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Showing results for tags 'draw'.
Found 20 results
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Today is the last day that you can enter the current contest for your chance to win either 2nd Gen Carb covers or an Ipod Shuffle. Contest ends later this afternoon and I'll draw a winner tonight. Here is the link if you somehow missed it. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74684
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i have no low beam. it worked, very dimly, for a short period...maybe a couple weeks. started it this morning and no low, high beam works but shows a draw on gauges. bulb is about a month old. any ideas?
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Sorry we missed you the other day when we passed thru. Had a great vacation in your part of the country and got out just as the big rally began. We did make it to the 'Wonderful House' () but that was all the time we had in Scottsbluff. We also colored in the states of S.Dakota Wyoming, Montana and Idaho. The cabins in Hemingford are great, I would highly recommend them, the only draw back was the half mile dirt road from the hwy. Here is a couple pics of our cabin, the name is Patriot Inn, just at edge of town. thanks for your info----yammer'less [ATTACH]70625[/ATTACH][ATTACH]70626[/ATTACH][ATTACH]70627[/ATTACH]
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After replacing the stator and sealing the cover, are you supposed to refill it with oil or will it draw oil from the rest of the system? thanks Markus(calgaryrider)
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Just wanted to post this for feed back. I have been trying to think of ways to dress up the air intake/filter box area. Not looking for high performance just visiual appeal. My bike is an 08 RSV and I have added some RK mufflers. This is the only mechanical modification that has been done. I first started off by trying to find out how much CFM the stock filters drew so I would not be messing with fuel/air mixtures. Let me state I have no technical skills at all. Just about everyone that I've seen that has altered the air intake has had to adjust or re-jet and shim needle valves!?!? Seems the filters they used drew way to much air and exceeded the cfm required by the RSV. The only way I could come close was to call K & N and they gave me the info on CFM of the replacement filter for the RSV. Part #YA-1399 has 338 cfm. Then I looked at different types of "Pod, Pancake" type filters. Nobody making filter is willing or knows how much CFM there filters draw (except K&N). I wanted to keep the filter size small so that I would not exceed the 338. Thinking that K&N was a high flow filter, the stock must draw less. Also the stock air box has only a 1.5 inch hole drawing that air through. I was able to get info on several filter that looked good and had the low cfm draw. I decided on a small 4.5" round chrome pancake filter that is 1" thick. The filter is reusable/washable and oil charged. I fabricated small brackets to secure it solidly and also got some muffler pipe to form a connection between filter and intake hose. The filters draw 127 cfm each. I've had them on for a couple days now and have ran the bike on the highway and in town. Running through the rev limits and down shifting. There has been no hesitation of sputtering at all. Lots of get-up and go. Have only put about 20 miles on her so far. As for the filter being small my thinking was the stock flliter box is roughly 9.5L x 5W x 4.5D with a small 1.5 inch hole drawing air into a filter that is roughly 5.25L x 3.5X x 3.5D. The outside box makes the filter look bigger than it really is. If I need to go up in filter size or cfm K&N also has several round and oval styles with cfm draw of 172 to 269. Have included some pictures to show how it looks. Sure would like to here some of your thoughts (good/bad, postive/negative). Or if anyone would like more information just let me know. Thanks for reading, Dennis
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i know this was my first year of doing the nc meet and eats and hope that next year will be a lot better. i will be working on looking at the calander and trying my best not to have them on holiday weekends.think i will try to keep about the same destanations as this year.i try having them where more members can make them and maybe have them close enough to draw some from sc,tn and some ga folks, of course all are welcome.thoght about even playing around the thought of having a ride and stay over at a motel and than finishing up with it sat,dont know yet.
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hi all glad i found this org. this my first post. i have a 83 venture and i want to add some rear running lights and a second licence plate flashing brake light so the 4 wheelers can see me. i want to go with leds do you think they wont draw to much from the electrical if i just splice onto the tail light wiring? thanks for any help
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I know I can replace incandescent turn signal bulbs with LED clusters or bulbs to reduce electrical consumption (draw?). But if I have to add a resistor in order for the "blinker" functionality to work, does the added draw from the resistor essentially cancel out the gain from going with LEDs? Or is there an added draw from the resistor but it's not enough to overcome the gain from the LED? And if so does anyone know what the numbers really are? (for example: incandescent bulb draws 5w, LED draws .2w, resistor draws 1w, so 5w - 1.2w still results in "recovering" 3.8w per bulb - and yeah, I just made up all the numbers.) As you can see I'm not an electrician. Thanks in advance.
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Would had posted on the original thread by Skydoc but thought it would be best to start a new one. I have been considering purchasing the anti-dive blocking plates from Skydoc; essentially removing the anti-dives system from my 86. Can't really think of a good reason in doing so otherthan eliminating the needed power they require. Already have the Progressive springs installed. So, I have the following questions. 1) Does the anti-dive system draw any power when the front shocks aren't under an increasing load (diving)? 2) How much power does the anti-dive system draw when the front shocks dive (max draw)? 3) By making the front shocks stiffer which reduces the dive, doesn't that fact alone reduce the amount of juice the anti-dive system draws? 4) And I suppose that by eliminateing the anti-dive system, that doesn't eliminate the ability to use the CLASS up front (increase/decrease air pressure). 5) Last question. As all us 1st Gen owners know, whenever the rear brake is applied, which activates two 1157 stop light bulbs, is when the voltmeter really drops. Whether stopped or moving, activating the rear stop light affects the voltmeter the same. I've installed a couple really good bright 260 degree LED bulbs in the tail light and notice my voltmeter doesn't drop one little bit when activating the rear brake. Having said that, I doubt the anti-dive draws much at all. The question is: Could some convince me that removing the anti-dive is really a good idea? -
Hi, What do we know about the amount of power available to power accessories on a stock '84 non Royale? All otherwise being well, how much current can I draw with add on accessories without risking a no start situation at the next stop? Thanks, Brian H.
