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I was checking the general tech section... and saw a rather routine sounding "trick" for we height challenged riders... lower the front forks by 1"... but it was adressed to the 2nd gen... They simply loosen the triple tree clamps (after removing tons of stuff to get there) and slide the fork tubes up and tighten her back down. Anybody done this on a 1st gen? Clearance issues? I sure hope it's that easy... it would be a wonderful help to my bike leaning SO far over on the side stand after upgrading to progressive front springs! And yeah, I'm a little low at the inseam.
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Hey y'all, I found an easy way to use that white aux power plug located just behind the battery on the left side. Even though the cap does not have the necessary pins in it to make a connection, the pin retaining clips work somewhat like wire clamps. I just stripped the ends from some 18 gauge zip cord and tinned it, then used hemostats (or small needle nose pliers) to insert the wire into the contacts in the bottom plug - they fit very snugly after tinning. Here are a couple of pictures - not the best, but you should be able to see what I am talking about: [ATTACH]16155[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]16154[/ATTACH] Just make sure you insert the wires into the metal contacts in the plug, not the empty spot next to them where the retaining clips are (I think that the second picture actually shows me holding the wires in the wrong hole)! The way the plug cap is designed, the wires are protected from accidentally touching once the cap is put back in place. Also, remember that this plug is only on a 5 amp fuse (located behind the right front cowling). Good luck, Goose -
New here but I was told by a friend that this is the place to come to if you needed information about the Venture. I'm not sure if this is the right forum for this question or if it's been asked but hey, like I said, I'm a newbie here. I just bought an '09 Royal Star Venture S. My question to you riders is, does anyone know somewhere I can pick up an after-market driver's back rest? One that is easy to install, able to fold down to allow a passenger easy access to the back seat and perhaps even removable for simple, every day local riding. My back ain't what it used to be and I'm looking for something for long distance riding. Any help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance....... Bluez
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I have a 2007 Venture & just installed a centerstand. All was well until I scraped the centerstand on a driveway curb. I noticed that the stand was hitting the Emissions Valve, so it wasn't up all the way. I tried to relocate the E valve per the Rivco directions. No luck, the directions seem easy enough, pull the bracket off and mount it backwards. It didn't move the E Valve far enough to allow the centerstand to not contact it. I was thinking of drilling new mounting holes higher up on the frame. Any ideas?
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At the risk of boring redundancy with other threads, I thought I'd post my experience with the PCW clutch spring upgrade in my 05 QuickSilver. The bike has about 40,000 miles on it, and I thought I had been noticing just a bit of clutch slippage on hard acceleration and quick gear shifts. The problem was absolutely confirmed while we were riding back up from Corpus Christi last week and I did a 5th gear roll-on around 80 to pass - wasn't really getting anywhere like I expected, but a quick glance down at the tach showed the engine did pick up speed pretty quick! Ooops, had to take the passing pretty easy for the rest of the ride home. I called PCW to order the spring "kit", and they tried gently to talk me into ordering all new clutch plates too. I demurred and said "just the spring." I did ask them for info about why they wanted to replace the inside special half disk and wave washer with a full disk - why did they think that was better than the original design? The explanation kind of made sense that Yamaha had been extra careful for the wussy American market to design a clutch that was easy to pull and would always engage without any snatch or jerk. Since I don't consider myself a wuss, I decided to go ahead and replace it with the full size plate like they suggest. The kit consists of just the new thicker PCW spring, one stock Yamaha friction plate, and one stock Yamaha gasket. Just like others have reported, the instructions were easy to follow and the job was done quickly and without incident. I did take the opportunity to measure the thickness of my existing clutch plates to check for wear, and found that they were well withing stock tolerance (actually just a bit thicker than the new plate that came with the kit). This matched my expectations, since there is no way a wet clutch should be worn out in 40,000 miles! It is tempting to blame the