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Showing results for tags 'epoxy'.
Found 12 results
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Hi everyone, Just noticed the carb mount, throat thing on on the front left cyl is cracked. That would explain all the goo. What are these called? Can they be fixed? Looks like a little epoxy might do it maybe. Does anybody have any they would like to sell? Thanks!
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I've been using Caswells Epoxy Sealer on several fuel tanks since I did my '84 tank a few years ago. I'm happy with the results and the epoxy does an excellent job of bonding to the interior of the tank rusted or not. It's tough stuff. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer.html I just got an updates from Caswells on a new product, another epoxy sealer, but with a new feature. They have added a red color to the product so you can see the coverage on the inside of the tank, (for what you can see without an inspection camera). It's the same quality product from the original kit so I wouldn't be afraid to use it for any major repair. http://www.caswellplating.com/restoration-aids/epoxy-gas-tank-sealer/dragons-blood-gas-tank-sealer.html?utm_source=MailingList&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=May2012 So it's worth a look if you're in the market for a tank sealer. Mike
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Do any of you know of an epoxy or similar glue for plastics that is black? My favorite, JB Weld, mixes up gray, and I want to do a little gluing on the CB dash panel where the glue may be seen a little bit. Thanks, Jeremy
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My right side lower cowling to the right of the rad. and blocks the wind from your leg. And covers the air breather. It is broke from the mounting bracket. Anyone know of a good glue or epoxy I can use to try and fix it?
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but I didn't realize they were still caught up inside the right lower. As some know the PO fell down and skinned up the the whole right side of my bike before I bought it. I knew this going in, so no big deal. Not sure what happened to the left lower, but the front two button head bolts are all that is holding both lowers on. Yesterday I decided to install my new wind deflectors that mount on the crash bars. Well the PO had just straightened the right one even though the top mounting hole was torn. The deflector did not look right, so I decided to install the new (to me) crash bar that has been on my shelf for too long. When I pulled the lower, the two broken mounting tabs fell out, Yay!!! The PO had tried to glue them back on with some type of hard white stuff. It didn't "weld" to the ABS. As the tabs edges would not sit flat down on the mating surface I didn't think the ABS glue would hold them, so I decided on reinforcement, ABS glue and epoxy. Not the prettiest repair, cause there are screw heads showing, but I suspect the tabs will not come off anytime soon! I found some sheet metal screws(they don't all match, but they don't show either) and installed them at 90 degree angles, then filled the cavities with (two part) epoxy. The epoxy may/may not stick to the ABS, but it WILL stick to the metal screws!
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Like this hasn't been dicussed before! Ha! Last December when I stored my bike I removed all the plactic and bought it into my basement shop with the intention of making all the repairs needed on the tabs and broken or missing pins. Oh yeah! And the headlight cover .... or replace it. So a good cleaning and a long look at everything showed me I had more work to do than I thought and I needed stuff to do it right. A really good epoxy and some ABS flatstock to replace or create new tabs and build up cracked areas on the fairings. Ok..... a couple of things. I tried 5 different epoxies over the winter. All dual chamber, 2 part dispensors for hard plastics or ABS listed on the package. I bought one "quick set, short cure time" and well, not worth it. All of the ones I chose were about 24 hours cure time. But from what I found, and tried a lot of different ways of testing the end repair, that they all seemed to have the same result with proper prep of the plastic to be repaired. As for repair materials.........you find things in the strangest places some times. I found all kinds of ABS flat stock at a grocery store. For FREE!! The store was doing a reset in the pop isle and all those plastic bin and shelf sliders are plastic......ABS plastic. Got to talking to the manager and they had ordered all new signage for the isles and displays and had stacks of sheets of plastic on the back waiting to be thrown out. Checked it out....three different thicknesses of ABS sheets. Some were 3 ft square. That should hold me through the testing process. But anyway I wanted to share some of my ideas and the way repairs were done. I know the head light covers suffer from cracked screw holes on a lot of the bikes and mine had really gone South so I'll start with that. The mounting holes in mine had given out and were missing pieces. So I tried this. Grind or sand out any rough edges and rough up the remaining surfaces with sandpaper. I wiped it all down with alcohol to remove any loose particals and oil. Next I packed the areas I wanted to keep open with modeling clay. Better than trying to reshape it later. I wrapped the front of the head light cover around the repair area with wax paper to shape the outer side of the repair. Attach it firmly with masking tape and create a cup for the epoxy. Fill the area with epoxy and let it cure. It's going to be thick so a couple of days would be plenty of time. Peel off the tape and wax paper. Most the paper will peel off and what sticks is easy to sand off. Remove the modeling clay and you will see the basic repair. I used a Dremel with a sanding drum to shape the epoxy rough and then used a sanding block to final shape it. Mask off the corners again and give it a light coat of primer. You will see any defects that need to be fixed. A light sanding and another thin coat of the epoxy to fill the defects and after curing it's ready for the final sand down, primer and the new paint. The paint is the tricky part. Still waiting for the color matching to work out and then the air brushing will be done. So far......installed it......and it took a good tightening with no cracking. So much for the head light. Next......the side panel pins.
