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Showing results for tags 'cutting'.
Found 23 results
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Hoping someone can help. I have a 98 RSTC with 4 into 4 pipes. I thought the dremel trick (where you cut the pipe a few inches into the back pipe) would work but the diameter of the the 4 into 4 must be smaller than the 4 into 2 because the dremel cutting disc is too large! What other mode can I do? I only want a moderate noise increase. It it would be good if someone could also recommend suitable aftermarket pipes for 4 into 4. -
Bazooka MC-YAM-AMK Amplifier Kit is available from crutchfield and i wonder if anyone here has used this product? i like the idea that it will plug into the system without cutting any wires, however it is a bit $$$$$ pricey$$$ and looking for any info or product reviews thanx mike.
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was on my first night ride. going down the highway thought it was cutting out but wasant sure still had plenty of power. then was town driving stopped at the busiest intersection would not rev up then all power went dead. pushed it to the side nothing. pushed into a church parking lot pulled cover off. reached down to left side of battery. lights came back on. and would start. rode one block same thing. so every time it would start cutting out would reach under left handle bar wiggle wire and it would straighten out made it home doing this. any ideas. not the fuse box or battery cables. wire to computer above the area. :think: why why
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Cutting side covers
johnnydemonic posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
Hello all, new guy here with an 83 xvz12 I have had for about 15 years now. Great site, wealth of information here. Quick question, I am planning a styling change, based on a couple of bikes I have seen here which I call "semi-bobbed", basically I want to expose the engine more (it's a great looking engine, why keep it covered?) and remove the trunk, etc... Make it look a little more like a fairinged cruiser than a full dress tourer. My question is: Before I cut the side covers down, is there anything I should consider, best method for cutting, tips, tricks, etc? Thank you, Johnny. -
Anyone know how I would cut the long tail part the bead seat.
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This time I hooked up my satellite radio and it worked ok but it kept cutting in and out don't know why.
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Whats going on with Grass? My scoot gasoline budget is being sucked down the carb of the lawn mower. This crazy weather hot with rain everyday? I think the grass growing is setting off the motion dectectors in the yard.New Son-N-Law had a grip on it but since he took that job cutting and grooming a golf course the last thing on his mind is my front yard when he gets home.Five more gallon please $$$$.
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In need of a shorter windshield here. Was wondering if anyone has tried the Bagger shield or would i be better off just cutting down my old one. Any infor mation would be helpful. Thanhks Joe
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Here are 2 "mock-up" drawings I did of 4 bikers at an intersection making a left turn. Bike #1 leads out ahead of bike #2 which is then followed by bike #3, etc.... (they aren't side-by-side) Intersection2 shows bike #2 cutting to the inside of the turn. Intersection3 shows bike #2 swinging wide. I feel that the "Intersection3" (swinging wide) example is the correct method because there is little chance of cutting off the path of bike #3 whereas in the first example, bike #3 gets cut off and can be an issue if they are too close to bike #2. Did I explain that clear enuf ? LOL What do ya'll say..?? Intersection2 [ATTACH]61747[/ATTACH] Intersection3 [ATTACH]61748[/ATTACH]
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I just purchased a 2005 RTSD with a little over 7,000 miles for $6,000 which I am hoping was a decent deal. But any ways I test drove it and it never showed the first sign of a problem. But on my way home it started cutting out when accelerating and popping on deceleration. Well at the end of my 200 mile trip home the bike was cutting out pretty bad pretty much through about 70% of the rev band and popping any time I stared to decelerate. I know the bike has been siting for about 7-8 weeks and not sure if that would have anything to do with it or at least to that extent. (Oh, and the bike has a pair of BUB's on it if that may be contibuting to the problem). My last bike was fuel inj. so I never had any of these problems. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks: Tim -
Has anyone tried cutting the bottom of an RSV windshield and then slotting and drilling new mounting holes? I like this Idea since I think I would have problems getting such a smooth curve cutting the top portion and it would bother me every time I looked at it. Seems possible - potential issues. Limits fine tuning of height after the first cut so I had better get the height I want first time. I'm thinking 3" shorter for me but will check sight line over top with some scotch tape and inch marks. Bottom area of windshield will be slightly wider but seems there is enough clearance in the slot it fits into to accept the wider width. Anything else? -
Is the Bead Seat cuttable. If so is there a special way so not to unravel it.