slipping on the oil I was using, but since it was old-stock Mobile1 red-top, changed only 1,000 miles ago, that doesn't really make sense either. I guess it was just the wussy stock clutch spring. Anyway, I am very happy with the new spring - just a bit more tension noticeable in the hand, but not enough to bother anyone, I think. It does engage a tad bit further out, but that was a very minor change. I have not noticed any jerkiness or change in the smoothness of the engagement from going to the new full sized plate in the inside of the stack. For anyone who does a lot of riding, I would strongly recommend this spring kit now, even before you notice any clutch slipping. It is quite reasonably priced, easy to do, and will probably prevent your ever having any clutch problems for the life of your bike. Goose
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Stator went out on my awhile back so I have to replace it, got down to the bolt that holds the retaining cover for the stator wire going out of the case and snap off came the head. So I think ok I will drill it and use and easy out nope broke the stupid easy out in the middle of the bolt. I had thought about drilling to the side of it, tapping it and putting in a smaller bolt but I guess I really should just get a new side cover. Any thoughts , ideas or just plain jabs for my stupidity are Welcome. I am hoping I can find someone parting out an engine or has replaced one because it was scratched for cheap. Looks like a new one cost around 300 bucks. -
Part One: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73786 In part one, linked above, we looked briefly at the motivation one might have for getting involved in "longer than your average ride". Self-satisfaction, friendly rivalry, exploring your own limits ... fun! They all play a part. However, remember back when you learned to ride? If it went smoothly for you, it is likely that before you learned how to make a motorcycle go forwards, you were first shown how to stop it. Logical really. Cover the clutch at all times. The minute you are unsure, pull in the clutch and start to brake. Sure you develop from that with experience, but knowing when to stop is just as important to LD Riders as it is to those taking their first tentative steps on two wheels. There is no shame in abandoning an attempted ride. There is nothing wrong with realising that what you might be attempting is not within your grasp this time. Your wife and family want you home, safe and sound and in a position to try again at some future time. When you abandon a ride, you do not "fail" ... you simply learn one way that it cannot be completed. More than that, you demonstrate a maturity of judgement that you can be rightly proud of because you just demonstrated your ability to ride safely, even when every instinct was screaming disappointment. I am not speaking theoretically. This year I have failed to finish a rally (DNF) when I simply considered it unsafe to continue. I tried ... I even tried to get two hours sleep and maybe that would help. It didn't help, but six hours sleep helped enormously and I safely rode the 500 miles home next day. Equally, I abandoned an BBG attempt (1500 miles in 24 hours) when the time slipped so badly that completing the ride would have required speeds I was simply not prepared to ride at ... even on the Interstate. I did complete 1700+ miles in 32 hours, which is a different Certificate. Sure I was disappointed yet I am still alive, still happy and I am now better placed to make future attempts because I know what I have to do, and how to accomplish it. These things are not easy. If they were easy no one would bother. We do it because it is a very hard thing to do. That is the point. Knowing when to stop is not easy. It is very easy to stop because you want to stop. I always want to stop My hips cramp up after about 700 miles. My back and shoulders sometimes ache a bit (I'm working on that). I want to chat to my wife, have a meal, a drink, a cigarette. I'd give anything to stop. That isn't the "stopping" I am talking about. I am talking about knowing when to stop because to continue would be unsafe. You have reached the threshold below which you are not comfortable continuing. This differs for all of us. Our thresholds vary and what we must do is work out when our bodies, or riding is telling us that fatigue is beginning to negatively affect performance. Remember this is an endurance event, so you do actually have to "endure". That is a hard thing to do but it only becomes an unsafe thing to do if we ignore the signs. So what are they? Well the Iron Butt Association has a very handy "Archive of Wisdom" which lists 28 tips from Iron Butt Rally finishers. Number 12 says: "As soon as you are tempted to close an eye, even "for just a second", find the nearest safe place to pull over and take nap! Other symptoms to watch for: Inability to maintain a desired speed. If you find yourself slowing down and constantly