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Showing results for tags 'float'.
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i made a short video when i was setting and checking the float levels on a set of 28mm carbs and wrote of how i did it for some of the guys on delphi forum and thought i would post it here too.there's a way i do it and it has worked out good on the last several sets im have fixed for others and redid mine while i had them off, all you have to do is when you have the carbs torn down, put all the float and needle assembly together, turn them upside-down so the float is up, jiggle the carbs so the floatsts bounce around a little so they are seated in place and not binding. while you still holding them upside-down, hold them right in front of you and look to see if both floats are level with each other, several i have done has been uneven, if they are uneven, take two small pairs of needle-nose pliers, hold the arm near the middle where the needle valve is and use the other pair to bend easlily the arm on the far float to equal level, make sure to hold needle valve off the seat so it not down and possillely mess it up or take it out and bend it and put back in. after you are sure they are pretty level across the 2 floats then make sure the needle valve is set down on seat and measure from the edge of bow to the top of the floats and it should be between 8 to 9 mm,(i try to get mine nearer to 9mm). i usually check it on both sides of the set of floats just to be sure i've got them level as i can. checking them out the way the book says to do it is way too hard fro me to do. one of the guys near me wants to take his down and check them out on his 98 so i may try to do a video of it as there will be 2 of us.i'll let y'all know when we do it. try this link, let me know if it works. -
I stumbled upon what I think is wrong with my bike.. I took the airbox off my 85VR brownie and my left rear carb slider isn't moving like the rest. It is motionless. I checked the diaphragm out. Does this mean my float is stuck? -
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I've posted about this before, and there is even a tech article I wrote under Engine and Drivetrain on how to do it. But I continue to be amazed by how screwed up and WAY OFF the factory settings every RSV seems to be! So I just gotta keep proselytizing about it . . . At Don's maintenance day I just reset the floats on three more RSVs, and out of the 12 carbs, only ONE (one carb, not one bike) was even remotely close to the factory spec! And that was the first carb from ANY of the RSVs I have done that wasn't set unbelievably high. Too-high float levels cause rich mixtures and excessive fuel use at speed. Up to now I have only been able to report on the 10% improvement in fuel economy I got from my own bike by properly setting the fuel level. Others for whom I have done the work all said it seemed better, but they didn't go to the trouble of having detailed before and after comparisons. Well, now I have another. Four of us on RSVs rode together from Texas up to Don's in Ohio, about 1,250 miles. I paid attention to how much gas each of us took at each gas stop. Since we were all riding in the same conditions and the same speeds on the same roads, it was an ideal way to get some side-by-side comparisons. I generally took less gas at every stop, and Ponch took the most - every time. And the difference was quite significant. I never tried to calculate the MPG for each bike, but I know he was buying a lot more gas over and over again for 1,200 miles. So that is the "before" state. On Friday morning while I had nothing else to do, Ponch and I pulled his carbs and reset the float levels to the specs from the Yamaha shop manual. The only other change we did was to put in new plugs while we had things apart. To be completely open here, there was some evidence that Ponch's RF plug was not fireing as well as the others. After maintenance day, Ponch and I rode together on the way back to Texas. This was another fantastic oportunity for us to get a real life side-by-side comparison of two RSVs under identical conditions for many, many tanks of gas, and now with Ponch's bike having the floats properly set. Guess what? Ponch and I took virtually the exact same gas at every single gas stop, no matter if we had been doing 50 in the twisties or 80 on the superslab. That is a HUGE change from what he was getting on the ride up just two days before. Actually, I tell a little bit of a lie - while we weren't trying to compare exact fill levels by looking inside the tanks, Ponch generally took just a tad less than I did at most stops - probably just 0.1 gallons on a 5 gallon fill. So Ponch's bike went from being the worst of four in MPG (by a long shot), to actually being the best. We have no way of being certain how much credit the new plugs get for this, but I'm betting the float levels were the biggest piece. OK, I'll stop for now. But if you haven't had the float levels checked on your RSV, your really should think about it. Even if it is brand new. By all means, do not assume the factory got them even close to the right level!! Ride safe, Goose -
I want to check the float level on my 89, and I've read the directions and other posts. If you've done this, how have you connected the tubing to the carb. drain screw so that it doesn't leak? I read where Yammie has a special tool for this, but I saw that it looks like Dingy had something just pushed into the hole that he was able to connect a hose to. What's worked for you? Frank D.
