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Showing results for tags 'glue'.
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I am building a little Tear Drop trailer and want to sheath the sides with aluminum .040" thick just like I did on the other one I made, so here is the question. I want to glue the aluminum to the wood sides of the body but the glue should not harden and become brittle it should stay tacky and pliable. The glue I used the last time was to thick and lump, so I was looking for alternatives. The stuff I use should be easily spreadable and lay down a thin coating. So do any of you have some suggestions on what kind of glue to use. I was thinking on using spray glue like they use on car interiors/upholstery (spray trim adhesive). From what I remember about the stuff it stays tacky and gooey and never hardens. It should hold the metal down but still allow it to move a little. Any body got any suggestion (that would be helpful)?
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Some idiot PO put some silly fishy things on the saddle bags with 2 sided tape now I washed it and peeled them off and now I have scratched the paint trying to get the glue off, does anyone have a solution to get the glue off without scratching the paint ? AND WHO WOULD RUIN A PAINT JOB AND PUT STUPID THINGS ON IT.........
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I believe I want to remove the tank badges and whiskers from the fairing. I have already removed the sticker from the tank and the 'Yamaha' from the trunk. For those I used WD-40 to get the glue off, then used wax to clean up the mess that the WD-40 just smeared around. First off, are the tank badges just double sided taped on? Or, am I going to have to fill holes like in the old days? Secondly, is there something out there better for getting the glue off than WD-40, that won't hurt the paint? WD-40 and wax does do it, but it takes alot of elbow grease too. And lastly, is there and easy was of getting these chrome items off without damaging them? - Just in case I want to put them back on at a later date. craigr
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Hey Guys, I just got back from my last big ride of the year and I know that many of you up further north are getting ready to put your bikes up for the winter. So, I thought this would be a good time for this friendly reminder that if you are considering letting me rework your seat (s), don't wait until next spring when you are getting close to putting your bike back on the road. I have been reworking about a couple of hundred seats a year and usually I'm real busy during the winter months. However this past spring, I was absolutely covered up with seats for riders getting ready for that first ride of the year. It's not really a problem in that I can turn around several seats in a day, but it would be better to string them over a longer period. And while I'm on the subject, I thought I'd update some of you of the damage I have been seeing on all of the RSV seats (to include the early 99-2001 standard, Midnight and pillowtop) as follows: 1. All of these seat have cords in the cover that go through the foam and are tied off at the bottom of the foam with a plastic disc. The early and Midnight seats only have 3 of the cords that hold the seat down at the back of the seat and the Pillowtop has 9 that creat the pillow effect. The holes in the foam create a weak spot which makes the foam susceptable to tear between these points. 2. The foam at the nose of these seats is rather thin and is also susceptable to tears from the pressure of the seat pan. 3. I see many tears in the cover at the bottom edge of the seat right in the area of the seat nuts. This comes from using an open ended 10mm wrench to remove the nuts rather than a 10mm socket which tears the vinyl. When I repair these tears, I also sell you a set of my Butler Built thumb nuts so you can take your seat off without any tools so this will not happen again. In each of these cases, I repair the tears just as part of my service. I treat every seat that I work on like they are mine, so I address any issue I see in the seat. With tears in the foundation foam, I glue the tear back together with my spray contact cement and then reinforce that area with heavy duty duct tape (which works well). With the tears in the bottom edge of the cover, I glue a patch on the inside using a heavy vinyl of the same color. And the glue I use (Goop) is there to stay. Then for those seat pans with busted studs, I have found that I can drill and tap the stud base with a 6mm bolt from the inside and get your seat stud back. But, I do charge a small amount to fix this problem. And for those of you who are not familiar with what I can do for your seats, take a look at my ad in the Classifieds that explains what I do as well as everything you need to send me your seat (s): http://www.venturerider.org/classifieds/showproduct.php?product=3738&title=butt-butler-seat-mod&cat=25 And like I said earlier, when you put your bike up for the winter, go ahead and send me your seat and don't wait until the ice is melting on the Mississippi River. And even though the word is getting out on me to other groups and referrals, I still am pretty much dedicated to the members of the VentureRiders (and your best kept secret). Thanks, Rick
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Do any of you know of an epoxy or similar glue for plastics that is black? My favorite, JB Weld, mixes up gray, and I want to do a little gluing on the CB dash panel where the glue may be seen a little bit. Thanks, Jeremy
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So my wife works for a guy who produces golf training aids (orangewhiptrainer.com). They are trying to find a better way to adhere a rubber mat to a plastic shell. Seems to me there should be something out there which will create a permanent chemical bond other then glue. Anybody out there know anything about plastics? Btw, I'm asking on my own, not at the request of my wife or her boss. Thanks
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My right side lower cowling to the right of the rad. and blocks the wind from your leg. And covers the air breather. It is broke from the mounting bracket. Anyone know of a good glue or epoxy I can use to try and fix it?