having to speed back up, you are ready to fall asleep! Forgetting to turn high beams down for oncoming traffic. Indecision. Can't decide to stop for gas or continue? Can't decide what turn to take? These are all a result of fatigue." You generally wouldn't start with a BBG attempt, or any of the other extreme rides. Indeed the IBA will not ratify such a ride unless you have first completed one of the easier ones. I use the term "easier" advisedly. So start shorter. Develop the techniques and self-knowledge that will stand you in good stead when the pressure is really on. Learn for yourself the signs you should NEVER ignore. Don't think that because you are fatigued and need to stop that you cannot complete the task. Sometimes pulling into a rest area and grabbing 30 minutes sleep on a park bench, or even on your motorcycle is quite sufficient for you to safely continue. But if you must stop, then you owe it to yourself, your loved ones and other road users to stop immediately. You will gain a great deal from taking this point on board. Inappropriate speed kills. All Iron Butt Rides can be completed within the posted speed limits. You just have to be savvy about route planning for some of them is all. Riding much quicker than the prevailing traffic is tiring; riding faster than the prevailing conditions permit is downright dangerous. When you are out trying for that first SS1000, or bonus hunting on a Rally, you are simply a road user. You are not special, nor are you doing anything that has a special dispensation to play fast and loose with the laws. Do it too often and the local Sheriff will no doubt remind you The real key to covering the distance is to prepare your mind and body, to prepare your motorcycle and to plan an efficient route .... THEN KEEP THE WHEELS TURNING! The example I gave the other day was to imagine you are out riding with a buddy. You are cruising the interstate at a steady 60 mph. You stop for 10 minutes and he continues. It will take you ONE HOUR at 70 mph to catch him. You can easily see how this can work against you and it is why I have struggled to develop a routine that means I can gas up the bike in 3 1/2 minutes, ramp to ramp, if I need to. Generally I don't actually need to, but I practised just in case. Have at the safety aspects in the thread. Thjs stuff is important and we need to hammer it out before we move on to the mechanics of how we bring this all together for a successful ride. Part Three: http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74050 -
I was on you tube looking for music and I thought of the movie easy rider that I saw when I was a senior in high school. I accidentally found a video that is so cool. If you go to you tube and type in "Henryk Rynkowski Easy Rider" you will see the video. It starts out with a harley davidson starting and then you see Peter Fonda and Dennis Hopper riding in the movie. I think Henryk Rynkowski is polish and the writing on the video is in polish. My question is does anyone know how I might could get this music. I sure would love to have this song on my mp3.
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Anybody ever have or raise a rat terrier? This may be one of the greatest challenges I have ever taken on. Full of energy and smart as a whip. I am a labrador type guy. I like easy dogs to train. This one aint easy. This one has a tendancy to nip. Not a bite yet. The growl comes before the nip. 8 months old. I never hit a dog. the voice should command the dog. This one must have missed that day in school. Here is some history on the devil spawn. We got him at 8 weeks from the APL. His tail was docked. He chewed on me from the get go. He is chewing less from verbal repercussions. I think he got pulled from mom too early. He is so smart. Just bad. This pup will be a challenge.
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well i ordered a tci they shipped it today. i read that gm map sensors will work with it. the one mentioned was 89.00 here. I found one for 39.99 fits buick and chevy its a master pro 2-ms21 from o-o you know the rest. had to put a adapter on hose to use the dorman47311 looks and sound like a straight forward conversion. hope the computer program is easy. the display on laptop looks like modern salt spreader programing {same format}. now the waiting game. ps. i asked for 3 terminals or part numbers to source locally.
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[ame] [/ame] I hope the link works as I really don't know what I'm doing!!! Got these as a temporary sound fix!!! Really pleased with easy fitment & sound till my Bub's arrive. Highway Hawk universal slip ons.
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The only bit of my bike I don't really like is the Yamaha badge on the trunk. I'd like to remove it & perhaps fit a chrome handle. Has anyone done this? Wondering if it's easy to do, is it held on with lugs, stuck on, will it leave a mark, etc. cheers if you can help.
