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Showing results for tags 'expensive'.
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I've contemplated installing the EBC HH pads on my laden '90, but have reservations due to the reported high rotor wear. Rotors for my bike are very expensive if one can even find them. Any First Gen owners with long term HH pad installations out there? What is the accumulated mileage with the HH? Notice any significant rotor wear? What kind of riding have you subjected the bike while wearing the HH pads? One probably shouldn't attempt to put a price on safety (good braking), but if after spending $100 for just the pads and then perhaps several hundred more for rotors (or worse, having no ride-able motorcycle because one can't get any replacement rotors) after a couple seasons of back roads, two-up, trailer towing touring, well that is unacceptably expensive.
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Just wondering if anyone that has these on a 2nd Gen (not triked) and what your thoughts are? I like the idea of the passenger comfort but do they get in the riders way? When backing the bike up, do you make sure they are in the back position or can you back up the bike with them forward? At $250 they seem expensive... but worthwhile?
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It's getting much closer to when I plan to trike my '09 RSV. I first considered the "4 wheel" route, then decided on the Hannigan trike. But I'm seeing a lot of bikes with the Voyager style kit. Talking with a couple of owners of both styles I'm again thinking of the Voyager kit. Much less expensive and removable. I would only remove it if needed however. I hate to keep flip flopping on this, but either way is expensive and I'm just concerned that the Hannigan (roughly $16K set up the way I want it) would be overkill. The Voyager riders I've talked with have both really liked their kits and their wives did also. But so did the Hannigan rider that I talked with. I even went up and looked at the HD Trike (sorry) and also test rode a Can-Am Spyder. I really like the Spyder except for the driver foot position. Before I commit to something this costly I REALLY REALLY want to ensure that I have all my ducks in a row!
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Had to replace the wife's tires on her '05 F-150, and we ended up going with Nitto's instead of one of the other better known brands. I did a lot of research on them, and they rated out even better than Michelin's for light duty trucks, and were $300 less expensive. They are very quiet on the road and have a 65,000 mile treadwear rating. Anyone have any experience with this brand? http://www.nittotire.com/
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Hola, Not sure where the best place to post this is but I need a rear caliper for a 2008 RSTD and a rear disk. I know i can find them online (expensive) was hoping someone may have one just laying around they would part with for a reasonable price. Thanks SJ
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I thought the Venture was expensive to get set up the way I wanted. This new Wing is going to get even more expensive. After ordering a windshield and a few more things from Wingstuff I've already invested about $1500 in stuff and there are a few more things on my shopping list. Fortunately my wife doesn't watch the bank account too closely. However, it did cost me an evening in Coldwater Creek. That was about as expensive. Dennis
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The link below should take you to the 10 most expensive bikes in the world. At least that is the title of the article. I thought it was interesting that from $90,000-$300,000+ each bike would only be good for a short ride if that. None of them lets me carry any stuff. Some of the bikes reminds me of one of my favorite thoughts - Just because you can build something does not mean that you should. http://motorcycles.about.com/od/buyingamotorcycle/tp/The-10-Most-Expensive-Motorcycles-in-the-World.htm
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The plug that one would plug the headset in located on the gas tank is waring out from being connected so many times. Babbits wants $50 some bucks for it and the Yama dealer wants $80. Anyone now of repairing or installing a new 5 pin socket or a less expensive place to buy the part, J& M would need a part # which it don't have. Any suggestions?
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If you're ever in the Okanagan area of BC and want to try something really cool, check this out... http://okracingexperience.com/ A little expensive for a guy like me but if I had the extra bucks, I'd not hesitate.
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SO one of the spacers is missing (the bolt kindly stayed in the trunk) that stands the saddlebag off the frame... Anyone have a good replacement suggestion other than ordering one from the (notoriously slow and expensive) Yammy Parts Shop?? Can I get something similar at a local hardware store?
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i've read lots of posts on here about buying expensive pipes , only to be disappointed with them being too loud...and now having to sell, trade ,swap, buy...and be disappointed again.....i did the same thing...with my roadhouse pipes but i found a $5 solution to the problem that might work for others here , if you have removable baffles...........i haven't seen it mentioned here.............aside from having the baffles wrapped.....buy two stainless steel scrub pads and put one in the front of the baffle....to keep the pad from being blown out...i used a vise to squeeze a section of the baffle down....i didn't insert the baffle horizontally in the vise, but as vertical as i could get it...and pretty much in the middle.....this might do the trick for you and save the $300 - $500 pipes you just bought.....worth a try anyway....
