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Showing results for tags 'friction'.
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The Barnett clutch was installed this evening. Took about an hour since I also cleaned up the areas I normally can't get to. Also took 15 minutes to find my darn 1/4 ratchet (never did find it - one of the kids must have borrowed it and forgot to put it back - Grrrrr). As promised, here is the installation with pictures. Here is the Barnett clutch plate as received. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-rLB7KNp/0/M/P1000116-M.jpg These are the tools required. Ball end Allen wrenches, mechanics picks, and an in-lb torque wrench. Not shown is a 10mm socket/combo wrench for removing the Stebel horn (if installed - not sure if you need to remove a stock horn) and the stock spring holder ring. You will also need a pair of needle nose pliers. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-FQTRxKX/0/M/P1000118-M.jpg Put the bike on the side stand and put an oil pan under the clutch cover side. No need to drain the oil unless you smoked your clutch. Then an oil change would be needed. Put the transmission in neutral. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-JGw69SQ/0/M/P1000119-M.jpg Take off the horn and hang it from the rear foot board with a piece of coat hanger. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-4xXPJzH/0/M/P1000120-M.jpg Take the cover off the clutch. Pay attention to where the bolts go. There are two different length bolts. I suggest taking a piece of corrugated (cardboard), draw the cover shape including the oil fill for reference. Use a small screw driver to poke holes and insert the bolts in the appropriate location in the pattern. You may notice the gasket stayed intact on the engine. I reused it. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-j9rgXjB/0/M/P1000121-M.jpg Remove the 6 bolts holding the spring in place and remove the spring and pressure plate. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-v7v9BWC/0/M/P1000122-M.jpg Here are the parts removed. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Zck5Cvw/0/M/P1000123-M.jpg Note the notches in the friction plate edges and the two punch marks on the clutch cage. This is important when reinstalling. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-sFfdMgK/0/M/P1000124-M.jpg This is where the mechanics picks come in handy. Makes the removal of the clutch disks really easy. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-Gv4cfxF/0/M/P1000126-M.jpg When all is removed, it looks like this. http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-V3w5RwF/0/M/P1000127-M.jpg I had done the Freebird mod which removes the inner half friction disk and small bellville spring and replaces it with a full disk. This mod reduces the friction zone on the clutch handle. I wanted the additional friction zone so I am putting the half and half back in. Here are the pieces including the wire. You are supposed to use a new wire every time. However, I was really careful when removing it and am reusing my old wire (plus, I didn't think ahead of time to buy a new one). http://2000rsv.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Barnett-Clutch-Upgrade/i-7C5gF4Z/0/M/P1000128-M.jpg To be continued. RR -
I am going to replace my clutch. I know they are not that expensive, but do I have to replace the steel plates as well as the friction plates? Is Barnett much better? I am just planning to go with stock. Thanks, Fred
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I pulled apart an 85 1200 donor motor this weekend and found a different looking set of clutch friction plates in it. Anyone seen these before? The friction pads are smaller than a stock set. I don't really think these will be good in a modified motor. Gary http://i1007.photobucket.com/albums/af193/gdingy101/IMG_3129.jpg -
My '87 VR clutch is starting to slip when I apply too much throttle in top gear. I guess I'll have to replace the friction plates soon. What brand of plates do you recommend ? Jim O'D........ Australia:confused24:
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Just under 43K miles on 2007 RSV, clutch is starting to slip at high rpms. No trailer towing, mostly solo riding. Is it worth the upgrade or just go with OEM style? Is there a complete kit or do I have to order parts separately? Or do I just need new friction plates? What parts will I need? Never done a clutch before, so not sure what gets replace and what might get reused. Where is the best place to get clutch parts? THANKS -
Not too long ago I noticed the clutch was slipping. It wasn't too bad, it only happened when I did a high gear roll on going up a grade 2-up and pulling a Voyager Kit. Ordered the parts earlier this month, but never had a chance to tear into the bike until yesterday. Me and my 11 year old grandson did the job in a couple of hours. The internals were VERY clean, there were no surprises in the oil, and the steels all looked brand new. The friction plates were another matter. The friction material was worn VERY thin, but fortunately none of the plates were worn down to metal. Saw that happen on a '97 RSTD, and it was a mess..... Anyway we got her back together, and now I have plenty of clutch. -
