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Showing results for tags 'drain'.
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Hello I hope Anyone can help me... My Battery from my 2002 Yamaha Midnight Venture is draining, after 3 days the battery is to low to start the bike....I first thought it was the battery , so I replaced it for a new one ..but I still have the same problem. I put the Multimeter behind ..and it looks like, I have a drain of 0.18 Amp. Does Anyone have any idea's what it can be ? thank you
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Do you need to drain the oil before pulling the cover? I know there will be some oil lost when doing so, but how much is up there?
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While cleaning block up today, I took some pictures of the 2nd drain plug on the 1st gen blocks. I Don't know if the 2nd gens have a similar 'feature'. On the left side, directly under the middle drive cover there is a 14mm head bolt that goes into block and drains an oil pocket. This pocket appears to serve as a lubrication pool for the middle drive gear. Not very big, maybe about the size of a milk container that I remember from school, half pint I think. This pocket is isolated from draining, so a normal oil change will not drain this oil. Curiously, there is another pocket that is isolated that lays outside of the pocket that has the drain screw It is an 'L' shaped pocket that is below & to the right in the 1st picture. No drain provision for this area though. It would be nice to know what the design intent was for the 2nd outer pocket, and why it is not can't be drained. Gary -
It has been said here that there is no way to drain the 2nd gen water pump with any normal tools without removing or at least loosening the exhaust. I found out otherwise. I REALLY hate disturbing a new, leak-free exhaust system. Even more than I hate vise-grips and cheapo Chinese sockets. With these common items I was able to remove the waterpump drain plug easily. Happy wrenching.
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Do you have to drain the oil first before you take the cover off?
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I have been having trouble getting the idle mixture set on my 83VR. I have the airbox off now and noticed there is fuel dripping from the slide needle on 3 of them when the engine is running. Thought to myself that the float level was too high so I put a clear tube on the drain to check. Supprising all of them are right on, 14mm below the carb centerline. The carbs were cleaned last winter and all gaskets were replaced even the jet block plugs. Before I remove them and take them apart I just wanted some input on what might be causing this.
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I'm doing my valve check on my 2005 Midnight Venture tomorrow and have a question.I got the bike seat,tank,air filters,surge tanks and carbs off.Next is draining the coolant.The manual says to take off the side covers,one of the mufflers and remove the exhaust pipe from the #4 cylinder.Is all that REALLY necessary to drain the coolant?
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I was doing some work on the bike today and took off the fake gas tank lid and a lot of metal stuff seemed to look rustier that it did the last time I had the lid off, (it might have been last fall) While cleaning things up and wiping dust and residue off everything under there i noticed that the drain tube was off my battery, probably happned when the bike got laid over last fall. Screws for the air cleaner, metal rings to tie down the battery and even some of the plastic were rusted or had a harsh residue on it. So have a good look and reconnect your battery drain tube if its not connected anymore. For those of you with the glass Mat battery just ignore this message. Brian
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My new to me 86 has been sitting for at least 4 years. The previous owner only put 400 miles on it last year. Before that the owner died and his wife kept it 3 years before selling it. I don"t know when the last time the radiator has been flushed and the coolant changed so i want to do that before i get into the meat of the riding season. In my owners manual it shows two point to drain the system. a coolant drain cock coming down off the radiator and a drain plug under the water pump. My question: Which of these two points do members use to drain their coolant? Is the drain cock plastic? will it break? or is the plug under the water pump easier to get to and open? I'd love to know who has used either or both and could you only use one or the other? Thanks.
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Just in general for any battery if a battery has multiple cells and is ran in a series does the battery drain 1 cell at a time? If the battery is ran in parallel does all cells drain at the same time?
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The Drain Pipe has no room for me to seperate at the leaking joint. At the Bottom the Drain Pipe goes into the cement floor. Above the Drain Pipe has a T for the Vent and the horizontal drain connection to the sink/dishwasher. This drain connection goes through the 2 x 6 and so the drain Pipe hole has absolutely no give in it. So see attachment for my solution. 1st picture is the leak at the 1st picture at the point where the vertical pipe goes into the curve piece. 2nd picture is my plan of the fix. By so doing it provides me some give so I can make all the connections. Anyone see any issue with the solution?