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Well that was a long Daytona 500, but I liked the end. I'm glad Jamie won that, after losing his ride last year. They should have used that epoxy the first time they tried fixing the track though. Would have shortened the time we sat around watching it dry. Margaret
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Ok.....I'm down to the tricky part. After dealing with the rust in my tank I'm down to applying the epoxy resin tomorrow. The tank looks a lot better than it did and the epoxy should solve any future rust issues. My question is, are there any interior baffles in the neck of the tank? I noticed while I was shaking the tank with a handful of grabber screws and a tube of BB's that very few made it into the filler neck. Using an inspection mirror I could not see anything in the upper neck but couldn't get that good of a look up inside. The only "baffle" I can see is the neck of the filler tube going down into the neck a few inches. Anything other than that? Just trying to figure the surface area so I mix enough epoxy to cover EVERYTHING! Thanks -
I went back to Wal-Mart to clean out their stock of this magnificent ABS epoxy and BOOM! They were out and didn't even have the display any longer. A severe panic set in so I went on a mission and finally found it at O'Reilly Auto, AutoZone and K-Mart. Wheew...a close call! You might still have it at Wal-Mart where you live, but I'm pretty certain these others will carry it for quite a while.
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Just found some new crud for sealing those older tanks. First off if you have been sort of satisfied with KREEM in the past after you use this stuff you'll thro the KREEM away. Highly reccomend using the quart size offer - more than enough to do 2 tanks - find a buddy to split it with or it'll save. ____________________________________________________________________________ Epoxy Gas Tanoughenank Sealer http://support.caswellplating.com/themes/client_default/supportsuite.gifhttp://support.caswellplating.com/themes/client_default/space.gif Need Assistance? Click "Chat Now" to chat with a Live Operator. Chat Now No Thanks! http://support.caswellplating.com/themes/client_default/staffonline.gif PHENOL NOVOLAC EPOXY GAS TANK SEALER http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/images/Gs-tnk.jpg http://www.caswellplating.com/images/applications_title.gif Permanently repair two 5 gallon fuel tanks or one 10 gallon tank Saves hundreds of dollars in repairs Also works on plastic and fiberglass Withstands modern ethanol fuels http://www.caswellplating.com/images/related_title.gif Permatex Instant Gas Tank Repair Putty - Fills Large Holes Before Using This Epoxy Sealer Permanently Repairs Steel, Aluminum, Fiberglass and Plastic Gas Tanks Read The Application Instructions (24kb PDF) Phenol Novolac Epoxies are a new breed of chemical resistant materials, able to withstand permanent immersion of many harsh solvents, fuels and oils. This Epoxy has much better bond strength than single component products, with strengths of up to 3000 PSI, and this higher strength reduces the need for a clinically clean surface, as the epoxy actually prefers to bond to a rough rusty surface. Our new phenol novolac is more thixotropic, which means it 'hangs' on the tank walls during the coating process. This gives a thicker overall coating. There is more volume of material in the kit to allow for this. http://www.caswellplating.com/aids/images/gtsbox.jpg What else can you use Gas Tank Sealer for? A corrosion and chemical resistant coating. ie: battery compartments. A high strength adhesive where plenty of working time is needed. A potting compound, to encapsulate electronics A non-skid surface, just bed in aluminum oxide. Relining old potato peeler machines (Hobart type) - coat liner and bed in aluminum oxide. Repair leaks in concrete vessels, Add fine sand to make a mortar. Bonds to almost anything except polyethylene. Bonds to Wood, plastic, rubber, concrete, metals. Making high quality molds - virtually no shrinkage on curing. Thin cross section repair of sheared parts, such as; broken cups, dishes, or a split leg on a chair. Application Instructions All traces of oil and gasoline should first be removed by pouring about 1 pint of acetone or lacquer thinner into the tank, and rotating the tank several times to thoroughly sluice the sides with solvent. Dispose of the contaminated solution. When recoating your gas tank from failed Kreem or POR-15 tank sealers, remove the old, failed coating using a paint stripper containing Methylene Chloride. Place a hand full of drywall screws into the