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I'm changing oil AGAIN ! Last spring I changed to Amsoil, bike seemed to be OK, then it started 'whining' again so I bought a quart of MotorCoat and added a few ounces. The 'whine' got louder but I let it go until this year. After the few rides I've been able to do so far (about 300 miles) it seems like the 'whine' is still there and VERY annoying. Right now the bike is sitting in the garage dripping, has been for 20 minutes or so. I'm going back to Mobile One and NO Motorcoat - see how that does on the ride to DC this coming weekend. I guess I should qualify the above statement - my habits include camping with our Travel Trailer, fishing and I work a part time job. All of that means that I may get around 3 or 4 thousand miles a year. Changing oil twice a year IS expensive when it's $10 a quart and not enough miles to warrant a change.
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Hey guys, I need to get my clutch redone, sorted out as it's slipping at highway speeds.. not so bad when taking off from a stop but up on the highway, dropping the hammer really screams up the revs and eventually I'll feel some accelleration. Folks have been leading on to the PCW Racing clutch kit, which is not as expensive as thd Barnett clutch kit. Comparing apples to oranges, is one better than the other or are we looking as one being as good as the other, only price being the difference? I couldn't reach the PCW people today.. ergh
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Saw an HD with one of these bags on his luggage rack. I liked it. It's waterproof and less expensive than a lot of bags we've looked at: http://www.roadreadybags.com/products/touringrackbags.html
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I recently added a post to the first gen tech library that lists a couple of automotive thermostats that can be used in place of the expensive Yamaha thermostats on the first gen bikes. Somebody asked if these thermostats would also work on the second gen. Does anybody know?
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THE MOST EXPENSIVE SKID-IN YET..........
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I hope someone has some advice for me:confused24: As I needed handlebars with more pullback, and couldn't get any here, I purchased some Flanders bars from www.sideroadcycles.com (medium width pullback No. 650-08773) They now tell me that it will be too expensive to mail them over!!! US mail service say they are too large(wide), and if they are sent UPS it will be approx. $US300:doh: Can any of you kind folks suggest an alternative way to ship these handlebars to Australia?:bowdown::bowdown:PLEASE
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How do those of you with the 25" Clearview windshield like them? My wife is getting too much wind and says it goes up under the helmet making her feel like she is being lifted off the bike. I know they are expensive. are they worth it?
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I notice that some have a hard time finding some maintenance items we need for our bikes... OR some are marked up so high that we don't WANT to get them from Yamaha. I've worked in auto parts for the last 30 years so I used that experience to find a few alternatives. They are parts that will fit and are easier to find or they are less expensive than factory but they are all available at either Nissan,Toyota or Honda car dealers. It's only a few numbers now but if I find more I'll add to them. Parts List
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I know Moly-60 is THE lube to use but I ran across this on some bike guys website. "An alternative to moly is the new poly-flourinated lubricants made by DuPont called Krytox Teflon Bearing Grease. These chemicals are simply magic. They have almost no known solvents, are chemically inert, and don't burn at any temperature, even in a pure oxygen atmosphere. This is pretty clearly the only grease to use. See this article. Nascar mechanics have found that Krytox grease can reduce the temperature of spline joints on drive shafts by 150°. Also, this stuff lasts forever. It is, unfortunately, quite expensive." How expensive? The Moly60 is roughly $10 for 8 oz from your Honda or Acura car dealer. That same 8 oz of Krytox is... $147.54!! Or 2 oz for $44.55. :shock3: I'm happy with the Moly60.
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Mk2 Right front caliper?? This is surplus to need from all the calipers I accumulated over the last 2 years. Along with all the others, it has been disassembled and cleaned, honed, and pistons polished. I did NOT install new seals on this one but did pick out the best from all the used seals I had. It's yours for the asking as I now have 3 complete sets all rebuilt. *@#&% seal sets are EXPENSIVE!! Help clear out my garage...
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Wow this is getting expensive. I went to advance to get a couple thing to clean the bike with. After my military discount and still $40 later i have a few things to clean the bike with. My wife is going to kill me soon. I bought the bike as a way to save money on gas to work. I am making up for that money on products to make her like aweome. I am getting away with it so far becaue i explained it isnt something i have to buy every week. Anyone else having this problem? its like a drug addiction right now.
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I purchased one of the little bells to go on a bike and it has come apart up at the top. Nothing left but the wire and the little ringer part. Has anyone had this to happen. These little things were expensive if I remember. I haven't hit anything with it it just came apart. Are they warrantied?