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So, I finally got out to do an oil change on my Sear's mower since I put it away last month. Couldn't find the oil drain so I broke down and checked the owner's manual. Yikes!!! You have to remove the dipstick and then...get this...turn the mower over to get the oil to pour out the fill tube! Oh...and it says to move it around to get all the oil out! That may be fine with some people, but Arnold Whatsisname I am not. What kind of dipstick (Pun intentional, sorry!) would design a motor that way? Could you imagine having to flip your bike upside down to drain the oil? Or any other fluid? Of course, my Sear's snow blower has a drain tube. But...it's just short enough that it drains onto the edge of the drain pan unless you lift the front and hold it there till it's done! Geez!! What were they thinking? Or were they thinking? Oh well, it's done and I feel better after my rant. Next is the bike oil change (Two of them) since I've finally had to put them away...too much salt on the roads around here already. Andy
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I'm doing progressives on my 88 I'm trying to drain the front forks. I'm using a 19mm hex and reaching way up inside the bottom of the fork. BUT....it feels REALLY TIGHT and I've turned it probably 20 turns and it doesn't feel like its getting any looser. Is the plug really that long? Is it possible to be stripped but not get more free as I keep turning it? Could it just be the seal that makes it feel so tight? I'm almost afraid to try the 2nd fork if I've somehow screwed this one up. Is there an alternative way to drain the fork.? Man I wish I knew what I was doing!!! It's scary stuff when you've never done this before! Every nut and bolt is an adventure LOL
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I have a 2005 RSTD and have been searching everywhere, and probably found the answer, but I am one that needs the answer in plain site.. What is the size of the oil drain plug washer (or gasket as I have seen listed in various parts manuals)? I don't need one right away but would like to keep a few on hand just in case.. Thanks, Robert C.
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ok after getting parts from members on here and working in a hot storage shed i put the radiator and hoses back on the bike. just not sure how tight i got everything? i dont have much feeling in one of my hands i got all the clamps tight i hope? now just a quick and maybe dumb question? is it safe to test just useing water instead of anitfreeze? i can drain the water witht he drain valve if all looks good after the test and replace with proper antifeeze. as the cost of antifreeze just to watch it hit the floor can be a little bit expensive when your unemployed and on social security....
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Oil Change instructions for Women: 1. Pull up to GM Dealership when the mileage reaches 3,000 miles since the last oil change. 2. Drink a cup of coffee. 3. 15 minutes later, scan debit card and leave, driving a properly maintained vehicle. Money spent: Oil Change:$24.00 Coffee: Complementary TOTAL: $24.00 Oil Change instructions for Men: 1. Wait until Saturday, drive to auto parts store and buy a case of oil, filter, kitty litter, hand cleaner and a scented tree,and use your debit card for $50.00. 2. Stop by Beer Store and buy a case of beer, (debit $24), drive home. 3. Open a beer and drink it. 4. Jack truck up. Spend 30 minutes looking for jack stands. 5. Find jack stands under kid's pedal car. 6. In frustration, open another beer and drink it. 7. Place drain pan under engine. 8. Look for 9/16 box end wrench. 9. Give up and use crescent wrench. 10. Unscrew drain plug. 11. Drop drain plug in pan of hot oil: splash hot oil on you in process. Cuss. 12. Crawl out from under truck to wipe hot oil off of face and arms. Throw kitty litter on spilled oil. 13. Have another beer while watching oil drain. 14. Spend 30 minutes looking for oil filter wrench. 15. Give up; crawl under truck and hammer a screwdriver through oil filter and twist off. 16. Crawl out from under truck with dripping oil filter splashing oil everywhere from holes. Cleverly hide old oil filter among trash in trash can to avoid environmental penalties. Drink a beer. 17. Install new oil filter making sure to apply a thin coat of oil to gasket surface. 18. Dump first quart of fresh oil into engine. 19. Remember drain plug from step 11. 20. Hurry to find drain plug in drain pan. 21. Drink beer. 22. Discover that first quart of fresh oil is now on the floor. Throw kitty litter on oil spill. 23. Get drain plug back in with only a minor spill. Drink beer. 24. Crawl under truck getting kitty litter into eyes. Wipe eyes with oily rag used to clean drain plug. Slip with stupid crescent wrench tightening drain plug and bang knuckles on frame removing any excess skin between knuckles and frame. 25. Begin cussing fit. 26. Throw stupid crescent wrench. 27. Cuss for additional 5 minutes because wrench hit truck and left dent. 28. Beer. 29. Clean up hands and bandage as required to stop blood flow. 30. Beer. 31. Dump in five fresh quarts of oil. 32. Beer. 33. Lower truck from jack stands. 34. Move truck back to apply more kitty litter to fresh oil spilled during any missed steps. 35. Beer. 36. Test drive truck. 37. Get pulled over: arrested for driving under the influence. 38. truck gets impounded. 39. Call loving wife, make bail. 40. 12 hours later, get truck from impound yard. Money spent: Parts: $50.00 DUI: $2,500.00 Impound fee: $75.00 Bail: $1,500.00 Beer: $20.00 TOTAL: $4,145.00 But you know the job was done right! -
Water pump drain bolt. If you have a Method other than loosening pipes pardon for the redundancy. I cut a 17mm socket down to an inch and cut the head off of a an old 2 stroke plug wrench, good steel, 1/8" thick, 6" long, welded the flat metal to the top of the socket and it works like a charm. bf -
Ok don't shoot the messenger but: Looking for a way to clean carbs and ensure jets are clear without taking carbs off... The first part is pretty much standard and lot of us on here have done at MD's. Take tank and top center air box off. Drain carbs, open 4 drain screws then close. If you take fuel line off at center rear of carbs and spray full, this will effectively place cleaner in all your carbs. let sit 30 min. drain carbs, open drain screws. (leave open) ---part I would like to add--- Take diaphram(s) and needle slides out. Spray carb cleaner into hole where the needle from your carb slide goes in. It should be your high speed jet? Spray carb cleaner into small hole inside top of carb. It should be your pilot jet? Spray carb cleaner into hole at the "T" sections of your carbs will be your overflows. Close your drain screws. Am I missing something? Can anyone add or correct any assumptions I have just made? V7goose , skydoc_17 , freebird, anyone... -
Has anyone just changed the fork oil on a 1st Gen without removing the forks.? I know there is a drain plug at the bottom of the forks.
