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Showing results for tags 'fuel'.
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New to me 2011 Venture trike. Had it for 5 weeks; 3,000 miles after replacing fuel pump on the fourth day of ownership. Been running flawlessly since then until this morning. After I rode it home yesterday, I installed my new Grip Puppies. That is only change to trike. This AM I started it; ran well with choke out (50°) but after warm up would not stay running with choke in. Rides well as before; if I leave choke in it stalls when I downshift or stop. A little throttle will keep it running at stoplights. Grip puppies are not restricting throttle movement at all. Wondering how twisting Grip Puppies on would mess with idle, and how to diagnose and fix issue. Hoping forum can help; I have been away from Ventures for 2 years (after 25 years and 230,000 miles of faithful service) and have forgotten some stuff. (Harley trike proved to be a $20,000 disaster...) -
1983 venture. When warm, falls of face with any throttle. -
I'm having a hard time finding where I have some fuel seeping from after using the choke to start on cold mornings. I do have significant cracks in the rubber intake manifolds that I suspect my be letting the fuel weep through, and the leak is up high. Any thoughts? -
Started up the 87 VR today and pumping fuel onto the ground behind the center stand. It looks like it is coming from the bottom front of the fuel tank. Only running out (very heavy) when engine is running. Is the fuel pump located there? Is there information on taking it apart so I can determine what is leaking? Thanks for the help Mike
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When removing the fuel tank from the MC I disconnected the fuel hose from the fuel valve and the brass tube that the hose connects to came out of the fuel valve and remained in the fuel hose. Can I just reinsert the brass tube in the fuel valve, or will that cause the valve to leak gas?
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If I turn on the key, and the run switch, the fuel pump will not cycle. I unplugged the connection to the pump, used a circuit tester, and confirmed it is getting power to the connection, and is cycling for about 5 seconds on start up. Plugged it back into the pump, and got nothing with cycling key and run switch off and on. However, did notice the connection started to get hot. Unplugged the connection, ran jumper wires straight to the fuel pump plug, and it just sparks, does not pump at all. Is there a way to rebuild these? Or just replace them? Thanks
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Well folks, I have been having some weird issues with my 2001 RSV and I am not really sure if they are in fact issues or related so here we go... Summary of 'symptoms': 1) Engine cut out (like someone hit the cut off switch; engine died only, no stumbling/starving for fuel, no interruption on the radio) when shifting from first to second and from second to first 2) Engine sometimes cranks for a long time before starting (happens hot or cold) More detailed explanations of each: (1) It was a slightly cooler morning (30s-40s ish) but not any cooler than it had been in prior weeks, and I did what I ALWAYS do before leaving for work. Come out to the garage, load my crap in the trunk, turn the fuel on, start the bike (no choke necessary - my garage stays reasonably warm), back out of the garage, give the bike 10-20 seconds, tweak the throttle to check for proper warm-up time, all is good so I take off. While driving up the road, no more than a few hundred yards from my house (somewhere between 20 and 30 mph) I go to shift into second, as soon as I push the shift lever the motor dies. It was a near instant cut out - ie no starving for fuel, no stumbling, no chugging etc. The first thing I check is the engine cut off switch (sometimes I bump it with my thumb), then the side stand, all is good so I pop the clutch and it starts right back up. I immediately u-turn and roll back home (I live downhill from where I was), pull in the drive way and inspect stuff. I turn the key off and back on to check for the fuel pump noise (which was present and clicking like it should). I checked the side-stand switch, clutch safety switch, etc etc and all seemed fine. Decided to give it another go, bike started right up and I rode to work with no problems. This happed 2-3 weeks ago. I had assumed that I had maybe not let the bike warm up enough, tweaked the throttle while shifting and maybe it cut out. This morning, I rode in (temperature ~70) and stopped at the bank. The bike is plenty warm at this point. Pulling out of the bank, all goes fine until I start to slow down for a stop sign, again a few hundred yards from the bank, go to down shift into first and the engine dies. Just like before, all of the electronics stayed on without interruption (radio played continuously, etc etc) and it was like I had hit the engine shut off switch but I did not. I do not recall hitting any big bumps or whatever either, it was a smooth patch of road. I do not recall this morning if I tapped the starter to restart the bike or just popped the clutch; either way it started right back up and it ran fine the rest of the way back to work. When I left my house, I know for sure the fuel pump did its clickity thing because I heard it. As a result of issue (2) I have been making a point of shutting the petcock off 2-4 miles from my house so that I can verify the pump operational everytime I start my bike. The fact that this engine cut out when shifting has happened twice now has be beginning to think that maybe it is a real issue or at least something to investigate. (2) Issue number two that may or