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Showing results for tags 'floats'.
Found 15 results
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i made a short video when i was setting and checking the float levels on a set of 28mm carbs and wrote of how i did it for some of the guys on delphi forum and thought i would post it here too.there's a way i do it and it has worked out good on the last several sets im have fixed for others and redid mine while i had them off, all you have to do is when you have the carbs torn down, put all the float and needle assembly together, turn them upside-down so the float is up, jiggle the carbs so the floatsts bounce around a little so they are seated in place and not binding. while you still holding them upside-down, hold them right in front of you and look to see if both floats are level with each other, several i have done has been uneven, if they are uneven, take two small pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold the arm near the middle where the needle valve is and use the other pair to bend easlily the arm on the far float to equal level, make sure to hold needle valve off the seat so it not down and possillely mess it up or take it out and bend it and put back in. after you are sure they are pretty level across the 2 floats then make sure the needle valve is set down on seat and measure from the edge of bow to the top of the floats and it should be between 8 to 9 mm,(i try to get mine nearer to 9mm). i usually check it on both sides of the set of floats just to be sure i've got them level as i can. checking them out the way the book says to do it is way too hard fro me to do. one of the guys near me wants to take his down and check them out on his 98 so i may try to do a video of it as there will be 2 of us.i'll let y'all know when we do it. try this link, let me know if it works. -
I have a gas leak coming out of the drain tube front left next to radiator. Leak only occurs when bike is running. It is an 05 RSV. I have taken the quad carbs completely off, cleaned all the floats and needles....Put it all back together and was going for a ride but again the leak......Any thoughts????
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I don't know what else to do. My 98 Royal Star keeps pissing gas out of the overflow tubes. I cleaned it, put new jets, new needle valves/seats, and it still pissed gas. I finally got so frustrated that I took it to a local mechanic and he said the floats were way off, charged me $280 and I thought that I was good to go. NOPE!!! I live three and a half miles from his shop. I don't own a trailer and my buddy that does was not available so I rigged a 1L jerry can up thinking that would catch enough gas for 3 1/2 miles. NOPE!! I had to dump the can three times, so that is 1L of fresh out of the pump that day gas per mile! The mechanic has had it for a week and he called me yesterday and said that they had the carb bank on the test bench and hit it with a heat gun and the gas was boiling at 104 degrees, making the floats drop, and pissing gas again. He does not have any solutions. I have no idea where to go from here other than just put the bike up for sale. I WILL loose my ass if I sell this bike not running. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!
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hello v7goose write up on carb floats only covers the measurment and not how to adj the float its self i had my carbs off but do not see how to adj the floats when i cruse at 60 the bikes acks like it needs gas but when i give it gas it will run fine as lone as i am acellerating i was told it maybe carbs flooding and floats need adj any help or what to do new fuel filter all lines clear kevin 1999 rsv
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My venture started leaking fuel from the left rear carb, the other day. the shops is telling me I need to replace, all the guts, in all four? neddles, floats? do they have to be replaced? do they wear out this fast? or can they just be cleaned?
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I have a 08 venture. the cruise workes but when going down hill then an the way up it will lose about 5 mph then pick it back up to set speed. Would the cables be out of adj? I did adj the carb floats so it is possable I didn't get the cables just right! Thanks for input! Ps. the floats were way off from the book. Milage went fron 34 to 42. Don't put that in stone. I need to do some more checking on that part.
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I was reading a thread on hear about float's being set to high on venture's from the factory, making them run rich. So if I put on Bub's pipes it will still be ok. But it didn't say if you lower the floats to factory specks. if the Bubs are still still OK with out rejeting??? Or do you need to rejet? 2008 venture. Thank's for the info!
