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Showing results for tags 'engine'.
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Does anyone have tips and tricks to drop the 4 carb assembly down on the rubber manifolds. I don't like forcing them. The engine is v'd around the crankshaft, and the carbs are in a V setup along the length of the bike, so the manifolds are too close together if you just try dropping them down. Tips and trick. Already tried warming the manifolds with a heat gun.. -
The wife and I set out on a ride this afternoon on our 2013 RSV. Beautiful day, lots of sun and a temperature around 79F. As were heading down the interstate at 75MPH I start noticing that I'm feeling more hot air around my legs than normal and at about the same time my wife asks if I've changed anything on the bike since our last ride because her left leg is a lot hotter then usual. Everything sounds fine and the tach is still at 3500rpm as normal for that speed. We've only gone about 12 miles from the house at this point so with both of us noticing a difference I pull over into a weigh station and take a cursory look at the bike. I don't see anything out of the ordinary but the engine is much hotter than I've ever felt before so I decided to head back home. Got home and turned the bike off and then turned the key back on but didn't start the bike. I was startled to hear the fan came on as I've never heard it before in the 2 years we've owned the bike. Even after an 1100 mile ride through Kentucky last month not once did I hear this fan come on when at a stop. Anyone have an idea as to why my bike was running so hot after less than 25 miles? As I said it wasn't an especially hot day and I'm a little concerned about this. The oil level is fine and was actually just changed 6 weeks ago prior to our SS1K to Mobile 1 synthetic 10W40. I did notice a small bit of oil on the garage floor, maybe the size of a 50 cent piece, after it had sat for about an hour. It looks like it came out of the middle of the 3 drain lines under the bike (see pic). I've never had oil under the bike so again I'm concerned with all this. Any help would be appreciated.
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Hi, I am stuck with an engine problem. SO the problem is i purchase a 1996 Royal Star Touring XVZ1300AT with a broken conrod thinking i'd just slot another engine in. I'm in Australia so there are not a lot of wrecked bikes for parts. Then in the USA was advertised a 1999 Royal Start Touring engine and i check the VIN suitability on eBay and went ahead and ordered it at a crazy price with freight but didn't really have an option. Then it arrived and I noticed the exhaust air injectors(maybe cap off so thats OK), but the carburetor boots are much larger on this engine so the old carby would not fit. I then asked them for the VIn it came of and it turn out int a Royal Star Venture XVZ1300TF, similar, but different!! So i thought great, I'll take the boots off the old engine and just fit them, but NO, the mounting bolts pitch is much larger on the venture engine so that wont work. I'm now stuck and my questions are : Option 1 is to get the Venture carby's but I believe that the venture carburetors end up much higher and wont fit in a Touring frame and would need to filter air box changed. Option 2 swap the heads on the engines, a pain but it solves both problems and they look like they would be able to be swapped ok so anyone whos done this I'd appreciate and advise.
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... of his local Yamaha PRO dealership, and states he is here because the engine on his RSTD blew up. The service manager smiles and says, "you are kidding, right?" The man assures him that he is not. Maybe it wasn't an explosion, but there was a cloud of oil and his engine lost power. It was exciting to get to the shoulder from the left lane, dodging between cars in the right. So then the man tells the manager that he and a buddy had seen the hole in a mirror, and it is in the front of the engine, near the seam of the lower and upper case. The service manager is filled with wonder, because he'd never heard of a hole in a RSTD or Venture in his 12 years of experience with Yamaha. Later, the man comes in to sign the agreement to pay 6 hours/$600 if the diagnostic determines that the fault isn't covered by the warranty. He overhears the head technician exclaim in disbelief that there is a hole, because the service manager had just told him so. Clearly both the tech and the manager are excited at the extremely novel problem. The man's friend later overhears the tech in the garage, telling another wrench about the exciting news. The service manager explains that they service bikes FIFO, and that it will be the end of the next week before they can get to the man's bike. He warns the man that it could take over three weeks to complete the repair. The man says that would be speedy indeed, because his club members thought it would be closer to eight weeks. The service manager looks down, abashed, and concedes that scenario is more likely. The man and his friend leave the bike behind, after discussing with the service manager how members of the club would want to lay eyes on the destroyed engine, to see themselves what had happened. This will be done, it is agreed, unless Yamaha requires the parts to be sent for their analysis. Thus ends the opening stages of Roxie's repair.