wow, I now know what a burnt clutch looks like.. and its not a pretty sight.. If you recall I burnt out the clutch while on an advanced rider course the other weekend and ended up with so little clutch travel that it made riding the bike difficult trying to 'ride the clutch' in everyday slow maneuvers.. This was a PCW clutch mod I had installed last July, and probably have over 20,000 miles on it? (I did over 33,500 miles on the bike last summer alone, not bad for someone up in the great white north!) I pulled the clutch apart tonight and did an oil change at the same time as a precaution. The friction plates were smoothed out and the steel plates were BLACK!! with a tinge of blue here and there.. ouch.. no wonder!! In installed new friction and steel plates.. I didn't cross hatch sand the steel plates thinking that this would wear down the friction pads prematurely.. I dunno.. I have to go back tomorrow and whack smack dopey idiot at the parts counter for ordering the wrong Clutch Cover Gasket, which I paid extra for expedited delivery.. I reused the old, which is something you should never do! but you know how it is.. when you're geographically located exactly 2 weeks away from any source of Yamaha parts, you have to do what you have to do.. Perhaps Earl's parts will arrive sooner.. Regardless, someone tomorrow is gonna get an earful. However, with the new clutch installed, new oil in the bike, I have tons of clutch lever travel and a HUGE friction zone again! Better than that micro 1/4 inch play I had before. And the bike rides a lot smoother now, wow, impressive.. I'm guessing I did something to that clutch late last fall because as I was riding it since March this year, there was a weird shudder whenever in 5th on the highway.. now it's really GONE and the mirrors are glass smooth.. wow.Must have been the clutch shuddering.. And when I did the course it was all it could take and died.. odd.. Wondering if any of the several oils I tried might have contributed to it.. ? Anyway.. fun is fun as what it is.. I think the photo shows how black the steel disks are.. they start as bright brushed aluminum colour, but wow, from dark brown to black..
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At Don's MD I was going to install Skydoc's upgrade kit, which as you may know, includes new clutch springs and a full friction plate to replace the factory 1/2 plate. Earl was talking me thru the job so I know it is done right. He suggested that my clutch plates were very near the end of their life so I replaced all of the friction plates, but kept the steel plates as they were not burnt or scored. I have since noticed that there is a loud noise that wasn't there before. It is much like a low pitched wind howl. It is loud enough that it is bothersome. It is at its worse when I am just poking along in 3rd or 4th around 3000 rpm but is still noticable at 4000 and above. It doesn't seem anywhere as loud in 1st or 2nd, even at those rpms. I know these bikes like the higher revs, but with rev's come more noise and sometimes just humming along feels like the right thing to do in towns etc. Now just before I changed the clutch I also changed the oil to Shell Rotella 15/40, which makes it harder to determine which is the cause...the new clutch or the new oil??? Any ideas??
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I wanted to show what the Volusia's clutch plates wound up looking like when I took them out. I have two words: Crispy Smooth. The order of removal goes from first one out on the top left progressing right to the last one out (TM-1b) on the bottom right. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6107.jpg Also, ignore the shredded gasket material, that came out after the removal of the plates. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6109.jpg Closeup of 13 and 12. Some friction material, but not much. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6110.jpg 11 and 10, smooooooth. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6111.jpg 9 and 8, also very smooth http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6112.jpg 7 and 6. 7's not so bad Actually had quite a bit of Friction material left. Just cooked. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6113.jpg 6 (again) and 5. Five coulda been worse too. http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6114.jpg 4 and 3 http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v281/GAWildKat/Volusia%20Intruder/Burnt%20Clutch/IMG_6115.jpg And finally, 2 and TM-1b. So those are my deep fried, oil battered plates. Whatcha think? Now 5th gear actually feels like a 5th gear with acceleration all its own and not just a weaker version of 4th gear...if that makes any sense to y'all.
