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Showing results for tags 'equalizer'.
Found 7 results
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I'm looking at getting the 100 LED brake light and the integrated LED run/brake/turn signals from Custom Dynamics. Rear Signal lights - Dynamic Cluster - "The Dynamic Clusters will fit into your turn signal housings. You will need to find out if you have 1156 or 7507 bulbs in the rear. Now for the running and brake of the cluster you will have to hard wire that in. The signal light just plugs in. You will also need a load equalizer or a metric signal stabilizer. The Metric Signal Stabilizer will not produce any heat. That will allow you to run your 4 ways flashers and not do any damage. If you leave the front turn signals stock. It will NOT cause any issue. If you just do the rear LEDs you will only need one load equalizer. If you decide to do the front turn signals at a latter date you will need a load equalizer for the front." http://www.customdynamics.com/motorcycle_dynamic_clusters.htm GEN200-AR-7507-T $81/pair *** confirm signal lighbulb type - other option is GEN200-AR-1156-T See the following link to identify bulb type - http://www.customdynamics.com/bulb_identification_help.htm http://www.customdynamics.com/loadequalizer.htm#Universal Turn Signal GEN-7.5-30 $15.25 100 LED Brake light - "The GEN-100-1157 YAM tail light is a direct replacement for your tail light and will not require any modules" http://www.customdynamics.com/Yamaha_tail_retro.htm GEN-100-1157YAM - $89.95 There are discount codes available on the Internet that give a 5% discount on orders over $150. I've asked them if it is possible to set one up for VentureRiders.org but since there is no "payback" to the site it probably doesn't matter. The code I found that works is "rswarrior". I'll update this if they provide a special one for us. I am not associated with Custom Dynamics and am providing this information for members so they have the details in one thread should they want to upgrade to LED. Free shipping to the U.S.. To Canada only option is UPS Expedited at $32.95 (site says no brokerage fee). I've asked if they will ship USPS to Canada. Another member also mentioned to tell them that the bike has a radio on it so they will apply an RF coating to the wiring. Response from Custom Dynamics (and they have been very responsive!) "If you use the load equalizer there will be no interferance. If you were to use our Signal Stabilizer I would get the RF coating. That will do away with any chances of getting any RF noise"
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Hi guys, one last attempt with a new load equalizer to slow my signal flash rate. In the rear of the bike I have normal LED cluster but in the front I have the Custom Dynamics Moon Shinez white signal lights which is most likely confusing the system from accepting the normal load equalizer practice of placement. I recently picked up the Custom Dynamics Street Magic Metric equalizer unit but after discussing it with another member, it would appear we have the same unit but there lies some confusion about the wires and seemingly different instructions for the same product. The instructions I have says to hook the RED wire (which has a fuse holder and battery connector lug) to the battery... The BLACK wire to a suitable ground and then the BROWN and the PURPLE each to the right and left rear signal wire. (They state the REAR signal wires and it's supposed to work to quell the speed on front and rear LED signal lights?) The other member has his connected to the signal flash relay located under the right side cover (the square looking black relay) and says his actually does work, slowing down the flash rate properly... but his instructions and unit have different colours. The relay connector plug has 5 wires to it laid out as such: BLACK YELLOW WHITE with white stripe BROWN BLANK BROWN with red stripe with white stripe In order to make this unit work, and attached to the wires on the connector, which wire does what on the connector? What's the best way to find the correct wires as per instructions? Either I've been working at this too long and now totally confused or I'm just too jittery to experiment and blow up the bike..! If you know for sure (no wild guesses, please), drop me a line and fill me in.. It's totally possible that the Shinez front signal lights are indeed impossible to make work with a load equalizer but I dunno.. These lights stay ON bright and when signalling, they simple switch off... then on, then off.. instead of the typical dim running lights blinking brighter.. perhaps these are impossible to slow down? Anyway.. late night, time for bed.. hopefully someone will have the solution.. Thanks in advance. Cheers
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Wife got me the Tri-Star XP brake light conversion. Over the years, I have done my share of wiring in radios, speakers, and accessories in vehicles. I have rewired trailers and such, so I am not "scared" to tackle this, but it looks a little involved. 1. Am I going to need addtional wiring? Does not look like there is enough included. 2. Is the load equalizer needed on an RSV? -
Hey Guys/Gals: Thought I would post this so if any one else has this problem I might help. Purchased from Custom Dynamics LED boards to replace both the front and rear turn signals on an 05 RSV. Also purchased a 4 amp load equalizer from them as well (turned out to be a Kuryakyn 4807 load equalizer). Changed out the bulbs on the left side placed the load equalizer on the rear harness, turned on the key to "ON" and the blink rate was fast, went to the local shop and got a 2 amp and wired it in to the front harness. Still no change in the blink rate. Wrote to Kuryakyn for help. Since the fairing was split and the seat off I decided to move the bike to the side of my garage. Started the bike up and for the "hell of it" hit the directional signal switch, damn if they didn't blink at the normal rate. Go figure!!!!!!! So if any of you have replaced your lights with LED's and fine the blink rate fast added a load equalizer and it is still fast, kick the bike over, they may slow down. Figured I would give you this piece of advice so others will not have go through the same thing as I did. BTW 116 & 1157 have a 2amp draw, so a 2amp load equalizer on both harnesses should do the trick. Sponge Bob Tucson AZ It's a dry heat.