tank and shake them around vigorously for several minutes. These will dislodge any loose particles of rust. In the case of Fiberglass and plastic tanks, this will rough up the tank interior, improving adhesion. Rinse out the tank with about 1-pint of acetone or lacquer thinner, then set aside and allow to dry. Use an airline to blow air into the tank to aid drying. Apply duct tape or masking tape to any weeping seams, holes or porous areas. This will stop any Gas Tank Sealer from oozing out, and will allow it to bridge over the hole. Plug the outlet ports with putty or Play-Doh. Mix up the required amount of Gas Tank Sealer (one unit should treat two x five gallon tanks) If you are only treating ONE 5 gal (or smaller) tank, then divide parts A & B in half. You could use a dipstick to gauge this. In a separate plastic container (margarine tub etc.) mix the two parts together thoroughly for at least 2 minutes. Scrape around the sides to ensure all resin is blended together. BAD MIXING AND BAD MEASURING IS THE #1 CAUSE OF FAILURE!! Pour into the tank, then immediately seal up the filler hole with Gladwrap and an elastic band. Swill the tank around in every direction for several minutes to obtain a good layer of Gas Tank Sealer over all surfaces. Remove the filler cap,Gladwrap seal, and pour out any excess. Allow to drain upside down for a few minutes. If you have a built in fuel filter, blow air into the fuel line port for about 10 minutes. This will clear the filter of any Gas Tank Sealer. Scrape off any excess with a sharp knife at this point (usually about 40-60 Min after mixing) Place the tank in a warm 70-90 f place and allow to cure overnight. In the case of alcohol fuels, allow 3-5 days at room temperature, or 24 hours at 120 deg f. 1 Pint Of Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer coats up to 2 x 5 gal tanks A few weeks ago you sent me your gas tank sealer kit. In the meantime, I have tried it and I just wanted to tell you that IT'S A GREAT PRODUCT! It worked perfectly well! Now I have a perfect gas tank again for about 40 US$ (including spray paint etc.). A local repair shop wanted about 1000 bucks (no kidding!) for welding and repainting the tank . So, I guess I made a good deal. Thanks a lot for providing such a great product and also for your excellent service. Best regards, Aldo Hoermann ______________________________________________________________________ QuantityProduct CodeNameSizePrice GTS1750 Epoxy Gas Tank Sealer (Motorcycle Tanks - Up To 10 Gal)1 pint$34.95 http://www.caswellplating.com/caswellcart/images/noair.gif GTSCEpoxy Gas Tank Sealer (Car Tanks - Up to 20 Gal)1 Quart$64.99 http://www.caswellplating.com/caswellcart/images/noair.gif GTS1GEpoxy Gas Tank Sealer (Tanks Up To 80 Gal)1 Gallon$199.99
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Sometimes we get a nick in the metal fork tube (chrome) and it can cause a fork seal to be torn and eventually leak after replacement. You really do not want to replace that expensive tube and the good news is, you might not have to. For a nick in one of my tubes, I followed a similar procedure desribed here: First, sand the rough edges of the burr with various grits of wet sandpaper, perhaps starting with a 220 grit and going up to a 600 grit. Anything not handled by these sandpapers may need a careful touch with a fine file, just to take the high impacted (raised) metal down. The nick or pit (in the case of rust) should be cleaned of any corrosion and again sanded on the edges to eliminate roughness. Then a dab of epoxy (J.B. Weld Kwik) which sets in 5 minutes may be added to the nick. Afterwards, you can sand the epoxy level with a sanding block conforming to the tube shape. The epoxy should be sanded until it is not higher than the rest of the tube and not really noticeable to the touch even. If it is still lower (concave - needing to be filled) add another layer of epoxy after the first sanding. If you get this right, you will have a durable surface that will not leak or tear a new seal and without replacing an expensive fork tube. You might want to rotate the tube so it is not readily noticeable somewhere near the back for the best aesthetic appeal. Hope this makes someone else a happy camper too, Louie
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ok yall help me out here....can anyone tell me what purpose is the y.i.c.s chamber for and what does it do. when i got my 1st gen. venture 1 of the nipples was broke off and no kind of epoxy would hold it on. yamaha says that its an obsolete part, and i finally got 1 from pinwall cycle but im just wondering what its for.
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