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Just ordered some OEM driving lights. Now I gotta figure out a switch. What I would love is something reservoir mounted that included a toggle switch and a couple of USBs. I can't find that but I found this. It would be easy to get to and discreet. Anybody have any other suggestions? http://www.cruisercustomizing.com/bikers-choice-oval-mini-push-button-handlebar-switch-kit-for-1-inch-diameter-bars-chrome-each/part/BC-370268?action=fitment
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Happy Birthday Mike. Not sure why your birthday is not listed today, but hope you have a wonderful birthday. Hope you get to take it easy, maybe go for a ride, rest up (you have ALOT of candles to blow out!!) Don says you are definitely getting older! So you better start taking it easy. You know, take naps...frequently...lol. Have a good day Patti and Don :Happy Birthday::beer:
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Since I just picked up this 85 Royale I have a question regarding the "intercom". The intercom shows on the audio controls but I do not see any plugs for it for the head gear. Is there any easy way to tap in, or for that matter to actually know if they bike is equipped with an intercom system? newbie thanks you Scott
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Just took me about 45 minutes to hand dismount and mount car tire, pressure maybe got to 50. Took a drill with wire brush and smoothed out and cleaned rim. Got some real slimey goop from tire shop and went very easy. Now hard part getting them balanced and put back on, then ride it like it was stolen.
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I replaced that mess that used to be my fuse box on the 83. It sure was easy, the kit is well put together and very easy to install with Skydoc's instructions........... I couldnt wait to turn the key on and see the electrical system come back to life...............nothing happened, I checked all the wiring again, did exactly as he stated in the instructions...........everything is right. Thought maybe the battery was dead so I hooked the charger up to it and then tried the key again...........nothing. Stood there scratching my head, then the light went on...........You gotta put fuses in it before it will work.:bang head:............man did I feel like a total idiot.:doh:.........gotta pick up the fuses today on the way home from work.
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I bought a water proof case for my GPS to mount on my handlebar studs (Snagglestuds! Shameless I know). Clamp mount works good, case fits fine, BUT the slip connection is not a lock type that snaps on, just friction. Now I'm not a fan of grabbing at things as they come loose. So some sort of lanyard was going to be needed to be fashioned in case, just in case that puppy popped off. I was at the store today and I passed one of those bargin bins that had a bunch of those stretchy straps with the slider that slip over the ends of the ear pieces of your glasses to hang them around your neck for .50 cents. Well the light popped on. Back at the house it took all of ten mintues for fix it up is it's easy on - easy off. The slip connection don't work loose anymore. A stretchy strap A couple of small key rings A couple of zip tie stick-on zip tie mounts and it was done. Under a couple bucks for a little extra secuity for the toys you paid good money for. Mike
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Before I got my VR, it had sat for a very long time and had gunk all over it. Last night I decided to put the windshield back on but first had to clean it. I took it in the house and put it in the bathtub (the wife was proud of me:whistling:) and thought it would be a easy job. After some gentle cleaning with mild soap, I still had a film on it. I am pretty sure it is tree sap. Is there an easy way of cleaning it that won't damage it. I've tried dish washing liquid. I know windex isn't recomended but I tried it on a small area but it didn't help either. I am able to scrape off with my finger nail so I know it should come off. Any ideas? The seat also is covered with what is probably sap, although, it actually looks like tar.
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Venture MP3, the same company that made the Mp3 player for the newer ventures has just put together an easy to use and install Bluetooth/Mp3 player for our 83-93 ventures. I dont know these guys and have nothing to do with them, but thought I should post it for anyone that wants an easy upgrade, I am ordering one soon, info is below. He does have special prices for anyone wanting to order in quantities, just send an email for pricing. Here is Video with Nacho from the Venturer site. ONLY CENTRAL UNIT (SINGLES ORDERS) Cost: 49 USD Delivery signed-for: 20 USD 4,5% Paypal fees: 3,11 USD Total: 72,11 USD FULL KIT (SINGLE ORDERS) Central Unit, Bluetooth Receiver, Male/male 3,5mm Jack Cost: 77 USD Delivery signed-for: 20 USD 4,5% Paypal fees: 4,37 USD Total: 101,37 USD ONLY CENTRAL UN) CoIT (SINGLES ORDERS) Cost: 49 USD Delivery signed-for: 20 USD 4,5% Paypal fees: 3,11 USD Total: 72,11 USD For order, please send an email to info@venturemp3.com (this is the same VentureMp Interface that did the units to replace the cd player in the Newer ventures. It looks like a nice easy fix for our older machines.