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I just purchased the Genisis Flat LED (Custom Dynamics) turn signals for both front and back on my 05 RSV, as well as their 4 amp. load equalizer. I am assuming that the wiring harness from the rear turn signals goes under the seat. What colors are the wires for both the left and right rear turn signals? I am adding a load equalizer to this set up and need to know what wires to tap for both the rear turn signals. Any help will be greatly appriciated. I can do most things on the bike however I need a little help from time to time, and this is one of those times. Sponge Bob Tucson AZ It's a dry heat:confused24:
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Graphic Equalizer in place of Cassette. Submitted by John Richie Most of the credit for this installation process goes to Kevin Wisor who brought up the topic back in Dec 06. I am providing the steps with photos. The 7 band graphic equalizer is the Pyramid Model 403G, $25.00 at www.etronics.com, advertised as 100 watt amp with a 12 db boost for each band. Dimensions are 4.8"W x 4.75"D x 1"H. The new sound is an improvement over factory, especially if you boost all of the bands, but is only for the speakers, not the headset. This setup disables the cassette player and removes the connector for the CD player (attached to cassette circuit board). The equalizer fits perfectly in the original case for the factory cassette player, but does require modifying the face plate to accept the front of the equalizer. Removal of the cassette player also removes the factory AUX plug, so run an extension line from the factory head unit to a new location on the inner fairing. The speakers work both with the power turned on or off for the equalizer. Installation requires tapping into the speaker wiring harness, as the equalizer needs an output source from the factory amplifier. I cut the wires from the front left/right speaker harness, and used as the left and right “output” as shown on the electrical connection diagram. These go to the “input” on the equalizer. Run new wires to all speakers from the equalizer. Since I could not locate the rear speaker wire in the front fairing harness, I just ran new wires to the rear speaker(s). This disengages the factory fader control on the handlebar remote, but the equalizer has a fader control for the front to rear. The basic installation steps follow, with photos: Remove (split) the Front Fairing. Remove headlight assembly. Remove the brackets holding the stereo head unit, move head unit to left side (out of the way). Remove the four mounting bolts for the cassette deck, and remove the two screws that hold the cassette face plate to the inner fairing. Unplug AUX line and cassette deck wire connector. Keep the cassette deck front door closed for removal of cassette unit from the inner fairing. Carefully (toward the front of the bike) pull the cassette unit out of the inner fairing. Photo of cassette deck. Cut clear protective tape, remove the two lid screws, and lift the top from the deck. NOTE: Do NOT remove the side screws that hold the door assembly! Bottom: remove screws, clamps, and remove the cassette works (mounted with four rubber shock mounts). Pull off the rubber grommet protecting the rear deck wires and reuse when installing the equalizer. Also, I used the connector cap for the CD connector to cap off the original wiring harness connector for the cassette deck. Measure and cut the face plate of the cassette housing to allow mounting of the equalizer. Carefully cut the plastic face plate with a Dremel. The equalizer should be pushed into the face plate enough to use the fader and power button, but not too far or the front door will not close properly. The cut area should be made to fit between the top lip and the 2 fairing mount screw holes at the bottom of the cassette plastic face plate. After I did the rough grinding, I carefully used a small file to fine tune the cut area until the equalizer fit snugly in the face plate. Final mounting of the equalizer in the housing. I did not use the supplied mounting brackets for the equalizer, but instead removed the side screws from the equalizer box, drilled a hole on each side of the cassette housing, and mounted the equalizer with a metric machine screw on each side. The equalizer is held in the front by the plastic face plate and on the sides by the two mounting screws. Re-use the rubber grommet from the cassette deck wires to mount the wires from the equalizer on the rear slot of the housing. Re attach the top lid to the cassette housing and cover with clear packing tape to protect from water damage. Make sure that the door opens and closes properly. Reinstall the equalizer/cassette housing unit in the inner fairing, and again check the door for smooth operation. Disconnect the wire to the rear speaker(s) and run a new set under the seats and gas tank to the front fairing. Since I removed the trunk from my RSV, I only use one speaker in the rear, mounted between the bars of the passenger back support. For those with the trunk, the factory configuration uses only one set of wires for the two rear speakers (mono sound), so now is your chance to run two sets of wires, one to each rear speaker, for true stereo sound in the rear. Hook up all of the wiring for the equalizer using the supplied wiring diagram. Turn on the key, power up the equalizer, and check that all is well. Re-mount the front fairing and enjoy. Thanks, John Richie
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Can anyone help me with this? I've replaced my rear turn signals with LED clusters & installed a load equalizer to correct the flash rate. Yesterday I replaced the front running/turn lights with LED clusters as well, but after installing another load equalizer to keep the flash rate correct, the flash rate is double what it should be. Is there a specific location I need to put the load equalizer? Does it need to be somewhere inside the fairing? The first one is on the rear side of the harness under the seat. I put the other one on the other side of the harness, but it doesn't work there. I'm obviously not putting it in the right place. Any help with solving this is deeply appreciated. Thanks.