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I don't make it to the rally in Harrison, AR. I've read and read the articles about adjusting the float levels in several posts so I finally convinced myself I should at the very least check them. So I now have RSV parts strung all over two garages. I hope I remember where all them little parts go. I'm mostly just kidding but I did take them apart and adjust the level and pretty much followed Goose's write up about it. I do wish he would correct the picture so that it shows the proper way of checking the floats. Anyway mine were not to bad I guess,two of the floats were .22 and the other two were .28. I now have them adjusted to what I think is .34 if I am measuring them right. I do not have the bike back together but I have a lot of confidence it will be fine. The thing I'm really looking forward to is the 10 percent increase in gas mileage that Goose promised. BOO
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This post describes the proper way to set the carb floats on a 2nd Gen, as well as pointing out the errors in the factory shop manual. If you follow the manual as written, you CANNOT properly set the floats. ============================================================================================================ Today I decided to pull the carbs on my 05 RSV and check the float levels. My plugs looked perfect before I touched anything, so that doesn't sound like it was running rich. However, I ran down to Galveston and back yesterday (650 miles) and the chrome tips of my pipes collected a lot more black soot than I like. Even though my gas mileage is still running right where it always has (averaging 36 - 38), I decided to check out the float levels before my next big trip. I first tried the tube method to check the level while they are on the bike, but it just didn't seem to be working right or even close to an accurate way to measure them. So I bit the bullet and tore into it - Seems like a BIG job to pull that danged carb assembly out! The good news is, it really isn't that hard, just seems like it. Se the next post for tips on getting the carbs in and out. I was quite surprised to find that although all four carbs had the floats set very close to each other, they were WAY off the spec. Where the manual calls for .32 - .36", mine were all at either .133 or .285 (depending on how they were measured). That means the float level was set VERY high. And now to discuss the right way to measure the float height. The drawing in the shop manual clearly shows a carb being held upside down with the float bowl gasket surface level and the float height being measured with a caliper held vertical. Seems straight forward, no? But it is very wrong! Done that way, mine measured .133" instead of .34". The instructions even clearly state to "hold the carburetor upside down." But then the next thing is this NOTE: "The float arm should rest on the needle valve without depressing it." And that comment is the only thing correct about this procedure in the shop manual! Now having the float arm not depress the needle valve is a difficult thing to do with the carburetor upside down - in fact, it is virtually impossible; the weight of the float fully compresses the spring loaded plunger in the needle valve. When you lay the whole carb assembly flat on the bench, the carbs are already inclined quite a bit, but even then the weight of the float is still too much for the needle valve spring: Sooooo, I propped one end of the carburetor assembly on a short 2x4 so that the face of the float bowl was almost vertical. When you slowly raise the end of the assembly high enough you can see the float suddenly pop up from the spring pressure of the needle valve. Here is a picture of the carb assembly propped up and one of measuring the float height in that position: CAUTION: The floats have different shaped sides, and they are different heights too! The wide side of the float measures .04" higher than the other side. This means that you need to be careful to measure the SAME side of the float on all four carbs, and the wide side is the best one to use (note that the picture above is wrong, in that it shows me measuring the thin side of the float!). The most difficult part of the measurement is making sure the tool you use is held truly straight and perpendicular to the carb base, since any leaning at all will significantly change the measurement. On two of the carbs, you will find the choke rod or one of the carb mounting brackets in the way, so turn the caliper sideways a bit to clear the obstruction while still being held straight out from the carb base. I used this position to set all four floats at the mid point of the spec - .34" Bike ran great when I got it all back together, and the sync on the carbs was not changed by the procedure. I only put about 30 miles on it tonight, so I may not be able to report on the effect to my MPG calculation until I get on the road to Ontario next week. But I'll let y'all know how it changes, if at all. Goose UPDATE: OK everyone, the results are in, and this relatively straight forward maintenance procedure produced AT LEAST a 10% improvement in my fuel mileage! My carbs were in perfect sync before I adjusted the floats, and I made NO other changes. Although I have not had the time to check my fuel mileage under all conditions yet, I HAVE done about 2,000 miles of high speed, fully loaded, two-up riding. Under conditions that that have always resulted in about 32 MPG (80+ MPH and loaded, all day long), I now get 35-36 MPG. When running at an indicated 84 MPH, I can now get a full 200 miles out of a tank - never could get that far at those speeds before. And inside the chrome tips on my pipes look better now too - more brown than black. I expect it to get even better after I set the mixture screws soon.
