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Showing results for tags 'gaskets'.
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Correct me if I am wrong (not everyone at once), but don't we have someone on this forum that has the valve cover gaskets, and valve shim kit, that...if I buy the valve cover gaskets from them, they allow me to use the shim kit ??? This is for my '06 RSMTD.
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I finally finished installing all the crankcase covers. The dealer ordered the wrong gaskets. I don't understand how, when they have a picture right in front of them, and I pointed out the gaskets I needed. I topped off the fluids and went for a ride. The Temp gauge wouldn't quit climbing. Well, long story short, Rocket to the rescue. I now know there is a by-pass valve to assist in bleeding off any air in the system. I will continue to monitor this with short rides until there is overheating issues. Thanks Rocket! :happy34: -
I bought a set of OEM mufflers off ebay but didn't realize I would also need gaskets since aftermarket pipes don't use a gasket. So, does anybody have two gaskets for sale? Part #3xw-14714-00-00. Thanks.
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My Shop Bucket Shim Kit has returned home. If there is a member of the forum that would like to borrow it, please feel free to PM me. Here are my conditions, I charge nothing for the use of the kit, I ask that you purchase a set of Valve Cover Gaskets from me when I send the kit, You Pay the $15.00 USPS Insured, Priority Mail Shipping both ways. In the unlikely event you break the bucket shim tool, you replace it. If anyone is interested, Let me know. Earl
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I need a Stator and gaskets for my 2003 Yamaha Midnight Venture......Ricki or ricky stator is on back order! Anyone have some good info....I need the Stator and gaskets for stator cover and small cover behind it....Thanks Jerry K
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Hey guys, need info/help. I'm gonna split these up in seperate threads so as to not confuse anyone (myself). #1 Other than a dealer, what would be other good places to purchase bearsings (wheel, steering, swingarm), and gaskets for my 07 Venture?
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Do these covers do anything, or are they just for show? Mine are oxidized & I want to polish & paint them. If I take them off to redo them I won't have to replace any gaskets or cause a leak?
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ok. so im leaking oil from the top of the left side case cover. its spraying onto floorboard, not cool. i figure while i have it off, i might as well replace stator. should i go with a Ricks? or someone else. also, which gaskets am i going to need. the parts fiche is a little vague. should i do the r/r also? which vendor for that? any help would be appreciated. thanks. -
Will 07 valve covers fit on a 1st Gen. Same gaskets aren't they?
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Hi ... I have my collector box off. Contrary to popular wisdom, removing it was quite quick and easy, no doubt helped by one of the front header stubs being completely fractured. I thought the collector had the infamous rattle, but apparently not, when I shake it, it's silent. So ... I need to get the stub weded back on, and a couple of small cracks closed up, which will be easy enough. My question is about gaskets. There are six, and they are expensive. There are two part numbers 3JJ-14653 and 3JJ-14623. Boats.net lists them separately at $15.72 and $25.85 respectively. Cheapcycleparts.com also lists them, but has replaced the 14623 part number with 14653. This is a significant bonus, if their substitution works. Does anyone know, and can confirm, that these two part numbers can be substituted, or not? Thanks
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I need to fix the gear indicator and have read in the tech section that I will probably need new gaskets and O-ring. Is there a good place to get them in Canada? -
Hello, After four years not running I have scraped together enough time and money to get my 84 Royale running if I buy one set of carb gaskets and cut the rest by hand. (3 kids in college) I am wondering were I might get the best price on a single set of carb gaskets *and* a single vacuum piston (buddy who is helping called it a 'slider'). Thanks very much. Mitch & Kim Graves 118 S Fillmore St Edwardsville IL 62025 -
I have the cam covers off, and the gaskets need replacing. I read somewhere that the gaskets from a later model (RSV?) were better than the original VR versions. Does anyone know what part is best? The valve clearances themselves are just a fraction under the minimum clearances .... maybe .01 to .02mm all round. The engine has 56k on it. That's actually not bad, especially the very even wear aspect of it so I will leave them alone for the summer and check again in the Fall. By that time I can find out which shims I'll need, and won't mind waiting for them. In the meantime it will come to no harm. Thanks. -