may not be related is the occasional really long cranking time required to start my bike on occasion. I first noticed it last Thursday (8 days ago) I was about 200 miles into a ride and it started to get dark, I pulled over to the shoulder to change out my sunglasses for my clear safety glasses. All was running well until I went to start my bike. I hit the starter button and the bike cranked but did not start right away like it usually does. I cranked it in a few bursts of about 3-5 seconds each then shut off the ignition, turned the petcock to off and let the bike sit for a minute or so (thinking maybe it was flooded). After letting it sit for 1-2 minutes I turned the key back to the on position, hit the starter and it fired right up. Turned the gas back to the ON position then took off. The bike ran fine for the rest of the evening. Friday morning, it was around 40 with rediculously high humidity (70+%) and the dew was really thick. [i was parked at a hotel as I was traveling for work]. I went out loaded up for the day and went to start the bike and it behaved similarly, it took several rounds of cranking before it eventually started (I turned the gas OFF over night and made sure to pull the choke all of the way out and turn the gas ON before trying to start it). After some cranking, similar to the previous day's behavior, it started right up and ran fine for my ride into where I was working that day and then back to the hotel again, that evening. The next day started off the same, weather wise, and the bike started without hesitation in the morning. I left work around noon and stopped by the local motorsickle dealership to paroose a bit before heading back home and when I went to restart my bike (after chatting with someone who was looking at a purdy RSTD adn telling him how reliable these bikes are ) I had a repeat of these symptoms - long cranking time before actually starting). The bike ran fine all ~300 miles back home so . I was careful to not stop on the side of the road and I stopped for fuel every 100 miles just in case it was bad gas or something. Since then this long cranking symptom has been present a few times and it seems to occur at inconsistent intervals (sometimes when the bike is warm and sometimes when it is cold). I drained my float bowles and the first round of fuel that came out looked awfully clear and smelled very weakly of gasoline. I left one of the float drain screws open and flowing into a glass jar while allowing the fuel pump to cycle and it pumped out just fine. After that first round the fuel came out looking like I expect good fuel to look and smell. For kicks, I did mix some fresh fuel with a few OZ of sea foam and pumped it straight into the carbs and let it sit that way overnight, re-drained in the morning then put fresh fuel in the tank and rode for a little bit. Again, driving/riding wise the engine seems to run fine. I have had a couple of these long crank times since I did the carb bowl drain, but it has only been maybe 2 or 3 times since last Saturday (my bike is my primary mode of transportation and it has been started several times within the last week). I feel like this could be a weak, intermittant or failing fuel pump but am not really sure what else it could be. My next course of action will be to change the fuel filter (current one has less than 10k miles on it, but if I did get a bit of bad fuel somewhere, I know it can clog in a hurry) and go ahead and put in new spark plugs (I am approaching 8k miles on the current set of plugs). I checked the header pipes during warm up and after riding for a while (IR thermometer) and all four are within 10 or so degrees of each other. I have been paying extra close attention to the fuel pump 'clickage' [suspecting a weak or intermittent fuel pump] and am strongly considering just replacing the dumb thing so I don't get stranded somewhere... I am at a loss for what else could be causing these symptoms and if these are even related to each other so I am all ears for suggestions of things to check, inspect, pay attention to or whatever. Thanks a lot! As usual, I am coming up to a departure date for a ~1-2 week ~6k mile ride and crap starts going wrong... yea me. :sign09: -
Ok so being that my New2Me 91 VR has only 6700 miles, I decided to drain the gas tank. Being that I had a heck of time doing that with my 89VR at the fuel filter, I decided it would be easier to do it at the Fuel Off/On switch on my 91VR. So I removed the hose clamp and then broke some of the seal from the rubber to the brass fitting, the hose would not come off. So I pried and pried at the hose until it finally came out. Well what came out was the brass fitting from the fuel Off/No switch. With some more digging the brass fitting finally broke loose from the hose. Well on the brass fitting there were some hose particles. Which means that I will need to clip off the end of the hose where the pieces of hose came off. I took some steel wool and got the rubber off the brass fitting. I drained the tank by using a 2 ft long fuel line and put it over the one end of the brass fitting and then gently placed the other end back into the fuel Off/On switch. Then drained the gas into the can. So now I need to get the brass fitting back into the Fuel Off/On switch. Now all the while draining the tank I only pushed and held the brass fitting into the Fuel switch and not a single drop of fuel leaked from the brass fitting. The brass fitting only went in a little bit and has more room to go into the fuel switch. My though is that I should be able to use some permatex gasket sealer (used on fuel sending units) and then press it all the way back into the fuel Off/On switch. So my question is, does my fix seem workable, or is there a better fix?
