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I'm going over to meet with my insurance agent on Wednesday to talk about my bike coverage and adding the new trailer to my policy. I have no issue with my current policy, as I have never made any kind of claim on my bikes or cars, but want to be clear on the terms he keeps bringing up in our e-mail exchanges. The term is "cash value" which I understend, if I'm correct is what it would cost to replace the vehicle or trailer at the time of loss based on KBB or other info they use. I know some of the headaches many have gone through concerning the value, based on what the bike/trailer was worth to them, compared to the insurers opinion based on their data. I try to keep a current file of bikes similiar to mine that were sold to document the prices on the current market in case I ever suffer a loss. Along with that prices of the parts and farkels I have added over the years, which adds up. I can't whine about the cost of my bike policy as it's only $269.00 a year for full coverage. I'm considering dropping my deductable to $100.00 and that would only raise me to $290.00 per year for full bike coverage, Deductable of $100.00 per vehicle as the deductable would apply to both the bike and trailer seperatley. At the current deducable the trailer (paid $250.00) would about be a wash. Any advice on how to look at this? Mike
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Just a thought but with so many sightings of ventures lately an idea came to me this morning. Would it be possible to design/produce decal(s) for our Organization that could be placed in designated locations on the front fairing and rear trunk that would both advertize to others and identify a current Venture rider? maybe include our CB channel? Under this one could always place their Username? Or has someone already thought of this?
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Was wondering has anyone attempted to make a windshiled out of the same thickness lexan? I have thought about like a Cee Baileys shorter windshield, but I have a sheet of lexan (I think the same thickness as current windscreen) and was wondering if anyone has made thier own. I saw a couple posts somewhere about cutting down the current OEM windscreen.
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I have a stock Clarion CD changer free to anyone who needs one. I DO NOT HAVE THE CABLE, so you must either find one or use your current. First one gets it just pay the shipping......:whistling: John
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Well, fork seals... non issue... those will be fixed in time... just need to make sure I got oil with me. But... heres current... pressing issue, current today. Bike idles fine. she'll idle 900-1000K ok. After getting warmed up tho, really well... the idle likes to stick high, 2K area. Today she stuck at 2500, I turn the engine off, turn the engine back on, she starts up and idles around 1, 1.2K What gives? Also happen to get crappier MPG now -.-' 29-31... before it was 35 average right up until we had to garage her this year. We've replaced the caps. I got cracked intake manifolds tho... I can probably clean the K&N AF. Could it be the Ignitech TCI?
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Does anyone have any experience using the UCLEAR HBC100 Bluetooth helmet communicator? It's microphone is built into the speakers. It says it's military specs and that the wind/traffic/engine noise is eleminated. My current SCALA Team Set is getting a bit old and I'm thinking of changing our headsets out. www.uclear-digital.com/
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I am honored to announce that we have added a new moderator to our VentureRider forum. Please join me in congratulating MarCarl to our fine team of current moderators. I am honored that Carl has accepted this sometimes thankless position. I am confident that he will do a great job.
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Hi all, I'm posting this question because I haven't been able to find a previous discussion on the matter, but can't believe there hasent been one. So redirect if such a discussion exists. I'm trying to find out, outside of color changes, what changes if any have occured for the Royal Venture from 1999 to the current 2012. I understand there was a seat change in 2001. Is there a tech bulletin that describes all the minor changes throught those years? Thanks!
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I'm going to hold all of my current prices for my items I make for another full season here. Current prices have been in effect for two years now but I know that by years end I'm going to have to raise them due to higher shipping and material costs. Anyhow everyone can expect my items holding at the current level till then when I'll reevaluate after the new year starts. Larry
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I picked up a spare rear rim to try a CT. Went searching today for a tire and it seems that the Kumhos have all dried up. What's the current "hot topic" tire that's available these days? About all I have seen would be the BFG in the right size. TIA, Iz
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Messed something up on Outlook and unsure how to fix. usually email is: left-folders,,middle-sender/subject,,right-preview. now: left-folders,,middle-sender/subject,,under middle-preview How do I fix this back? Don't like this current format.
