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Found 20 results
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Look like they are going to attempt it again at 8:45 MT. http://www.redbullstratos.com/
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My rear tire has worn out, no big deal there. However, on the edges beyond the almost bald center the remaining tread has a patter worn with the leading edge of the tread being higher than the trailing edge. I noticed that I was getting noise in cornering that got louder as the tire wore down. Overall, not a big deal but I am wondering if this is an indication that my rear shock is starting to misbehave. I see no signs of leakage and with 40 psi in the shock, the bike handles okay. Any advice would be appreciated. R. -
I posted this else where and thought this might help someone else to. So copy and paste and add a little and here it is. I like doing my own, I know it is done to suit me. I changed my rear tire today. Here is how; http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=555 #1. Mark the axle position at the side with the pinch bolt line, make a line with the corner edge of a flat file and you will always have it there. Remove the rear wheel. The axle will come out easily if you turn the axle at the Allen head side (rotor side) and pull at the same time. #2. Take the valve out of the tire. Mark the valve placement with the tire location on the old tire and the new tire for location. Make sure you get the tire on in the correct rotational direction. Motorcycle tires are rotational oriented. They have arrows showing the direction of travel. If you have tires that have the balance dot, then if this is the case, the balance dot should line up with the valve and supposed to be balanced. #3. Put the wheel on some small pieces of 2" X 4" or 4" X 4" works best, one on each side of rim in a place that you can back a pick up or some vehicle up to it. #4. I used a 8' long 4"x4" and a 8" inch piece of 4"x4' to put onto the tire edge close the rim, 1/2" or so on tire edge and from the rim. Back a vehicle up to the tire location. I used a pick up with a ball hitch on it and pried under the ball mount stinger. There are tools made for this, but I do not have one yet. I am thinking of adding something to the side of my garage wall and have a friend weld me up a tool for this. #5. Put the long 4"x4" on top the short piece of 4"x4" and under the vehicle/hitch,bumper or what ever to get leverage. #6. Pry down and the tire will brake loose from the rim fairly easy on the first or second try. #7. I use a cheap set of tire irons from JC Whitney. They are 12" long and come with rim covers to keep from damaging your rim. Two sets are nice to have. Only about 10 -14 dollars a set. Remove the tire while the rim is still on the 4"x4" short pieces you laid your rim on. ( The back side is a little tricky, but will come off. I laid my tire with the brake rotor down for this part.) #8. Once you have the tire removed, use a fine wire brush to remove any black junk from the inside rim edge and inside the rim. I used a copper pipe cleaning tool. Then I used WD 40 & PB Blaster to spray on a cloth and wipe the inside of my rim. Cleans it very well after you brush the rim edge and rim on both sides. If you have a plastic 50 gallon barrel, it works great for a bench to work on the new tire and rim. #9. Now orient your tire in the correct direction of travel according to the arrows on the tire and your rim direction of forward travel. #10. Have your self some dish liquid from the kitchen (or regular tire liquid from auto store) to put on the tire edge and the rim edge. Only put the liquid on one side of the tire at a time. Start the tire on and apply pressure to a point that you will need to put the rim protectors on the rim and begin prying the tire on. Only 2-3 inches at a time. Just takes a 3-4 minutes and if you cleaned your rim and lubricated the tire and rim, no problem at all. I can put the front tire on with my bare hands and no tools. #11. Now that you have the tire on, very important to align the tire in the corect spot according to your marks or dot on the tire. Pay close attention to this as you proceed to the next step. #12. Have yourself a small ratchet strap. Put the strap on the tire in the center of the tire and cinch it up tight. Also align the tire edge and rim together as you do this. Pay attention to the markings to keep the tire in the right position. #13. Replace the air valve in the rim. Air the tire and see if it will take air, if not check for problem spot and fix it. Make sure tire is in right position. Make sure you get enough air in the tire to get it to pop onto the rim all the way (watch the fingers !). Check the rim once you hear the pop and make sure it is properly attached all the way around. If not add more air until it is. Set at proper air pressure, factory says 42 rear and 36 front. I personally go a little more because I weigh 278 lb. #14. Now clean and follow these instructions before putting the tire and wheel back on.http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=13263 AND http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1705 #15. Check air pressure again and put the tire and wheel back on. Put the axle in at the mark you made and align all completely. A real good tech section on putting the wheel back on correctly is http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=515 AND http://venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=4660 Pay special attention to properly aligning the axle to the mark you made, filed my mark into the pinch bolt line, tightening the acorn nuts and aligning the wheel and dive link properly and getting the drive shaft aligned and inside the yoke. Not sure if there is a good tire removing thread in the Tech Library. I never found one with all the information in one place. Had to skip around. So if this works then ask Freebird to put it in there. He usually will not, unless asked and there is not already an existing write up. I am not sure about that. I have been wrong before, just ask my wife. Someone else may see something I missed to, so please jump in if so. Will not hurt my feelings at all. Just trying to help out and give back to the site that has helped me so much. Thanks all. Fuzzy
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According to the Star website, the 2013 lineup announcement will be Sept. 12 at 12pm eastern. Don't fall off the edge of your chair before then.......