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First a little history: I've had my 84 Venture Std for about 1 yr, but before that she sat idle for quite some time. I know she has some rust in the tank, but I'm not yet ready to pull & treat the inside (I'm relying on the filter for now). Over the past year, I've disassembled/cleaned the petcock and replaced the fuel filter (which was suprisingly clean). I've also had the carbs off and cleaned the bowls, jets, etc. She'd been running just fine until... Now on with the current situation: My buddy & I recently went on a 1400 mile trip to Michigan's UP:biker:, and I put a bit of Seafoam in the tank at each fillup (per some recommendations here). On the way back I began to notice that the bike had more oil than when I last checked . I babied it, got home, drained the oil and it smelled like gas. It appears that 2 of the carb float levels are too high, 1 carb on each side. The filter still looks good, so I'm theorizing that some "gunk" has been loosened up from inside the fuel pump and migrated to the float needles/seats. Perhaps after shutdown, the excess fuel is draining thru the carbs and down into the oil. Has anyone disassembled their 1st Gen fuel pump, cleaned it, and managed to get it back together ? Anyone ever added another fuel filter, between the pump and the carbs? Any ideas on cleaning the mesh screen filters at the needle/seat assembly? Honestly, I'm thinking about just changing the oil, adding a whole can of Seafoam to the next tank of gas and seeing if that breaks up the debris that might be stuck in the needle/seat/screens. Any thoughts? Thanks all! BTW, M-22 west of Traverse City & M-58 west of M-77 are great roads! But stay on the roads...the sabertooth black flies of the shore & beaches along Lake Superior are really something else . -
hello v7goose write up on carb floats only covers the measurment and not how to adj the float its self i had my carbs off but do not see how to adj the floats when i cruse at 60 the bikes acks like it needs gas but when i give it gas it will run fine as lone as i am acellerating i was told it maybe carbs flooding and floats need adj any help or what to do new fuel filter all lines clear kevin 1999 rsv
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Need advice to repair or a replacement source for the 'lead switch assembly' in the rear brake reservoir. First time working on a brake issue on this bike so I'll elaborate as best as can with what I've found so far. Inside the reservoir, this assembly has a hollow plastic post with a C clip stopper on the top. The C clip prevents the float from slipping off the post. The float moves freely and stays at the top when fluid is topped up. It appears this float has a magnet attached to the inside circumference of itself that should keep the relay inside the post operated (N/C) for continuity back to the CM. ( I compared this with the front reservoir which works properly. Measured 0 ohm short) With the assembly removed and a meter across the two leads, the float in place and tapping the post with finger a few dozen times, the meter shows intermittent to no continuity. Likely corroded or dirty relay contacts? Is it possible to remove the relay from inside the post without destroying the two wires? I got the rubber/grout collar off but couldn't get the relay loose to pull it out. Could only find this OEM assembly part on-line as discontinued. Everything is reassembled and mechanically works at this point, but the two leads towards the CM are temporarily bridged to keep warning light extinguished. Any help would be appreciated, thanks in advance. (what a better way to spend half of the long week-end eh) -
I have been reading several threads on exhaust poping on deceleration. I have had the problem since I bought the bike over two years ago. It seems to have gotten worse over the last few months, so I think I've decided to try to fix it once and for all. I have already run a can of Seafoam through the carbs over the last 2 tanks of gas. This has usually helped but never eliminated all the poping. This time it didn't seem to do much at all. I have checked for exhaust leaks and found none. I have done a carb sync with no change. My next step based on my reading is to clean/adjust the Pilot Jets. I have found several threads explaining in detail the proceedure. I am confident I can do the job except for one thing. I have a 96 RSTD and the carbs are different from the ones discribed for newer Ventures and RSTDs. The adjustment doen't look like it's accessable from the outside of the float bowl. I don't see anywhere there is a "brass cap" to remove to gain access for the adjustment. In the thread it says I should find it next to or near the float drain. I don't seem to see anything. At the YamahaPartsHouse.com site there is a parts breakdown that shows the difference when you look at a 96 compared to an 07 carb. The carbs on the 96 through 2000 look to be the same. Can someone help me with the proceedure and or location of the access. -
I have opened up my float bowls on my 96 RSTD to clean the pilot jets. I figured that I should check the float levels while I was in there. Unfortunatly the older 2nd gens have different carbs than what V7Goose has in the tech section. I have downloaded the manual and I can't seem to find a measurment. Any help would be appreciated.
