Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'draining'.
Found 8 results
-
On my old honda one of the many things I did when winterizing was I always fogged the cylinders and plugs with fogging oil before putting it away for winter. I'd also sprits the top of the plugs with a little WD-40 to keep them from getting any nasty buildup. Come summer I never had a start up problem. She would just fire right up. I've done some searching on the forum and see lot of talk about draining the carbs or putting in staybli/seafoam and not draining the carbs but no mention of fogging the cylinders. I don't want to start another "to drain or not to drain" debate, so let's stay away from that topic. Question is do you fog your cylinders or Is this not something that needs to be done on the RSTD? Thanks
-
OK so it was bound to happen. My 88 collector, which had been repaired by the PO rotted out at the weld. I have it all unbolted and I have the new(used) one ready to go in. BUT....How can I get the front headers off without removing the rad etc. From this thread it looks like I should be able to. http://www.venturerider.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1002 But I don't see how it's possible. it doesn't look like you can move the header far enough forward to get it out because the rad is in the way...and I can't move the rad without draining it because the lower hose is too restrictive. Any suggestions?
-
Anyone have a good method of draining the gas tank on a MKII? -
I tried searching, but no luck. So I hope someone can help. I just got a 1984 XVZ 1200 that supposedly runs great, but the coils are suspected of draining the battery. The bike has sat in a garage for a while, so I just got a new battery and am giving it a long slow charge. Meanwhile I am in the process of putting the bike back together. Any help would be appreciated.
-
(The information in this post would serve well to be included in the tech library with the other coolant change information.) I changed my coolant the other day for the first time. After reading all of the very helpful posts and the Tech Library, the only thing I noticed was that there were no tips on how to do it without creating a mess, especially when draining the cylinders. Sooo, I spent more time visualizing and figuring than I did actually draining the coolant, but I did come up with a method that resulted in no mess on the engine or floor. This will make my, and hopefully your, next coolant change a little easier and less messy. As well, I found that at 2 inch long screw of the proper thread size was easier to use for pulling the cylinder side drain plugs than using the cumbersome spark plug. I didn't repeat the steps on how to get to the radiator cap and how to remove of the side covers, as this information is already well documented in the tech library. PHOTO 1 - Side Cover Drain Bottle Get a 16 oz soda bottle, the type that is smooth sided because it flexes better. Cut an angle across the bottom end and cut out room for your fingers to pull the plug on the top side. You can do a few test fits with the bottle to get the angle right. You will need the cap screwed onto the bottle when you use it. PHOTO 2 - Draining Radiator Put the bike on a jack and raise it high enough to clear a 5 gallon bucket. Remove the radiator cap, then the radiator drain plug and the radiator will speed dump with no mess. - - - - - - - Next, you will want to grab a large bath towel (preferably not the one your wife just bought at Kohl's). While I only dripped about 1 ounce of coolant onto the towel while draining cylinder 3, I used under the drain bottle on each cylinder to catch any dribbles (and this was the first time I tried this method and didn't know how well it would work). Photos 3-5 illustrate how I placed the towel and the drain bottle for cylinders 1, 3, and 4. (I saved cylinder 2 for last, as it involves making a chute out of packing tape to flow the coolant to the bottle.) The drain plugs are in place in all of the pics, as I took the pics after I drained each cylinder. The coolant in the drain bottle is from the respective cylinder pictured. PHOTO 3 - Draining Cylinder 1 PHOTO 4 - Draining Cylinder 3 PHOTO 5 - Draining Cylinder 4 - - - - - - - - The last step is draining cylinder 2. The location of the drain plug for cylinder 2 does not allow for the angling of the drain bottle. I saved this for last because it took a little construction of a chute made of packing tape. Tear three strips of packing tape long enough to go from the side of the cylinder to about 2 or 3 inches past the side of the chrome engine cover. One strip will be the middle strip with the sticky side down. The other two strips get folded in half lengthwise over the left and right third of the middle strip. Then abut one end of this tape contraption to the side of the cylinder and press the center portion down so it sticks to the top of the engine and along the groove of the chrome engine cover. You now have a little rain gutter to carry the coolant to your drain bottle. PHOTO 6 - Cylinder 2 tape chute PHOTO 7 - Cylinder 2 tape chute viewed from side angle PHOTO 8 - Cylinder 2 draining - - - - - - - - - - My coolant drain amounts were as follows: Radiator - 80 oz (2.5 qts) Cylinder 1 - 5 oz Cylinder 2 - 2 oz Cylinder 3 - 2 oz (this accounts for the 1 oz that spilled into towel) Cylinder 4 - 3 oz Reservoir - 10 oz (was at the "Full" line) Total - 102 oz (3.19 qts) I didn't drain the water pump. Every post I've read and folks I have spoken with said they only got 4 oz, at most, out of the water pump and the headache of getting to the plug outweighed the amount of fluid I would get out. Hope this has been of some help to others out there. Phoenix (If anyone would like higher resolution pics, let me know and I can email the high resolution originals to you.)
-
Does anyone know if it is possible to test the stator without removing the sidecover or draining the oil? I know that one can test it by starting the bike and checking the voltage at the battery, but what I do not know is if this is a conclusive test for determining whether the stator is functioning properly. Thanks in advance. -
I just got my 2007 Venture in August of this year. Sold my 2003 V Star. I will be storing the Venture in the next month or so once the snow starts flyin here in Ontario. Normally I drain the carbs when I am storing after filling the Fuel tank with gas and stabilizer. I can't figure out how to drain the carbs on the Venture. Are there drain screws or some easy way of draining. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks JR
-
I have a friend with three thats right three 1970's vintage 750 Kawasaki triples. Two of them are together, one with an expansion chamber, and one basket case. The bikes have been setting up for a number of years. Any questions about where to start on getting one or more running? I'm thinking that the seals most likely need replacing, carb boots could be cracked and leaking. Cleaning the carbs. Draining, inspecting and cleaning the gas and oil tanks. Replacement of plugs etc. We just don't want to get one of them started and discover the hard way that there is an air leak. Any other suggestions?