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OK..someone did this for me 2 years ago, but I forgot who it was. So I am looking for someone else that can do it. Someone with the expertise, know how and TIME to do it. Obviously, I am willing to pay (paypal) for both the service and the knowledge here. Measuring from the bolt on point (but where the solid part of the kickstand starts), the NORMAL OEM kickstand is 12" to the beginning of the foot of the kickstand. My current "modified" kickstand is 11.5". I am wanting my kickstand to be 11.0" now. There is still not enough "LEAN" to the bike...especially on uneven surfaces. Whoever did my current modified stand, did a great job. Wally
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I have finished going through all of the posts for the generation 2 Venture. I have a 2008 model. From my readings and to keep from reopening some threads that have been unused for a while, here are my questions: 1. Reference to tires. On my previous bike, 2008 Kawasaki Vulcan 900 classic LT, it came with Dunlop tires. The wear rate on them sucked. I was only getting about 8000 miles or so out of a set. Switched to metzlers ME 880 and was well into my second year of riding on the same tires before I traded it for my current bike. Having read the threads here, I see some have had issues with the Metzlers. I did not on previous bike and current bike has a set of metzler's ME 880's on it. My question. Is there any issues with the tires? I run them on 40 lbs air in the front....42 in the rear. 2. I know I have screwed up my stereo system. The head unit works, but I have no sound. All fuses are fine. My question. Has anyone dealt with Pinwall Cycle Parts? The have a used stereo I can get to replace my current unit. I am aware that my current system is under warranty. However, don't feel like waiting through a long process for them to get around to replacing the unit. My only concern is their no exchange policy. 3. Another audio question. What year's of the bike use the same audio system? From looking at Pinwall's selection, they all basically seem to be the same size, ect....is there any difference between say a 1999 model and 2008 model stereo? That's all for now. Thanks!
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This will be the new thread where we will handle the communications for the reg/rec group buy. Dave with Indian Motorcycle is out of the office till Monday, so I expect to hear from him then on the status. Here is the current list I have and the units requested, please reply if you are not on here. Dan
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A lot of your memberships are coming due during this month and next. I'm getting quite a few emails from people asking me when their dues are due. If you go to the UserCP and then scroll down and click on "subscriptions", it will show when your current membership expires. You should receive an automated email a few days before your memberships are up for renewal. You may renew anytime you wish though. If you renew early, you will NOT lose any months. A year is just added to your current expiration date.
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Have to replace the front speaker grill. Looking at the parts list online, besides just a nut, washer & bolt to attach the speakers, they also show a collar, a rubber grommet. My current install doesn't have those. Anyone know why they're needed, and if so do you need them on all 4 bolts? file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/Jerry/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot-2.png
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I currently have 2009 WW Autoroute DEM Basemap NR 3.00 Software version 4.00 GPS 2.90 DSP 2.40 Text 4.00 Voice 2.60 I cannot find anything newer. Garming says all but maps are current. I find it hard to believe that 2009 stuff is current but hey you never know. Anyone have any additional knowledge of current software or firmware for this unit?? Also lifetime maps seems like a good deal at 90 bucks. Thoughts??
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(MUNICH, GERMANY) Norbert Reithofer, CEO of Bayerische Motoren Werke AG, announced today that Harley-Davidson Motor Company has accepted a friendly merger agreement by BMW and will combine their motorcycle manufacturing facilities. Mr. Keith E Wandell, CEO of Harley-Davidson, will become president of the the worldwide motorcycle division, which will include the current BMW Motorrad division, Harley-Davidson, and Husqvarna. "We have long felt the need to diversify our motorcycle production by adding models more attuned to the cruiser market," Herr Reithofer said. "With our current BMW line, our Husqvarna line, and now the new Harley-Davidson line, we will be able to penetrate all parts of the worldwide motorcycle market." Mr. Wandell stated that the move, which has taken the motorcycling world by surprise, was accepted by Harley-Davidson as a way to strengthen its capital base, which has never recovered from the 2008 financial meltdown. "We also are looking for ways to streamline our operations by combining research and development, design, and marketing components of our motorcycle lines." The two men showed off a prototype of the kind of combined work the new combined companies will be capable of by announcing the BMW H1600R, which features a Harley motor in the body of the current K1600GT, suitably modified, with a distinctive orange and blue paint scheme to combine the colors of the two companies. There was also a clay mockup of a version of the current RoadKing Classic with the iconic BMW boxer motor, which is promised for fall introduction. FOR RELEASE AFTER MARCH 31, 2011