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Friends Bought an 84 700 ltd Kaw. Nice bike good size "town bike". It would not start after stopping by for a visit. Ending up taking him home after giving up on jumping it off going down the drive way. well, decide to give a once over and see one exhaust port alot hotter then the others and say let me check the carbs later. Open the carbs and they are clean as can be. but when I flip them over to look at the float level before dissassembly realize one float is upside down. Call it a night and go home and this morning it pops in my head 3 were upside down and one right. Explains why it ran so long without the tank on. Any one every find stuff like this in their lives? But other question is when attemting to jump it off going down the drive way and popping the clutch it just dragged to a halt. So I got on for the next little hill and popped when in 2nd then all the way to 5th gear and it just drug to a halt with a catch and motor turning at the very end. I have not rode it and he is a little new to this and Im not sure how the clutch is. It is a shaft drive bike and all feels good. Anyone ever heard of this dragging to a halt? and Im not talking about the rear tire but some in the bike. Also after siitng a few minutes it fires right up. Never was hydro locked just flooded with a weak battery. Thanks all
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Hello, I disassembled and cleaned out the carbs last weekend per the service manual. To make sure I didn't miss something, I've been going through the forum threads and articles. "mbrood" did a Carb Overhaul write-up in Tech section. In the 3rd to last paragraph he talks about the "The factory-set needle-valve screw..." The problem is, I have no idea what he's talking about. I'm concerned that I screwed in something too tight and ruined the needle valve now. Everything I unscrewed was TIGHT, so I put them back normal tight. I understand the needle valve and float relationship. He talks about a spring loaded screw for adjusting fuel flow. I don't understand what screw he's talking about. Can you guys help? Any references in the manual pages/pictures/ID numbers would really help. Regarding float level, it never dawned on me to check or adjust for this change. I understand the principle of putting fuel in the carb and letting the float rise up to shut off flow. I don't understand (1) why fuel level is so critical in the bowl (I thought it just had to have enough fuel in there to be able to maintain flow... assuming more was better) and (2) how to know where the float is at shutoff point when the bowl cover has to be on in order to fill the bowl. How do you get the float to remain stationary so you can check it's position? I read Squidley's recent thread on float level, and understand what he's measuring, but what has to happen at that level - start compressing the float needle valve spring? Or just making contact with the float needle valve? I'm (obviously) very new to carb work and appreciate your time and input. I'm anxious to learn though Many thanks in advance! -
The floats are too high on my 06 Venture. They measure .280" and I want to adjust to .340". I have searched thru a lot of threads, but have not found how to bend the little tab on the float for adjustment. Would someone please tell me how to do this without breaking something? I would also like to thank everyone involved with the super tech articles that have made life a lot easier for me. Great Job!