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From what I’ve read on clutch and clutch slippage has left me with a couple questions. I'd like to do the spring upgrade but am now thinking of doing the plates as well, so-o-o... 1) Where and what do I ask for when ordering/upgrading my clutch springs? I believe I will also need a new gasket... anything else? Torque values? 2) I understand the friction thing but doesn’t switching from a half plate to a full plate decrease the pounds per square inch on the contact surface by distributing the pressure over a larger surface area?? Pressure vrs friction??? What are the advantages or disadvantages of the larger plates? Perhaps I'm just over thinking this?
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Hi, My clutch friction point is way out at the end of the lever travel. I'd like to bring it in a bit as my hand is only just big enough. Do I have any adjustment options, or is it time for new friction plates plain and simple? BTW, the clutch does not slip. For example, yesterday I was at a light on an incline and, when it went green, I found I had only downshifted as far as 2nd. The old gal (~60k miles) groaned and shuddered a bit, but pulled away up the incline in 2nd no probs. Thanks, Brian H.
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01 RSV clutch upgrade issue. So. I followed the instructions (or so I thought, I guess) replaced the half friction disc with the full one, removed the retaining wire and the spring/washer deeley, put it all back together as instructed (lining up all of the 'notches' in the friction discs, etc). Torqued the outer ring with the 6 bolts to the required 70 in-lb, re-installed gasket and cover and now my clutch lever is so stiff I can't even move it with both hands. Mind you, I tried with one hand and it didn't budge - I didn't squeeze much harder than that because I didn't want to break anything. What the crap. Any suggestions on what to check or what went wrong? I am baffled and a little honked. -
hi guys, after the problems I've had with my clutch (twice this year I burnt it out during Advanced Rider courses), I've decided to go back to stock configuration and dropping the PCW mod I had in it since last year. I have a Barnett Spring kit in it now, but with still the full disc stack up as per the PCW mod only because I could not find my original half discs. So I ordered new ones.. But I can't seem to figure out how this goes back together. Once I pull off each plate (friction and steel) its the set up for the half plates I'm not seeing properly in the diagrams for some reason.. I believe I have all the correct parts now.. and some spares.. I have these parts 26H-1632101 (half size friction plate) 26H-16384-00 (small steel disc) 1Fk-16383-00 (small steel spring plate..) and the small spring clip, 26h-16385-00 From what I can see in the parts diagram, the flat plate goes in first then the spring plate, the friction plate fits OVER these (as it is larger in circumference) and the plates get held in by the spring clip. But which way does the spring plate go in? does the larger edge go against the back of the basket or towards the front? I'm not sure on this one or if it makes a difference.. Luckily, i ended up with three extra clutch cover gaskets =) Thanks in advance! ADDENDUM: Oops, MY BAD, it actually says on the spring plate OUT SIDE, to show which side of the plate should face the clutch cover.. silly me.. Cheers
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I completed installing the PCW clutch upgrade kit last night and it went together very easily as others have stated. The clutch appears to be working and there is absolutely no slipping. However, I have a question about the friction zone. With the original spring it seemed that the clutch started grabbing when the lever was about 1/2 way out and there was 3/4 of an inch or so of friction zone. With the upgrade it seems that the friction zone is only about the last 1/4 inch of lever travel before the lever is free. It makes me wonder if the clutch is fully engaging. I still have about 1/4 inch of free travel in the lever after fully engaged. Is this consistent with other's experience? Dennis
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Hi, My blue bike's (60,000 miles) clutch friction point is noticeably closer to the bar than my red bike's (13.000 miles). Both are '84 xvz12's btw. I am trying to make up my mind whether something is deteriorating or if it is just the nature of the beast. All seems to work fine but the friction point on the blue bike is quite close to the bar and when released the lever does not fully return to the all the way out position leaving a big dead zone where the lever movement has no tension on it at all. The friction point is quite useable and comfy for my hand, but now I have two bikes I can't help but notice differences. Perhaps its just me being anal or perhaps I have some work to do. I am going to flush the fluid with fresh but meanwhile, these questions occur to me: As the clutch friction surfaces wear, am I correct to assume that the friction point comes closer to the bar? I read about weak clutch springs on these bikes, does this scenario fit the description for that? How big a job is it to supplement clutch springs as some describe doing on these old gals? Other suggestions ? Thanks, Brian H.