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This information will seem like old hat to those of us who have been around these bikes a while, but what I will explain below is that knowing and understanding something it is NOT the same as grokking it! This may be a little long, but I'll do my best to keep it concise. If you have noticed voltage fluctuations on your bike, this thread's for you. The problem: For at least the last 20,000 miles I have had intermittent periods of low voltage on my 05, but only when running extra load like passing lamps. Occasionally the voltage while riding would drop down below 12, and at idle even below 11. But if I turned off the driving lamps it would jump all the way back to 13.8 - 14. I also noticed that when the voltage was low, often just a sudden increase in load such as a quick touch of the air horn or just flashing the high beams would cause the voltage readings to go back to normal. I have NOT had any problem with dead battery. Although my bike is close to 100,000 miles and has the original six year old battery in it, I also noticed this identical problem on the 07 I had for a few months. This was a clue that I ignored. Analysis: These are absolute classic symptoms for bad wire connections or pin contacts in plugs. Since the voltage was only low when the load was high, it indicated that excess current was being sucked from the battery instead of being supplied by the bike's charging system. The fact that it was not always low under those conditions proved that the charging system did have the full capacity, but it was not always being delivered to the battery. On the Royal Stars, the plug connecting the regulator/rectifier is a know problem with the pins for the main 12V and ground wires often overheating and melting the plug. The excess heat that melts the plug is caused by poor pin contact that works like a resistor. Long ago I pulled this plug and it looked perfect. I also pulled the plug for the three stator wires, and all looked good there too. Over the past year or two I have periodically checked just about all plugs and wires, including grounds and battery cables without finding any problems. This problem can also be caused by an old or defective battery that just sucks up too much charging current, so this knowledge coupled with the fact that I still have the original six year old battery in the bike made me assume that had to be the cause. I never did see an excess charge current flowing into the battery on the ammeter, but just assumed that was because the only ammeters that are available these days have a + - 60A swing, and that is just too much to accurately see current flow on a 30A max motorcycle. I was just waiting for the bike to show some slow cranking to buy a new battery and prove the point. The problem has been getting noticeably worse in the past few months. Still not having charging problems, but probably because I have been mostly leaving the driving and passing lights off. If I did not have full gauges and monitor them regularly, I probably would never even have a hint that there was a problem at all. If the battery had died two years ago, I would have just assumed it was normal old age for a motorcycle battery. Surprise easy fix: Well today I decided to pull the regulator/rectifier one more time to check that plug. It still looked perfect. Although this circuit seems to be designed on the absolute minimum of what is needed for the 30A current, the plug does have a very good rubber seal in it that keeps out the crud if the plug is properly seated, and even after close to 100,000 miles, mine still looked like new. But still, I took the time to plug/un-plug the thing about 10 times to scrape the pins good, then I took a pair of needle nose pliers to slightly tweak the pins for the big red and black wires - the idea here was to make them press harder on the fittings in the plug and guarantee good contact. Well guess what? When I took it out for several hours, even with fairly low battery voltage to begin with from sitting for several weeks, the system voltage NEVER DROPPED EVEN ONE TIME! This was an obvious fix that I should have done a couple of years ago, but the fact that my plug never showed any signs of heat problems fooled me into believing there must not be any problem with the pin contact there. WRONG. The moral here is that even when things look right, they may not be. Never hurts to go the extra distance to clean/re-seat/tighten something that you suspected in the first place. It sure won't make things worse, and it just might fix it! Goose
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Hi, What do we know about the amount of power available to power accessories on a stock '84 non Royale? All otherwise being well, how much current can I draw with add on accessories without risking a no start situation at the next stop? Thanks, Brian H.
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When it comes time to put in a new battery in my MKI, I was thinking of going with a dry cell. I was looking on Summit just out of curiosity. They have several that will fit and put out anywhere from 210-425CCA's or more. That got me to wondering how many CCA's the OEM type battery put out. I still had the old battery down in the basement that hasn't been recycled yet and it only says 20Amps. Then of course I had to ask myself, what's the difference between Amps and Cold Cranking Amps? Nothing from what I can tell. Except of course for the whole CA's at 32* and CCA's at 0* thing of course. Then there's the extra 200-400 or so CCA's. Some better battery cables would also help to better handle the extra lead as well as help the available power in the current battery get to where it's needed. But is all that extra current to much or even necessary? I sometimes ride even if it dips into the high 30's to low 40's. The extra current would be nice. It would also be nice for those hot engine starts. Which better cables would also help. How much is to much???
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Is there such a thing, that puts lights for the brakes/marker in the top box (travel box) ala Goldwing? Also is there a current seat-nut link, I found one in threads that was dead. Thanks
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A friend is heading to the west coast from Ohio and was told that route 40 thru New Mexico and Arizona is heavily grooved from semi's. Anybody in that area have current info ? Thanks
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I'm in the process of installing LED's on my new to me sidecar and am considering tying them as well as all the bike's running lights (LED) into the tail/brake light cirquit after converting those to LED's. I'm installing two (2) 56 LED tail/brake lights, an 8 LED marker light and three light bars with a total of 48 LED's. And finally two 20 LED fog lamps. The bike would get the 19 LED tail light. Assuming that I am not going to exceed the current draw from the current two 1157 tail lights, my concern is that the wire supplying the tail light may not be big enough to pull that trick off any way. Am I correct that as long as I don't exceed my current amps I should be OK?? Hope I stated that accurately! Thanks