Hi folks! One quick question. I took the mufflers off to replace the rear tire and want to know if the gaskets are an "always replace" item or if they can be reused. They're stuck pretty good on the pipe but overall look smooth. I want to get a no leak job, can I use the gaskets over and simply remount the mufflers? Thanks! Jim -
Attached is a list of gaskets, o-rings and other goodies that I am replacing in 1300 motor. All of the part numbers listed are for an 88 1300. For the most part these will be the same as the 1200. Head gaskets will differ for one. This is not everything that I am replacing, but it is the gaskets & o-rings mainly. Also includes everything in the oil pump galleys. Couple of optional things like the neutral pin on the shifter drum are included. Water bypass joint in heads needs to be removed to pull heads off. These are a pain to get out intact, but the sometimes can be saved. A question was asked in another unrelated thread about the list to fix the transmission in a MKI. This list is assuming heads are removed, case split, & all rubber stuff replaced. Some items are shown as not required or may be reused. Prices are from partshark.com I did elect to upgrade the shifter segment components as well. There is a complete gasket kit available for the MKI's from Athena. It runs around $220 I think. I didn't go this route due to what I saw of the kit, each component was not individually marked. Some of the o-rings have subtle differences as to where they go. Gary -
I just got my V-Twin clamps and have fabricated mounting brackets for the RK Classic muffler (# 98a) install. My ? is, are there exhaust gaskets that i need to purchase? Are there exhaust gaskets at all? I want to make sure I have everthing before I start the change out. Thanks, Byron
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I have a 07 venture that i purchased new in 08, it has 40,000 miles on it and realy like this bike. Problem is that i have already had in the shop twice to fix water getting in the final drive and now the head gaskets are leaking. I know it is under warranty but this has me concerned for the future. Did i get a lemon or are there others with same problems?
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i just had a shift pin put in i have oil leaking on the lfet side if bike were can i get gaskets from
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Hello, I have an 85 Venture Royale I picked up in pieces. Unfortunately the previous owner was nice enough to drop the carburetors off to get repaired and they were completely disassembled (a few torn diaphragms) and cleaned. Unfortunately, they were never reassembled and the gaskets inside the fuel bowl were removed and the fuel bowl o-rings were trashed. The bodies of the carbs look great! They also look like a crazy jigsaw puzzle with pieces missing. By the time i buy new diaphragms and gaskets think it may be cheaper to get a set off EBay roughly $300.00 for a used set. However they are mostly second Gen 1300cc carbs. Question 1: Did they change the bore size of the carb along with the displacement or did they just re-jet the carb? Question 2: Can you swap the carbs from the later years to earlier Question 3: Anybody just have a set of carb for a 1st Gen for sale, or maybe know a guy? Thanks in advance -Ben
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Where Is a good Place to get 2 gaskets for my newly aquired Jardines to put on my 93 VR? -
I am sure there are a few on here that have dealt with leaky valve covers. My 83 with 122,000 miles on it have the original valve cover gaskets. I did do a valve clearance check years ago, but still used the same gaskets. Mine has gotten so bad that it was normal to have a couple of drips off the engine while parked. I also had oil residue on about everything, even my shoes. So, here is how I fixed it. One of the characteristics that was used on the valve covers was using shoulder bolts. This limits the amount of torque or squeeze that can be put on the gaskets and also keeps everything uniform. This is not a bad idea as long as the gaskets have some spring left in them. What I did was I stopped by an auto parts store and bought a buck or so of 1/32nd thick gasket material. I then removed the side covers and the plastic covers that sit on top of the valve covers. I then removed the two outside bolts on the valve cover. I put the bolts in a vice and using a screw driver, pulled the rubber seals off along with the metal washer. Using a hole punch, I made a hole in the gasket material slightly smaller than the bulge on the bolt. I also took scissors and trimmed the outside diameter about the same size as the washer. I then put the gasket on the bolt, then the washer and then the seal. After I seated the seal, I then screwed the bolt back into the valve cover hole, snugging it down, but not bottoming the bolt. I then removed the other two bolts on that side and put gaskets on them. After all eight bolts were back in place, I tightened them down until the shoulder bolt bottomed out. This actually caused oil to squeeze out around the cover gasket. After I tightened all eight bolts, I replaced the plastic cover and went to the other head. After doing this last week, I have put about 300 miles on the bike and the engine is still clean of oil residue and my shoes are also clean. This is not a hard job, costs a buck or so and it works. RandyA -