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I had a push pin broke off of the side panel. I tried something new and so far it works. Super glue and baking soda. I put the baking soda on first place the pin then put super glue on. It causes a reaction and gets real hard. So far so good.
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but I didn't realize they were still caught up inside the right lower. As some know the PO fell down and skinned up the the whole right side of my bike before I bought it. I knew this going in, so no big deal. Not sure what happened to the left lower, but the front two button head bolts are all that is holding both lowers on. Yesterday I decided to install my new wind deflectors that mount on the crash bars. Well the PO had just straightened the right one even though the top mounting hole was torn. The deflector did not look right, so I decided to install the new (to me) crash bar that has been on my shelf for too long. When I pulled the lower, the two broken mounting tabs fell out, Yay!!! The PO had tried to glue them back on with some type of hard white stuff. It didn't "weld" to the ABS. As the tabs edges would not sit flat down on the mating surface I didn't think the ABS glue would hold them, so I decided on reinforcement, ABS glue and epoxy. Not the prettiest repair, cause there are screw heads showing, but I suspect the tabs will not come off anytime soon! I found some sheet metal screws(they don't all match, but they don't show either) and installed them at 90 degree angles, then filled the cavities with (two part) epoxy. The epoxy may/may not stick to the ABS, but it WILL stick to the metal screws!
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When I got my RSV the previous owner had superglued the windshield chrome strip because he had broken off the end mounting tab that the screw goes thru. I poked around and ran across the Plastex kit. This is the first time I have ever used a glue type product and not made a mess. No glue on the fingers...no glue on the table...no glue on the stuff I wasn't trying to glue. I have no doubt that the tab is stronger than it was originally. The price for that part is around 140 bucks... the Plastex was 21 after shipping. I have enough left over to do this repair 100 times. Great product that works!! Frank
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ok maybe not glue but what do you use to repair cracks in the fairing and stuff? i have heard of plastic repair, pvc glue, plastic bond ect ect. i have a C shaped crack in my right side fairing where the lower the air tub goes in i think im right there? its the vent on the main part of the big side fairing that help? i dont want to have to remove the fairing and try to get to it from the inside. so can i just repair it from the out side? also is 40 mpg fair for the bike. i did find my poping its a exhaust leak down where on the right where it goes in to the collector main out side one not back one. the chrome shield is missing on that side and a little hole is in the pipe can this be welded?. i can live with it. right now. all in all with all the help i have gotten here. the bike is running well and comming along. and i did one thing i ran out of gas right in the yard but gauge showed one bar? hmmmm then parked it and nothing no bars? put it on reserve still no bar but fired up. so how much gas is in this sucker LOL i think ill just get a can and get some gas as nearest gas is 5 miles. thats what i get for playing and not paying attention.
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Changed to the Iso grips, like the larger diameter. I read some of the previous threads aboue glue. I tried the dish soap, didn't hold. Tried black gasket sealer, that didn't hold. I'm reluctant to use the Iso grip glue and they say its PERMANANT. I want to take them off here shortly and modify them to put the factory weights back on. Any suggestions as to what glue will hold them from turning and still be able to remove them from the bars without ruining them?
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Someone asked me how I converted my Tape Deck to a MP3 Player. The best info I have is here: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41100 I used Scotty's and Frankd's schematics to come up with one that works between the two. Here is a simplified color diagram I created. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/SimpliedInstructionsforMP3Input.jpg Here is where I located my 3PDT switch. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0955.jpg Here is the "tray" I made out of (aprox.) 1/4" thick clear acrylic plastic. I cut it out using a dremel and razor blades and then glued them using plastic glue. I got some simple hinges and drilled holes and screwed in screws (put plastic glue on threads). http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_0956.jpg I then cut off the rest of the screw that protruded through the plastic (cut slowly because it heats up fast!). After that, I placed a drop of glue over the rest of screw in hopes of it staying in place. After it's all dry and the holes are cut, I painted it with flat black paint on the inside and the blue paint to match the outside. Oh, almost forgot the magnetic latch assembly I installed as well... It was a pain to cut the plastic out and get it to fit...lots of glue to fill the voids. I also had to cut into the plastic face to make it fit. Notice the screws I used to hold it in place so that it doesn't shift. That may be required to keep it in place. Once again, cut off the excess protruding screw and cover it with either RTV or glue to prevent any scratching of items placed in there and backing out of screw. http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b160/warthogcrewchief/100_1056.jpg I found a "marine" grade 12V outlet. In installed it and then made one wire connect to a ground on the frame. The other wire connects to the right side of my accessory fuse spade and then the left side of the accessory fuse connects to the positive battery terminal. NOTE: I'm using the fuse box made by Skydoc_17 that mounts in place of the factory fuse box. *Something not mentioned in my schematic is that the common (ground) wire inside the 3.5mm headset wire is usually unshielded wire wrapped around each (Left and Right stereo) wire. You'll have to unravel the bare wire and twist the two together to make a common ground that connects to the black wire from the bike's cassette harness. EDIT: Here is where I found the "Marine Grade" 12v Outlet at Amazon.com [ame=http://www.amazon.com/Marine-Grade-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket/dp/B0002KRC5Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1274422515&sr=8-2]Amazon.com: Marine Grade Cigarette Lighter Socket 12 VDC: Automotive@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31BRN43V71L.@@AMEPARAM@@31BRN43V71L[/ame] -
I rode the new to me (used) RSV today and discovered the grips that the guy I bought the bike from are loose. I was riding along and the throttle grip started to turn on the plastic under piece throttle. I thought about using black Permatex silicone to glue on, but not sure that's the best answer. Does anyone else have suggestions?
