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Showing results for tags 'element'.
Found 5 results
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As I've been going through bikes recently the prospect of spending $ 40 + dollars for a new air filter makes me squirm. Now I'm not the first person to do this, and a friend of mine did a little show and tell himself a few years back. While I was work one day I was inter-noodling and found that UNI-Filter ( makers of foam filters ) was only about 10 miles away from me. With a bit of snooping I found that UNI Filter sells a replacement filter for my bike for about $ 32. Being the KLR-like rider that I am I could buy a 12 x 16 inch sheet of UNI Filter foam for only $ 14.99 so that's what I did. I zipped out at lunch, and picked up some filter element The camera was handy so I figured I'd expend a little effort, and share my actions with you all. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534557_EgHYf-M.jpg Here's the filter element along with some required tools. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534521_MffM5-M.jpg Here's the dirty starting point. This is the air filter from my 88 Venture Royale. I only added the Royale in there because I like saying "Royale". It's about $ 45 to replace at the local Yamaha store. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534322_nconm-M.jpg http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534341_qoYLp-M.jpg I started hacking out the paper filter element with a pair of scissors, and box cutter. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534373_FL4WN-M.jpg I was being careful not to jack up the wire backing. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534393_8eoUd-M.jpg// That's a long hunk'o'paper. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534416_gM8Qo-M.jpg I then used needle nose pliers to pull out the sticky bits. Notice that foam sealing ring is also rotten. I'll pull that off, and replace it too. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534442_4coxT-M.jpg Here's the filter cage cleaned up and ready to start construction. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534489_CyTcQ-M.jpg I cut the filter element to fit. Make it a little thicker than needed so it'll bond better. No matter which way I cut it, it required two sections. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534585_cUgLM-M.jpg Before the next step where I was going to handle smelly, sticky stuff I had to start dinner. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534566_Nh9Sa-M.jpg While I was at UniFilter I asked the guy who was helping me what I should use to glue down the foam he recommended some brand of industrial glue, which I didn't have. He also mentioned that I could use silicone gasket sealer, and I had that so I was off to the races, and started laying a bead. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534603_kR69x-M.jpg Here it is stuck in place. I used a strip of packing tape over the joint and let it sit for the night. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534667_M4PqW-M.jpg After drying up for 24 hours I went back at it with the silicone to make doubly sure it's well mounted, because remember that in the future you'll be squeezing, and squishing this when you clean it. I stopped at LOWE's on the way home, and picked up some foam tape for $ 2.43. http://greenagain.smugmug.com/photos/587534743_RKz2P-M.jpg It's ready to use, and I still have over half of the filter foam left to use on another bike or two. :thumb
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Ok and plumber's out there? I have a hot water heater that is 4 years old. Its a 2 element unit. that is not heating. I have checked and the breaker is Ok and I have 120 volts on both sides of each element. I have replaced the upper element ( I was told this is the heating element and the bottom element was for keeping the water warm.) I turned up both thermostats to max and still no heat. any suggestions ?????? Cold showers were great when you were 16 but not so good when your 60 LOL
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I've read a number of posts on the VR airbox but don't remember much on the square "stack" in the middle of the filter element. What's its purpose - mainly intake noise abatement perhaps? Has anybody removed or shortened it? Its top edge, stock, is between 1/2" and 3/4" from the underside of the filter element. Any results to report? I know the box is very sensitve to having the top on, and some people like to have some 1/2" holes in the top. But this stack looks like a "flow torture device" to me! Jeremy
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I blew a couple of fuses which go to the radiator fan over the course of three weeks or so. I came up with some time to investigate the reason for blowing these fuses, and I also had a new package of assorted fuses. A fuse is a fuse right? I found them while visiting one of those cheap Chinese tool establishments. A whole package of 20 fuses for just a couple of bucks! Anyway, I plugged a fresh new 10 amp in, turned on the key and proceeded into my shop to retrieve my meter to do a little resistance checking. As I turned and walked toward my sweet '86 now parked in the driveway, I saw a mushroom shaped plume of smoke rising from my bike. I screamed to my bike, turned off the ignition and looked to see if I needed to grab a water hose. The smoke cleared and it was evident whatever was burning had stopped. First thing I checked was the fresh new fuse I had just installed. The freakin' plastic surrounding the element was melted away but the metal element was as good as new. Heck, I could've looped a piece of clothes hanger and got that result! Anyway, after tearing apart the wiring harness, replacing all the fried wiring which was now just strands of charred copper and melted insulation, I went to NAPA and bought good fuses. It's been three weeks with no new burned fuses and the fan works great. Lesson learned. Maybe this post will save you from the same experience.
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I've seen some posts dissing the Supertech oil filter, so I decided to tear a new one apart for my own peace of mind. What I found was a surprisingly good filter for the $2.29 you pay at Walmart. This filter has all of the right parts in a well made package. See the pictures below for details. What you get for you money: A good anti-drain back valve. This is important in our bikes for two reasons: one, the filter is mounted horizontally. If the anti-drain back valve fails then dirty oil can leak back into the crankcase. Second, if the oil drains out of the filter then the engine oil pump has to fill the filter before it starts pumping oil to the engine at startup. The anti-drain back valve in the ST7317 was well made of a flexible nitrile material. The paper filter element had 43 pleats that were evenly distributed, except where the seam was. This gives about 86 square inches of filter material. For a comparison to other filters check out this link http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Filters.html#OilFilters The top and bottom of the filter element are metal. The filter element was sealed and glued at both ends. I've heard some manufacturers use a paper end on the filter element. I guess this is OK if you have a good bypass valve arrangement. This filter needs the metal end for the bypass valve to seal to. The filter I opened had a very normal coil spring bypass valve on the top of the filter element. This is more than adequate to protect your engine from lack of lubrication in the event of a clogged filter. By the way, if this feature gets used frequently in your oil filter you need to either let your bike warm up longer before you redline it, or change your oil more often. The filter gasket was smooth with no defects.So here is my challenge: if you have a different filter you like, tear it up and post some pictures. Lets see how they stack up.
