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Showing results for tags 'drive'.
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everybody that lives in the hill country of texas knows these roads, they are called the three sisters, 335, 336, 337, people drive down from colorado to drive on these three roads. ( imagine that ) not only are they great roads, lots of twists and turns, but some great biker friendly places to eat. some great swimming holes. great changes in elevation and a motorcycle museum run by a guy from new zealand. ( talk about getting lost ) during the week you can ride these and never see a soul, car nor motorcycle. on week ends you meet some great riders from all over i highly recommend the ride
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I got the posts and write-ups here on the site about greasing the splines and dampers under the circlip on the rear wheel. I have it all torn down here while the hurricane is overhead. I got Honda moly 60 lube. While in here lubing it, should I go ahead and pull the driveshaft so I can moly the driveshaft and u-joint? My '87 has 87,000 miles on it and I bet the shaft has never been serviced... Thanks to all! -
Please add to this list if you think of something that I have missed. Chirp. There has been a lot of discussion on the "chirping" sound on the second gen Venture and Royal Stars. There is often some confusion about this sound. These bikes use straight cut gears which create a whine that is best described as the sound made by an old granny gear truck when you are letting it coast. That is a normal sound that is characteristic of the straight cut gears. The sound that is NOT normal is a high pitched chirping sound. This is a result of improper clutch basket clearances. Yamaha has replaced many clutch baskets under warranty and many people have reported that this has greatly reduced or eliminated this noise. Dry drive splines. Yamaha seems to be very stingy with the grease that they use on the rear drive spines on these bikes. There have been many reports of noise from the drive area. Yamaha has lubed some of these as a warranty issue but many of us have done the job at home. It requires a lift to remove the rear tire and then pulling the drive shaft to lube the front splines and also removing the rear drive from the wheel hub to grease the "fingers". Trunk Cracks. The 1999 model RSV had an issue with the trunk bottoms cracking. Yamaha came out with a support kit to address this problem and installed it under warranty. Audio Problems. Many people have had problems with the audio system due to back connections of the 5 din plugs inside the fairing. The fix is to split the fairing, unplug the connectors and apply a bit of dielectric grease to the pins. CB Antennas. The 1999 model RSV came with very poor CB Antennas. Many were replaced under warranty. The design was changed with the 2000 models. Many have replace the '99 antennas with aftermarket units. Backfiring. Upon deceleration, many have experienced a loud backfire. This actually sounds like a cannon going off. Some have corrected the problem by syncing the carbs but many of us have plugged the AIS system to stop this problem completely. There is a tech article here on plugging the AIS. -
And we drive among them. RandyA Woman's Fuel Cap Confusion Is Hilarious [VIDEO]
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Yesterday when we got up it was about 10 below zero here. It is warmer today...actually zero right now and is supposed to climb to a balmy 12 degrees F today. Actually staying fairly warm on the sleds but took the time yesterday to drive into Hayward and picked up a couple of facemasks. Also picked up a couple of very nice RibEyes. It's a tough life here but somebody has to do it.
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After waiting 4 months I finally received my Polaris Slingshot today. I've only driven it about 50 miles so far but what a thrill. Open cockpit experience with lots of comfort. Had a good day weather wise to be able to drive rather than trailer it home. Hopefully the weather will stay nice enough to get in a few more rides before winter really kicks in. Larry
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Rear tire went flat the other day so I put the jack underneath and Proceeded to pull the rear tire and wheel from the bike which I have done many times before as I have owned 5 different Ventures from 1963 to the current 1999. Took the 4 nuts that hold the rear drive shaft and removed it. Replaced the rear tire and reinstalled the drive shaft the same way I have always done it. Put everything back together and now the trans is locked in neutral can not shift to any other gear. Does anybody any idea what I might have done wrong and how to fix it. Any ideas would be great Thanks
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Are there any members here that own a spyder? Tina and I are thinking of getting one and were wondering what peoples opinions were. So far the reviews are all pretty positive. We are heading to Pioneer Motorsports tomorrow to test drive one since they have been so good to us Ventureriders. Any opinions will be appreciated Thanks Mike and T
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I'm hearing a clicking sound from the rear end when I slow for a traffic light or stop sign. Checked the oil and it's full. Should I pull the drive shaft and check it? She's a 2006 with 22,000 miles.
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Yup...You guessed it... The 650 VStar and RSV have a lot more in common than the gas caps.... Although not the same part number, they do not sell the final drive shaft assembly seperatly(as it must mesh exactly with its counterpart in the hub). They do sell the coupling gear for 18.29. So I Need a 650 Yamaha Rear axel Gear case assembly. Part no# 5FB-46101-00-00 or 5FB-46101-01-00 The splines are completely gone, they were rusty, as no grease was ever put on them.... So word of warning... all you RSV and 650 owners need to pull the driveline and grease the splines on the coupling gear. This drive assembly for the 650 is over $500 new... In the meantine, I'm going to mig weld the coupling gear to the final drive shaft assembly on the inside. this will not allow it to be dissassembled, but you cannot buy the parts seperately anyway.