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Hi, my friend with XVZ13 Venture has following problem: his motorcycle is lugging at acceleration from 2000 - 2500RPM to full throttle values from dynojet (gauged at 37.500 mil, now drived 38.000 mil): - 95 nm - 77 HP Others data: - compression: 13 - 14 atm - new carburettor membranes (main and acceleration) - new plugs - new filters (fuel, air) - underpressure OK - exhaust gas oxygen sensor 1,100 +- - CO2 1,2 Any ideas are welcome. Best regards, Jarda Horak
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Hey all. It's been a while. Been riding too much to spend time in front of the computer! I think I have a problem. Went out to go for a ride this afternoon, and out of the blue, she wouldn't fire. ('07 RSV) Always fires on the first crank. I pulled the choke out all the way, and if I cranked it a while, she'd finally catch and idle real slow. If I touched the throttle or choke, she stalled. Then I started replaying my actions in my mind, and realized I never heard the fuel pump clicking. Off with the seat and side panel. Tapped on the pump with my fingertip, and when I turned on the ignition, the pump ran like the carbs were clear empty. Now it seems fine. Starts and runs like new. Is my pump trying to tell me something? Do they give warning before they fail? This was a New Old Stock bike, that might still be under warranty. Will the dealer replace the pump because I said it was having a fit? Looks like my Christmas road trip is out the window. Thanks for any help and opinions. Bert
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This will be kind of a long one, so read the first paragraph then you will see if you want to skip the first section on fuel pump rebuilding. The other two sections are not very long. If you want to read about gravity feed (fuel pump bypass) go to my next post in this thread. If you want to read about the Cheap Ebay Fuel Pump, go to my third post in this thread. Last week my RSV was leaking lots of fuel while I had it running to warm up for a ride so I had to abandon my ride and figure out what needed fixing. It turned out to be the fuel pump; it was leaking lots of fuel from the seam where the two halves come together. Apparently this is not a common failure and I could not find a diagram of the fuel pump exploded into component parts. It is only listed as a complete assembly, although you can replace the points if needed. New pumps cost approx. $200 for OEM so I began researching what my alternatives would be: Repair, replacement, or bypass Since I could not find a diagram of what’s in the pump, I decided to see if I could have a look for myself. Hopefully I would see something that can be tightened, patched, or replaced! Nothing to lose right? I removed the pump from the bike and took off the metal mounting clamp that secures the pump onto the bike. I wiped the pump clean and concluded that what holds it together are the little tabs that are bent over the middle seam. In this pic I have already pried them open to separate the two halves. (Now I wonder if the first thing I should have tried was to just hammer all the tabs down tighter!) The next pic shows the two halves apart, and a large washer and very thin gasket that were inside. The half on the left has a rubber diaphragm that is ‘pinned’ to the unit at its center, so the metal washer and gasket had to be pulled up from under the diaphragm by flexing the diaphragm through the hole in the washer. I hope I explained that well enough, because I don’t have a good picture of that. Anyway, the washer and gasket went where the red arrow points, with the flimsy little gasket going between the metal washer and the metal pump body. After looking things over, I decided it seemed that the most likely cause of the leak was the little gasket. Did I mention it was really thin, floppy, and flimsy? I tried to put it back together but couldn’t get the washer and gasket over the diaphragm again without distorting or wrinkling the gasket. It looked like it needed to be seated perfectly and in such a tight space, I wasn’t sure I had done it. (To shorten this part of the story up….it didn’t work. Gas still came out of the seam so I took it apart again, still pretty sure the gasket was the problem.) Next, I went to the local Napa and asked if they had thin, gas-proof gasket material, and showed the guy my pump. He went in back (they are an auto repair shop also) and came up with a partial sheet of 1/32 gasket material that he said should work, and gave it to me for free. I traced the washer on the gasket sheet and then cut it out with a razor. I reassembled the pump and hammered the tabs back down. I gently blew into the ‘inlet’ stem and it made kind of a honking noise, which I took as a good sign because no air was coming out of the seams as far as I could tell. I installed it and turned on the key. It made the usual clicks for a moment, then stopped once pressurized, and did not appear to be leaking. I started it and let it run for a few minutes and then turned it off. I felt around the pump and my fingers did not get gas on them. I let it sit for a while longer then felt it again and there was a very small drop on my finger from the underside of the pump. I pulled it out again and looked it over. I wiped it off and blew in it but still no obvious air leak and a good ‘honk’. Then looked at all the metal tabs and realized some of them could be tapped down a little tighter and more evenly. Doing this did seem to tighten things up and may have been good enough, but I decided to do one more thing. I have some metal HVAC tape so I wrapped the pump body with it twice around. I put the mounting clamp around the middle of the pump, which helps tighten the tape like a hose clamp would and put a hose clamp on the other side. See pic I went for a 30 mile test ride, stopping frequently to feel for gas on the pump, and so far it is working. I’ll leave that side cover off next time I ride so I can keep checking until I am satisfied it will hold.
