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Found this on the web. Thought it might be of some interest. 10 Facts about AGM Batteries 1. AGM batteries were originally developed for the military and so are very robust and can take much more abuse than wet-cell or standard deep-cycle gel batteries. As the electrolyte is contained within the glass mats, there is nothing to leak or spill and they are relatively free from freezing damage. 2. As with other sealed batteries there is little to no maintenance with AGMs. Even more of an advantage is that most of them are 'recombinant'. What this means is that the oxygen and hydrogen combine inside the battery during charging cycles to form water - hence very little water loss and hydrogen emission. These batteries are therefore less hazardous than their counterparts. 3. AGM batteries can be stored in otherwise prohibited areas because of their advantages of no leakage and no fumes. Another advantage of this property is that they can be stored on end or on their sides if need be without damage. 4. The battery construction places the electrolyte in closer proximity to the active plate material. This enhances the efficiency of both discharge and charge cycles. Because of this, and because the internal resistance of the battery is very low they generally charge at a faster rate and to a higher capacity than non-AGM batteries. They can also take heavy discharge rates without damage and can take the occasional discharge below the recommended 50% of capacity rule. 5. AGMs have a very low discharge rate when stored for extended periods, and even if left to totally discharge in storage they can be quickly recharged back to over 95% of their capacity providing they have not been left too long in a discharged state. The advantage is, no flat battery after storing for extended periods (within reason of course). 6. Under normal operating conditions, a good service life of up to 5 years can be attained. With quality care and handling, managed discharge and charge even longer lifetimes are common. Some reports quote up to 10 years. 7. AGM batteries are quite a bit more expensive that conventional wet-cell and standard deep cycle. But if you measure this cost against their robustness, longer life expectancy and better performance, they still present as the best value for money over the longer term. 8. A 'normal' car alternator will only charge a wet-cell type battery to around 70-80% of its capacity. Because of its higher charging rates an AGM battery will just about fully charge and at a faster rate from the same type of alternator. 9. AGM batteries are capable of charging rates up to 75% of their rated ampere hour capacity. In some cases this can lead to damaged alternators or standard auto chargers that may be susceptible to the excessive heat generated when trying to deliver maximum amps. The good point though is that AGMs will charge at lesser rates and be quite happy doing that. But, if you are going to spend money on a quality battery then you should really be looking at buying a quality three-stage charger. 10. AGM batteries can handle a multitude of roles. They can be used as starting batteries, in deep cycle applications, or as standby batteries for critical powered systems. These reasons make them ideal for camping applications. They can also be connected in series or parallel banks providing for various terminal voltages and ampere capacities. Example: two AGMs can be wired in parallel in a pop-up camper. Charged via a three stage 'Smart' charger and never have an issue with them.
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The CLASS system on my bike is acting up. I noticed it this summer but decided to wait until the winter months to tear in to it. The time has come. I thought that it just wasn't holding air due to a broken line but tonight I found that I don't have a broken air line. Here is what is happening When I turn the key to accessory, the discharge valve opens and all of the air is let out of the system. Leaving the system in the AUTO mode, I can pump up the front. When the desired pressure is reached, I get a small puff of air out of the discharge valve and everything is fine. According to the service manual this is normal. When I pump up the rear, the desired pressure is reached and then the discharge valve opens and lets all of the air out. I can immediately pump it back up but as soon as it hits the correct pressure, the discharge valve opens and all of the air escapes. Tonight I learned that the manual mode works fine. I can add or release air as needed. I also noticed tonight that I was getting a random E4 code that could be cleared by cycling the power. I never got this code during the summer. Even though the correct pressure is registering on the display, does this sound like a defective pressure sensing unit? -
can anybody tell me what the class system discharge valve looks like? I can see the compressor and all but have NO idea what the discharge valve remotely looks like. My system keeps throwing an E1, it threw E4 before then I soldered it, it worked for about 5 minutes now its throwing E1.. thanksalot zac
