool n shims. Really look'n forward to been'n able to ride without pain. THANKS all for Prayers sent!!!
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It's been awhile since I've been here. I live in a very humid area ( Tx. gulf coast ). The kick stand is hard to opperate ( it doesn't move as freely as it did when it was new ). For comparrison I went to the dealer yesterday and played with a new Venture that they have on theire floor. I did the most logical thing and lubed it with marine grease but it is still hard to opperate. Has any one else had this problem and if so were you able to fix it by just greasing it or is it something else I'm missing?
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Ok, Got the bike up and got the pumpkin off. Splines to the u-joint aren't completely dry, but, not much grease on them. Next question is how much pressure should it take to pull the drive shaft out of the pinion?
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Does anybody know which type of grease that Yammie uses in their left rear wheel bearing? It's reasonably clear on a new bearing, so I'd suspect that it's lithium complex grease but..... Frank -
Finally got the rear tire mounted and wheel back on, but to what I think is to much gear noise. Not enough grease or did I put something back wrong? Little help please?
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Well with a little help from a co-worker and new VR member, K-Rider, we finally got the motor out of the frame on my 83, and the write up in the tech section was a big help. After we got it out sprayed the lower frame and the motor with de-greaser used the pressure washer to get all that 29 year old grease of the frame and motor, I couldnt believe how much grease had built up on the parts of the engine I couldnt see..........it will make disassemble of the motor a not so dirty job.
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I do not have any more. Two additional members have showned interest so I'll start a 2nd Group order. Pricing will depend on the order quantity. Your posting here is not a committment to purchase but just an interest depending on the cost. Lets temporarly set 7 April as a cut off day. Please post here if you interested in one. ************************ 1) The threads that are cut on the tool to go on the Speedometer are cut to match the threads exactly so there is so very little room for grease to make its way out the threads. He took measurements of the origional coupling threads and the threads on the speedometer. 2) The tool is screwed onto the speedometer several, several, several times so the grease has a long way to travel before it could come out the coupling threads if it could get past 1) above. 3) The tool can also be screwed onto the speedometer so far that the end of the speedometer can actually seat inside the tool to the end of its thread. but it is not recommended to screw all the way till it is seated for you will want to leave about 1 full turn left to give you wiggle room in case the grease fitting nipple is pointed in the wrong direction. 4) The threads on the other end where the grease fitting screws into was cut with a flaired threading the last 3/4 of a turn so to also give more wiggle room in case the grease nipple is pointed in the wrong direction. I recommend putting lock tight on this thread. I included a procedure instructions so one can align the tool with the lock tight. Then to remove the tool and allowing the lock tight to cure before using. When I used my tool, It pumped easy at first to fill the void with grease then I felt the resistence. I'm not a real strong person but I gave it one good solid hard pump. I was squeezing so tight that my hand and arm shook before grease came out the fitting where the grease gun goes on.
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OK...I finally got a few minutes tonight to see about putting my bike back together as a refresher....1988 VR, replacing the steering bearings. So...I put the bearing races and triple tree in the freezer to "shrink" them Races went into the neck just fine! I was told to put the bearings in the oven at about 200' or so to expand them, then tap them on with some PVC pipe. Question....how to I pack the bearings? Before the heat...they'll just melt the grease out of the bearings and make a mess. After the heat?...Still, will the grease not just heat up and run out? And by the time I pack them...will they not cool off too much? -
Finally got the bike and trailer all checked out and ready to pack for tomorrow. I have noticed for a bit that the wheel seals may have been leaking, as there is grease on the inside of both wheels. I pulled the caps this afternoon, just to be sure everything is ok. Well both wheels are still full of grease, but the seals are worn. I think that is because the seal surfaces on the axle was never polished. I can still feel the tool marks where it was turned down. When we get back from Vogel I think I'm gonna make a warranty claim against H/F, for a new axle. Just wondering if any of you with H/F trailers have run into the same thing?
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Went after Honda Molybdenum? Grease yesterday. They didn't have any. What I got is "Yamalube Molybdenum Disulfide Grease" Extreme Pressure- Shear Stability- Water Resistant- in a 10 oz. squeeze tube for $6.50. For use where the "M Grease Symbol" is called out in the factory service manual. Is this same stuff as Honda Grease??? Good for shafts and such?? I'm thinking it is but wanted to check with the Pros.
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I'm getting ready to change out my rear tire and I want to grease the drive shft as well. My question is what advise do you have and what all should I be looking for?