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It sounds worse than it really is... At some point in its long life, my new to me '89 VR had fallen on its right side and damaged the chin fairing. One of the bolt holes on this side has been torn completely away. I'm wondering if someone might have a damaged chin laying around with a good right side? My plan is to graft this side onto mine using some glue I got from the plastic supply place. They say it's supposed to make a molecular bond with ABS plastic. We'll see when I try to repair the cracks... Any thoughts or help is appreciated.
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I saw on another site that plastic can be repaired with inexpensive PVC glue. While I haven't tried it yet, it makes sense. IIRC Lowes has glue for ABS drain pipe, which may even be better. Any one ever try this route?
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I guess after 11 years, what ever friction material holding the mirrors on my RSTC is starting to give up. I constantly have to readjust them. Short of super glue or duct tape has anyone come up with a way to tighten up the swivel joint between the back of the mirror and the mounting arm?
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i opened the trunk yesterday and the tab thet goes into the latch was still in the latch. it some how broke off is there any way i can glue it ansd if so what kind of glue do i use and also do you think i might be able to use fiberglass resin to hold it better?
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Where is a good place to find abs glue? I looked all over town and finally found some at SLOWES. When I got home I noticed the can said black. I don't want black I want clear. Thanks
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The left air vent grill by the handlebars on my 87 Venture broke off and I want to put it back on, the tab broke off where the screw goes. What is the best glue that will hold the tab securely? thanks
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what kind of glue do some of you use to hold the new kuryakyn grip on , the one side I can't seem to get it to tighten completly.
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Well, with all the nice weather approaching, and plans for rides in the making, I was checking over my bike, looking for anything amiss. And I found it. In reality it is not a big deal, but I will tell you what it is. I have been trying to dress up my 2006 RSTD since I bought it new last year. I have added many chrome bits, for safety reasons of course. ISO grips, LED tail light, chrome shifter pegs etc. And a chrome rear brake pedal. You can see the attached picture. It is chrome, with 3 rubber strips for traction. Well, 1 of the rubber strips has come off, and is lost and most likely lonely and scared along the side of some random road in Ontario. I noticed this today. I checked the other 2 strips, and they are hanging on by the slightest of threads it feels like. I will certainly have to remove them before my next ride. Now, the brake pedal will still function without the rubber strips I am sure. But here is the thing. I went to check the site that I bought the pedal from, to see if they still had them in stock, I was going to complain, and ask for a replacement, or see if it qualified for warranty. But I noticed something. On the same page the pedal is listed on, there are replacement rubber strips and glue available. What strikes me is, the rubber is NOT designed to fall off I am sure, but it happens so often, that they sell replacements, should Yamaha not redesign it so that this common problem is solved, rather than "re-sell" a fix? Do you know what I mean? It is clear from the 1 missing piece, that the adhesive does NOT stick to the highly polished chrome coating. If I do decide to buy replacements, do you think I should just scuff up the area covered by the rubber with a dremel or is there a better way to adhere it? I am going to remove the other rubber pieces later, and who knows, maybe I will like the look of solid chrome. I am not sure if I will noticed the lower traction, but I cannot see my foot slipping off the brake pedal. What do you think I should do? Ask for a replacement, or just suck it up and buy the replacement rubbers and glue? Sonny
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My front brake pads seem to be glued onto the callipers to preventing them from rattling. Is this in fact glue or maybe hi temp silicone? I want to change the pads and need to know what to use. Any ideas? Thanks Harry
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I have read literally hundreds of posts extolling the magical Sea Foam product that seems to be second only to duct tape and Gorilla glue when it comes to curing problems. I have tape and glue, but dangit, no Sea Foam. WHERE O WHERE may I purchase this wonderful elixer? Will it also reveal the true color of my wife's hair? Because I was sure I married a blonde and now, I'm not so sure. HELP.
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Those 1st gen lower fairing vents tend to flop shut every chance they get. Anybody got an idea how to stiffen them up so they'll stay open? Thank you, but no super glue tips please.
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