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Been playing with ingitech software. Went for ride around the block to test my latest load. At stop sign I thought to myself "awful rich" due to the gas I could smell, "wonder how my ignition advance changes caused it to be so rich?" (TPS ingitech is running great!) Headed home and pulled into garage, started to back into my park spot, and slipped in pool of gas-it was pouring out right in front or rear tire. Key off and finished parking. Pulled the overflow lines out where I could identify which one was leaking, and identified #4 when pump on. Turned pump off, and rapped on #4 diaphram cover. After big gush of fuel (primed pressure?), fuel stopped. Turned pump back on and still no leak. I may be alright now, possible piece of dirt was stopping float needle I got cleared when rapping on carb, but now leary to take for ride. Any other suggestions to ensure my float is ok now? BTW, heavy dose seafoam in this tank of gas. Been doing it about every 4th tank. Messed up my MPG check:bang head:
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Not to be confused with chicken parts..... Me and my riding has been nothing short of a trainwreck this summer. When the heat and humidity get beyond a point, I have to pretty much hang up the chaps because I just can't seem to breathe well enough to go; that or I just don't feel good enough to go. The flip side of that is that when the temp backs off a bit, it's usually because of rain and thunderstorms and MORE humidity. Anyway, that story is to set up this story! Because I haven't gotten out much and because I didn't get good results of my last 2 Battery Tenders, I didn't have anything keeping the charge up on the bikes. The GW has had an ongoing little issue with off idle performance and has been sitting basically all summer, since spring. The RSTD sat for about a month and a half, early in the year and had to be jumped to get it started. Recently, it sat for about a month for reasons I mentioned earlier and I knew that I was looking at another round of "fun with batteries." Well, the weather had been really crappy and I had done some late night research into battery maintainers. Based on what I found, I decided to buy a "Battery Minder", having the anti-sufation circuit in it. It will charge at I believe it's 1.3 amps up to 14.1V then revert to a float charge mode to keep the battery up; in this mode it will periodically hit the battery with specific hi frequency AC current to accomplish the anti-sulfation (the sulfation being what kills the batteries when they sit for long periods). I had been told that if a motorcycle battery (wet cell or other) goes dead, it's basically toast and has to be replaced. Now, the new Battery Minders I bought had a battery condition monitor included with one of them. They say to check the battery and if you get no indication the battery must be replaced. The RSTD had the absolute minimun indication, the GW battery had none! Well, not being one to just jump out there and drop $60 or $70 on another battery for the GW, I went ahead (in conflict with the instructions, I might add) and hooked it up and plugged it in. Ditto the one for the RSTD. The RSTD charged for about 24 hours and went to float mode. A day later, I felt good, the weather felt good, so I disconnected the Battery Minder and she fired right up and I went on my merry way. The Goldwing showed charge state for a full 2 1/2 days,(they recommend no more than 72 hours) then went into float mode just like the doctor ordered. What floors me is that the last time the battery on the GW went dead from sitting, like that, I had to replace it. That's why I was going to at least try to charge it up before I sprung for a new one! The battery is up full and with the BatteryMinder it should stay in top condition for a long long time (riding occasionally wouldn't hurt either, but that's a different discussion) Bottom line......I am sold on the BatteryMinder! I will not use another brand of maintainer again, unless the company itself just goes away; then whatever I get will have antisulfation or I won't have it....period. The proof is in the performance and the BatteryMinder has that in spades, IMHO! (and FWIW Northern Tool had them for ~$40)
