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Showing results for tags 'crack'.
Found 24 results
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The vacuum hose at the actuator has a crack in it allowing it to leak and drop the cruise off. Is there a way to get to the hose and cut it off or replace it without removing the fairing? I was able to get one finger on the hose and feel the crack but couldn't see how to get to it.
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Anyone warranty their avons? Tires bought last year, Venom X tires, premature cracking on both tires. Rear has one crack at the tread that looks deep and appears to be leaking air slowly.
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I just found this trunk crack on my 91 VR. It is hard to see. It looks like a stress crack from age and hardening of the plastic, for there is nothing around it that indicates it got hit. And I have not loaded it much at all. I may have purchased it that way, only at that time I may have missed it. The crack does definately stop my fingernail from going over the crack. I dont know what those white spots are for they are not on the turnk. The paint on the trunk looks like the day it came off the show room floor The crack is also felt on the inside. Also the crack starts right dead center on one of the screws that hold the trim on. My options are 1) Just ignore it and hope the crack does not travel father 2) Take it to a body shop for an estimate 3) Buy a used trunk and have it professionally painted to match. 4) Your suggestions
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pilot jets and sync'ing ?
59ndroy posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
I've read lots of different threads about turning pilot jet screws from 1 3/4 turns out all the way to 3 turns. So, how can you tell what "your happy number" of turns out is? What is the deciding factor? Will this effect gas mileage or is it something else? Part 2 of this thread: I'm trying to get the mileage up out of the 31 range. I've changed plugs, Seafoamed 7 tankfuls, tried sync'ing 3 times and have finally got her to idle and run decent. But it's still touchy with the choke in the cold mornings. The other question is when sync'ing, at what rpm should it be? Idling or 2000 rpms? And when I think the sync is complete, (I do crack throttle during adjustments) my levels are constantly changing after that when I crack the throttle and let it settle back to idle. I mean everything gets wacky again. Never a consistant reading on any cylinders. '86 Royale, 40,000 miles and homemade sync tool, board with tubing & trans fluid, 143 assorted bugs on windshield - 97.6% of those smashed flat allowing minimal wind resistance @60 mph. -
Anyone have a surefire way to repair a hairline crack in a 28mm carb??Bought this 99RS and discovered a hairline crack at the base of the #3 carb where it goes into the intake.Sucking air and backfiring.
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I noticed some old threads about this problem and although one post said checking the wires under the seat fixed the problem, is there any other issues anyone has come across? although I know one day I will need to crack the fairing, I am trying to put that off if I can, otherwise I will start under the seat. ANy other advic? Thanks
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Ok well when I went to do some things to my bike I found some questionable wiring. I have now split the fairing, removed a TON of PO added unused wire and am cleaning things up. Is there anything else I want to pay special atention to or change while I have things apart? I am also considering replacing the right side of the fairing as when I got it apart I found most tabs broken off, a crack on the bottom, another crack that looks to have been super glued together. I am also considering adding some stuff that this bike does not have, like a cruise control. Thank You all for the info, Shaun -
I got the collector off, cut it open and removed a bunch of loose baffling, also noticed that the left side exit pipe had a crack where it is welded to the collector body, the crack was about 3/4 of the way around. I took it to a local welder, he fixed the crack and welded a new stainless steel plate over the opening, and also rewelded all of the tacks that hold on the chrome covers. $30, not too bad! Also decided to remove the airbox, clean the oil out of it, and remove the breather tubes. I used a rubber tube with a 90 degree bend off of the "twinkie" so the hose exits to the side with a filter on it. I also drained the oil down to half way in the sightglass, that should help. I just got it back together, and it runs smoother than before, and sounds great, a deeper sound, and no rattling or leaking sounds. I'm really surprised that these changes would make such a difference to the way the bike runs, it's a lot smoother. Is it possible that removing the breather tubes and fixing the exhaust leaks could make it run better? Removing the collector was not a hard job, I only broke 1 clamp bolt, the rest were ok. If your thinking about tackling this job, get to it. Next project, installing the Road King pipes! I can't wait to see what they look and sound like. Briley. -
factory paint on the ventures or is it better to start all over and paint the whole bike after doing crack repairs on the fairing?
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What started out as a quick fix and a long summer of riding has turned into your standard "make it look real pretty" job. Thanks Earl for the mod spacers for the carbs. I will need to look into some threads to get an idea how to deal with the adjustable needles. Here are a few pics to show the progress. At present, I am doing some modifications since she is taken apart. Moved the TCI box, will get at carbs soon, changed oil, strengthened the plastic because some day it will crack there! Lube what I can lube and generally looking at every bolt. I think, well the little lady thinks" I should go with a single color close to the original brown with the burgundy tint. I will probubly add some more metal flakes to it.
