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Showing results for tags 'gage'.
Found 9 results
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Was riding to work this morning, got about 10 minutes from home, and happened to look down at the volt gage - sitting smack in the middle of the "12" - at speed, engine turning a normal RPM, no excessive electrical loads turned on. Hmm...this is not normal... My volt gage is normally very consistent and actually quite accurate. SOOO - thankful that I looked at the gage and caught the problem while the battery was still charged and keeping everything going - I turned the Venture around and exchanged it for my Virago. No time to check anything out yet, but I noticed on the way home that the gage does dip below 12 when the engine is idling and climbs a tiny bit to the 12 when revved, which sounds just like years ago when the Virago had one of its stator coils short out - it kept charging just a tiny little bit, enough to keep the engine ignition working, but not enough to run the headlight. So I need to do the tests to confirm, but I need to know what's out there nowadays for stators. Is there still a company that makes an upgraded stator for the old Ventures? Jeremy
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I'm hooking up 2 acessories and would like to know what gage wire and fuse to use on each? Hooking up a set of 55 watt Plattieum Burners driving lights. Hooking up 4 of these horns STEBEL MAGNUM DUAL TONE MOTORCYCLE HORNS MHS-22 CHROME Also
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Can someone help me figure this one out on my 2002 Venture? My low fuel light no longer comes on. My fuel gage still works however it no longer switches over to F and counts up showing how far I’ve gone at my reserve level. I have checked the bulb and it is OK. So my question is this. Is it possible that my fuel-sending unit in the tank is still faulty even though it does work for the fuel gage? What other things should I check before changing the sending unit or how can the sending unit be tested to know if it needs changed?
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Has any one else notice that with the front raked that the oil level in site gage at 3.5qt oil is above the gage filled mine to top of gage which is not the full 3.5 qt that the mannual calls for will this cause any problems on starving the motor on oil
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Happened for the first time today. Went out for a ride with almost a full tank of gas, look down and the warning light is on and it's showing empty. I eased it for another few miles to the next station with my butt sucking a hickey on the seat because I didn't know if the gage went out or if I had a leak and was actually out of gas. Filled up and it only held about 1 1/2 gallons, rode about another 150 miles and the gage would go from showing completely full to bone dry empty and back again. Filled up a few miles from home and I had only ran out another 1/2 tank or so. Where do I start to fix this blasted thing??? -
OK, here what I need to know, how fardo you or can you go once you switch petcock to reserve. My fuel gage light comes on at roughly 182-185 miles and i swiitch to reserve, fill up and it takes about 4 to 4.7 gallon. Why does fuel gage light come on so early if I have a 6 gallon tank? I have over 6,000 miles on RSV in 5 months and have never put more than 4.7 gallon in it. So how far can I still go with 1.3 gallon left and 2 bars showing. How far can you go on your reserve? thanks Brian D.
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Help! Took my 83 out last night. BTW MarCarl, she's still running GREAT!! Except I look down and notice that the Temp Gage isn't working. It just sits on the bottom. Now my questions are: is this something to worry about? and how do I fix it? Thanks everyone!
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My fuel gage went from working part time to not working at all. So over the weekend I done a last minute repair before vacation next week.The fuel float assembly is attached to a mechanical wiper arm that brushes across a wire wound resistor in the control unit. As the float bowel moves with a change in fuel tank level the resistance varies from 0 ohms Full to 330 ohms empty. 1. Place bike on center stand,remove seat,unplug the sender connector and clean around the 4 bolts holding fuel float and sender unit in tank. 2. Make sure there is less then a full tank of fuel before removing the bolts and lifting unit off of the seal. 3. Maneuver the assembly around as needed to lift the sender unit,and float rod assembly out of the tank.This can be done without removing the gas tank 4. Take the unit to a clean working area and dry off before working on the sender. 5. Take a small screwdriver flat blade and gently pry off the sender cover side housing. Be careful not to break the 3 metal tabs securing the cover. 6. Now remove all rust particles and loose debris trapped in the sender unit. Spray clean the mechanical wiper arm with an electrical contact cleaner. Using an ohm meter you can measure the resistance at the output terminals. Raising the float 0 ohms and dropping to empty open circuit.The wire wound resister varies from 0 to 330 ohms. 7. In my situation the wiper arm had to be gently bent to add tension so a better contact could be made. I even found the resister bowed in the middle and had to bend it back in to position. 8. When your satisfied with your repairs you can re attach the side cover and plug the sender back into the wiring harness,turn on the key and test your gage before re installing in the tank.Vary the float level and watch your gage indication change. Make sure your float is good before re installing. P/S For your comfort there is a small voltage/current flowing through the wiper arm from the fuel gage. So if your gage arc's while setting on 4 gallon you won't feel a thing. A new meaning to the term After Burners. -
i just install a oil pressure gage on my 86 and changed my oil , 15 - 40 rottla dino , no oil pressure !! bled the oil gage and oil filter , have oil flow but no oil pressure , any body know how much oil pressure we are supposed to have ?? i warmed the motor up a little run the rpm up to 2500 . i have a oil cooler and after market remote oil filter .