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Ok a somewhat new development in my saga with the VR. Lately, (yesterday and today) the bike has idled high on initial decel and then slowly drops to around 900 RPM. The choke is off, and the linkage is free, all other throttle linkage is free moving as well. My theory is this could be carb float related as I am having hard start issues when the bike is warmed up and a strong smell of raw gas when the ignition is turned on. Otherwise performance is awesome with very crisp and smooth acceleration, plugs all look good and about 5 oz of Seafoam in every tank of gas. I am puzzled as carbs are not a strong point for me. Give me an ECU, injectors, O2 sensors, a MAF and a laptop and I can get most things purring. So gurus of the carb please enlightened me. I have done a rudimentary float level check, cleaned everything I could with the carbs on the bike and I believe the floats need adjusting but I am curous if this high idle could be related. Thanks -
We are having a Mini Carb Float adj / Carb Clean Clinic, Instructed by VRO`s own " Ponch" June 18th @ 0900 This will be held at Kregerdoodles house. 18222 Blinka Rd. Waller Texas 77484 You will need to bring your Carb cleaner, and hand tools, I do have tools, just not sure if I have enough to go around. Please RSVP as I may through some grub on the pit.. Hope to see ya`ll here, and want to thank Ponch for his time and expertise. Kreg -
For the past few years I have conducted a special pre-maintenance day clinic on the Friday before the official Maintenance Day at Don's in Ohio. If I remember correctly, last year we demonstrated how to do a valve adjustment on the 2nd gen, and the year before we did a carb float clinic. So for all those who are considering showing up a day early, I'm taking suggestions on what we should do for the Friday clinic this year. Goose
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If you remember me with the stuck float, I've got it unstuck and tested by activating the kill switch. No more fuel out the overflow. Got it all back together. Now the Starter won't turn over. Kill switch is on Run. Lights and horn works. The last time the starter turned over was when I was turning the engine over trying to unstick the float. Open to suggestions. -
The Night before leaving for Christmas vacation my 05 RSTD started leaking gas when I started it. Instead of panicking, I came here, and one quick search later figured out I had a stuck float. Back home now and drained / tapped the carbs and unstick it. Sea foam in the tank and carbs now. Not for the first time, I think " wow, that was $12 well spent"
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My 07 RSMV develped leak(s) about mid point on inner portion of carbs. slow drips off of the screws that hold the "bottom plate with brass piece" on. Pretty sure its a sticking float although I didn't notice any comming out overflow tubes? Just about have carbs out. Will also check the petcock hoses and fuel pump return hoses while I'm at it. At Freebirds MD while attempting a carb tune the bike wouldn't immediately come down off of the revs. We checked air passages and all were clear. we drained carbs and filled with carb cleaner. then 1/2 can of sea foam for 2 tanks. Ran good ever since. This bike basically sat for 3 years, it's an 07 with only 482 origional miles and the owner told me he had to tap the carbs one time because they stuck. Since then Ive put 5000 miles on it... Referenced: Freebirds Removing carbs 3/21/07 V7goose Float levels 6/27/08 ? Syncing carbs 8/18/06 Only thing I need is a sync tool after I get er done? Anyone close that has one? I know, I know. I could have taken to shop and got fixed free. But would it have really ended up being fixed???????? I think not......Plus it really isn't costing me any :mo money:just my time and I like working on her.
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Ok gentlemen, I'm back for more assistance. After trying every non-invasion thing I could to get my one carb from leaking, I had to tear it down. I pulled the float bowl cover off and the float looked good and moved (by hand easily) and seemed to engaged the needle well. I took the float out and the needle. Needle is brand new and looks it. I don't see any nicks or tears in the rubber. Soo.... what test or experiment can I do to test the bouancy of the float. I have two others left over from the rebuild that I could swap. Also..... does anyone know if there are different float needle sizes between the V-max and Venture. A V-max guy rebuilt my carbs. I'm not sure if there are but I suppose if the rubber tip was slighter smaller that could cause it to not seat properly. From a probably standpoint, what are the odds that the seat is bad? (I've posted a few other times with the leaking carb (from overflow). I'm pretty convinced that it's not debris. I've drained all the bowls several times, taking the fuel line off and turned the bike on and off so gas pumped into a glass jar. Gas in all circumstances looked clear. Thanks as always. Bill