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I figure since I have changed all the fluids, some more than once (I am replacing the 5wt fork oil with 10wt it feels too hanky) I might as well change the oil in the final drive. SO... What do I use (any preferred brand) How much is in there Is there any write up available Thanks!
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Well you have to expect some in the winter but the last 2 winters have been just about snow less . I was ridding last week but that came to an end yesterday 13" in one storm .I ran the snowblower twice and will need to clean up the drive again today. I grew up farming and then construction so summer ment work and winter ment fun. now it's time for some other kind of fun.
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Now that I have a sidecar on my 2004 RSV, I notice the need to feather the clutch considerably more than before just to get it to move. I have read that some of you put V-Max gears in your RSV to make 5th gear more useful. My question is for those of you that have done this does it make much of a difference in first gear, just trying to get rolling?
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Interesting concept. http://www.foxnews.com/leisure/2012/09/28/college-students-reinvent-wheel-with-spherical-drive-motorcycle/?intcmp=features
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I just changed out the wheel bearings on my 99 RSV (with 50k miles), then took it for a good 3 hour ride today. When I got home I checked around for heat from the bearings when I noticed how hot my final drive gets! I could touch it for say 30 seconds but any longer would start to burn my finger. I replaced the final drive oil with 80W90 gear oil in the spring. How hot are these units supposed to get?? It was a 3 hour ride, so it perhaps should have been rather warm? I noticed when doing the bearing job that theres a bearing visible on the wheel side of the pumpkin. Is this something I should replace? Or are the splines themselves causing too much friction? Are the splines replaceable or is this a matched set and do I buy a complete new pumpkin? Is the stealer going to laugh when he sees me coming?
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just got a old motorcycle off of craiglist pretty ruff shape. No si covers so ihv no idea wa kind of bike it is. It is a Kawasaki big 4 cylinder (not V) possibly 99 or 2000 Shaft drive Disc brakes in front and Drums in back. I have the vin but not sure if I can tell from the vin. Anyone have any clues?
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I'm having a serious case of the screammin meamies. I am on vacation! Plans for the week included buying a 1T portable hard drive to back up my laptop onto. Hard drive was bought but said plans got put off due to other things getting in the way as in one of my mares doing her best to make my vet rich. The "fun" began when said laptop locked up while I was online. Tried activating the Task Manager to shut it down and restart the puter but the program would not come up so I just turned it off. Apparently that has corrupted my hard drive and the puter will not load into Windows. Fortunately I have 2 laptops so I was able to access Gateway's website and find out what I needed to do to get it back up and running. Gateway said to pull the hard drive, copy it so I would not lose all of my data and set the puter back to factory specs which would erase any data on the hard drive. I went down to Best Buy to have the Geek Squad check it and according to them, the data on the hard drive cannot be accessed so I've had to buy a new hard drive. Not a biggie except for one minor detail. . . . All of the stuff I have loaded on said hard drive, pics, a ton of bookmarks, a semi serious collection of eBooks [Kindle!] and an equally semi serious collection of audio books! OUCH! To top it off, the Geek Squad informed me that a MINIMUM charge of $250, which could go as high as $2500, would be needed to send the old hard drive off for data recovery. And that is not including the cost of another portable hard drive to copy the data onto. OUCH!! The HELP! is this: Is there anyone out there that can do the data recovery without it costing me the proverbial arm and a leg ? Any recomendations for someone who could?? I can redownload the ebooks and the audiobooks but considering how slow my internet connection can be, that could take forever. Also the pics, bookmarks and assorted other goodies, for the most part, cannot be replaced. HELP!!!
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my 86 vr has an occasional clunking in the bottom end when idling or decelerating, now i know the old goldwings got that from primary drive chain slop. do the vr's have the same noise, or could it just be my clutch basket rattling -
Anybody ever drop one of these bad boys? I've dropped mine twice and was unable to pick it up myself either time. No damage done, fell over on the bars, but still a bit embarassing. Once on a gravel driveway(turned into newly resurfaced drive) and once in my driveway. I have a 1988 Venture Royale, not sure if it makes a difference. Anybody out there have any tricks or the secret to getting this thing back up when you're alone? Thanks Ed
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The new RSTD, ( well new 3 months ago ) just turned 5900 miles. I put the narrow E3 on the front yesterday, and took out for test ride. Yes!! it is better handling, then the OEM Bridgestone. Today, I installed the new Rear E3. and greesed the drive shaft, and rear spline. And yes, it does feel better with the E3 on the rear. So my point here is to confirm all the past comments I have read about changeing the OEM tires on the 2nd Gen. Handles better, and feels more like a 1st Gen Also, the Rear Bridgestone, would have been bald at about 7,000 miles, But decided to remove it today. And, Yes, there was hardley any Factory installed Greese, on the rear Drive spline, or on the drive shaft splines !!! If you have never pulled your rear drive unit, or drive shaft, be sure to do this job, and get you hands Greessy !!!
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We are visiting our home resort of Massanutten in Virginia. We trailered the bike up with us and yesterday rode the Skyline Drive...what a great ride! Was going to post photos, but I cannot seem to get them down to the size that will upload.