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Hi, I am a new member and my name is Jeff, I am from Manchester, England but live in Thailand in the winter and have the pleasure of owning a Royal Star over here. The problem I have is that one or the conrods broke and one piece went through the crankcase and the other into the cylinder wall so you can imagine the mess, oh, and it bent the crankshaft as well. I have sourced a second hand engine in the States but before shipping it over I need to make sure it will fit in my bike. Mine is a 1997 model but the engine is off a 2005, can anybody help me here or has had similar experience with this problem, thanks Jeff
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Well folks, I have been having some weird issues with my 2001 RSV and I am not really sure if they are in fact issues or related so here we go... Summary of 'symptoms': 1) Engine cut out (like someone hit the cut off switch; engine died only, no stumbling/starving for fuel, no interruption on the radio) when shifting from first to second and from second to first 2) Engine sometimes cranks for a long time before starting (happens hot or cold) More detailed explanations of each: (1) It was a slightly cooler morning (30s-40s ish) but not any cooler than it had been in prior weeks, and I did what I ALWAYS do before leaving for work. Come out to the garage, load my crap in the trunk, turn the fuel on, start the bike (no choke necessary - my garage stays reasonably warm), back out of the garage, give the bike 10-20 seconds, tweak the throttle to check for proper warm-up time, all is good so I take off. While driving up the road, no more than a few hundred yards from my house (somewhere between 20 and 30 mph) I go to shift into second, as soon as I push the shift lever the motor dies. It was a near instant cut out - ie no starving for fuel, no stumbling, no chugging etc. The first thing I check is the engine cut off switch (sometimes I bump it with my thumb), then the side stand, all is good so I pop the clutch and it starts right back up. I immediately u-turn and roll back home (I live downhill from where I was), pull in the drive way and inspect stuff. I turn the key off and back on to check for the fuel pump noise (which was present and clicking like it should). I checked the side-stand switch, clutch safety switch, etc etc and all seemed fine. Decided to give it another go, bike started right up and I rode to work with no problems. This happed 2-3 weeks ago. I had assumed that I had maybe not let the bike warm up enough, tweaked the throttle while shifting and maybe it cut out. This morning, I rode in (temperature ~70) and stopped at the bank. The bike is plenty warm at this point. Pulling out of the bank, all goes fine until I start to slow down for a stop sign, again a few hundred yards from the bank, go to down shift into first and the engine dies. Just like before, all of the electronics stayed on without interruption (radio played continuously, etc etc) and it was like I had hit the engine shut off switch but I did not. I do not recall hitting any big bumps or whatever either, it was a smooth patch of road. I do not recall this morning if I tapped the starter to restart the bike or just popped the clutch; either way it started right back up and it ran fine the rest of the way back to work. When I left my house, I know for sure the fuel pump did its clickity thing because I heard it. As a result of issue (2) I have been making a point of shutting the petcock off 2-4 miles from my house so that I can verify the pump operational everytime I start my bike. The fact that this engine cut out when shifting has happened twice now has be beginning to think that maybe it is a real issue or at least something to investigate. (2) Issue number two that may or may not be related is the occasional really long cranking time required to start my bike on occasion. I first noticed it last Thursday (8 days ago) I was about 200 miles into a ride and it started to get dark, I pulled over to the shoulder to change out my sunglasses for my clear safety glasses. All was running well until I went to start my bike. I hit the starter button and the bike cranked but did not start right away like it usually does. I cranked it in a few bursts of about 3-5 seconds each then shut off the ignition, turned the petcock to off and let the bike sit for a minute or so (thinking maybe it was flooded). After letting it sit for 1-2 minutes I turned the key back to the on position, hit the starter and it fired right up. Turned the gas back to the ON position then took off. The bike ran fine for the rest of the evening. Friday morning, it was around 40 with rediculously high humidity (70+%) and the dew was really thick. [i was parked at a hotel as I was traveling for work]. I went out loaded up for the day and went to start the bike and it behaved similarly, it took several rounds of cranking before it eventually started (I turned the gas OFF over night and made sure to pull the choke all of the way out and turn the gas ON before trying to start it). After some cranking, similar to the previous day's behavior, it started right up and ran fine for my ride into where I was working that day and then back to the hotel again, that evening. The next day started off the same, weather wise, and the bike started without hesitation in the morning. I left work around noon and stopped by the local motorsickle dealership to paroose a bit before