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Looking for a little info for the 600mi service. . . I will be on the road back home, 600 miles into the 2100 mile trip, and will of course need to do an oil and filter change, and rear-end oil change, my question is what size wrenches do I need for the oil drain plug, and rear diff drain and fill. It takes the same filter as my zx14 so the filter wrench and wratchet isn't a problem, and i need to carry as few as possible on my flight. Thanks in advance for helping. cs..
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Coolant drain on the front of my '86 VR is dripping.To replace that o-ring you remove the little set screw in the side and then does that plastic plug unscrew or wiggle out of there.That fitting and the little hose on top were plugged up with a reddish brown clay when I flushed the system,now that I cleaned everything out it started leaking.Thanks
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Ok...stupid question...I have the V-four timing chain cover to replace the yamaha one. Question is, when I take the old cover off does fluid come out? Do I need to drain the oil first? I also have the water pump V-four cover and I know I have to drain the antifreeze but not sure about the TC cover. Thanks for any help
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I've read many threads on changing the clutch fluid. So the Bleeder valve has been removed and an oil pan under the VR with it on the center stand. I pulled on the clutch lever slowly a few times to drain most of the fluid. I opened the Reservoir lid. Now I need to get ready to go to work (job). So my thoughts are the fluid will seek its lowest level and therefore in 24 hours most all the old fluid should have been drained. Was wondering if it would be better to have the clutch lever compressed to the handle bar and tied, or does it matter, Just asking, for I do not know if it matters. Yes, I do have a speed valve to install, and I will use new dot 4 brake fluid. My plans are next morning to start pouring new fluid into the reservoir until fresh fluid is seen coming out the drain plug. After that I plan on using Condor's method of reverse fill the fluid from the drain plug up to get all the air bubbles. Oh any suggestions as to how much dot 4 break fluid to purchase, being that once opened that there is an age factor with break fluid. I don't mind having some extras around but not a lot.
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I thought I'd post a few comments for those who have not been through this before. It is not hard as long as you have the proper tools. T-handle allen wrenches are almost mandatory for me - they make turning out the many socket head screws fast and easy. In addition, if you follow the manual (Method #1 below), you really want a set of long ball-end 3/8" drive allen wrenches for use with your ratchet. If you follow the shop manual, the job is pretty straight forward, but you will have one frustrating surprise. I have detailed the full drain procedure first as Method #1, then two slightly modified procedures that some might prefer at the expense of not getting out quite as much of the old coolant. The first steps apply to all three methods: You start by removing the seat, tank, both lower fairings and all three battery covers. Don't forget to remove that top center #3 Philips screw on the middle cover; it is kind of hidden! The cover slips out to the left fairly easily, but you do need to watch down in the middle for hoses and wire bundles that will hang up on the corners. Now you are ready to begin draining the fluid. METHOD #1 - The Complete Drain: The radiator drain bolt is obvious on the bottom left, and getting the overflow tank out is pretty easy too. It is only held on by one bolt and a couple of lugs in rubber grommets. Just use your fingers to push that plastic shield above it up so you can pull the filler neck forward and out to the right side. Some folks prefer to siphon out the overflow tank instead of removing it, but I don't know why; taking it out is MUCH easier than messing with a siphon hose! (But you don't have to remove the center or left side battery covers if you are not going to remove the tank.) Note: If you remove the radiator cap before you take out the radiator drain bolt, the coolant will drain VERY fast with quite a bit of splashing; you may want to let it drain mostly on it's own before you take that cap off! Next you will want to pull the fake cylinder fins off and take out the rubber plugs; use an old spark plug to screw into the plug and pull it out. Each cylinder water jacket holds quite a bit of coolant - seemed like about 1/2 cup each but could have been less - and those fin covers pop off very quickly with a 5mm T-handle. Make sure you leave the right front cover off until you finish with the next step! The frustrating surprise will come when you try to drain the water pump. The drain plug is a 17mm plug angled forward in the bottom of the chrome water pump cover, right next to the bend in the header