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I couldn't find anything in search, hoping someone here could help.. I was out today on a MAC training day where you really have to ride the clutch and throttle to toss the big girl around the pylon course and wow, what a work out, but got the boards scraped and had a blast in the snow, hail and rain.. ya gotta love the weather out here.. By the end of the day, my friction zone is all but gone except at the very end of the level release.. and it's VERY narrow. Not hard to ride the bike but man, I started with a nice large friction zone and now it's tiny.. Is there an adjustment or something to do in order to get some of it back? I doubt I thinned out my HD clutch today to make up that difference.. ?
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Hi guys, its been determined that I had most likely 'burnt out' my clutch this past weekend on the advanced rider's course, hence why my clutch travel on the lever is sooo minute, the friction plates have thinned out so much, that's all she wrote.. So I have to replace the friction plates and to hedge against the possibilities of further troubles, I'll be changing the steel plates as well.. and do an oil change.. I probably have 20,000 miles on the PCW kit since I installed it.. and I ride my bike like I stole it.. (in some ways I did I don't know if there any other aftermarket friction plates available for our bike or not, but I also can't find my info as to how many of each plates the clutch takes as I did the PCW mod of removing the half disc etc.. ?? Aftermarket or OEM plates.. Any help or advice would be appreciated..
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After looking at this article ... http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=10518 and viewing this picture... [ATTACH]42497[/ATTACH] My friction plates are not lined up like that. I did have a new clutch basket installed about 4 years ago. maybe the mechanic messed it up? I noticed that on mine that are scattered all over the place ,there are some plates with one notch and some with two notches. any input on this guys? Thanks, Jeff
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2006 Midnight Venture (no warranty) Hi guys, I wonder if someone could shed some light on this for me.. I hadn't realized till recently that my Venture had a hydraulic clutch vs cable like on my VStar.. On the VStar I can adjust where the friction zone is within the clutch lever application so that it's comfortable on my hand, the zone itself is narrow, meaning how much travel of the lever keeps you in the friction zone of the clutch.. For people doing a lot of slow speed manouvering on such a large bike, you'll understand where I'm going with this.. On the Venture I find my friction zone is extremely narrow and all the way to the release point of the clutch lever.. it take a very deft hand to stay within the zone smoothly.. On the VStar, the zone was more so into the middle than towards the full release point.. I'm wondering if my clutch is actually full engaged when I release the lever, because as soon as I pull it in I'm immediately in the friction zone.. If this can be adjusted, how so.. If it can't be adjusted, is mine more or less normal? I'm teaching motorcycle safety and though students do the course on 125 Maurauders, we're somewhat expected to be able to do the excercise courses on our own bikes.. When you see a RoadKing or a GoldWing able to do it, it makes me wonder how come my Venture can't do it (oh I know there are a lot of reasons apart from the rider's abilities lol) but the one thing I noticed was the clutch's friction zone wasn't quite what I was used to on other bikes.. Any thoughts or comments?