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Does anyone have some pictures of the Barons tachometer mounted on the master cylinder cover of their bike? I'm going to be purchasing a tach and wanted to see what this set up looks like prior to purchasing. Also, what are you thoughts on it? Does it do everything you want it to? Does it look nice? Was the installation easy? Thoughts please? Thanks, Les
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I have been a member here a short time but have to give kudos where they are due. I did the PCW clutch kit to my 1999 and you all made it easy! Thanks for a great site and I would have never tore into the cluch without you all. Thanks Carl
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Numbers that I can relate to. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Li0no7O9zmE&feature=share]DEBT LIMIT - A GUIDE TO AMERICAN FEDERAL DEBT MADE EASY.[/ame] www.youtube.com
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Arrrrgggggg........ So last night I get home from work and hear the furnace start up. Well I really could not help but to hear it since it sounded just like a jet engine at takeoff power. So I jumps up off the couch and run for the basement expecting the worst. Open up the covers on the furnace to see what is going on and the draft blower is jumping all over the place. All 3 mounting legs have broken off the housing and it is shaking violently. So I hit the power switch on the side of the furnace and low and behold it quieted right down. Who da thunk it? I thought well I can live with this noise level but all of the girls in the house might not like the cold. So I grab some tools and dive in. It was really easy to get the blower out, just 2 hose clamps and 7 wires that even had quick connects on them. Easy always scares me. All wires nicely color coded to know where they go back on. Now with the blower out of the way it was really easy to get to the mounting feet to remove them from the furnace. Off to the work bench. well first I have to push stuff around to clear a spot to make a new mess in. First thing was to power up the motor to see if it sounds ok. To steal a quote from the amateur plumbers, "HELL NO". It is vibrating so bad that I can not hold on to it. Well that explains why the mounting feet are broken off and the sheet metal was amplifying the vibrations to make all of the racket. So time to disassemble. There are 6 spring clips holding the blower assy together. They came off rather easily, another warning sign. nothing can ever be easy. Once I get the thing open the problem is obvious, the plastic blower wheel is missing a couple of vanes on one side and has snapped off the center part that attaches it to the motor shaft and the back side is all melted from rubbing on the housing. There is even a part number on the blower wheel, so I head for the puter to find that part, it is just a piece of plastic, how much can that be? HA!!! You can not buy that piece of plastic anywhere. You have to get the whole blower assy, every place that lists the blower assy has a note under it that says "NO BLOWER PARTS ARE AVAILABLE" So they must know that this cheap piece of plastic fails but know that they can hit you up for a whole blower. So I do a bunch of searching on line for the best price and cool, the best price is even here in town, so I go to the check out page and then POW, right in the kisser, Even though the place is only 5 miles from my house, they still want me to order it and have it shipped. But they do have a retail outlet. Get ready. Are you sitting? Here it comes........... There is a $150 counter fee:scared: Well since we are supposed to drop to sub zero tonight I had to do something so I glued the mounting feet back onto the housing and glued all of the pieces of the blower wheel back together as best I can. I even tried to balance the darn thing to get it into the ballpark. put the blower back together on the bench and fire it up. well there is still some vibration but not to bad, so I reinstall it into the furnace. It made it thru the night but I do not expect it to last very long. So I am sitting at my desk stewing about that $150 counter fee and waiting for all of the parts houses in town to open up to see if I can find the part local at a place that actually wants me to come and pick it up. I even thought I found one on Craigslist for $50, new prices are from $300-$700, in New London. New London is only 150 miles away. and my brother lives about 15 miles from there. COOL. NOT, wrong New London, it is in New London Minnesota not New London Wisconsin. That is to far to drive for the part, it would not save any time or money. OK Rant / whine over. Stores are opening up now.:mo money: Dang, did I type all of that????
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I need a little help! My bike won't start. I just finished working on my turn signals (the cancellation unit connection was loose and dirty) started her up and was getting ready for a little drive with the working turn signals, but first stopped by work to get something (about 2 minutes away). Went in and came back out and would not start. The power comes on and accessories and but there is nothing at all when I hit the starter...nothing. I have tried the following.... Checked kill switch (many times) Trying with kickstand up and down... clutch in and out...etc. Jumped the kickstand shutoff switch check fuses What other things should I check? It is sitting in a parking lot, so easy stuff first is best. Is there an easy way to check the starter switch? Is there a way to bypass the switch to get the bike started so I can get it home to the garage? Any advice is welcome