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I'm out for a spin yesterday and lovin' the warm weather and country back roads. And I notice this happening a few times during the ride. Starting out from an intersection, turning right or left, clear road (no sand, gravel, road kill) the rear tire slips its grip. Just a little, but noticeable. I'm not what you would call a hard rider. You won't find me scrapping pegs on turns. So I'm thinking because I don't use the outside edge of the tire except maybe on turns from intersections, the grip is lost due to lack of use. My question is: Would it be a good idea to rough up the outside edge of the tire with sand paper to get the rubber to grip better? Has anyone tried this or had experience with it? I just figure that it sounds logical. Of course, I watched the Leafs this year. Don't know why. Thomas
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Has anyone installed one of these Shield Edge Trimming? http://www.saeng.com/product.php?id=581&category=80
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Hello. I still am trying to get a loan on a RSV so yes...I still dont have one. I need to know what the distance is between the idiot light panels next to the cassette door. I am thinking of modifying the cassette hole and need a measurement from the right edge of the left window to the left edge of the right window. i am thinking of installing a FUSION MS-RA200 marine radio in the cassette hole and eliminating all the Clarion electronics. Please let me know if you can. Thank you.
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Hey, Thanks to a little low speed OOPS on a wet curve at the entrance to my subdivision yesterday, I now have a bit more road rash on the bike. All seems ok for the most part, but the farring plastic at the starboard edge, outboard of the speaker grill, has suffered the most. Seems to me I recenlty saw an old online Markland catalogue somewhere. If I remember right there were some chrome caps that fit onto that edge that would likely neatly cover up my bit of damage. I have never seen a set of these in person or on ebay, despite years of browsing, so I conclude that I'm not likely to find a set of these in this lifetime. Strikes me though that this edge is quite vulnerable and damage there must be fairly common, even if the bike never leaves the vertical plane. What do others do to either protect against or cover up road rash on this edge? Thanks, Brian
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Hi again everyone. Need some help. Im replacing my rear tyre on my 2nd Gen. 1999 RSV. Made a note of everything except the way that the hub dust seal #8 on enclosed diag fits. Is it the flat side to wheel and indented or slotted face to outside edge. or. Flat side to out side edge and indented or slotted face to the wheel?????? (Cant think of a better word to discribe the two seal faces). The flat side has a rim around the middle but is for all intense and purposes flat. Thanks. Neil. (Old Miner).
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Hi Guys. Ive been through all the connectors on my ventures audio but still no sound , ive done the obvious made sure its on sp rather than hs . But still good , has anyone got any ideas before i try and source another unit ? Many Thanks Edge
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The little box with all the info. Time left in game, what down, yards to go, score and all that. It only shows on the edge of my screen. Can only see about a third of it. WHY??
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Hi all, I have a 2000 venture with a couple small dents in the tank. How they got there is beyond me? The first dent is about 1" away from the center black strip edge running down the middle of the tank. The second small dent is about 2" away from the center strip edge. The dents are located on the right hand side of the tank maybe 10" up from the seat. My questions are, is there a bib available? or would a tank bib from a tour deluxe work? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks -
This post is about a subject that started on the diamond cut thread, and rather than hi-jacking the thread I thought it would be better to start another. I picked up a spare set of 2ndGen head fins with the idea that I might paint them black for a different look. After seeing the diamond cut examples I decided to go another direction. #1 because I'm not sold on the Diamond look, and #2 I'm broke... So this morning I stopped by my local auto paint supplier and picked up a roll of 1/8" Fine-Line masking tape, I then dropped by BriteTex, my favorite polisher, and discussed some options. We came up with some great ideas. Like grinding the fin edge flat, and buffing it to a mirror gloss.... and just buffing the edge out. Both options were over 100 bucks... too expensive So I decided to just go ahead and try taping the existing edge finish and see what happens. I also decided to do only one fin and then do the rest if the first one worked out. Attached is a running pictorial of what I did. There were some mistakes made that can be corrected on later efforts, but at 65mph they shouldn't be noticable. The over all look on the bike will happen a little later on, and I'll post pics of the finished product then. Cost.... $37 bucks for the fins, $9 bucks for the tape, and 10 bucks for a couple of cans of paint. $56 dollars total. I kinda like the look so far.