heading back home and when I went to restart my bike (after chatting with someone who was looking at a purdy RSTD adn telling him how reliable these bikes are ) I had a repeat of these symptoms - long cranking time before actually starting). The bike ran fine all ~300 miles back home so . I was careful to not stop on the side of the road and I stopped for fuel every 100 miles just in case it was bad gas or something. Since then this long cranking symptom has been present a few times and it seems to occur at inconsistent intervals (sometimes when the bike is warm and sometimes when it is cold). I drained my float bowles and the first round of fuel that came out looked awfully clear and smelled very weakly of gasoline. I left one of the float drain screws open and flowing into a glass jar while allowing the fuel pump to cycle and it pumped out just fine. After that first round the fuel came out looking like I expect good fuel to look and smell. For kicks, I did mix some fresh fuel with a few OZ of sea foam and pumped it straight into the carbs and let it sit that way overnight, re-drained in the morning then put fresh fuel in the tank and rode for a little bit. Again, driving/riding wise the engine seems to run fine. I have had a couple of these long crank times since I did the carb bowl drain, but it has only been maybe 2 or 3 times since last Saturday (my bike is my primary mode of transportation and it has been started several times within the last week). I feel like this could be a weak, intermittant or failing fuel pump but am not really sure what else it could be. My next course of action will be to change the fuel filter (current one has less than 10k miles on it, but if I did get a bit of bad fuel somewhere, I know it can clog in a hurry) and go ahead and put in new spark plugs (I am approaching 8k miles on the current set of plugs). I checked the header pipes during warm up and after riding for a while (IR thermometer) and all four are within 10 or so degrees of each other. I have been paying extra close attention to the fuel pump 'clickage' [suspecting a weak or intermittent fuel pump] and am strongly considering just replacing the dumb thing so I don't get stranded somewhere... I am at a loss for what else could be causing these symptoms and if these are even related to each other so I am all ears for suggestions of things to check, inspect, pay attention to or whatever. Thanks a lot! As usual, I am coming up to a departure date for a ~1-2 week ~6k mile ride and crap starts going wrong... yea me. :sign09: -
Well, after owning the '99 since....'99, I think I am now done with the engine chrome. Unless something else shows up. Diamond cut fins, balled milled twinky covers, carb covers and air breather covers. The twinky covers were here when I got home today. I'm happy with it.
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I just purchased an '07 Royal Star Venture with just under 10,000 miles on it. She is my first liquid cooled motorcycle, but I think that she is making too much engine heat as my feet are getting too warm and I am feeling more heat than I think that I should for a liquid cooled bike. Granted the ambient temperatures are a bit warm here in Georgia, but I still think she is running a bit warm. I had the coolant system flushed about three weeks ago but no change. I do not have a hot engine light at all. Would really like to get this fixed. My next step is to replace the thermostat, but looking for some advice first. Thanks. Verner
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My 2005 RSMV was involved in a wreck before I bought it. After carefully looking it over I decided to buy it. They did a great job fixing everything that was bent or broken, but I noticed a misalignment of the panels on the Left lower leg protectors. During Christmas vacation I had time to tear into it and see what was going on. The left engine guard/crash bar is slightly tweaked. I might be able to bend it back, but I thought I would post on here to see if anybody would by chance have one they would want to sell? I found a couple on e-bay, but they don't look like they are completely there or in good shape. There was a new one, but it was $260!! -
I have a Sebring 2002 LXI that had the issue on the timing chain 2 years ago and make the engine to stop working. Since I had health issues, I had never the money to decide between fix it or replace it for another one. Today they ask me around 4800$ for the total replacement of the engine with 5 years warranty from Jasper, or I have as option a good deal on a Saturn Aura XR 2007 with 125000 miles for 5500$, and as far as I can see only some rust in the hood latch internally, that I was checking and it is a normal issue. Did somebody has any experience with Jasper or Saturn that can help me to decide what to do? Thanks in advance for any opinion about it. calperin
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Seen in testing at Yamah test track. Already have a scooter (twist and go) version on the streets in japan. also have a test mule based off an R6. Could this and the multiplane engine be the reason for the big delay?
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Puc, Here are a few pics of my '77 MGB i've owned for around 3 yrs. Since these pics i've lowered the car some and done some exhaust work. Did a complete engine rebuild, SU carbs and all suspension pieces approx. 10K miles ago. This is what is replacing our totaled '07 RSTD.