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Tools Explained DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat metal bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings your beer across the room, denting the freshly-painted project which you had carefully set in the corner where nothing could get to it. WIRE WHEEL: Cleans paint off bolts and then throws them somewhere under the workbench with the speed of light . Also removes fingerprints and hard-earned calluses from fingers in about the time it takes you to say, 'Oh ****!' SKILL SAW: A portable cutting tool used to make studs too short. PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads. Sometimes used in the creation of blood-blisters. BELT SANDER: An electric sanding tool commonly used to convert minor touch-up jobs into major refinishing jobs. HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board principle... It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motion, and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your future becomes. VISE-GRIPS: Generally used after pliers to completely round off bolt heads. If nothing else is available, they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of your hand. OXYACETYLENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable objects in your shop on fire. Also handy for igniting the grease inside the wheel hub out of which you want to remove a bearing race. TABLE SAW: A large stationary power tool commonly used to launch wood projectiles for testing wall integrity. HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering an automobile to the ground after you have installed your new brake shoes , trapping the jack handle firmly under the bumper. BAND SAW: A large stationary power saw primarily used by most shops to cut good aluminum sheet into smaller pieces that more easily fit into the trash can after you cut on the inside of the line instead of the outside edge. TWO-TON ENGINE HOIST: A tool for testing the maximum tensile strength of everything you forgot to disconnect. PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the vacuum seals under lids or for opening old-style paper-and-tin oil cans and splashing oil on your shirt; but can also be used, as the name implies, to strip out Phillips screw heads. STRAIGHT SCREWDRIVER: A tool for opening paint cans. Sometimes used to convert common slotted screws into non-removable screws and butchering your palms. PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracket you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part. HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to make hoses too short. HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is used as a kind of divining rod to locate the most expensive parts adjacent the object we are trying to hit. UTILITY KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboard cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on contents such as seats, vinyl records, liquids in plastic bottles, collector magazines, refund checks, and rubber or plastic parts. Especially useful for slicing work clothes, but only while in use. SON-OF-A-B*^%H TOOL: (A personal favorite!) Any handy tool that you grab and throw across the garage while yelling 'Son of a B*^%H!' at the top of your lungs. It is also, most often, the next tool that you will need.
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Ok, I finally got around to replacing my original wind screen on my '84 with a new one from Cee Bailey. Got one 2" shorter than stock for a better line of sight over the screen. I've been using Plexus all the time to fight the swirls in the old one but after riding several of my friends bikes I really liked NOT seeing anything in front of me. I like clear. Now I have clear. Ok, so what I'm up to is this. I'm cutting the old screen down, a lot, to be not much more that 6" to 8" higher than the top of the fairing. Real short for those really hot days on summer. Get a lil wind in the face kind of thing. I want to try to apply the window tint film on the inside. I've done several cars and vans with the kits so I'm pretty handy with the stuff. And cutting it that short I get rid of the compound curve so that should make it pretty easy. The question is......anybody know if there might be any weird reaction with the screen and the adhesive on the film? I've read the posts on the spray tints but want to try the film to make sure I keep an even appearance. My only concern with the film is keeping the edges bonded to the surface but that can be covered with some flexible trim along the top edge. Thanks for any imput. Mike
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My radio is cutting out badly but I cant find anything wrong any suggestions?
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My computer display is cutting out! Totally blank! After I had the pins re-soldered it has reset itself while riding a couple of times, but now I seem to have moved beyond that. It did come back on briefly after hitting a bump a couple of times but won't stay on which would seem to indicate a loose connection somewhere. 1. does the display have a separate power supply allowing everything to work without it showing? 2. should the bike run/start if the CPM quits/dies? 3. where would I start trying to figure this out? Thanks in advance!
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If any of you guys have an old busted up windshield for an RSTD - I need just the quick release mounts. I want to install my fairing for quick release and this would be a great place to start. I will still have some cutting and welding to do - but this would save me a lot of work. NO LONGER NEEDED Thanks, Shep I will also post this in the Classifieds
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Brad, I need to cut down the w/s on my VStar, but I am a little reluctant:scratchchin:to do it myself, LA told me how to do it but I just cant bring myself to do it, Im hoping that you will be a Freebirds for m/d and you might find time to do it for me..........I know your experienced with cutting perfectly good windshields up:thumbsup:, so hoping I can get you to do it for me................