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Good afternoon. I am in a frenzy. This question is about my 88 VR. I just did the Barnett upgrade of my clutch and it went so smoothly I was figuring I did something wrong. Well apparently something is wrong cause now I can't pull the clutch lever. I followed the steps from HDHTR in the tech guide to the letter and even took the old plates apart one by one and laid them off to the side in the order I took them out. After removing the boss wire and taking out the last friction plate and steel plate I inspected the basket for burrs and it was in good shape so I began reassembly. Put in the first friction plate, the 16321, and then the first steel plate and then installed the boss wire, and proceeded to install the plate in alternating order, friction, steel, friction, until I was out of new friction plates and all the steel plates had been used up too coating each plate in oil as I went. After installing the Barnett conversion and torqueing the bolts to 8 ft lbs I tried to pull in the clutch lever and I can not pull it in. There is space between the Barnett and the last friction plate I installed and I can move the plates in and out by hand. When I torqued the bolts I had to hold the Barnett to keep it from spinning. It acts as if teh clutch is disengaged but the lever isn't pull in. So I put it all back together and jacked it up with my HF jack and started the motor and put it into gear and there was nothing, like I said as if the clutch lever was pulled in. The reason I did this conversion is that when I went for a ride weekend before last the clutch started slipping in the upper gears so I wanted to get it replaced before it got too bad. I also might add that I replaced all of the bleeder valves with speed bleeders and purged all of the lines. I thought maybe the clutch has an air blockage causing the slave cylinder to be activeated so I took the speed bleeder completely out hoping it would relieve the pressure but that didn't work either. So now I am looking for any and all help I can get. Do I need to replace the clutch slave cylinder now and if so I haven't been able to find the procedure for doing that in my seaches. Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated as I really don't want to have to take it to the stealer to find the problem.
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Well i went and done it. I pulled the clutch cover and removed seven friction plates. It appears that the last plate and disc are held in by some sort of retaining ring does anyone know how to remove them. Also i thought i was paying closer attention but i noticed one friction plate has a single square mark instead of the two circular notches like the rest. If any one knows where its supossed to be located this would be helpful. Any help would be great as i only want to pull it once and do it right the first time.
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During my recent treck to the Southeast, I was noticing my clutch slipping is high gears. I was pulling a trailer and riding some good twisties, so the clutch was getting a work out. Decided to change out the clutch friction plates and spring. Just tore it apart and inspected everything. The friction plates are all in spec (0.114 to 0.118 inch), but several of the middle steels were blued (apparently by heat). The steels are all still flat and appear to be in good shape, although mis-colored. Couple of questions: 1) Any difficulty in reusing the blued steels? 2) Will the selection of oil used cause/contribute to this difficulty? I have been running Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic (it does not have the 'Energy Conserving' label). Thanks for your help. RR
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My bike has 66,000 miles on it and recently I noticed that it wasn't engaging until the lever was almost all the way out. It never did slip. I ordered new friction disks and almost as an after thought bought a PWC heavy duty spring from somebody on the forum. When I took things apart this morning I checked the thickness of the old friction plates and the new ones. There wasn't much difference between them ( about the middle of the tolerance range .118). I put the old disks back in with the PWC spring. Now it engages close to the handlebar.
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Am changing my oil brand from Amsoil to Mobil 1. Was at Wally's and noticed several different caps and I seem to remember that the gold cap is the one with friction modifiers. Silver cap does not. Is that correct? DJ :confused24:
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Does anyone have a source for new or oem replacement rotors, that don't cost as much as some of these bikes sell for? Tired of the cracked, warped, mostly marginal thickness, and unsafe stuff on Ebay or other sources that sell used rotors. They are inexpensive but most sellers (my experience) overlook the real condition of the part. Any experiences with the EBC Pro lites on these bikes, or input on any other available replacements? The EBC's are low carbon, less friction according to sites that review them. They are also lower friction , which might be worth looking into for you RSV riders with touchy rear brakes, just a thought. Fronts are good for now, but the rear I think got bent, maybe when a tire was mounted somewhere along the way. I will be removing my rotors from now on before dropping wheels and tires off for mounting. Would be interested to hear how others are managing this issue with these older bikes. Thanks
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