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Has this every happened to anyone before? This one has me a bit perplexed. My 85VR, the output shaft to which the drive axle yoke bolts on to the engine (left side of middle gearbox just behind rubber boot) retaining bolt snapped clean off laying in boot. The only indication I had, that sent me looking was a recent oil leak on the left side. It most likely happened somewhere during my recent 4000km trip, probably on the way back. Can't remember anything taking place except I came back loaded up a bit heavier than going down. Looks like a winter job and might as well pick up the second gear pieces as well although she is not currently due. I wonder if it is any issue driving it for a bit as long as the oil leak does not worsen? I guess I made it for the last 1000 miles since I noticed the leak. At the moment it can't go anywhere but it can work on the output shaft as it is not under torque. Thought I would share that little gem with you all, who knows I could be the first! Lucky me! P.S. I did install the engine about 15,000 miles ago as a replacement and it could have been damaged by someone previously, but it is strange that it would last so long and then break. There was no partial cracks that showed rust, just a clean fresh break.
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Hey all, I'm new to the yamaha venture and so far the wife and I love the bike, the question I have is after doing the 600 mi. oil change using 15w-40w rotella the engine has some valve ticking on cold start up then goes away in about a minute. Is this a normal thing on this engine, or do I just have a valve set a little loose, oh yeah the bike is an 09. Thanks for the help.
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Just got my 2nd gen. Venture (2000 MM edition) and am disappointed in the engine whine at 60-65 mph. Please tell me there's a cure. I have a '97 Royal Star and I don't think that made such a whine.
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I have now had the opportunity to put a few miles on my (new to me) 2006 Venture with 1,500 milles. I am hearing a high pitched whine coming from the engine at higher RPMs or speed (above 50 mph and continuing). I believe it is coming from the engine as the sound disappears when I close the throttle or pull in the clutch lever. Can someone enlighten me as to what I am hearing? Do I have a problem is or is it new owner jitters. Thanks.
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OK, I tried out the Colortune yesterday, and I don't think I am impressed at all. My plan was to use the Colortune on one cylinder, then compare the CO % of that cylinder with the others using the exhaust gas analyzer. Since I cannot find any published specifications from Yamaha for the right CO level on this engine, that seemed like a good way to approach it. The problem is that the Colortune does not seem very specific. I could turn the fuel mixture screw a LONG way in either direction without seeing any change in the color of the flame. After turning it out a lot I did eventually see a yellowish flame as I should, and if I turned it in far enough I would eventually see it begin missing a lot (mostly just a weak spark), but there was a huge range between those two points where all the sparks looked the same. I eventually just turned it in to the ultra lean point, then turned it out just a bit past where the spark seemed to be regular without any missing. The interesting part was that when I compared this setting with the original position of the mixture screw, it was almost identical! Coincidence? I have no idea. One other problem that may have contributed to the lack of a clear setting was that the spark was constantly jumping from the top of the Colortune plug to the engine, potentially causing a lot of misfires that would affect what I could see. But since this engine seems to have a dual-fire ignition with a waste spark in every cycle, there is no way to be sure how many of those arcs were really causing a misfire. I was doing this inside my garage on an overcast day where I thought the light was about right to easily read the Colortune. In addition, I was working on the left rear cylinder where it was very easy to look right down on the plug and get a clear view of the spark without needing to use their mirror attachment. Finally, I purchased the 12mm Colortune specifically for this bike instead of the generic 14mm unit with a 12mm adapter. I am glad I did this now, since the 14mm with an adapter would have had the Colortune plug sitting much further out of the cylinder, and I would be wondering if maybe that was why I found it so inaccurate. I have not yet tried out the exhaust gas analyzer, but I'll let y'all know how that goes soon. In the mean time, I would be interested in any responses from others that have actually used the Colortune. What did you think? Goose
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I hadn't ridden my 83 VR for a couple weeks due to extreme temps outside. I checked the oil and it was fine, rode to the store with no problems, but got hit with a slew of LCD displays on the way home. The kickstand, brake, oil and headlight pictographs are all on constantly, and the red warning light flickers brighter the faster I rev. I got home and rechecked oil- ok. Lights all operate, charging system at around 14 when running, temp in the mid green, resevoir at proper level. Brake and clutch fluids all clean and full. Runs like a top but I'm worried it's gonna die on me or I will harm the engine. I checked it cold also and have same problem, even without starting the engine. When it runs thru the power-up checks, those LCDs just stay on. Could it be a bad ground in the LCD panel? I read a thread about the repair, but wasn't clear on the symptoms that prompted it. -