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I ran into another local rider today at Cabela's in Sidney NE. Chatted about the upcoming riding season. He mentioned that last fall he intended to take a ride on his 97 RSTD. However he discovered that his petcock gasket failed, leaked the entire fuel tank contents into the carbs and flooded the cylinders and crankcase. Is this a common problem? Good reason to turn off the petcock when stored? He indicated he was going to have the local dealer look at it. Thoughts, ideas.....
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Another post jogged my memory to ask about this. I notice on my '06 that when the low fuel indicator comes on, the mileage indicator changes to the trip meter. Is this normal? Can it be stopped? Does anyone else have this happen and do you find it a good thing?
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Left work tonight and got about a mile down the road and the bike died, as though it had run out of gas. Tried to restart and it didn't even try to fire. I turned the key off and on and noticed just a single click. Does a mile sound about right if the fuel pump is not working? I tried the key several more times and heard several clicks and was lucky enough to get it started and got home. Is that a typical fuel pump problem? Is there anything else I should check? What about warranty? Thanks Mark
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Noticed bike losing power a little. Yesterday it gave up 1.5 miles from the house. Thought it might be clogged filter. Nope. But I will change it anyhow since I got it out. Bypassed the pump and bike fires right up. WILL NOT run if fuel lines are connected to pump. Is it safe to run it by gravity feed? -
I've had some issues with my RSV cutting off since I got some bad gas. I've run a couple bottles of Seafoam through and I just changed the fuel filter. It will start fine with the choke open but if I don't let it warm up it will die going down the street. Once it dies it will start right back with the choke open again. Lat night I was on the interstate and it quit. I pulled in the clutch and let it out a couple times and it started back up. It just seems strange. Would a fuel pump go out a little at a time like that? I've been through a number of tanks of gas since the bad tank and I still get the same stuff. Any ideas?
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My 06 Midnite Venture quit on me this morning 5 miles out of Three Rivers, Michigan, and left me sitting on the side of the road for 20 minutes before it would start again. The same thing happened 10 days ago in Maryland. The symptoms: Cruising in 4th gear or so, the engine acts like it is starving for fuel (or that the kill switch has been hit - it wasn't) Coast to a stop, engine won't start. Yes I tried the kill switch, checked the pitcock - fuel flows from tank. No start. Yes, I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I have normal dash lights indicated. There's no smell of flooded engine. No leaks, no smoke, but no start. 20 minutes later (both times) the engine starts and runs normally. Since the incident in Maryland, I have put over a thousand miles on the bike (MD, VA, WV, OH, IN and now MI). The only weird thing today when it finally started was that I pulled the choke on and then off while starting and it suddenly fired up. When it did, it was more like an electrical connection being made than the choke clearing. There was no coughing and sputtering. No smoke, no smell. Engine ran fine to the motel in Niles where we are staying. Any ideas or suggestions before we hit the road Thursday heading South? Thanks for mulling it over. Lynn
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Ever since I purchased my 2006 Midnight this summer, I had burned Premium fuel as recommended by the previous owner and my fellow RSV riders here. The bike is a Yank bike, it's ODO is in miles but the pumps here are in Litres so on the road fuel mileage conversions suck.. lol.. However, 'on average', when I pull up to the pumps, I put 1 litre of fuel per 10 miles on the ODO.. in other words, if the ODO shows 170 miles, I'm putting in close to 17 litres of fuel into the bike. When you do the math and all, I'm getting roughly 44 mpg (Imp or US?).. And this fluctuates a bit depending if I'm doing a lot of slow speed 5th gear riding or high revs curve blasting.. Yesterday I thought to myself.. "Self, why spend more money on Premium when Reg is cheaper.. there can't be THAT much of a difference in mpg or performance, can there?" So I filled it up with Reg gas and went on a loooong run last night.. Yesterday, Reg was $1.33 / Litre and Premium $1.39 / Litre.. (and I never want to hear another yank whining about high fuel prices, come up here to do that.. over $5 a gallon here, and worse in Europe) Omg.. what a difference.. I'd never get anywhere on regular gas!! On average there was a 40 MILE difference to the range of that tank. When I went to fuel up, the bike took 17 litres but I only managed to get about 131 miles distance.. Now THAT is scary.. this was the average on two fills and two runs. On Premium fuel, I would average 40 mpg / 48 mpg (US/CDN) On Regular Fuel I would average 30 mpg / 37 mpg (US/CDN) Needless to say I can go further and spend less money to get there by running premium If my milage appears lower than norm, I'm running K&N and HD slash cut exhaust. Your milage may well differ ; )
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Looking to install a auxilary fuel tank and was wondering if we can install fuel line directly to existing line from tank or do we have to install another peckcock then add lines to that? I know that the rsv's are not fuel injected but with the fuel pump set up i'm wondering if it's the same.