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Not even sure where to start on this one... For some background, I ran the bike completely out of gas about 3 weeks ago... not far from home, so I was moving again in minutes. Anyways, since then I have been plagued with a sticking float or floats. We went to Marcarl's M&E a couple of weeks ago, and part-way thru the afternoon ride, I could smell gas (gasoline, that is...) and the engine was bogging. When the group stopped at a Tim Horton's for a break, there was certainly fuel coming through the overflow hoses to just in front of the rear wheel. I limped it home, saw that Carbs #1 and #4 were pouring fuel out of the overflows after I pulled the airbox off. I shut the fuel off at the tank and let the carbs empty themselves as I did a light drum solo on each carb body. I turned the fuel back on, hit the key, and after a few clicks, the fuel pump shut off with nothing out of the overflows. Good... problem solved. The next morning, I rode about 40-45 miles to Waterloo to pick up some friends on their bike, and escort them back to our place. My machine ran great. However, on the return trip to take them home, at least one float stuck again... same old issue : gas out the overflow tubes, and engine flooding. Got home. Emptied the carb bowls again, then let the pump suck straight Seafoam into the bowls. I let it sit overnight. Checked the next morning, and when I hit the key.. one click from the fuel pump.. no more. Good. That fixed it. Rode 2 days later... guess what ? Stuck float. Gas. Overflow. Expletives from me, disapproving eyerolls from wife. Redo Seafoam treatment. Let it sit 2 days. Fuel pump shuts off as it should. No fuel dripping anywhere. But, I ride for an hour. Smell gas. Engine bogging. Four letter words in abundance. Call Carl and reserve a space in his gorgeous shop last Monday. Bring my spare rack of carbs with me, figuring I can replace a bad float or floats, valves, etc. Remove carbs, finally get backs off of bowls - they are whistle clean inside. Valves certainly do not look damaged. Check the bouyancy of the floats.. all is well. Spray the seats of the valves liberally with carb cleaner, reassemble. All works as it should... the bowls fill, then the fuel pump shuts off. No overflowing fuel. Do little happy dance. Change plugs as the old ones have seen a lot of Seafoam and excess fuel. Seems to be running the way it should. Go for a ride tonight - and I don't even have to tell you to guess... I smell gas as I slow to a stop about 30 miles into my ride. Arrrrgh... One of Carl's (1 Gen's answer to Yoda) thoughts on Monday was that it could be the fuel supply line from the pump gradually disintegrating.. allowing little pieces of former hose to clog the float valves. It certainly could be... but why always carbs #1 and #4 ? The are diagonally opposite each other. I should be able to replace the fuel line tomorrow.. that is an easy thing to try and not expensive. However, before I run completely out of curse words, anyone else have any other thoughts if this repeats itself again ? -
I have gas leaking from hose near ground under seat but only when bike sits in hot sun? I know the standard answer is stuck float but I put bike in shade or garage and no leak?? Any ideas?
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Getting ready to tear into my 88Vr to do carbs, valve adjust etc. OringsUSA.com sells most any type/size of O-ring cheap $0.50 for quality viton vs $6 each from dealer. Based on Yammy part number the Manifold to head O-rings are 45mm, not sure of thickness. Anybody ever gotten these from other sources than Yammy. What do you guys use to set float levels. I'm thinking you need to have a replacement bowl plug with a nipple threaded in to accept some clear tubing. This is the best forum ever to answer these cheap bastard (which I am) questions. -
Just curious if anybody knows for sure if this kit for the VMax will work on our MKI's and or MKII's. I know somewhere somebody said they might except for an o-ring or two. NEW YAMAHA V-MAX V MAX VMX12 KEYSTER CARB KIT 1985 - 2005 Kit K-923YK One Kit fixes one carb, bid price is for one kit Kit includes: includes float gasket; slide needle; float needle and seat; #90 intermediate and #37.5 slow jet; air screw; misc packing and gaskets and "O" rings as shown http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-V-MAX-VMAX-VMX12-KEYSTER-CARB-KIT-1985-2005_W0QQitemZ380186182261QQcmdZViewItemQQptZMotorcycles_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5884dcc275
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