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Ok well I got into the rear of my 83. Everything looked pretty good. Had a buddy blast off the paint around the welds and no cracks. One weird part was when I took the covers off the swing-arm there were grease zerts there, thought in 83 they did not have them. The crossmember that the shock mounts to is very heavy with gussets in place, has it already been modified and strengthened? Another question is how much grease do you need to pump into the drive shaft grease zert? Everything looked really good so I will be putting it back together pretty much as is and just putting new bearings in the rear wheel. I will also have the rear rebalanced. Shaun
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For any of you who are interested, remember, V7Goose and I...mostly V7Goose...will be holding a clinic on Friday where we will repack the steering head bearings on my '99 RSV. Folks, this is a very important maintenance item and one that the dealer would charge you big bucks for. It is time consuming but is something that you CAN do yourself. This is NOT something that we will be doing on Saturday but something that you should be there to watch, take notes, pictures, etc. to do at some point when you get home. I repeat, this is an important maintenance item. It is easy to tighten the bearings on these things but at some point, they SHOULD be repacked. Tightening them when they get a bit loose is more of a bandaid than a fix. As with many items on these bikes, Yamaha, in my opinion, doesn't put enough grease in these bearings. They wear and get loose. Tightening them makes it all better but due to the lack of grease, pretty much just speeds up the wearing of the bearings. A very good local Yamaha mechanic told my friend Bob Dakin that these bearings are often shot at around 60,000 miles. In my opinion, that is simply because they don't put enough grease in them. We will start this pretty early on Friday. I would so probably around 8:30 - 9:00. I hope that you will put it on your schedule, it will be time well spent.
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Should I even worry about this for now, or just squirt some kinda spray lube on these spots (Swing Arm) ? I have 12,300 mile on my bike. I have removed the rear wheel and I am going to grease the main gears on the shaft and wheel and the fingers in the wheel (third time doing this, but finally with the Honda Molly 30 this time. Hard time finding it here). Are there supposed to be factory grease fittings on my 07 Tour Deluxe at the swing arm ? Anything else I should do while the rear wheel is off and bike is up ? I will clean and wax the hidden areas also while everything is off. Going back to garage to start cleaning the wheel and begin to grease. I am also changing oil and rear diff grease again. I have changed the rear diff grease twice already in the last 12,000 miles and three yrs and the oil & filter every 4000 miles. Be back in a little bit to see what you all think...... Update; did not see any grease fittings there in the swing arm. So maybe next yr at Freebirds Maintenance Day ??? Mmmmmmmm . Maybe just maybe the grease fitting mod would be doable. Now that would be great. Back to the garage.. *update 8:12 pm - had some company to come, got the diff oil changed and now draining the engine oil. Surprised no one has any info. The rear splines are all cleaned and greased with the Honda molly. Be back later, off to the garage again. Man I love that Bike lift. I got a steal of a buy on a new Harbor Frieght, one of the big red jacks that jack up the whole bike, sweeeeeet. Using along with the stand that I purchased from some one here a while back. Thanks in advance...... Fuzzy -
I plan to grease up every thing in the rear end and the driveshaft of my RSV while the tires off for some fresh rubber. Should I use moly 60 on all the gears and the hub fingers or should I used bearing grease on the hub gears and fingers?
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I've got my RSV on a lift to replace the fairing. While there I checked for looseness of the steering head bearings by grabbing the front end & rocking it. Never had any problems with it but thought I'd check while on the lift. I've got 40k on it. Don't see any looseness at all. So do I need to remove and retighten the nut or just leave well enough alone? Also, is there any greasing to be done? I don't see any grease around the area, but do see dirt that looks like it's glommed onto grease that's seeped out over the years...not a lot, but some. Just wondering if I need to do anything or if I should just leave it alone? Thanks for the help in advance...JR
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When ya trike a Venture do you use the swing arm? I was thinking of trying to find a way to install grease zerks in the swing arm so it doesn't have to be disassembled to grease the bearings. Does anyone have a 2nd gen rear swing arm that they would like to donate to the project. I would write an article and document the steps taken with pictures for our technical library. Any takers? Steve
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Hey folks I am in the process of changing my rear tire. I got it off the bike and thought I would clean and grease the drive hub,splines and pins. I have a tube of Super Tech Moly grease from Walmart in the shop and was wondering if this will do the trick or should I go get something else. thanks
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I just received my Mic Mutes the other day and I'm getting ready to install them. I've read that if you're going to split the fairing you might as well go through all the electric connections and make sure they are clean. I have also read that you should use dielectric grease to keep them from corroding. I have also read that you shouldn't get the grease on the connector pins just on the rubber boots. Any advice here would be appreciated. Thanks, Rich
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no, this isn't a joke ... but I figgured it would get somebody's attention I'll admit I am not very experienced when it comes to towing a trailer so I got to wondering.... do you put grease in the trailer tongue where the tow ball goes or just leave it dry?
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My speedo has started acting realy jumpy as slower speeds, it is fine when I get going good, but it bugs me. Do I need to grease or oil something?
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What do I put in here?
VentureBob posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hello Folks, I am assuming from the picture I have attached that the previous owner must have done the grease zerk mod for the drive shaft. However I have know idea what type of grease to use. Also can someone tell me if the shim that the red arrow is pointing to in picture is stock for my 85 VR or is this some kind of MOD as well. Thank you [ATTACH]48702[/ATTACH]