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Thanks to Vincent, AKA: Playboy, for this EXCELLENT tech article. Packing Swing Arm Bearings 1. Remove the rear wheel as you normally do and your halfway there. 2. Drain the final drive and remove the speed sensor wire and four acorn nuts and simply pull out final drive and drive shaft. This is a great time to catch up on a lot of those little maintenance items. . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga1.jpg 3. Un clip the speed sensor wire from the swing arm and remove the clamps from the brake line. So you don’t have to hunt for them later re insert the clamp bolts back into the swing arm finger tight. Just allow the caliper to hang over out of the way. Be sure and check pads for even wear. 4. Now its time to remove the shock and the dog bones or leveling links. Before removing top bolt from shock remove seat and right side cover. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga2.jpg 5. Un clip the shocks vent line located beside battery on right side. Then remove round black plastic cover where you add air to rear shock ( it just pops out ) http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga3.jpg 6. Remove the nut from the valve stem. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga4.jpg 7. Now just work the vent line and air line down from top and pull out top bolt from shock. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga5.jpg 8. To remove Y pipes you will need to remove left side cover also. Under the lower section of the Y pipe loosen clamp closest to the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga6.jpg For the section attached to rear cylinders you can loosen that clamp as well or remove the two nuts on the flange going into head . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga7.jpg Remove the bolt where the mufflers slide on . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga8.jpg 9. Now you can just work the Y pipe out and to the rear. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga9.jpg 10. Next pop off the chrome covers on both sides. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga10.jpg you will notice a bolt head on the left side. 30mm I think remove this bolt from the left side . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga11.jpg This bolt requires 72 ft/lbs on re installation. 11. On the right side you will notice a Allen head bolt with locknut loosen or remove nut then remove bolt . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga12.jpg This bolt only needs 5.1 FT/lbs of torque. Locknut requires the 72 ft/lbs. Don’t worry about the swing arm falling out when you remove the bolts. Now you can work the swing arm out from under the bike with just a wiggle. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga13.jpg The rubber boot protecting U joint should come out with it . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga14.jpg 12. Place the swing arm in a vice with drive shaft side down. Pull of the rubber boot so you can see the back side of the right side bearing. Insert the left side bolt from the inside. http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga15.jpg Using a wooden dowel rod tap out the bearing and seal. This will allow minimum distortion to seal so you can re use it . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga16.jpg 13. I used a seal puller on the right side seal because I had one but working carefully with a screw driver or very small pry-bar you can get that seal out with out much distortion. 14. Inspect bearings and races for pitting or wear marks I doubt you will find any unless this has been neglected for a very long time. My bike was @ 30k and had some grease still on bearings Probably just what the factory put on them. 15. Re-pack your bearings with a good quality grease. Insert the right bearing and reinstall seal flip over the swing arm and repeat for left side. 16. Reattach the rubber boot and work the swing arm back up into the bike. Don’t worry about the trying to get the boot back on just yet. Just get it in there where the swing arm bolts will be close to lining up. Lift the swing arm up and slide something under it to support it. . http://www.venturerider.org/Swing%20Arm/swinga17.jpg 17. Reinstall both bolts just enough to get the threads started good and then work the rubber boot back over the U joint. Long handle needle nose pliers and a monkey hook are real handy here. 18. Tighten both swing arm bolts. The left bolt must be tightened first. Remember right side is only 5.1 ft/lbs and locknut is 72 ft/lbs. 19. Everything else goes back in reverse order. Don’t forget to lube those pivot points on the shock while your there. Something that works well for me when it comes to reinstalling final drive and drive shaft is that I pull the driveshaft off the final drive, put the bike in gear, I then insert a large Allen wrench into the hole of the driveshaft where the spring fits for a handle and install the driveshaft into the U joint. You can turn the gear on the end of shaft to determine that your in the U joint and not beside it. Hope this helps because it is not the dreaded job I thought it would be. Could have done it in a afternoon but it was a 100 degree day and trying to take pics on all the steps took some time. Vincent aka PLAYBOY
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so i got my radio up and running but when i put in a tape all i get is a grinding noise like the drive gears are not quite meshing any ideas on how to fix it?
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I have the final drive off right now, how do you remove the shaft from the drive unit ? I removed the snap ring but it is still in there. What's the secret to getting it off, the manual is no help. /
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I post this for those that may be interested and for those who offered thoughts about a cure. I had posted here a while back about noise in the final of my 650. After 2 months and a ring gear bearing, wheel bearings, new drive shaft, and coupling gear, the noise was still there. So today, after removing the drive shaft, I took out the retaining ring that holds the input shaft and bearings in the final housing. Upon doing so, the cage of the roller bearing fell out. The 7 rivets that hold the cage together, inside the race, thus keeping all the bearing balls seperated and spaced, were broke and the halves of the cage have significant grinding wear. Thankfully there was no damage to the input shaft and the local dealer was able to get the bearing and sleeve pressed off the shaft. I'll have it back next week with new bearings and hopefully be done with this. Just thought I would share my story and findings.