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Eased my bike down on some gravels (dropped it). Dinged the bottom edge of my right saddlebag. Do they make chrome strips for the bottom edge of saddlebags that I could use on both sides to hide the ding. I know I could have someone repair it, but the chrome might look good in my effort to make the bike look retro. Any suggestions? Thanks!
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I know, this has probably been addressed on one or more of these umpteen thousand threads, but I've been reading posts here for the last 7 hours and figured I'd just come out and ask... There is apparently three(?) methods to measure your windshield. #1. The Clearview way (from dip in front of gas cap vertical). #2. From bottom edge of windshield to top edge. #3. from top edge of chrome strip to top edge of windshield(mounted). Now this has become confusing to me when I read all the posts about personal preferences in windshield heights and retailer descriptions of product. What my 08 RSV came with measures 22" (#1. above), 17" (#3. above). I don't have a measurement for #2. above since the shield is still mounted. So,,,, is this a 'stock' windshield? My intention is to procure a shorter windshield to be able to see over the top when needed. In which case the msrmnts would be; 18" (#1. above) or 11" (#3. above). Of course that's solo, when two-up the line of site thru the shield drops about an inch or so. Am considering the Showchrome 13", is that 13" #1,2,or 3 method?? Where does "4 inches shorter than stock" fit in here? It sure would be nice if there was only ([{ 1 )]} standard used. Can ya help a brother out, huh, can ya? ;-)
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While we were camping up at Mohican State Forest area by Loudonville Ohio last weekend, the wife and I went out for a quick 1 hour ride Saturday morning. Went into town, filled the tank and went to return to camp. Was going to take a different route and missed the turn so we went further to find a driveway to turn around in. Car behind us was a little close, so I turned into an unfamiliar driveway a little too quick and hit the brakes, just happened to get along the edge of the asphalt and gravel, hit a little loop in the asphalt, off camber to the right dropping away. Went to put the foot down and figured it was too far! Already passed the point of no return, I just let her down easy, the wife wasn't as easy as she took a bit of a tumble (now she knows why I don't want her riding in sandals!), she stubbed her knee on the gravel but is alright. Nothing on the bike but a little scratch on the right rar guard bar down low, tweaked the chrome bumper leading edge just a bit. Nothing hurt more than our pride. Oh well, another donation to the can! Dan
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I would like some advice from someone who has cut down his windshield and was happy with the result. I would like to know; * What kind of saw did you use? I assume a hand held electric jig saw. * What type of blade is best? * How did you mark the line? Tape? * Did you have to do finish work on the new edge and what did you use? My wind screen is a lot higher now that I have new Progressive fork springs, so I need to take about 4 inches off. Thanks
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And they say bikers take chances..........but not like this..........this is suicidal.................... In Zimbabwe , Africa, you will find the magnificent Victoria Falls , at a height of 128m. The location is known as the 'Devil's Swimming Pool'. During the months of September and December, people can swim as close as possible to the edge of the falls without falling over. These falls are becoming well known amongst the 'radical tourist' industry, when more and more people search for the ultimate experience. Would you dare?
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I have the sears M/C jack theres a lota stuff under there to rock on and i seem to remember something about mounting 2x4s on the runners of this jack witch way do they mount down each runner or across from one to the other in two places or in block form @each corner? and do they go on edge or flat and thanks for all the help that is about to come oh! this is for a 2nd gen
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I JUST RECEIVED THE OVER SIZE MIRRORS FOR THE RSV FROM E-BAY ITEM NUMBER IS 320163805535 THEY ARE VERY CHEAP,CHEAP,CHEAP I THOUGHT THEY WOULD BE NICE BUT THEY ARE MADE OF PLASTIC AND THE MIRROR IS CUT SMALL AND YOU CAN SEE THE EDGE UNDER WHERE IT IS MOUNTED UNDER THE RUBBER AND LOOKS LIKE IT IS SPIDERED AROUND THE EDGES. THIS WAS MY 2 CENTS ABOUT THEM, YOU DECIDE. STAR4772 JOE THE SAYING GOES YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR. THIS IS WHAT I SENT THEM: Dear thecycleking,I had just received my mirrors and I must say I am very dissappointed in them. The reason why is because they are plastic and not metal and also the workmanship is bad. You can see the edge of the mirror under rubber mounting and it looks bad. I dont know if I got a bad set or this is the way they are but I am not happy. My question is what can we do about this. I dont feel I should be charged a 20% restocking fee for a bad product. Please advise. Thanks Joe
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