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:dancefool:Oooooooooh!!!! What A Feeling ...What A RUSH!!!! Already 2,000 kms can't get off the scoot One draw back is I KNOW EVEnTUALLY I'll Get A TICKET OR Loose MY Licence:crying:
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Hi folks! I recently (one year ago) added driving lamps to my 85 VR and I have had issues with the driving lamps taking alot of power to run. So much in fact, that when I'm running at approx 3500 - 4000 rpm the charging system can hold it fine but if I drop into city driving speeds, the draw becomes troublesome. After some city driving with the lamps on, my radio will drop in volume in relation to my turn signal. Blink on, lower volume, blink off, higher volume. (kind of funny now that I'm typing this). I have the positive running direct to the battery and my question is "Is there a better way to do this so the draw isn't quite so high?" The lamps 2 x 35w halogen. Stator is new in 2006. Any suggestions will be happily considered. Thomas -
I grieve, this is a travesty,,,...! I've google'd the perp. I won't go there on this site but may I say please do the same and draw your own conclusion. Lift our military folks up!, please pray! I'm so sick! Renne U.S.A.F. ret.
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Found at Wally world the "Burners" small chrome foglights that would work great on a motorcycle. Problem is they draw 100 watts and most bikes dont have that to spare. Swapping down to 35Watt bulbs drops the load to 70 watts but that's not good enough for me. I work for a company that is on the cutting edge of LED lighting. the image attached shows 2 different lights in the same small Burners foglights. the white one is a 1 watt white LED matrix, the other is a blinding 3 Watt assembly with focusing lenses. The Image does not show it, but it hurts to look at the Yellow one. I went 1 block down and the bike was incredibly obvious. And yellow is an attention getting color that is legal for the front of the bike. the white ones are a wide flood, dont light the road any. the Yellow ones light the road. what do you guys think? Oh the high power yellow ones draw a total of 6 watts. I can put 3 sets on a bike and still be way under the typical foglight draw. I love how stark the yellow color is, very attention getting. Note photo was taken in bright daylight. I'll take another tonight.
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I am currently shooting an Oneida Aeroforce. I fell in love with the Oneida because of the smooth pull through the entire draw because of my shoulder problems. The problem with the Oneida is the weight of the bow, and also the size of it...it is a long bow compared to many others. Makes it difficult to hunt with this bow from a ground blind because most ground blinds are not tall enough. As a result I am looking into different brands of bows and have come across one make called "Concept Archery", which makes a nice looking shorter and lighter bow, and they advertise 99% let off. I would welcome suggestions of any other makes of bows keeping in mind my biggest issue is that I need a smooth draw throughout the draw...I can't pull over the hump that many of the bows have. Thanks for the input.
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bought a new garmin nuvi 200 gps for my wing and just installed it. looks factory and it was cheap. don't have all the bells and whistles but it will get me where i aim it. hope i can hear it cuz it don't have an audio output jack. thats the only draw back. i need to get another power cord and mount so i can switch it over to my vstar.
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take a look at this - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-VENTURE-ROYALE-1300cc-Beautiful_W0QQitemZ140298791821QQihZ004QQcategoryZ6718QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Looks like this bike has an extra tank mounted on a trailer hitch? Anybody ever seen anything like this? Would the fuel pump be able to draw from that tank?
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OK, here's the symptoms.. This afternoon while waiting at a signal I looked down at my amp gauge, and it shows a deep discharge. The turn signal was on, and the front brake was on. So I had a bunch of lights going on, and the amp meter fell every time the signal blinked, or the front brake was applied.. However... when I applied the rear brake the change needle barely showed any draw, and the rear brake light did light up. Rode it home from the Doc's and never had any trouble starting it, and as long as I didn't use the blinkers or the front hand brake the gauge show'd normal charge. Now I just went out to check things out again, and without starting the engine, I put on the left and right turn signal they lit up but didn't blink. They did show a big battery draw. I fired up the engine and tried them and away they went and blinked like they were supposed to. All lights, including the headlight, were bright, running or not. Any ideas? This is really weird... I might also add that the bike has a new battery. -
I hope this post isn't being beat to death but here goes anyway. Just installed a 15 inch LED light bar on the rear of my 88 VR and it works and looks great. I am intent on improving rear visibility both during the day and at night short of wearing a yellow reflective vest. I am just curious as to how much amp draw one can expect the taillight circuit to handle without ruining the computer. I was looking for replacements for the two 1157 dual filament bulbs that might draw a little less amp, but have not been able to locate a suitable substitute. I suppose there isn't such a bulb. Each 1157 bulb draws 2.1 amps, I think anyway, and maybe 2.7 amps (don't know for sure) when the brake light is activated. Double that for two bulbs and that is perhaps as much as 5.4 amps. No wonder the voltmeter drops so radically when the brake light is on. Has anyone modified their scoots like I have and would they have any advice on how to reduce the rear brake light circuit draw just a tad? I did purchase two led bulbs and installed them. Even with two led bulbs and the 15 inch led light bar, the computer warning light was on.
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I was thinking.... what if I lowered the front end instead of raising the rear? What would be the draw backs of doing so?
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