pipe. The service manual says absolutely nothing about this other than to just take out the plug. Good LUCK! Absolutely no way to get on it with normal tools unless you loosen the header pipe. The good news is that you don't have to actually remove the pipe, just loosen the clamp at the front of the Y joint and remove the two socket head nuts on the header clamp (this is where you will really appreciate the long ball-end allen wrenches for your ratchet!). Once the header pipe is loose enough to pull a bit to the outside near the floor board, it is easy to remove the drain plug with a normal 17mm socket and a wobble extension or u-joint. Now you are ready to put all the drain plugs back in and replace the fin covers (make sure to get that header pipe back in place before you put the right front cover on!). DO NOT over tighten the radiator drain plug - that is all plastic, and the torque spec is ONLY 22 inch pounds. Even with the proper torque wrench, that is so light you can't hardly tell it has clicked, so you could still easily over-tighten and damage it. To me, the right tightness seems to be about what you can do just with your hand on a long 3/8" extension WITHOUT the ratchet. That's it. Only thing left is to mix up 3.5 liters of 50/50 coolant and fill the overflow reservoir to the FULL line, then carefully fill the radiator to the top of the neck. Put the radiator cap back on and run the engine for a minute or so (plenty of fuel in the carbs to do this without the tank) to let the coolant settle, then top off the coolant at the radiator cap. Now put it all back together and take your bike out for a short ride to get the motor fully up to temperature and check for leaks. Then after it completely cools off, check the overflow tank and top up to the Full mark if necessary (if there were any air-pockets left when you filled the coolant, some of the fluid from the overflow tank will be sucked in as the engine cools). METHOD #2 - Skipping the Water Pump Drain (almost as good as #1): Several folks have said they prefer to just drain the radiator and try to flush the rest of the coolant out with distilled water (see posts below), so I include these corner-cutting options as Methods 2 & 3. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator. Now pull each of the fake fin covers and pop out that little rubber plug. You will notice that coolant that drains from each water jacket still seems bright green, showing the "flush" was incomplete (that's why you are still doing these plugs). With the radiator plug back in and the fin covers back on, it is time to refill with coolant. But this time you have left some distilled water or highly diluted coolant in the engine, so it is best to not use pre-mixed coolant. Add about 1.75 liters of straight coolant, some to the overflow tank (1/2 full) and the rest to the radiator. Now top up both with distilled water and run the engine for a minute to work out any air pockets, then re-top the radiator with distilled water. METHOD #3 - Short and Sweet and Hope For The Best: In this method you skip draining both the water pump AND the cylinder water jackets. You will be leaving some of the old coolant in there to mix with the new, but some folks find this OK. Drain the radiator and overflow tank as in #1. Now refill the radiator with distilled water (about three liters) and run the engine for at least two minutes. This will not be long enough to heat up the coolant and open the thermostat, but enough coolant will circulate through the vent hols in the thermostat to mostly clear out the water pump and leave only distilled water in it. RE-drain the radiator and flush it again just like above. After two flushes you probably noticed a much lighter green color to the water on the last drain, so it is time to add new coolant and button it all back up. But remember, not only are you leaving some water/coolant in the water pump, you are also leaving it in the water jackets too, so you need to use a lower amount of new coolant in the fill. My guess of the right mix would be to add only 1.25 liters of coolant and then top it all off with distilled water. That's it folks, all done for another couple of years! My personal choice is Method #1. Even with the need to loosen the header pipe, it really isn't that difficult, and it doesn't take any more time than adding the engine flushes on the other methods. But whichever method you use, it is certainly better than not changing it at all. So now that the maintenance is done, let's rack up some miles! Enjoy the ride! Goose -
I'm stuck at work with an overheating 97 Tour Classic. The top drain plug p/n 1AA-12561-00-00 has broken off in the radiator and leaks coolant. The poor thing overheats after only a couple of miles and I don't have the tools to remove it with me so I'll be taking a few breaks on the ride home. I would like to replace it with something other than the stock plastic one. Does anyone know the size and thread of what's there so I can can find brass fitting to put in its place?
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