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I have a Blackberry Bold and I bought a mount from "the Mountguys" on the web. It was a fairly inexpensive way to mount the BB to listen to my music. However, after about 30 days I noticed a crack in the back of the mount and within another month the crack was all the way across the mount and it broke in half. I contacted the Mount Guys and they denied ever having a problem with them but, replaced the head (holder part) anyway. Well another 45 days later and I have a large crack across the back of my newest holder. I contacted the Mountguys and they informed me that they still have had no issues from anyone else on this mount and would not be replacing it again in spite of the fact that both item failed in exactly the same place and manner. Those of you who know me know that my 99 is well kept and in fact, still looks almost new and I take good care of it so the part was not abused. I am now going to find another supplier for some type of mount to hold my BB as, I have already run the cable back into the fairing and cleaned up the look etc. I won't buy again from this provider. Anyone have suggestions for a BB mount on the handlebars? boo www.mountguys.com :sign **** happens:
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I have a crack in the lower fairing; radiating out from the main (upper) bolt that secures it. Is the best repair something like JB Weld or some sort of ABS welder product - possibly with an ABS patch to prevent it from propagating? If anyone has something that has worked for them, I would appreciate the information. Thanks Ross
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Well my as-is project continues, what started out as a simple dragging starter repair has now turned into a water pump overhaul as I found oil in the water. I have a couple questions that I couldn't find answers to in the Tech. talk. How much slack is there supposed to be in the plastic gear that runs the pump, where mine sits on the pin there is noticable slack, is that normal? How many other places are there where oil can get into the water besides the head gaskets and which are the most likely? My trike has 44,800 miles on it. Also I did find a crack in the water seal, hard to believe oil can get into the water through that hair line crack. As usual any help is appreciated.
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Noticed that carb boot for #1 cylinder is wet and seems to bubble from under the band. Tried to tighten it but it seems as tight as it gets. Is this an indication of a crack in the boot?
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Just got a 1st gen venture 1988 with good dunlops 491s and hard air in shocks and tracks good in cornners and straight yet hit a small road crack and for a second feel like skating on ice.....where should I look? I have a 1989 also and on same roads rock steady. -
Ok, Having a problem with the bike. Seems to be Carbs. Letting it run out at 3/4 throttle it will go to red line just fine. But anytime I am above, say 4k, and crack the throttle to wide open the bike begins to miss over 5k. And I think I can smell fuel. Already did the seafoam bath twice. Any ideas.
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is there a certain time or a certain mileage when the frame on the 83 will crack, and will i have to remove the engine to fix it and do i want to? should i sell and get a 86 or newer?:sign67:what will i feel when this happens?, the crack i mean
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Oil Filter Question
Schlepporello posted a topic in Venture and Venture Royale Tech Talk ('83 - '93)
OK, so when I bought my brake pads, I figured I'd see what a new oil filter would cost. Then not thinking the price was too outrageous, I bought one. My local thievery shop sold me a #1J7-13441-10 filter. Then later, while looking through the parts catalog for my '84 VR, I noticed that the recomended filter number is #1J7-13440-91-00. So I took the filter back today to get the correct filter and was told that the old number had been replaced with this "New" number. Personally, I think the parts man behind the counter was smoking crack. In the service manual, there's supposed to be a rubber ring gasket, this "new" numbered filter has none, nor does it have a place for one. What say ye? -
Please say it ain't possible! I was out in the garage tonight, pulling my old rear wheel bearings, and I noticed a crack in the tread of my tire. Not much of one (but dang sure enough to catch my attention), just about 3" long running through a tread gap around the circumferance of the tire. So I rolled the tire around a little more and 1/3 around the tire from the crack was a ck that was every bit of 4" long and it made no difference to the tread where this crack was, and again this one was running the circumference. Seeing as to how I bought this bike used last July, I have no idea how many miles have been logged on this bike. I know that I have logged 1000 miles on this tire with no ill effects, thank God. Obviously, I've got to replace the tire before I trust it to ride again. My question is, what would have caused it in the first place? I've heard nothing but good on Dunlops and nothing but bad on Metzlers, yet my best tire right now is my Metzler on the front. My assumption is that this bike possibly sat on this tire while is was flat for an extended period, but since I have no contact information with the original owner, I have no way of knowing if this is the case. Am I too far off on m assumption? Thanks!
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I had a crack in the bottom of my trunk. Now it is a large crack with a chunk missing. I need to fix it or replace it. I was watching one on ebay but it sold for $190 plus shipping and it was the wrong color. Is there a cheaper way to get this fixed? Mine is burgundy (88 VR)
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Some way, some how my lower left Cowling has developed a crack, and now that crack has spread and the cowling is now split and worthless. So I need to replace it. Be nice if I could find a used one that would match the existing paint on my Titanium/Grey '99 RSV. So anyone know of a good place to get one? Has one to sell? Please contact me, thanks! -
Did anyone every have the windshield on their 2nd Gen start to crack on them from the bottom up.Well guess what ? Mine is starting to crack (2) at the bottom .I had the inner and outer part of the fairing at the windshield replaced because it had broken (part holding the windshield) a little while back and I think they over tighten the screws holding the windshield. I`am waiting to hear back from my Dealer now.Wish me luck Eh ?
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Greetings, I'm new to the site but a long time rider. While in Indiana I acquired a well worn 84 Gen 1 VR. Early in it's life it was obviously owned by a very consciences owner as it has some of the updates already done (i.e. zerk fittings in the rear linkage, etc). It had obviously fallen on both sides several times over it's live and had multiple cracks in the plastic. I had read several years ago of people using ABS cement to repair the cracks so I figured I'd give it try. To my surprise it works REALLY well! Just spread the crack, dab a little of the cement in the crack and hold the crack together till it dries. You an also use this stuff to create new mounting tabs if they get broken. If any one is interested I'll post pictures later. Hope this helps someone... Bill
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I had posted up a responce on a thread in the watering hole about stopping a crack in your windshield. As far as stopping the crack, you need to get a very tiny drill bit and locate the end of the crack. Take the drill and drill a small hole through the exact point at where the crack ends. In the service we did this to aircraft (called stopdrilling) It relieves the pressure on the crack and stops it from traveling more.
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