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Need some help. I have a 07 venture that leaks gas out of a tube that is on the left side by the kickstand. It does not do it all the time ,but when it does it leaves about a quarter size mark. I have had the floats change at the dealership, but it still does it. They told me that might just be a characteristic of the bike. What do you guys think Any suggestions or comment would be gratefull
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Hey All, over at a couple Harley Buds and we looked on the ground and the rear shock was leaking oil (and yes I was harrased, about how metrics leak oil). The rear end floats up and down like a bober when two up, especially over bumps. Question: Is the standard Rear Shock Rebuildable??? Thanks for your help, Later-
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Just a thanks to V7Goose for my own personal maintenance day. Went to house at about 9 am on Saturday and commenced to tearing down my 05 RSTD. Got the carbs off, and had to adjust all 4 of the floats. Put in new plugs, changed out all of the coolant, synced the carbs and adjusted the mixture screws. A long hot afternoon, but a success. Thanks again.
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Most of my problems with my bike have been carb related. As in float problems. When I got the bike it had two bad floats that had sank. I found after many inquiries that NEW or even aftermarket floats were no longer available. So I ended up buying a used carbs off eBay and stripping out the floats then dried them for several days and gave them a coat of airplane dope. A recommended and workable fix but it does add some weight to the float causing serious adjustments to get the fuel bowl level close to specs. So when I finished my winter projects I swapped out the treated floats for another used set hoping for the best. It was fine for a couple of weeks until one of those sank on me to. Geesh! So it was back to the drawing board and I turned to Squeeze, our friend and member here on the site. Squeeze is the V-Max guy and he had a set of carbs on his bench from a VR. He stated he couldn't see the difference between the floats and the carbs were very similar body wise. Squeeze gave me a part # for a float for an '85 V-Max. I then got ahold of Rick at Buckeye Performance and he only had one in stocks so I bit the bullet and ordered a set of four. They arrived yesterday and they are an exact match for the VR 1st gen floats. Dead on! So maybe this will help someone in the future. The Yamaha part # 1FK-14985-00-00 Float Here are a few pics of the old and new side by side. Thanks to Squeeze and Rick at Buckeye for all your help in figuring out a solution. Mike -
Is there any difference between the carbs from an 83 and an 84? I've been wanting to rebuild my carbs on my 84 to try and get my mileage back into the high 30's and low 40's. Right now it's in the low to mid 30's. I have a set of carbs from an 83 that I started pulling apart the other day. They were pretty nasty looking inside the bowls. The floats looked pretty good and the diaphrams have holes in them. I'm gonna weight the floats in a few minutes to see how close they are to each other. I have a scale that goes 3 or 4 decimal places that should work good.
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OK folks...I need some input here. I've seen several discussions on setting the float levels. I'm NOT much good when it comes to carbs. I can sync them and etc. but am always nervous about getting inside them. So yesterday, in my unending search to figure out my gas mileage problem, I decided to pull the carbs and check the float levels and etc. Several of you, including Cougar, Pegscraper and some others have done this and have reported that it's not a big job. WHATEVER...it took me about 10 hours to pull the carbs, set the floats and get it all back together. To make it worse, I'm now thinking that I may have done it wrong and need to pull them off again. The manual says that you set the floats at about .32 with the floats resting on but not compressing the needle valve. So, does that mean that with the carbs upside down that you lift the floats with your finger so that the tang is touching the needle and that is when you measure? Unfortunately, I set them with the carbs upside down and the floats at rest, not me lifting on them. I'm attaching a picture. You will see in the picture that the near side is laying way up in the housing. The far side I have adjusted and it is at about .32 with it just sitting there. I think I did it wrong but please tell me for sure. Here's the deal. Yesterday morning I check all four cylinders using my Colortune. At most all RPMS I had the nice Bunsen blue color as I should but had intermittent flashes of yellow. According to the color tune booklet, that is a sign of floats set too high. That is why I pulled them off. Finally got it all back together last night about 9:00 and fired it up. Now I have a definite backfire, pop, miss or something from the right side. Now I have not synced them yet and will do so but I really don't see where adjusting the floats would through the sync off. So.......HELP.
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