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Showing results for tags 'diy'.
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ok i'm looking to do a carb sync on my scoot and just cant afford the tool or having the dealership do the work. (Have you seen the price of gas I comute 2 hours everyday for work) so anyway I found this great DIY carb sync tool seems more accurate then the the tube and oil method. great walkthrough on how to make your own. http://faq.ninja250.org/index.php/Is_there_a_carb_sync_tool%3F
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I ran across this neat little idea on Delphi Forums (DIY Cruiser Forum) and thought it was an easy and inexpensive way to possibly enhance our visual presence on the road. The Radio Shack part cost 2.39 each and was the only cost associated with this modification. Here is the link that contains the pdf instructions for performing this mod. I do not know if you have to be a delphi forum member to read their posts, but if you have any problems accessing it, let me know and I will see about posting the copy I downloaded. Attached are several pix of the mod on MyPalomino. http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=DIYCruisers&msg=11.1
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What can I expect to pay for the 16K mile scheduled maintanence? Thanks for any insight. BTW..I am useless as a mechanic, so don't even bother with DIY.
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One of things that I have wanted to add to my '84 was more switches to control extra lighting and power for other toys. As you all know the 1st gen is lacking in any flat panel spaces to really do a clean and accessable install in the cockpit area. I'd seen the Kuryakyn Master Cylinder switch panel and I thought there had to be a way to install something without obstructing anything on the controls. So I went digging in my odds and ends and after a quick trip to Radio Shack and a stop at the hardware store this is what I came up with. No mods to the bike, controls, panels or handle bars. This will mount by changing one bolt. Parts needed: (1) Radio Shack Project box. I used a 4x2x1 model. Part # 270-1802 (1) 10mm x 1.25 pitch x 2" stainless bolt. (2) 3/8 washers (an extra couple for spacing if you like) (3) On/Off switches / your choice, just watch that they are not too big. (1) Steel spacer / 1" long x 3/8 I.D. Just needs for the bolt to go through it. (1) 1/2 I.D. rubber grommet. (3 ft) Plastic wiire loom casing or wrap. (4) Small self tapping machine screws. Of course wire, terminals, sealant, and a few zip ties. And maybe a beer. Tools: A drill with a bit the size of the switch studs. All my holes were 3/8. A Dremel is great but a small file or Exacto knife will do fine. And either wire crimpers or a soldering gun. First things first and I'll try to keep the pics in the right order to follow along. Open up the project box and remove the metal top panel and lid. The metal panel is meant to be the top plate for the box. I mounted it on the bottom to reinforce that where the bolt will go through. It will fit over the bumps on the bottom of the box so just drill small holes in the center of the bumps and attach it with the self tapping machine screws. Set up how you want your switches to lay. Mark your holes and carefully (my box is ABS) and drill the proper size holes for the switch studs. Now drill a 3/8 hole in the bottom of the case (and metal plate) for the mounting bolt. Check your placement on the bike but about dead center is good. Don't install the switches yet. There will be some ridges inside the box. You will need to grind or file them down so the switch retaining nuts will seat flat. Again, check your postion on the bike and decide where you want the wires to exit the box. Drill a hole and install a rubber grommet. It needs to be large enough to slip the wiring loom casing though it. Ok, slip the 10mm bolt through the hole from the inside before you install the switches. Check for clearence at the terminal studs to prevent shorting them on the bolt head. Slip a washer over the bolt, then the 1" spacer and another washer. Ok, now where to mount it? Look at the clutch master cylinder and see where the mute button in bolted on. The Royales should all have that, the standards may not. Which ever model you have there will be a blind 10mm hole in the body of the master. Remove the bolt and install the assembly with the new bolt there. Use washers to adjust the height so it clears the mute control. It will be above the master clyinder cover so you can open that to added fluid without removing the new panel. Adjust the position to your liking an tighten the bolts. I'm using star lock washers to hold it in place. Now you can install the switches and wiring. Before replacing the plastic cover make sure you have room for the inner lip to clear the nuts on the switches. I had to do a little grinding. A little sealant around the cover and were the wires drop out should keep the inside dry. I drilled a very small weep hole in the lowest corner of mine. So that is pretty much it. Don't look to bad, in a good location for the left hand, it don't interfer with anything else and should hold up real well. Paint or finish it to your needs. I had most the stuff laying around so cost was under $12.00 for what I had to pick up. If you had to buy it all maybe under $30.00. Maybe this will solve some problems for a few folks. Just a DIY day around here. Good luck. (An added note: I bought another project box and took the metal plate from it and polished it to a high gloss to go on the top of my finished panel. Looked real nice. Rode for about half and hour and went home and painted it flat black. Worse than a chrome gas cap.) Mike