My 06 Midnite Venture quit on me this morning 5 miles out of Three Rivers, Michigan, and left me sitting on the side of the road for 20 minutes before it would start again. The same thing happened 10 days ago in Maryland. The symptoms: Cruising in 4th gear or so, the engine acts like it is starving for fuel (or that the kill switch has been hit - it wasn't) Coast to a stop, engine won't start. Yes I tried the kill switch, checked the pitcock - fuel flows from tank. No start. Yes, I hear the fuel pump when I turn the key. I have normal dash lights indicated. There's no smell of flooded engine. No leaks, no smoke, but no start. 20 minutes later (both times) the engine starts and runs normally. Since the incident in Maryland, I have put over a thousand miles on the bike (MD, VA, WV, OH, IN and now MI). The only weird thing today when it finally started was that I pulled the choke on and then off while starting and it suddenly fired up. When it did, it was more like an electrical connection being made than the choke clearing. There was no coughing and sputtering. No smoke, no smell. Engine ran fine to the motel in Niles where we are staying. Any ideas or suggestions before we hit the road Thursday heading South? Thanks for mulling it over. Lynn
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Bought this bike about a week and a half ago. It was a pathetic, ugly, dirty mess. The windshield was so swirly, I had to look over it on the way home. My wife and I spent about 30 hours disassembling, cleaning, waxing and reassembling. Took it for inspection and the mechanic was impressed at how complete the bike was; all the parts are there. I still have detailing to do on the engine, clutch cover, etc, but it's not too bad. It runs like a top- I call it The Cruise Missile. The more I ride it, the more I like it. Amazing how light all that weight can seem when in motion. http://i275.photobucket.com/albums/jj290/cyprinut/1985%20Venture%20Royale/finished2.jpg
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This so stupid I hate to even admit it. We on our first day of a two week tour up the east coast (FL to DC and back) , we stop for gas wait, I for the wife to get off. Next thing I know the bike has gone over and thrown me off like a bad hat. FORGOT to put the kickstand down before the wife got off , Just a couple of scatches on the engine guards and a hugely bruised ego.
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I am wanting to add some LED accent lights to my '89 VR. I have read through the threads, online searches etc. What I am looking for is ideas of where to place them. I know I want under carriage ground effects but also how to best show of the lines of the VR around the engine and front etc. I plan on taking out my damaged side panel vents and replacing with clear lexan and the light the engine. My bike is the pearl white version and want to go with blue. What other areas do others highlight? I have not found many pictures of other VRs. Also, recommendations on the LED types, wattage etc. Thanks. Gary
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On the way home from Daytona, the two red lights in the bottom corners started flickering. One is oil & the other is temp. They flicker at the same rate. When I turn the key on, every now and then the engine starts without the starter button being pressed and I have to rev it to get the starter to disingage. The lights flicker eradic and different brightness. They never blink unless in gear.A dealer service manager thought it might be a loose ground, but bumps don't effect the flickers. Some days this happens and some days it doesn't. I rode over a 1000 miles to get home and the engine is fine. I feel it may be a switch since I've proded, giggled, poked everything I can think of. I think it has to have the lights, starter and tranny in common. Any thing like this happen to anyone? Anyone have any ideas where to start? I'm afraid to get far from home. Thanks Richard
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Well, now that winter has gotten here and I need to think about getting some things done, I was wondering what others were planning on doing. I am going to need to do some transmission work as it feels like I have lost the détente action in my transmission. I still have the spring action that will bring the shifter back to the middle, but I am having a problem finding neutral and feeling when it clicks in any gear. Several times I have put it in 1st and it came back out. I have also had the same problem with 5th after shifting and with very little load, it would slip back out. I still have the other engine that has 30K miles on it that I put the 2002 Venture transmission in it, but it had some rust in one of the cylinders and I am not sure whether the engine is worth putting in. I just need to get motivated in getting something done. RandyA -
So...on my way into work this morning, I was accelerating (harder than normal in 3rd gear) to merge onto the highway. The engine responded quite well to the twist...but as it started to wind up, the engine appeared to gain more power...almost like another couple of carb jets opened up...the same kind of feeling you get when you accelerate faster than you let the clutch out. So that begs the question...WTH? The carbs are synch'd, and adjusted approx 3.5 turns out. Other than the above, the bike is running pretty good. Any suggestions on what to check? Sure seems like a carb / fuel delivery anomaly. :confused24:
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