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I have a couple questions. I have a 07 RSV. Just got my 2 sets of J&M Elite 584 Series headsets. Is there anyone in (preferably) Edmonton that can install these in full face Shoei helmets. Anyone hear that knows how to install them professionally knows that there is some cutting to do. I am not comfortable in doing it. There is some pretty stiff plastic in the ear area. I am hoping that there is someone hear that has done this a few times and has gotten over being uncomfortable doing the install. Thanks, Greg
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My bad - I just found Newman's post - sorry for the repeat.... I have an appointment on Thursday at a local plastics shop to get my shield cut down. I have to do it - I can't stand looking through it in the rain or when there are lots of bugs on the shield. I am a little nervous about how far to cut it down - I have to go low enough to look over it so probably about 4 inches from the top. My fear is that may be too much and then I would be disappointed. I don't want to end up looking at the edge though, got to look over it. I am curious if you've done this and how it went. How much did you cut off and how did it affect the air flow? Do you get more buffeting, how about your passenger? Do you regret cutting it. I read some of the threads about the Clearview's as a replacement and may go that way but not yet... What about the shape? Did you end up with the same shape as stock or did you flatten the curve a bit? I'd love to hear your stories - I found an article online about how to do it myself but power tools and I are a bad mix, usually resulting in a poor finished product and multiple sutures for me ;-) Andrew
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Where do you all prefer the height of the windshield on a first gen to be? As I sit now, the top of mine is about middle of forehead so looking over is a real stretch and I am thinking of cutting it down a bit but how is the airflow over the VR? I've had more vertical shields on crusiers but with the VR's more aerodynamic fairing, I am wondering how the flow of air is over it.
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I had put this on the site before it crashed. An inexpensive way to add some chrome to your bike. Takes a little practice at cutting but works good.
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CUTTING DOWN A WINDSHIELD Cutting lexan is easy if you have patience and a Sabre saw or a Dremel You will also need: 1. Duct tape 2. A fine tooth blade for the Sabre saw or a Dremel with a cutting wheel 3. Big sheet of poster board 4. Fine tipped marker 5. Bastard file 6. Various grades of emery cloth and wet and dry sand paper First, decide how much lower you want the windshield. Cover the windshield with the big piece of poster board, and mark carefully where the lower point of the windshield is. There should be some mounting points, or a bar that goes all the way across the windshield at about handle bar height. Tape the poster board to the windshield or get a friend to hold the poster board while you trace the outline of the windshield, paying close attention to the top curvature. Spread this paper on a level surface, and cut out the pattern you now have of your full size windshield. If you need the windshield lowered 1", take it off the BOTTOM of your pattern or fold the pattern up 1"!! Very important--you are not cutting the windshield as the bottom, but rather you are "lowering" curvature of the windshield so that now your pattern will show the curvature 1" lower. Take the windshield off the bike, lay it down carefully on a blanket or something where the windshield won't get scratched. Put your new shorter pattern on the windshield. Eyeball where the new top will be, and put a layer of duck tape in the rough area of where you will be cutting so the windshield won't crack while cutting. Now tape the pattern down correctly, and trace your new top curve onto the duck tape. I put the windshield on my lap, main curve upward. BE CAREFUL WHILE CUTTING. Start your Sabre saw on one edge, and SLOWLY, work up the line you've traced onto the duck tape (or Dremel if you choose to use that tool instead). Soon you'll have the excess 1" (or whatever) on the floor. Now with the bastard file smooth out the cut you just made. Use your artistic sense to get this part done. Take off the duck tape, and using the file, start "rounding" or beveling the edge. BE CAREFUL!! The file slips, you get a scratch, it's there forever. When you get it roughed in, use a block with emery cloth around it to do the fine work. Finish off with fine emery paper, wet, and eventually you will have a factory edge. Total time s about 2-4 hours, depends mainly how picky you are about making the edges just so. Submitted by Camo