Well, after getting my '87VR back together I had 2 stuck carb needle/seat assemblies. So I decided since the old girl had over 70k...it was time for a complete going thru of all carbs. I have put 99% of all the miles on this bike. So I know how it should run. I have done carb work many times on many different bikes. So I was not afraid. Jets were removed, jet blocks "dipped". I set the floats absolutely perfect on the bench and confirmed w/engine running. Results have been all carbs give an ideal idle of 2.5ccw low speed screw all carbs. While #1 & 2 cause rpm drop right at 3 ccw. Which is quite normal to me. BUT on #4(rght. frnt) I can go to 5 turns ccw and not cause the idle to drop and #3 is almost the same. Which is not normal to me. All settings done with an accurate digital tach. Carbs are syc'd.All checks for vacuum leaks done. None found nor suspected because... HERE's the real issue. #4 starts to misfire when the bike is really hot, seemingly like too rich. I can hear the spark cap arcing and using a screw driver and my finger(ouch)confirmed this. Wire replaced 2 times, spark plug & cap(stock and NGK) 3 times-no change. The spark plug is not wet when it is removed. But does have a very small brown spot on it. I suspect something like this may be impossble to read w/o that glass spark plug thing(can't remember the name).I honestly believe the new internal gaskets that are now the "norm", don't seal worth a damn. These new cheapo gaskets are very fiberous.I suspect they don't seal well. The originals were hard paper. Does anyone else whose done rebuilds have the same suspicions regarding these NEW gaskets...? My only other possibility is the choke plunger leaking. But this possibility is something I have never witnessed in all my years. Lastly , I used to always get over 40mpg solo... Now it's impossible. No, I am not going to lower the needles. That's not the issue here.
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Please let me Apologize for the delay in the shipping of the Second Gen. Clutch Spring Upgrade Kit I am offering in the Classifieds. Because of the unexpected volume of orders, I have purchased all of the clutch springs and clutch cover gaskets that were in stock at the two vendors I do business with. They are, as we speak replenishing their supplies and will ship the springs and clutch cover gaskets to me as soon as they arrive. Some members have received their kits, but many have not and I assure you that as soon as my shipments of clutch springs and clutch cover gaskets arrive, I will ship the remainder of the kits purchased. To be honest, I didn't expect this overwhelming response to the ad. I am making every effort to fill these orders as quickly as I can. I have even gone to the two local Yamaha dealers in the area and purchased Clutch Cover Gaskets at RETAIL price to get some of these orders out in a timely manner, to the point that I have depleted the supply of gaskets in my area, and still have not been able to fill all of the orders. If this delay is a problem for ANY VR.ORG member, please contact me, and I will refund your money ASAP! In closing, I only ask that you give me a little more time, I found a GREAT deal on these parts and am trying to share it with my fellow VR.ORG riders. For the delay, I again Apologize! Earl
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Ok.....I'm at that point. Got all my other stuff done and pulled the valve covers to replace the seals and gaskets due to a seep on the rear head and check the valve lash. Thought I was being the bright guy and removed the "hard" one first. The front. Only had to remove the bolts from the radiator and pull it ahead a bit. Pretty much slid out except for a little drag across the chain sprockets. Then the "easy" one....the rear.....oh yeah! Not so easy. Hung up pretty good on the sprockets and was a bear to work out of there. (Should have done this when I had the gas tank out) Now I got the covers all cleaned up.....got the 2nd gen gaskets sealed into the covers....got all 16 of the plugs on the bolts replaced. So.....any advice on what else I can do to give myself a little more room to work the covers back into place without scraping the gaskets back off? Bike is naked.....fuel line and overflow lines are out of the way. Do I need to pull the coolant lines to the heads? Maybe take the coolant hose off the top of the radiator to give me more room? Suggestion? Just trying to avoid a fist fight with my sweety. She does give me a hard time now and then. LOL! Thanks Mike -
I am going to replace my Cobra slash cut drag pipe mufflers (soon to be for sale) with the original OEM mufflers on my 97 Royal Star Classic. When I look at the parts diagram (see attached) for the exhaust, it looks as if I need to replace as many as 10 gaskets just by changing mufflers (parts 2; 6(2); 10; 14(2); 18(2) and 22(2)) at a cost of approx $160 delivered which is almost as much as I paid for the OEM mufflers! Does anyone know exactly which gaskets truly need to be replaced when changing back to all 4 OEM mufflers? I'd obviously like to have them on-hand when I do the swap. Thanks!