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Wow... I mean WOW. Earl told me to start doing it... so Monday this week, I went to autozone after work--and after my paycheck deposit--I picked up two 16 oz bottles of SeaFoam, and CarbCleaner (to try Earls onbike carb clean). I got home, I'm looking over things. I start the Venture up, and she fires up on three cylinders. Just sitting there for a few minutes and she keeps at it. I turn her off, and pop the fuel cap, I rough guess two ounces of seafoam, because I didn't have much fuel left. Put the cap back on, and turned the key. I let the fuel pump run, and just let her sit there (she's on the tender too) I then start her up. Three cylinders fire... after 20 seconds she starts coughing. I noticed she's getting rougher and then... I hear the fourth cylinder fireing. She's clearing up and I rev her up nice and slow, and she's going, she's clear, clean. I didn't ride her tuesday, but today, I rode her to work. I'm gonna clock out early today to do the on-the-bike carb clean, but still, this is one awesome not painful lesson I learned. USE SEA FOAM! (I'll be buying another for my dad, his GoldWing sneezed)
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Hello All, Quick question and background. Son rides a valkyrie. We just went thru all 6 carbs and reinstalled... REAL pita to reinstall airbox runners onto top of carbs. We reinstalled and cranked up and have a low idle issues that we believe to be an air leak, further investigation tomorrow. Now for the question, one of his forum buddies we visited had a fuel "bag/cell" hanging from the ceiling with a hose and pinch clamp to run bike without the tank on... Great idea huh. Have any of you made one and if so, out of what with what??? Wanting to make one tomorrow that I will use also on RSV when finished. (torn apart now) Give me ideas... hose, check, clamp, check, bottle.... woops. I need a fuel resistant IV bag! Ideas anyone?:think: thanks for the help, James:biker:
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OK, so yesterday I plan to head out for a ride after church with a couple of buddies on my 98 RSTD. When I get to church I smell some gas but am unable to find any leaks. When I leave and we are heading over to fuel up I smell it again and now look down to see fuel pouring down the right side of the cases (also some on the left side but not as much). When I stop to check it out it quits when I shut the engine down. Never having seen this before I start it up and try and see what is up but can only see gas coming from what appears to be the crank case breather assembly. Of course this makes no sense so I head for the house. We stop to get something to eat and watch a little football, when I get back on the bike and head for the house I have no leak? Now I am beginning to think this must be a sticking float on one or more of the carbs, right? Need some advice first if there might be some other cause then also if I need to do a complete teardown on the carbs or will seafoam help this out? As always, thanks for the input.
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Just watched Motoring 2012 on TSN and they were talking about Ethanol fuel in carburated engines. Ethanol causes deterioration of rubber carb parts. Any ideas as to which gas stations sell regular gas with no ethanol in Canada?? Learned something new today!!
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Spare Fuel for long Trip
alvald83 posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Does anyone take spare fuel on a long trip? Im thinking about taking spare fuel on my cross country trip, since i am riding solo. Does anyone know a good source for containers? -
Here's an interesting Fox News report on the new E15 blend of fuel. It appeared a month ago, but now that we're into the new year it's even more prevalent. http://video.foxbusiness.com/v/2000862202001/
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